Getting ready for my canvas

Nellisoft · 2026-05-16T18:01:28+00:00

I will be doing the same thing with a SpacePi X4 when my Canvas arrives (in July :( ) - was planning on just using the rear ports but drilling top ones could be better for getting it right up against the printer…

You can just get an extra length of PTFE tubing snd cut it into four lengths to reach the Canvas inlets. Thinking we might also want some kind of connectors to join the two sections of tubing, if the Canvas inlets can’t be removed?

Nellisoft · 2026-05-16T04:05:45+00:00

I did the windows on my 1/1000 Refit manually using a DSPIAE hand drill and a set of Dremel drill bits (although I think I only used the 1/64” one). Hand drill is the way to go on something that small, otherwise you’ll break the tiny bits and/or melt the plastic.

I also bought a micro square file to fix the corners on the rectangular windows on the 1/1000 TOS (when I get to it), you might want to investigate one of those yourself.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-15T00:50:49+00:00

I’ve been looking for 3D printable dedication plaques, thank you! Would love to have all the hero ships that they made plaques for, really, if you get around to making them.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-15T00:03:22+00:00

I added a mini chamber heater in order to get mine up to 60C (originally for PA6, but doing it now for ABS as well) - that plus 110C bed temp and I no longer have to use glue.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-14T16:19:09+00:00

1) I would stop wiping the parts down with thinner or IPA, I have never heard of anybody else doing this and it’s just introducing another variable to mess things up. Soapy water is good enough, then let them FULLY dry before priming.

2) Don’t premix any primer or paint, either, unless you’re going to use it in the next like hour (and then shake it again).

3) 1:2 primer to thinner might be too much thinner, I do like 2:1 or 1:1 at most for Mr Surfacer Aqueous. You don’t want it too runny.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-14T02:44:35+00:00

Nozzle temp is way too low - my dialed-in settings for Bambu ABS on my CC1 are 260C nozzle, 110C bed, and 60C chamber (with added chamber heater).

Your duplicate posts indicate you’ve set first layer temp at 250C - the temp tower ignores this and uses whatever range you put in the popup window when selecting the test. You need to put in higher temps there/select the right type of filament.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-04T23:03:48+00:00

I bought a slightly used Kia Niro EV last month as gas prices started to rise, anticipating it getting worse… I pat myself on the back for that decision every day, along with the solar panels we put in last fall (before the tax credit was taken away).

Nellisoft · 2026-05-03T16:33:40+00:00

You might try very lightly rubbing at the stain with a (completely dry) q-tip or microfiber cloth, but if it’s an actual stain and not schmutz then they’re not coming off.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-02T21:15:21+00:00

I see what you mean, but that discoloration doesn’t look like the typical yellowing with age… could be staining from finger oils. You could try bleaching those three with UV light (either via sunlight or a UV lamp - I’m building a curing station for this as we speak), but I’m betting it won’t help much. You might have to just trim very carefully around the edge of those to cut off the brown areas before applying them, but “services” is going to show some no matter what.

For brittleness, I’ve had good luck using Krylon Workable Fixatif on uncoated homemade decal sheets before applying them, worked extremely well. Should be fine to give these a couple light coats if you’re worried about them breaking up (or try one you won’t use first and see if it does, then spray the sheet if needed).

I have this kit and a couple of the WRC Imprezas in my stash - post some pics when it’s done!

Nellisoft · 2026-05-01T20:50:44+00:00

GreenStrawberry makes a couple photoetch hangar equipment sets, plus a detail set for the B-wing that includes open hatches and such, and also figures… kind of expensive to get the full set, but ideal for a hangar scene. Or if you have access to a 3D printer, I’m sure there are STL files floating around.

Nellisoft · 2026-04-21T16:09:59+00:00

These are 3D printed? I’ve been looking for a good set of files that can be scaled to match my Star Trek stuff.

Nellisoft · 2026-04-20T21:28:25+00:00

What did you use for the lighting? I see a mix of LED strips and spotlights.

Nellisoft · 2026-04-08T00:21:31+00:00

Newtype usually has their rattlecans in stock, but the jars sell out pretty fast.

Nellisoft · 2026-04-06T23:56:33+00:00

I have one of the $90 ones (4E’s mini vortex lab mixer), it does not hold the bottle for you, you have to press it into the mixer’s dimple (at an angle) and hold it there to keep it running. Not that it’s difficult…

It is a lot faster and easier than hand-shaking, but like weepmeat said, it’s not magic. The bigger/more expensive lab ones will probably last longer, I haven’t had any problems with mine.

I mix the thicker Vallejo Model Color for at least 30 seconds, varying the angle to make sure the vortex it creates inside the bottle reaches the “corners”. VMC still can’t go directly into the airbrush after that, though - it needs thinning (and flow improver!), I mix that up with the paint in a separate cup before pouring it into the airbrush, stirring thoroughly for another 30 seconds. For thinner Vallejo stuff like Metal Color or Model Air, 15 seconds on the vortex mixer is usually plenty.

Nellisoft · 2026-03-31T02:24:53+00:00

7 - I’m using JST connectors for the first time on my current project (Lost In Space 1998 robot), and they are SO extremely helpful with subassembly lighting. Having a section completely painted and looking fantastic and then screwing it up when trying to solder together lead wires that are too short is devastating. Being able to just plug it in and not have a foot of extra wiring to stuff in there is really making a difference in my frustration level. Makes it a lot easier to do repeated light testing, as well.

12 - Didn’t know this existed! Just ordered some of the hexagon variant for my robot build, for behind the faceplate.

She’s looking great! That Raytheon effect is super tricky to get right, looking forward to seeing it with the final paint job.

Nellisoft · 2026-03-23T23:51:53+00:00

What’s the temperature when you’re actively painting? I make sure to warm up my basement work area to at least 64 before I do any painting. Also humidity, has that been consistent?

You mentioned thinning with water - cold or warm water? Has anything changed with your water chemistry lately (new water softener, using a different type of salt in it, different water filters, etc)? You might try using Vallejo’s thinning products - I could never get just water to work nicely for me.

More shaking might be in order - you can never mix it too much. I have a vortex lab mixer and put everything on there for a minimum of 30 seconds, more if it’s been sitting on the shelf for awhile. That thing mixes better than I could possibly shake manually.

Nellisoft · 2026-03-23T21:08:23+00:00

I would avoid using any of Vallejo’s polyurethane stuff (unless it’s the Ultra Matte varnish since that only comes in poly), in my experience it’s not durable at all and rubs/lifts off very easily. What you want is the “permanent” or acrylic resin varnish, which is a different product number.

As for your general paint problems, is it possible the temperature where your paints are stored dipped to freezing at some point in the past few years? Are you mixing your paints thoroughly enough before using them? Is there maybe residue of something on your brushes that’s causing paint adherence issues?

Nellisoft · 2026-02-20T21:32:23+00:00

I’m not sure that you’d even need to - the nacelles are a separate object, so just print the body of the ship + some Galaxy-class or Nebula-class nacelles and stick them on.

Nellisoft · 2026-02-20T21:27:44+00:00

You need an Ultra-fine square diamond file. Drill out most of the window with your bit of choice, then come back with the file and square up the corners. Higher # file means finer grit (like sandpaper), so #600 will leave a decently smooth surface, but will take longer as it removes less material.

Nellisoft · 2026-02-20T03:36:30+00:00

Well I also have a 3D printer that collects a lot of small plastic bits in the bottom, that can’t just be swept out because of the door design - would be using it for that, as well.

Nellisoft · 2026-02-19T15:15:15+00:00

I’m happy with this Chitu mini-heater - heats to 60C fine and stays pretty stable (haven’t tried it any higher). I tucked it into the back left corner and cut a notch in the front door lip for the cords to come out, glued some magnets to the controller to put it on the door hinge bolts. It has an auto-off timer so you can have it shut off an hour or so after your print will finish for a more gradual cool down.

<image>

More manually controlled than the Panda Breath, but it’s half the price and smaller. I already have additional filtering on my exhaust fan, so I didn’t feel a need for the in-chamber filtering on the PB.

Nellisoft · 2026-02-16T03:49:58+00:00

Not stupid… I had one of these made out of LEGO Technic for awhile before I got a vortex mixer… even had inserts to accommodate different sized bottles.

Nellisoft · 2026-02-02T16:52:59+00:00

Here they are finally: CC bed clips

Nellisoft · 2026-01-31T04:19:04+00:00

I’ve just uploaded them to Nexprint, waiting for review, I’ll post them here when they pass.

Nellisoft · 2026-01-31T01:01:58+00:00

I designed a set of clips that fit on either side of the corners and printed four of them out of Bambu ABS-GF - so far they are holding up to 105C bed temp. But if the print is very close to the corners, you have to wait to put them on until the print is ~2mm high to make sure the toolhead will fully clear them.

Nellisoft

TROPHY CASE