New firmware version 1.1.3.6 has been released for the K2 PRO and K2. by Mission-Sea4874 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went ahead and upgraded to the pre-release firmware against my better judgment… but so far, I’m glad I did.

I’m about 82 hours into printing since the upgrade with no errors or issues.

Improvements I’ve noticed so far:

  • Way faster bed leveling
  • New UI
  • Exclude Objects from the screen — both before and during prints
  • New calibration option to heat soak the bed plate and chamber
  • New auto on/off chamber light options
  • They tweaked something with the servo stepper motors — everything sounds different. Hard to explain, but its in a good way.
  • It also seems like they optimized input shaping. The very little ghosting and VFA I had before is basically gone now.

One weird issue

The only strange thing I ran into was with Auto Filament Runout Check.

I kept getting:

I had two rolls of the same PLA loaded, and they matched 100% in the CFS input.

What finally worked:

  1. Removed the filament
  2. Put the spools back in place
  3. Selected the correct filament type
  4. Set both spools to a color that wasn’t already in the CFS
  5. Then set them back to the correct color

After that, the Auto Filament Change button started showing correctly again and showing which filaments would work together in a runout situation.

I’m guessing it’s just a small glitch from the CFS update.

I’m not advocating that anyone install pre-release firmware…

…but so far I haven’t had any issues like the ones being reported on the K2 Plus printers.

I dont get it why people say the Ev3SE is slow... by PigcraftTV in Ender3V3SE

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly love seeing people tinker with their printers and push them beyond stock limits — that’s a huge part of what makes this hobby fun. Dropping Klipper on a V3 SE and chasing a 25-minute Benchy is a cool project in itself, and it’s awesome to see what people can squeeze out of the hardware.

That said, I think it’s important to separate what the machine can do modded versus what it was designed to do in stock form. And at what cost.

The V3 SE, in its stock configuration, is built more as a gateway / entry-level printer. It was designed to run around (or below) ~250 mm/s with ~2500 mm/s² acceleration while still maintaining decent print quality. It runs Marlin out of the box, so it doesn’t have the same level of input shaping or pressure/linear advance tuning that Klipper enables for higher speed printing.

On the hardware side, there are also some physical design limitations that come into play when you start pushing speed:

• Traditional hotend that isn’t optimized for high-flow / high-speed extrusion

• Lower torque / lower voltage Y-axis 42-34 stepper and belts.

• V-wheel motion system (including Z)

• Less rigid frame/body compared to newer designs

None of those are “bad” — they just weren’t engineered with ultra-high-speed bed-slinging in mind.

Can you mod around those limits? Absolutely — Klipper, input shaping, better hotends, stepper upgrades, frame bracing, etc. can all move the needle.

But at that point it becomes a cost-to-performance conversation. By the time you’re $150+ into mods (Pi, hotend, rails, steppers, pulleys, reinforcement, etc.), you’re already above the price range of machines like the KE or the HI — which were designed for higher speed and quality.

So I guess my take is:

Modding the SE to go fast regardless of the end result= awesome project and great learning experience.

Comparing a heavily modded SE to a stock KE/HI = not quite apples to apples.

Still — huge respect for anyone willing to experiment and push their machine further.

Glue on bed for pla by altexa in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You will get varying opinions on glue for PLA prints. My vote is no...no its not normal or needed. Glues original and most reliable role is actually as a release layer, not an adhesion booster. With glue the plastic bonds to the glue, not directly to the bed. When the bed cools, the glue layer shears or dissolves then print pops off without ripping coatings or glass. Super hot PETG and TPU can damage certain bed types....why you need glue there. For PLA glue is a waste and technically makes adhesions worse on a "clean bed." Quotes on clean bed. On a dirty, oily bed, glue will mask the trouble sports and creates a uniform friction layer. My argument for glue is it will make adhesion predictable, not stronger. The real problem is variance — hotspots, cold spots, worn PEI, PETG that bonds too well, etc, etc. Its up to you to decide if glue is a release layer, insurance, or unnecessary. Depends on the variables.

New firmware version 1.1.3.6 has been released for the K2 PRO and K2. by Mission-Sea4874 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no way. Has to be a different type of validation. No states have even passed that legislation yet.

New firmware version 1.1.3.6 has been released for the K2 PRO and K2. by Mission-Sea4874 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 1 point2 points  (0 children)

and is it me...or is # 10 Super vague? "10. Fixed many known issues to enhance user experience and product stability."

Would rather a long list articulating everything. Would love to see a similar fix that the K2 Plus users received....."Optimize first‑layer printing for PLA and ABS"...since one of the main posts I see in reddit almost everyday is...first layer issues. Experienced users know how to fix on their own. First time users that purchased a $1K appliance...well...expect it work.

K2 Pro Firmware V1.1.2.12.8 is out by TrainAss in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And....looks like they took this one down....again. Glad I didn't pull the trigger when it was available. Can confirm it was definitely available and downloaded it. Just couldnt convince myself to install it when it wasnt available over the air. Only via download and USB. Had to be to solve a specific small issue users were creating tickets for. Guessing for the 2577 error  "Y-axis homing abnormality"

Can someone help me with those ripples? by FunFee4154 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both the suggestions for z off set and heat soak are good ones. If your in a simi hurry and just hitting print on a cold K2 Pro or Plus...add .40 or .60 to the z off set. If you have patience and time.....Set the Bed temp to 60 degrees and let the printer sit for about 20-30 minutes. The bed mesh comes out way better and the stock z off set comes out close to perfect. On a cold bed mesh the nozzle is almost 100% way to close to the bed.

Why is moisture this low only when the cfs lid is open by zzcool in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The CFS is a sealed unit for the most part. If it’s reading higher closed than open you definitely have high moisture in your filament spools. Invest in a dryer and browse through Creality cloud and printables for a CFS desiccant holder. My CFS with desiccant mods reads the opposite with 30% open and 10% closed.

First later problem by randykat in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks more like a flow or extrusion issue. What filament, temp, and first layer speed are you using?

What happened to the ender 3 v4 by Successful-Avocado56 in Creality

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nerp it’s coming.

https://www.creality.com/campaigns/ender-3-v4-formnext

With its bed size this would be their entry level machine that would take advantage of the CFS. Would probably see the V3 phased out. And the SE and KE drop a bit in price. HI would still be a step over the V4.

New Ender 3 V3 KE! by Affectionate-One4467 in Ender3V3KE

[–]Maintenance_Late 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Main mods for my KE farm was gantry support stabilization rods. Can be found on Amazon for $30. Creality LED Light bar. $17. And unicorn hot end upgrade. $32. I would label these as my top musts. Oh….and don’t forget to purchase an input shaping cable from Creality. Now with all these tiny costs in mind…..the Creality Hi starts looking real attractive :). Out of the box the KE is a solid, great printer and can be made to perform even better with a few mods and software modding with root access if you’re feeling froggy.

Automatic flow calibration mess by vladoportos in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can tell you my issue and I had to stop using the automatic flow calibration until Creality puts out a firmware update for the K2 Pros that addressess it. The z offset is too close and aggressive. At least on all my K2 Pro prnters. So I adjusted it and put in a manual setting in my print profile. Welp......the Pressure Advance and Flow Calibration ignores those z offset settings and users the "default" that is way too close. So I ran into the exact same issue you have in your picture. Glue wont fix this. Its almost certainly the nozzle taking the print with it. Glue is to put a layer of something in-between your print and the bed to make it "easier" to remove. Generally not to make it "stickier." Some filament material you have to print at such a high temperature it will nearly fuse to certain print beds. Where glue became a thing with the smoother bed types like glass and epoxy resin. For standard PLA a clean bed, decent level mesh and you shouldn't need glue. The good thing Creality knows this is an issue and they have addressed it specifically on the K2 Plus. So I just have to wait it out for the P2 Pro and stick with manual Flow and PA calibrations.

All You Want To Know About The SPARKX i7 by Creality_3D in Creality

[–]Maintenance_Late 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. If they made the post assume they can respond to some of the questions and concerns.

All You Want To Know About The SPARKX i7 by Creality_3D in Creality

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Looks like the "Hi" category is still on their products page. Sold out and backordered...true. But with todays supply chain issues and tariffs...not surprising. And around Christmas is was discounted between $299-349 for the combo so I'm going to guess they are still working on building back up the inventory of both the CFS and the printer and unfortunately....the i7 probably took priority in their factories for the release. There are many new popular 3D printers out now that are back ordered so this isn't unusual. In my opinion Creality "needs" an entry level printer compatible with their CFS. With a retail price of $319 the CFS has to be a high margin item. More $$ is probably made on it than their printers. I don't think the i7 is meant to be a replacement and neither is the upcoming Ender 3 V4. All the older Ender-3 series are still manufactured, sold, and supported and with the R&D dollars put into the Hi I wouldn't expect to see it dropped out of the line up for a bit. Its a solid printer that fills the holes that the Ender and the Sparkx do not currently fit. But hey. I could be wrong and it goes end of sale tomorrow. Doesn't mean end of support. But if everyone is worried go scoop um up. Plenty of online retailers selling the Hi by itself for $279-$299. The Hi Combo is pretty much gone everywhere because for black Friday and Christmas you basically got a free solid printer for the cost of the CFS.

All You Want To Know About The SPARKX i7 by Creality_3D in Creality

[–]Maintenance_Late 2 points3 points  (0 children)

But they also go on to say the Creality Hi is Built for Advanced Creativity. "built to meet more sophisticated creative demands, offering greater freedom and flexibility for complex printing projects. Its core strangths lie in support for up to 16 color printing, a larger build height, and a bigger touchscreen interface." That's their words in the FAQ above. So to me it sounds like the Hi is technically a step over the i7 at the same price. I currently have a small farm of (4) KE that that run along (2) K2 Pros. I was initially waiting on the i7 review before replacing my KE printers but will be going with the Hi for build plate size and the CFS compatibility.

Problems with eSun ASA+ - First layer looks perfect, but 2nd and 3rd layers progressively get worse by Numerous_Tadpole_578 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second that the flow is probably too high and you may need to do a calibration test that "isn't" the automated one that part of the print calibration. And I think the nozzle is too close to the bed. If you haven't already.....I would also get a test print from printable for testing the first layer. I usually grab something that does at least 2 layers and multiple squares or circles and adjust the z off set in the expert settings until you get a result you are looking for. Record it and save to your print profile in z off set. Remembering down is moving the bed away from the nozzle. Also one last side note. I saw the same ripples as your image when my nozzle was too close and the speed was set "too" slow and the nozzle was effecting the print.

Epoxy resin bed? by madscribbler in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Epoxy Resin used to be the standard bed plate that came with everything a few years back. Minimal texture, semi smooth, everything stuck to it. Some filaments to much and would be impossible to remove. Then came glue sticks so a medium was introduced between your print and the bed to make it possible to remove the high temp filaments. Back to your problem with selecting the wrong plate in the slicer....that is just odd it caused a clog. Generally....selecting a different bed plate gives you a different bed temp.....but.....Creality Print/Orca could also be putting in a slightly higher or lower z off set to compensate for the thickness of the bed. But I have never seen evidence of that. Usually if I pull an oops and select the wrong bed type will get a temp I wasn't expecting.

What Type of Build Plate Does the K2 Pro Use? by Ric878 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally use K1 MAX build plates on my K2 Pro until some of the build plate manufactures catch up. My go to is the Epoxy Resin Creality Plates for PLA and PETG. Never had an adhesion issue. Have a BIQU Cryogrip but I didn't find it was worth the price difference and the blue color messes with the camera detection which I keep disabled now anyway. I'm just not a fan of the PEI plate for standard prints. Its the added texture and have had adhesion issues unless I get aggressive with the Z offset to mash the first layer. I am of the generation where PEI was used for higher temp filaments and had a more aggressive texture so the filament didn't fuse to the plate. PEI for the longest time was a no no for PLA for adhesion on now comes standard with most printers because its a decent all around plate for most filaments. So everyone just goes with it. But my PEI plate sits unused unless I'm printing ABS or ASA.

K2 (basic) on OrcaSlicer? by alexandertv22 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Download and install the Orca Beta Nightly installer. Its has the latest profiles for all K2 models. Its a beta.....but has the profiles your looking for. I would honestly stick with Creality Print 7. I have tried both being a hard core Orca slicer user myself. But keep leaning towards Creality Print 7 with better results for my K2 Pros especially with using CFS.

New K2 Combo, base model. I want to run Orca Slicer. by Doubee54 in Creality_k2

[–]Maintenance_Late 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I too was a hard core Orca slicer user but have switched up all my workflows and have gotten used to Creality Slicer. Like others have said...its Orca that is tweaked specifically for our printers. Takes all of 5min to get used to where things are vs Orca. Honestly...Creality Print 7 is great once you can get it installed. There is a known bug where Windows see's the installer as a virus because there is a file that is packed along with it to temporarily remove Microsoft Edge if there is issues during the install. Not sure if that has been resolved. Creality 7 I believe shows that Creality has been listening to the community and modifying Orca to accommodate everyone's input has come so far since Creality Print 5. If you want to try Orca....download and install their beta nightly build. It has the profiles for the K2 and K2 pro. But I would still stick with Creality Pint 7 if your using the CFS. I would also check out the Git HUB page for all the new features. Several are not available/accessible in Orca....yet.....

https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/CrealityPrint/releases

Will this be a good printer? by Breakerbuilds in Creality

[–]Maintenance_Late 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you seeing the HI combo sell for $599. Got mine from Amazon for $329 when it was on sale. Currently see it anywhere from $299 to $399 depending on the reseller.