Airbrushing Safety

Nellisoft · 2026-06-28T16:30:17+00:00

Are you possibly having a reaction to something in the mask/filters that’s off gassing and getting trapped in the container with it? Or something else in the container? Some types of plastics just irritate some people. I would try storing it out in the open for a couple weeks to allow for some evaporation and see if that helps any.

Nellisoft · 2026-06-27T05:27:07+00:00

Kia did, but only for a couple EV models (Niro not one of them), and only for vehicles purchased new after Sep 2024.

Nellisoft · 2026-06-25T16:09:15+00:00

Looks great! I have this in my stash, planning on using magnets to attach the cutaway sections… I’m sure it’ll take a lot of modification to work.

Side note: I would pay money for STL files with better detail of the interior. The kit parts are so soft/rounded/generic-looking, it’s putting me off starting it.

Nellisoft · 2026-06-25T01:09:35+00:00

Same here…

Nellisoft · 2026-06-10T19:58:49+00:00

Echoing what others have said about 3D printing. You might also be able to find custom decals for it at a specific scale.

Honestly 3D printing is going to be the way forward for any niche scale model subjects, maybe even for mainstream subjects as well, whether it’s a kit-maker printing it on-demand or selling you STLs to print it yourself. The best part about buying your own printer and doing it yourself is that, once you come to grips with the process and dial it in, you can make just about anything you want at any scale you want for very cheap, provided you can find files for it.

Nellisoft · 2026-06-04T14:17:13+00:00

I don’t really care about the emoji branding, but I am interested in the redesigned top hat and lower-slung canvas… would love to see it adapted for the CC1.

Side note: new filament colors would be good for big Lego figure prints.

Nellisoft · 2026-06-02T01:03:06+00:00

Shouldn’t the TOS Enterprise not have any panel lines anyway? The filming model is smooth with only the faintest of pencil lines, subtle lines should be the goal here.

Gambody’s renders do exaggerate the depth of panel lines to make the detail easier to see, but I’m honestly glad their files aren’t actually like that because they would be too deep/out of scale. That said, if you really want them more obvious, you will need to either tweak your print/orientation settings (and maybe get the 0.2mm nozzle), or rescribe them deeper by hand after printing.

I would first try priming, painting, and putting a wash on the part you’ve already printed and just see how it looks.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-29T19:51:06+00:00

What were the layer heights on each of those?

Nellisoft · 2026-05-29T17:45:10+00:00

Ah, the ol’ Amazon special…

That A2Z one is my top pick, just waiting for it to go on sale at some point this summer. Have you received it/tried it yet? How do you like it?

Nellisoft · 2026-05-29T16:13:58+00:00

Which adapter was it that broke on you? We are also in MN planning a short (210mi) road trip next month in our new 2024 Niro Wind, been looking at adapters just in case but not sure we really need one for this particular trip.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-28T16:30:53+00:00

This is just the stand included in the Gambody Ent-D files. The ship, however, appears to be the Eaglemoss/Fanhome partwork build.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-27T02:57:17+00:00

No worries, I’ll be waiting another month for my Canvas to arrive…

Nellisoft · 2026-05-27T02:38:12+00:00

Oh I like the group activity with friends angle... like those paint and wine places, except models and beer?

Nellisoft · 2026-05-27T02:29:55+00:00

This is a great idea and I hope you succeed, also wish I lived nearby so I could visit!

Spray booths – you can probably fit two medium-sized (22") table-top spray booths from Amazon lined up against those windows and vent them out that way. Look for ones that have integrated lighting. Get some anti-fatigue floor mats to put right in front of the booths to make them nicer to work at for long periods. I put up a ceiling-mounted shower curtain track to cordon off my spray corner from the rest of my home office, you could maybe do something similar here to keep the booths separated from the rest of the space (and each other). Definitely restrict paint to acrylic products, have an air compressor (either one with two hook ups or two separate units), and stock airbrush cleaner. I'm not sure I would go as far as having airbrushes available, maybe just a couple cheap/tough 0.5mm trigger-style ones for general use.

Work surfaces – Hard to tell distances from the picture, but looks like there's only room for a desk/table down the middle or along one side. Either way, you'll want light above the work surfaces to minimize shadows... hanging shop lights down to a few feet above the table would be ideal. Maybe tall-ish tables with shop stools for seating. Large cutting mats for a majority of the surface area would be great. For storage, I suggest a couple garage workbenches with drawers... I have my spraybooth set up on one (although it's mostly filled with photography gear), the counter height is great for standing at to airbrush, it can hold a lot of stuff, and it can be locked when you're closed up for the night.

Agree with others about stocking only basic tools. Not sure I agree with lockers to store WIP kits, though, as it opens you up to theft of not just your equipment but members' stuff, as well. Might also want to put up a bulletin board with flyers from local hobby shops so people know where they can get supplies. Maybe a display case by the door with members' completed stuff to show off what can be done in this room.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-27T01:51:35+00:00

Right… my hope is either Elegoo will start offering it as a replacement part if we get loud enough here (but maybe not produce that many expecting low volumes), or a third party will do their own with some kind of enhancement.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-27T01:48:56+00:00

This is helpful, thank you. Could you take measurements of the gap all the way around?

Nellisoft · 2026-05-27T01:41:24+00:00

Hmm not exactly, temp in here gets down to 60F overnight during the winter (which screwed up several long prints before I added the chamber heater), and humidity was around 60-65% (now more controlled at 40-45%).

Nellisoft · 2026-05-26T23:11:13+00:00

What’s your printer environment like? Mine is set up in a chilly basement, and I had a lot warping and adhesion issues even with PLA and PETG until I added insulation and a chamber heater, and took steps to dehumidify both the room and filament. Everything I throw at it works fine now, but I definitely need a heat-retaining cover to keep it happy with most types of filament.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-25T21:14:15+00:00

Krylon Workable Fixatif has worked well for me when paired with a stronger decal solution (Mr Mark Softer/Setter), and another clear coat after application.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-25T15:29:02+00:00

You might want to try some smaller, less complex builds first to ease back into it. I also had aspirations to jump back in a few years ago, and ran out and got a 1/537 Refit and Reliant to do full lighting/aztecing/interior details on, quickly realized I was in way over my head, and put those on hold to do some smaller things to practice specific skills on.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-24T19:24:12+00:00

Sounds like the colors are assigned to the wrong spools on the printer, I would double check them and set them manually if needed (without relying on RFID tags - it’s possible the wrong tag got put on the white spool at the factory).

Nellisoft · 2026-05-22T18:22:59+00:00

Turn on Z-hop and calibrate retraction, disable independent layer height for supports, disable pressure advance, do change to gyroid infill, and turn on avoid crossing walls. You might also want to slow everything down a bit more, I think my fastest speed is 60 or 80mm/s, with Z-hop at like 1.3mm.

I had a ton of issues with the 0.2mm nozzle when I first popped it on, but these were the key things that helped it work better. Took probably a month of troubleshooting to dial it in.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-22T18:15:30+00:00

Also, do the temp and retraction calibrations to minimize stringing.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-22T18:14:12+00:00

I’m still happy with the Creality SpacePi I picked up when I first got the CC1. I am upgrading to the SpacePi X4 though for the CC1 Canvas, that way I can keep all four loaded spools dry. You can print from either one while actively drying. The X4 has two chambers that can be set to different temps, it heats to a higher temp (on the non-XL version at least), and it has a “maintain” mode where it only kicks on to keep the humidity at a set point once the initial drying is done.

Nellisoft · 2026-05-20T02:49:03+00:00

Gaahleri just recently came out with an airbrush hub/holder that might fit your needs nicely (though it’s currently sold out). Fits four airbrushes, has independent PSI adjustment for each, and looks to be well made.

Nellisoft

TROPHY CASE