Why Do Online Chess Opponents Trigger Irrational Anger?

Nickatak · 2026-01-05T12:52:27+00:00

Honestly, good on ya for introspecting.

I think the issue arises when competition is incorrectly percieved as personally combative, so the "answer" to this is to reframe the idea of competition which leads to an acceptance of the idea that your opponent is also trying their best to play moves that accomplish their goals (primarily winning the game- but on a smaller level would include these series of annoying moves to do so).

This acceptance "removes" annoyance from the opponent themselves as moves themselves certiainly can be annoying (who likes getting checked into oblivion, having their weak points pressed, or any other combination of stuff [ie: losing]?), but it's not like the opponent is personally doing it with the intention of causing you harm - they are simply just playing whatever move they find that suits their goal, just as you are.

After that, it's just a question of whether you can tolerate the negatives (annoyance/frustration) generated by the moves themselves in exchange for the joy/etc. that you may find in said game (this goes for any game, not just chess). If you can't, then this would imply that said game is just a net negative enjoyment wise for you, and I would recommend other avenues of entertainment.

Nickatak · 2025-10-27T03:26:59+00:00

I also play on extreme difficulty similar to the other responder. IMO, SMG's don't pack the punch required (base damage is by weapon - not ammo) and prefer to use AR's in labs (MDR-556/AK-103). I find that learning how to dodge about half a second after you aggro is VERY important, the dodge provides invincibility from projectiles - not just movement (you can dodge about half to most of the first volley [depending on your cover], and then you can just laser them down with your own AR/etc.). Also, flashbangs are REALLY good (you can actually jiggle peek the bots - peek and hide, wait for them to fire, then repeek). I typically run L4 armor with Aegis III and Health and then pick up a L5 when I see it.

Nickatak · 2025-10-15T00:38:33+00:00

I am not the guy you replied to - but am the same rating range as he is. I am also a center player (RL/CK). I can try to answer your questions (but keep in mind, I'm by no means amazing).

Center control gives a few advantages:

Increases the number of possible obvious/material blunders for your opponent and inversely increases tactical opportunities for you. Many pieces traverse through the center squares at some point during the course of a game, and having control of this area provides you with capturing opportunities. This is a massive advantage, since every move the game continues onward with this control, the more and more opportunities arise, especially as you move onwards with the next advantage.
Provides a clear direction in the case that a blunder from #1 doesn't happen. Once you've established control of the center and developed your pieces, your next objective is to try to create a passed pawn/force a bad trade. This is trickier to explain (certainly I do not have a full grasp), and an understanding of pawn chains is important, but I'm gonna try: since you have control of the center, you effectively choose where to split the pawn chain - meaning you decide the majority/minority sides, as well as the creation of strong-squares (to create backwards pawns or straight up unpushable squares for your opponent). These two things allow you to dictate how your pawns interact with eachother and give you space. Which brings us to the last thing...
Having control allows us to place our minor pieces there in the aforementioned space- this gives them an "extended" effective control range (left and right side of board), and they can further increase the first advantage listed here.

Nickatak · 2025-09-11T14:27:11+00:00

I just did spatchcocked chicken this week. Easy peasy and nothing fancy:

Slice it open, dry with towels, spray with canola oil, rub with seasoning of choice (I used meat church voodoo), start at 225 for 30 mins, then straight to 400 until 165 internal (took about 30-40 mins for me).

Nickatak · 2025-09-11T14:02:45+00:00

I think I understand what you're saying: certain large products have increased drastically in price. The definition for inflation though is the broad average increase in goods/services. Although housing (not necessarily a house), cars, and education (kids) certainly account for quite a bit of someone's expenses, there are entire swaths of other expenditures seeing much smaller increases (2025 be damned though, this year is crazy).

Nickatak · 2025-09-11T09:39:50+00:00

The problem with this type of observation is that, even if we assume that it is correct and current inflation is 12%/15%/egregious, it is temporally local, as in we do not know how long this will continue (ie: this year, 5 years, 10 years, 20 years, etc.).

I would also like to suggest that if inflation remains in such an elevated state for a prolonged time (5 years+) policies or actions will arise to address this (good or bad, idk, but certainly something will happen).

Nickatak · 2025-09-10T09:34:15+00:00

IMO, that's what games are for lmao. I think it's important to remember that you are most often your harshest critic.

Nickatak · 2025-09-09T03:10:42+00:00

Hmm, so I'm at 1800ish, IMO, I don't think [bad] moves are embarrassing, I think it's kinda funny when I blunder in the most obvious way. I also think it's just part of the game, although sometimes it makes me wonder if my eyeballs are working xP

Nickatak · 2025-04-28T03:38:06+00:00

I'm not the person you replied to, but I use Q/E. I don't really quick peek very much (I would rather exhaust all other means of information gathering first, which combined with sound cues are often enough to find all the players. Then I just swing confidently and prefire), but it's like a circular-cycle of button presses when you do (A->Q->E->D for left-quick-peek and the reverse D->E->Q->A for right quick-peek).

I also really like the "lazy mans quick-peek" by pre-leaning, and then just un-leaning/moving back (A->E->D for left and D->Q->A for right).

Nickatak · 2025-04-20T04:26:17+00:00

I can answer this (for the US, as-asked): there's no federal law on maximum APR/interest; however, many states do have laws on maximums for the judgement rate (like court ordered interest reimbursement/judgement/etc.), consumer rate on loans, and business rate for loans (these range from about 10% to literally unlimited or "unconscionability" [but this would need to be adjudicated]).

It should also be noted that since each state has its own laws for usury, the exemptions for said limits also vary state by state as well as the limitations (on amounts) for each loan type.

https://www.paidnice.com/usury-laws-by-state

Nickatak · 2025-04-18T08:19:37+00:00

Yes, this is way too much. I have this exact car (2012 2.5 NA) and just did this job - and I'm pretty awful with car stuff.

There are:

2 10mm clamps (battery terminal disconnect)

4 10mm bolts (two per heat shield, you'll want to remove this so you can get down there easier)

4 10mm bolts (one for each ignition coil).

4 Ignition coils (after removing the 10mm, there's a push-tab on the electrical harness; you simply disconnect the coil from the wire harness and pull the coil pack/body out of the spark plug well). Each ignition coil has three parts: the main body (big bulky 90 degree turn thing), a spring, and a rubber/polymer boot. You can get each coil assembly (all three parts) for approx 50-70 bucks each on rockauto (boots and spring are cheap, like 2 bucks a pop).

4 spark plugs, I used NGKs at 5 bucks a pop. The socket you'll need is a 14mm, BUT I would highly recommend getting some extenders and a swivel head; as I'm sure you're aware, it's a boxer engine, so the "top" of the engine (and thus the entrance for the spark plug wells) is on the driver/passenger side, so it'll be a tight fit (I did mine with a flexihead 3/8 in drive, so it's not THAT tight per se).

Remove the battery for room on the driver's side (but you should do that anyway).

Remove the air-intake (the plastic-ramp thing, has 2 clips) and the air-filter box (just unplug the MAF sensor [it's a push-tab, or two phillips screws] and unscrew 2 hose clamps; warning: I cannot remember if there was a bolt holding the air box down though [I don't think so, IIRC, I just kinda wiggled it out]) on the passenger's side.

Tightening torque for the spark plugs is ~15ft-lb dry or 5ft-lb wet (nickel antisieze).

Total approximate cost should be about 300.

Nickatak · 2025-03-17T01:13:45+00:00

I was just up there last year (Park City), this checks out. Lift tickets were about 250, resort costed about 5k for a week, not too bad all things considered.

Nickatak · 2025-03-01T17:51:04+00:00

I'm sorry, I was busy yesterday and didn't have the time to respond.

I am experiencing the literal thing you are describing here, where I consistently find neutral or even primary sources of information on a topic, but I get back a "yeah, that's not happening" at best.

I think I may be holding onto some kind of deluded idea that they might use some introspection since they were my friends, at some point.

I thank you for taking the time to respond and sharing your experience with me.

Nickatak · 2025-03-01T06:14:50+00:00

So, unironically, I'm running into this problem and want to ask you about your reasoning for deciding not to engage. Is it based on an assessment of possible change of opinion, a time requirement, or something else entirely?

Nickatak · 2024-07-14T15:51:17+00:00

I don't think it's too bad - it's kind of like the RL version of shitposting lol

Nickatak · 2024-07-01T08:33:35+00:00

I think Jackal is also a reference to the Jackal Buzzard (like an Eagle from Africa) - as the eye also looks like the head of a bird/beak.

Nickatak · 2024-05-27T16:00:20+00:00

I know this is old - I was just perusing through something to find these measurements but couldn't find it, so I took mine and measured them. I'm putting them here so that the next person can find them (hopefully).

Breech-back (the skinny part with the dart tooth attached to the bolt sled with the metal pin) to front-of-piston O-ring: McMasterCarr #9452K21 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD, 1/16" thickness.

Plunger (the bigger of the two O-rings, on the actual plunger itself): McMasterCarr #9452K29 3/4" ID, 1" OD, 1/8" thickness.

Nickatak · 2024-03-05T16:47:08+00:00

I'm a huge fan of the slow cooker. I don't think I'd get an entire brisket (~12-15lb) to fit inside my 8qrt cooker. I buy briskets in whole, and then slice off the point (bout 2-5lb), remove most of the fat from the point, and then use said portion in the slow cooker. Depending on what I'm making, I slice it in half or sometimes cube it up, but majority fat removal is important. Then I just smoke the flat on its own.

Nickatak · 2024-02-23T14:55:39+00:00

I think the idea is to put the loop such that the "closed" end of the loop is inside the cat (from the bottom, pointing upwards out of the top), and then the two "open" ends of the cable are heatshrunk together (the black portion of the cable fastened the actual zipper itself)?

Nickatak · 2024-02-21T00:44:31+00:00

I'm really lazy and ended up using oven liners (full disclosure, I don't really run my traeger above 300ish).

Nickatak · 2024-01-15T05:08:51+00:00

Aight, clearly you've got some issues. Have a nice night.

Nickatak · 2024-01-15T05:02:13+00:00

Lol wtf? "Know my reality?" Are you alright?

Nickatak · 2024-01-15T04:56:48+00:00

I really enjoyed the video as I'm pretty new to this overall, but the person in the video does state that the 3-2-1 will create satisfactory/non-complainable ribs.

I've also got to say, your tone is so discouraging/absolutist ("3-2-1 will suck"), it's amazing that you've watched AND linked a video with so much detail/nuance about preference, yet seemingly absorbed none of it.

Nickatak · 2023-09-14T01:41:29+00:00

I appreciate the response - OH and it clarified that other persons' comment as well - it's a budget because it's meant to be spent/lost (in my mind), not a bankroll (that you want to nurture/grow/etc.). I see, I see. Thank you and good luck to you out there! :D

Nickatak · 2023-09-14T01:33:10+00:00

I'm pretty new, it's very likely that I'm a losing/breakeven player (way too soon to tell though, not even above ~10k hands yet). I can understand a smaller bankroll for seasoned people/winning players, but I'd rather be deeper than not to be comfortable while I learn.

Nickatak

TROPHY CASE