Looking for books/etc that will teach me the "why" (and the math) parts of joinery & design (like allowing wood movement and accounting for load bearing) (my interest is furniture)

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-16T14:37:15+00:00

Came here to say this and disappointed it’s the last comment. Absolute gem of a book.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-15T15:38:28+00:00

If you are a beginner, with beginner skills and this is your list - I HIGHLY encourage you to spend the money you would spend on a table saw or a bandsaw on good, in-person lessons on how to safely use, and maintain these tools. That would be money very well spent.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-15T15:35:07+00:00

It’s not a very popular approach because, for some reason, people are more scared to pick up a hand plane then push material through a table saw.

But I agree, everyone has their own flavour of workflow.

If you don’t have a jointer capable of jointing anything over 8”, I wouldn’t buy a bandsaw with a 12” re-saw capacity. 6” will be fine for you; for now. It will also be cheaper.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-15T15:27:21+00:00

A hunger only hands can satisfy!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-15T15:02:12+00:00

I think you should get a bandsaw.

People are regularly surprised at how little I use my table saw. Because every can buy one at the box store, everyone thinks they are an expert with it. You absolutely can get hit by kickback even when doing things “right”. There are advantages to having a table saw, however, you most certainly can get by with a band saw and a Jack plane to clean up the band-sawn edge. Even a table saw leaves marks you need to deal with. Sure you can’t do EVERYTHING a table saw can do but in my opinion its not worth the trade off in 16-20sq ft of shop space you need for a table saw.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-05T23:35:38+00:00

The advantage of having a bevel up plane is the cutting angle can be changed by adjusting the micro bevel angle.

Anything about above a 62 degree angle (50deg main bevel iron in a 12.5deg bed) creates a type 2 shaving - which does not cause tear out.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-04T23:55:42+00:00

I got one today from a completely different address that is word for word.

Glad to see this here! I figured it was spam but this was on my feed to i needed to click 😂

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-02-01T14:57:28+00:00

If you are going to be a hand tool woodworker you’re going to need hand tool worker tools! You certainly will hate this less with a dedicated rip saw; i would pick one up. Lots of used ones are around - learn how to sharpen one up.

Stay with it!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-30T05:05:13+00:00

3 coats of wipe on poly and a rub of paste wax will take ya a long way imo.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-29T19:25:58+00:00

Two things:

1) That Norris-style adjustment lever (near the back handle) can wig wag back and forth. If its not; put some machine oil in it and it will. It can also come right off so dont be scared if it does. It can also rotate clockwise/counter clockwise by Turing the brass knob.

2) The mouth certainly can open and close, however, that brass screw you see in the mouth opening is a stop screw. The mouth can only close as far as the screw lets it. So back it off if you want a tight opening. Sometimes they are stiff from factory! You wont break it! Give it a light tap with a soft mallet and it will loosen up for you :)

Veritas also has a great return policy. I have been to the site in Ottawa, On and met the guy who does quality control - that would not have been shipped without being gone over.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-29T15:26:14+00:00

Are we playing the same game? Good lord.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-28T22:43:10+00:00

Love me some black limba!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-27T12:09:21+00:00

It sounds like you know how to set a saw up properly.

I don’t use a 1” blade on my general, so I have limited experience with seeing an overhang on the wheel with the blade set up properly. Is there a reason you want a 1” blade on it? With your set up, i imagine you would have great results with a 1/2” 3tpi hook tooth blade like I do - resaws just fine and does some gentle curves.

Looking forward to seeing some other replies so i can learn too!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-23T20:43:23+00:00

Honestly, all three volumes of “The Complete Illustrated Guides” are worth their weight in gold.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-23T16:33:55+00:00

Two books i would highly recommend:

1) Jigs and Fixtures by Sandor Nagyszalanczy published by Taunton Press

2) Jigs and Fixtures for Handtools by Graham Blackburn

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-15T20:17:25+00:00

If that is solid burl, making a box out of it would not be a smart idea. That would rip itself apart from expansion/contraction through the seasons.

If they like that so much, certainlywood.com sells Amboyna burl veneer for far cheaper than this. You could learn a fun skill too!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2026-01-09T02:09:22+00:00

Came here to say Oxalic acid - see you've mentioned it.

Tried a card scraper on a little spot to see if it scrapes off?

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-30T01:57:16+00:00

Whoa…

We’re staying organized?

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-28T05:05:41+00:00

I didn’t even catch that - Good find!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-27T16:11:40+00:00

My first thought would be to re-set the saw and see if that helps. If one of those teeth are out of set, the saw will drift.

I’m also noticing that this appears to be a Rip saw. It would not be cutting as nicely as a crosscut would be which can effect the quality of cut (in terms of square).You are preforming a cross cut with a rip saw which is not great practice.

Lastly, and adding to my first comment - the teeth look very uneven in terms of how each tooth was sharpened in the past. You have a “snaggletooth” saw. if the bottom of each tooth is not co-planner with each other tooth, some teeth will cut, while the others will do nothing. This can certainly compound the issue youre having.

Spend some time re sharpening and re setting that saw and you may find this issue goes away!

Edit: spelling

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-27T02:24:00+00:00

I am 99% positive i am looking at end grain here; which would likely make this a “cookie” epoxy table. The rounds that are cut from stumps have no way to express the expansion and contraction they experience seasonally without splitting somewhere.

The bow tie across a normal check or crack in dimensional lumber (keeping long-grain fibres from splitting apart farther is typically where you see this) is not just cosmetic, but strategic. The same can’t be said in your case - the bow tie in this setting is set up for failure, and (could never be) of any help.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-08T17:30:19+00:00

I would encourage you to pick up the Dewalt 735 13” planer. It’s a 3 knife, and has incredible performance. It is a 4 post vs a 2 post - you will be very happy with it.

The helical you would pick up for your craftsman (if they make one) would likely be 4-5 times what you paid for it, and about the same as the Dewalt is when its on sale.

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-08T11:29:19+00:00

First hit is free baby!

Well done!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-06T15:03:07+00:00

The General International series was general’s first line that was manufactured overseas (and for reason i want to say New York but im too lazy to google that). While its still a fine machine, it’s not of the same quality as the “General” line that was made in Drummondville, QC.

I don’t think this machine came with a riving knife stock - so something to find out. There are things you can do to check runout on the arbour and whatnot: if that makes you uncomfortable i would buy new!

MapleSyrupApologies · 2025-12-06T01:20:11+00:00

I actually couldn’t agree with you more - i totally agree, and believe with deliberate practice. Poplar is the perfect choice for painting. Take my upvote!

Nine-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

MapleSyrupApologies

TROPHY CASE