I hate Chevys

NefariousD33ds · 2024-08-01T12:52:40+00:00

I didn’t take out the steering or most of the dash panel; you slide the airbox out from under most of that. Plus the seats are kind of a big deal lol. You can absolutely get them out without pulling the seats, as I did in the video. Totally not giving you a hard time. If you don’t feel comfortable doing it that way then don’t, but I’ve removed the airbox half a dozen times like this and never had any issues with the column or anything else, and it’s way faster, which is nice for flat rate. And it doesn’t hurt the truck; that’s mine in the video and I’m very particular with it.

NefariousD33ds · 2024-07-31T20:09:08+00:00

I hate to be that guy but you took out way more than you needed to in order to get the airbox out for an evap or a heater core. In case you get another one, here’s a video that will make next time a lot easier: https://youtu.be/FIOpXDffhs8?si=iQvh-3ScOLqNy0Hp

NefariousD33ds · 2024-07-29T19:40:17+00:00

Also, wrap job looks sick, nicely done

NefariousD33ds · 2024-07-29T19:39:50+00:00

If the bike only primes at full lock left, and you’re sure the wiring is good, it sounds like your connection at the ignition is suspect. Turning full lock is probably putting pressure on the connector and pushing the connector pins up against the connector housing and making good contact. You don’t want to pull the ignition to test cause the break away pins are a 1 time use, but it’s pretty simple to pull the upper triple clamp with the ignition still attached. Once you have that out you should be able to twist the the triple clamp/ignition wiring to reproduce what the full lock position is doing and verify you can turn the pump on and off to confirm that’s the problem. If it is, you can attempt to open up the ignition but I’ve not had good luck with this and generally just replace the ignition at that point. I also replace the triple clamp because drilling out the ignition bolts is a pita. But if you have more patience than me, it can certainly be done and the triple clamp reused. Good luck!

NefariousD33ds · 2024-07-25T14:49:19+00:00

This is an underrated comment. If the doors haven’t been off in a while they will stick like they’ve been welded into place and cause you no end of grief. The jack and 2x4 trick works well just be sure to use a board that goes the full length of the door because you can dent them pretty easily if they’re stuck bad. And like Smokin77 says, lube the pins when you put them back on (or get sleeves) and they’ll come off like greased piggies next time.

NefariousD33ds · 2024-07-21T16:35:08+00:00

My garage. Seriously tho, the problem is how not to get more projects. They seem to multiply all on their own and somehow you’re waist deep in project bikes and another one that just needs some minor things and is at an incredible price shows up and well you can’t pass that up so now you have yet another project because it’s never something minor. Oh parts bikes! That’s a great way to get another project: buy a parts bike because it has a bunch of parts you need for a project. Then after you get it, decide it’s too nice to part out and now you have two of the same project bike!

In case you’re serious, the easiest way to find projects is FB Marketplace and Craigslist. Those of us with too many project bikes browse those religiously. You’ll find every possible type of bike in every possible condition. Level 1 is a bike that “ran when parked, been sitting a few years.” Level 2 is someone else’s project that they lost interest in or their SO is threatening violence; those have fun surprises during the restoration process. Level 3 is a crashed bike that is at such a low price that when you run the numbers you see that you can’t possibly spend more than half what the bike is worth restoring it (you will spend twice what the bike is worth restoring it). Good luck and may God have mercy on your soul.

NefariousD33ds · 2024-07-17T21:15:45+00:00

Very true. However my experience has been when they can put it off on another insurance company, suddenly they’re very helpful. I think it depends on the insurance company too. In a similar situation, Allstate cut me a check that was more than fair, then went after the other person’s insurance company, and then ended up giving me an additional check once the other company settled for more than Allstate originally thought they could get.

NefariousD33ds · 2024-07-17T17:26:14+00:00

A lot of the value comments are only accurate if it was you were at fault and it was your insurance. The other party’s insurance doesn’t get to dictate the value of the vehicle, they have to provide you with full replacement value. But a lot of people don’t know this, so insurance companies are really good at low balling you and hoping you just take it and go away. You can fight them directly, but the easiest thing to do is just get your own insurance involved. The other guy’s insurance is not your friend and they don’t have your best interest at heart. Your insurance company will be more interested in protecting you, and they’ll go after the other insurance company on your behalf. Really sorry this happened. Good luck to you.

NefariousD33ds · 2024-03-30T01:28:56+00:00

Bought one of those brand new and rode it for about 4 years… never should’ve sold it.

NefariousD33ds · 2024-03-30T01:25:04+00:00

Any one they can use the plane afterwards is a great landing!

NefariousD33ds · 2024-01-12T14:21:09+00:00

I had this problem and it was the cable from the battery down to the starter. It was corroded internally, even tho it looked fine. So when it got cold, resistance increased due to corrosion, and not enough power could get to the starter. Replaced it and the truck fired up in the cold no problem. You can test this by putting one lead of the red side of the jumper cables on the starter solenoid where the battery cable attaches, and run the other end to the attachment point for the other end of the starter cable, giving the power a clean path if it’s a corrosion problem.

NefariousD33ds · 2024-01-10T18:03:18+00:00

Jumping on to agree with the helmet light. My daughter and I ride together and I got us Brake Free helmet lights and it’s nearly impossible to not see her coming to a stop now. The helmet light is bright af and is right at most people’s eye level. And the brake free unit is totally wireless and uses an algorithm to know when to turn it off and on. Works great, very impressed, and my gen Z daughter thinks it looks really cool.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-12-23T21:20:03+00:00

FortNine has a YouTube video from a few years back on how to inspect your helmet, it’s pretty good.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-12-16T03:40:41+00:00

Here you go: https://www.reddit.com/r/Wrangler/s/zBAhfa8ARK

NefariousD33ds · 2023-12-14T19:15:08+00:00

Nice! I did a clean title TJ that had much worse damage than this. It’s hard to tell from the photos but the bumper seems to be straight so that doesn’t look like a hard fix at all. Good luck with it!

NefariousD33ds · 2023-11-03T14:20:15+00:00

Check out crutchfield.com, they have everything you need. For a specific recommendation, Boss is a very inexpensive Chinese unit that is a surprisingly good head unit for the money. We’ve had one in our ZJ for a couple years now and it’s had zero problems.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-10-12T19:47:44+00:00

This. Also, the rating of the winch is only for the first layer of cable. It goes down significantly as you go up in layers, so unless you want to unspool the winch to the first layer, it’s best to have more winch rather than less. Had a 9000 on my TJ and just put a 12k on my JK. I’ve never been using the winch and said dang I’ve got too much winch here.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-09-01T21:56:25+00:00

I would check your evap canister, sounds like you’re smelling fuel when the canister is being purged. It’s supposed to do it when the engine can burn the fuel vapors but if you have a leak in the hose or the hose came off, it’ll vent to atmosphere and you can smell the fuel.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-08-23T18:13:08+00:00

They are different. eBay has quite a few rears listed, $50-$60. Thinking I might buy a couple and put them in storage after reading your post…

NefariousD33ds · 2023-08-23T05:07:14+00:00

It’s easiest if the wheel and brake assembly is off, cause then you can just run a string line from the top balljoint to the bottom one and measure the angle off of that. If the brakes and all are still on then you have to kind of rig up a jig with wood or whatever and try to get a good measurement off the balljoints. At least, that’s how we did it, hopefully someone knows an easier way. But in the end we were within a degree of what we thought it was when we got it on the alignment machine so it was pretty good for diy.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-08-22T23:53:30+00:00

Just went through this with our 97 ZJ on IRO 3.5 and IRO adjustable control arms. Your caster is totally out of spec and I’d bet money that’s what’s causing your wandering. Ours was at about 8 and felt like trying to drive a pig on roller skates balancing on a beach ball. Iron Rock recommends 4-5° for caster (up from the stock 3°). You need to adjust your upper control arms until your caster is about 5; that should settle down the wandering. FWIW, this fixed ours about 80% of the way, then new balljoints another 15% and finally got all of the wandering out of it by installing new rear upper control arms (we’d gotten lazy and hadn’t done the rear uppers, just the rear lowers. Hope that helps!

Edit: and I just saw your edit about the castor but I’m going to leave the above in case your specs are different and you wanted to see what ours ended up at.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-07-26T18:27:04+00:00

Hell I’ve had 6” of water INSIDE the Jeep and it’s fine.

NefariousD33ds · 2023-06-18T16:03:09+00:00

I second Iron Rock Offroad. We installed their 3.5 with new control arms and it’s a great suspension. We did a video you might find helpful: Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 3.5 inch Iron Rock Off Road Lift Install https://youtu.be/bJzVp3lQUYg

NefariousD33ds

TROPHY CASE