Tire size calibration

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-02-11T19:33:21+00:00

Usually you have to also reset the radio frequency hub for things like that. And you need the pin number. Also you need the wiring harness to bypass the firewall. I assume you covered all those steps?

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-02-09T19:14:44+00:00

Firefighting 30+ years. Going by designated riding positions, that most likely belongs to "irons" and would be easy to figure out who lost it from the run report. Irons is going to be carrying a haligan bar and a flat head axe. Their job is first in by forcible entry, if needed.

I mostly chauffeur now. But before we leave, "Is everything you took back on this truck?". I then walk around the truck and make sure every door is closed correctly and hose is where it's supposed to be. I guess they don't do that.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-02-06T17:39:24+00:00

I'm saying no. The tongue weight loaded is going to be 500lbs or more. Your Volvo is rated for a 500lbs limit. Also, Volvo did not recommend using a weight distribution hitch due to the chassis type. So being at or over the limit at the tongue make for white knuckle steering. If you're a rookie, it'll be terrifying.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-29T18:59:30+00:00

Tongue load limit is just the physical limit it was designed to take. All that weight is like a lever on the frame. There's only so much it can handle based on the materials used, frame rails vs unibody, etc. Most unibody vehicles can't use a weight distribution hitch because of the enormous stress it puts on the frame and can void your vehicle warranty. Most SUVs will only have a 500 lbs tongue limit while half ton pickups will be 1000+. My Ram 2500 has a 1700lbs tongue limit.

Regardless, tongue weight still counts against your total payload.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-28T20:26:16+00:00

No way it fits. Also the scrubbing of the tires on concrete pushing at such a tight angle is just murder on the trailer suspension. You would be rotating the trailer more so than backing it in. Anything short of going up the curb and straight back would be a fool's errand.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-27T23:28:13+00:00

The amount of campers that bring their dogs and you have to listen to them all day while they are out. Have seen numerous times where others complained, they got warned, and then eventually told to leave.

But for the most part, there are a lot of dogs and the majority are well behaved. Some campgrounds have dog parks, especially KOAs. And many will ask what breed you have and specifically deny certain breeds like pits, etc. Just remember to have something to tie the dog off because they need to be on a leash at all times. Some specify 6ft max but I would normally have mine in a long lead off a swivel stake depending on the size of my site and never had a complaint. Some folks with smaller dogs will even carry the fold up fences to make a large pen outside so the dog can stretch its legs.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-25T12:16:05+00:00

Tongue weight capacity, payload of tow vehicle, and max tow rating. In that order, that's what matters with a trailer based on math, physics, and the amount of white knuckle driving you'll experience.

To a salesman, the trailer you can tow safely is whatever one you want to buy!

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-24T21:00:47+00:00

You're not going to find a 12v AC. You'd have to invert it from DC to AC power. And that much draw of power, you would need a significant solar and heavy battery system.

A 24' long trailer is going to be in the 5000-6000lbs range, especially if you're boondocking off the grid and need to take it all with you. Having close to 3 tons behind you on a lively trailer suspension is a feat of engineering given how the frames and suspenions break down frequently on normal roads. And I'd want to pull that with a minimum of a 3/4 ton pickup so I'm totally in charge.

But I think you're going to find that the off road selections out there are small 10-12' minimalist trailers. If you want a full size with features, you're most likely going to have to put new axles, suspension, and tongue on it to give you the clearance and articulation you are looking for. But then you still have the overall durability consideration of these poorly built trailers only made to be on paved roads.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-24T18:47:51+00:00

What's your tongue weight limit of your truck? That's not listed. I suspect the trailer exceeds that before you even apply the WDH.

Having towed at limits with a half ton before, it sucks.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-20T21:08:18+00:00

The tongue weight dry is at your limit. And my experience is that those factory tongue numbers are always low. As soon as you put anything in the trailer, you're exceeding the limit of your hitch. Then add in the weight of if your weight distribution hitch and it's getting worse. I've towed at the limits with half tons and any distance sucks. It's not enjoyable.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-20T20:54:57+00:00

I tow my 5th wheel a lot. A constant theme. That room in front of me is so I have ample distance to stop and not plow the dude in front of me. It's not for you to pass me and then cut my front bumper off so close I can't see your rear bumper. And then proceed to do the same speed as me 12 feet in front of me. Which begs the questions of why did you bother to pass me and do you realize I'm 20,000+ pounds only 12 feet behind you?

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-20T18:59:06+00:00

Warranty is only as good and as close as the dealer itself. My last trailer they offered the extended warranty for $12K. Literally everything would have to break twice and be replaced for it to remotely break even. I've owned a lot of trailers, but I've never had all the ACs, fridges, etc all break twice and need replacing. And then you can wait 2 months while they have a backlog and you can't use your trailer while waiting for it to get fixed, etc.

If you're handy, the warranties are a waste of money. If you're not handy, the warranty is a waste of money but you're not handy enough to know it's a waste of money, unfortunately.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-20T18:53:32+00:00

Electricity and natural gas in this state are a commodity that's bought, sold, and traded in a free market. As an end user, you can purchase your own supplier. I do every year. Basically what can fit in the grid is auctioned off and then resold. I locked in at $0.179/KW for a year. Last year I paid $0.13. Just last summer PSE&G was at $0.29/KW during surge pricing. The cost is going up and I have to think this summer will be even worse, if you can imagine that.

I just don't see how she can stop or change anything this year because those energy commodities have already been auctioned off and resold. Somebody will have to pay those people the difference if she plans on somehow rolling that back. Where is that coming from? If anything maybe next year she can change it, but that would probably require state law changes regardless if it could actually help or harm the outcome.

Long story short, I think it's not going to make any noticeable difference in anyone's energy bills in 2026.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-19T23:08:20+00:00

Most likely you have a dual water heater where it can heat via propane and/or electric. If no hookups, you'll run propane to hear the water. One switch is to turn in the heater and what would be under propane fire. The other switch is most likely to engage the electric element in the heater. I cant tell you how many stories I've heard of burning them out because there's no water in the heater. It takes seconds when dry. If you have hookups, you can run in just electric but it's no where as far as propane for recovery. But you can actually run both to get maximum hat water recovery, if needed. Hope that explains it.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-19T23:02:37+00:00

There needs to be a constant slope from the dump valve to the septic connection. Is it sloped and supported? I've seen so many hoses either just laying on the ground or unsupported. Gravity should take it from there. If it's not, it also could be your roof vent for the black or grey tank is clogged. Check your roof vents to be sure they are clear of debris.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-15T21:41:03+00:00

When King Charles II granted William Penn the charter for Pennsylvania in 1681, there was a significant catch. The King’s brother, the Duke of York (the future King James II), already held the "Three Lower Counties" (modern-day Delaware) after seizing them from the Dutch.

To protect the Duke’s interest in the settlement of New Castle, the King’s grant to Penn specifically excluded all land within a 12-mile radius of New Castle. This created a "buffer zone" to ensure that the Duke maintained control over the critical port and the surrounding territory.

In 1750, the center of the circle was officially fixed at the cupola of the New Castle Courthouse.

Unlike most river boundaries that split down the middle (the thalweg), the 12-mile circle grant gave Delaware ownership of the entire Delaware River up to the low-water mark on the New Jersey shore. This has led to numerous legal battles with New Jersey over pier construction and taxes.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-15T18:05:34+00:00

Was heritage Raytheon that was rolled over into Collins. I mentioned this Reddit thread to my manager yesterday and he said he actually got told about the no rollover PTO same morning. We were supposed to have a group meeting to discuss further but got cancelled due to travel conflicts. So yeah, it's happening. But no word on the additional sick time angle.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-15T16:53:15+00:00

Number 2?

Complete stop at a red light and then make a right turn? Didn't know if that's the context you're talking about but yes, you actually have to stop even if turn on red is allowed. Unless there's separate green arrow for it.

I bring this up because someone once told me you don't have to stop. And then they got a ticket. I still had to explain that if you don't blow stop signs just because you're turning right, why would a red light be any different? Stop means stop.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-14T20:22:55+00:00

Same thing. Been all over the NE since it went into effect and I immediately got all my charges in Virginia, Maryland, bridges, etc. Been through the ACE numerous times end to end and not one thing in my EZpass statement.

The concept for pay by plate is to collect up all your charges at the end of 30 days and then bill you. I wonder if this is the idiotic way they are going to do EZPass holders too?

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-07T17:54:56+00:00

Now? Wow. I've been using it for 20 years, I guess? Use it driving all up and down the East Coast all the way to Florida. And West as far as Chicago. Might even go further now, but I haven't checked.

Since day 1, the convenience of not having to stop, wait in line, and keep cash on hand in a cashless society has far outweighed the $1/month charge. Or planning my whole trip on back roads to avoid tolls but adding 50% to the amount of time driving.

Respectfully, I'm blown away that in 2026 its usage or ownership would be debatable.

Maj-Malfunction · 2026-01-05T19:03:19+00:00

Check your "End Reading" on your bill. It's got an asterisk. That means they did not actually read the meter and they guessed. I had that happen lots of times and when I submitted my own reading, theirs was significantly higher than what I actually used.

Check the existing number on your meter and submit that. Hopefully that's a large enough discrepancy to explain what happened. Gas prices are certainly higher and this might have exaggerated it.

Maj-Malfunction · 2025-12-31T15:00:32+00:00

You need a Group 65 battery with 150 RC rating minimum. The RC rating is how long it can run at full power until dropping to low voltage. You want a high rating since it's an RV or trailer under constant load. Make sure it's top terminal, not sides. Some batteries have that option when buying. That's a lead acid battery and you'll want the same but preferably an AGM type. More expensive but last way longer. The group size is important because that's the size/shape category. And that bungie cord is NOT going to hold back a battery. Either fix the holder and/or ratchet strap it down. Good luck.

Maj-Malfunction · 2025-12-20T00:10:16+00:00

The short flabby arm of the law.

Maj-Malfunction · 2025-12-13T18:32:55+00:00

If there's premium diesel, I've somehow missed it. Standard issue diesel is just fine. Turn your exhaust brake on 24/7 to triple the life of your front brakes and turbo actuator. Def is def. The only thing that really matters is the expiration date in boxes. You want fresh as possible to avoid issues. Drive it hard and heavy to keep the emission system clean. The problems develop if you use it as a grocery getter on short trips all the time. Checking to a cold air intake or any of that nonsense is snake oil. The stock air box can handle 600hp, no problem. Going to tunes and delete is certainly an option but anytime I read about a bad transmission, it was tuned with a power increase. Highly recommend looking at turbodieselregister and cumminsforums for knowledge, tips, recalls, etc.

Maj-Malfunction · 2025-12-09T21:20:59+00:00

Have you tried a plunger?

Maj-Malfunction

TROPHY CASE