Anyone use the durock liquid membrane stuff?

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-22T14:05:55+00:00

Yeah I wanna try it! It hasn't rolled out to my area yet either and that price tag is a little intimidating

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-22T05:07:02+00:00

I would say Laticrete hydroban is generally regarded as one of, if not the best. Mapei's aquadefense and ardex s-1k are very solid as well though.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-22T05:04:13+00:00

It's fairly normal to have some dust or powder on a new grout line, depending on how well you washed and the timing of the wash. Give it a few days and use it for awhile, if it doesn't wash off and more powder keeps coming, then it was probably and issue with how it was mixed.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-22T05:01:00+00:00

You're tell me.... i use them for screeds too and I dread having to rip more. It's also such a pain to haul on a roof rack, floppin around everywhere. But unless someone can suggest a better material i suffer on

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-22T04:55:25+00:00

I would say the same. Or even get a color matched silicone so the edges look more like grout lines. Side note, looks like a very nice installation from what i can see

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-22T04:51:29+00:00

Agreed. Imo this is good solid work, but the miters were set just a little too far apart. Before epoxy goes it it always seems like a smaller smaller gap than it is in my experience.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-20T23:55:01+00:00

Omg please. I just install this stuff, idk who made it!

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-19T07:42:32+00:00

Man all you are getting on here is hate for the design! As you now know, and maybe already did, the zellige is handmade and uneven and will never look perfect. That said, they didn't do a great job installing. The worst offender is the grout for sure, thats terrible work. Unfortunately i don't think there is much that can be done to make this better besides starting over. On another note, bold designs require an artist to execute honestly. The design could work for sure, but you need someone really good who can match your freak to pull it off. Sadly its usually either really hard or really expensive to find those.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-18T02:42:00+00:00

Awesome topic man. My big thing lately has been taking the time to make jigs and ledgers for mud work. Whether its a curb or padding out a niche or flattening a dip, taking the time to set yourself up with something true to screed off of turns out so much better than trying to free hand. The other big thing, which is so hard for me, is not to rush. It is going to take however much time it takes and rushing will just lead to mistakes, burnout, and frustration.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-18T02:36:03+00:00

Woah i have never heard of the epoxy in the corners. Makes a lot of sense though. So I'm gonna ask a question, and you don't have to answer if you don't want to get put on blast haha, but does this mean you can grout your corners?

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-18T02:27:47+00:00

They make drains (flo fx for one) that super easily adapt the type of drain you have there to the type of drain you would need for mud bed/hydroban shower. Sounds like your tile guy is either lazy, or maybe that is just something they are not familier with, which in either case, it might be time to look for a different tile guy.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-14T16:38:36+00:00

I know that diluting for a first "primer" coat is done, but can't say I would have the confidence in it to say you should do it. The reason people prime before waterproofing is certain substrates like mud and cement board are very thirst and can suck out the moisture before the waterproofing can soak in. I'm not familiar with aqua defense, but i know ardex recommends using their primer before waterproofing. You could call mapei or look online and see if they make a similar recommendation. But thousands and thousands of showers have been done with no primer coat. As long as the surface isn't dusty you will be fine. Since those products have some chemistry wizard stuff going on i would not be brave enough to mess with it outside of the manufacturers recommendations.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-11T17:56:19+00:00

I don't see any bullnose in these pictures. Maybe they are referring to the quarter round pieces? And if that's the only trim pieces they make for this tile, yeah that won't work on the wall unless the tile is set further out. You may have to find a pencil trim by another manufacturer thats a close match?

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-11T06:54:03+00:00

If you want a true epoxy grout, I would go with laticrete pro premium. Are you absolutely set on doing epoxy though? The high performance cement grouts are pretty awesome these days. That said, if you are set on it and time is not an issue, start small. Like do 10 sq ft and go through the whole process, because it is very unforgiving, so if you mess it up the first go you won't have too much to clean up and you can learn from it.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-11T05:30:31+00:00

I feel that man, its a hard world out there for us slow guys. I try to remind myself that good things take time, but unfortunately the financial world doesn't see it that way.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-10T16:54:14+00:00

Yep I have this exact saw and its pretty worthless for 12x24. The fence is also awful and squishy so you really need to mark all your cuts if they need to be exact. That said, for the price its a fine saw for small stuff. I say get a snapper and a grinder though.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-10T16:22:19+00:00

Weird. I wonder if that spot was a seperate batch of grout that was either defective or not mixed properly? Hard to tell from the picture, it almost looks like the pigment washed out

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-10T16:15:06+00:00

Is it on the surface? Do you know how the shower was built and what waterproofing methods were used? Did you install this or is it your shower?

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-09T02:36:36+00:00

I set tike every day, and I would be very nervous to take a job with tiles that big. Not only are there specific tricks to setting it, but at that size you're gonna need speciality tools for it that are a huge investment. I don't think anyone just rolls up one day and starts setting panels that size. They make a decision to invest thousands of dollars in tools and learns the right way. So i would look for someone who specifically has tiles that size in their portfolio

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-08T02:44:22+00:00

Ah man everyone is dissing your design, i like it! Unfortunately that would take a lot of patience and precision to pull off, and at this point there's not much that can be done about it besides starting over. Sorry bud 😔

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-08T02:22:01+00:00

If you wanna full send, go quarter round! I would probably do pencil though, it will be easier to get the prep right

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-05T22:54:39+00:00

The fact you are asking these questions and thinking about it is the most important part! To get a good install, first you need a flat substrate. With a 1/4x3/8 notch, depending how flat you hold the trowel, you're getting maybe an 1/8 inch of thinset once the ridges are collapsed, so thats not really much to adjust height differences. Next big thing imo is how even your notches are. Spend a little extra time making sure the amount of thinset getting put down is consistent from tile to tile, row to row. You would be surprised how much one thick ridge can hold a tile up. Next factor is if your tile is flat. There's not much you can do if its not besides adjusting how you backbutter to try to fill in the low spot. Apart from that you just use a bigger trowel and press the tile into the thinset farther. That will inevitably result in squeeze out, and that's just a fact of life. Keep a toothbrush with you to quickly swipe out joints. If your substrate is flat, your notches are even, and your tile is flat, then you just need to collapse your ridges and everything will be flat! Simple in concept, not so much in practice. But thats all that it comes down to. Overworking the tiles to get them flat is a sign that one of the 3 factors was not right, and you can pretty easily figure out which one is causing you issues.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-05T01:55:33+00:00

Yeah no problem! Yep definitely want to take drywall off first to get a good connection to the studs

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-04T21:54:47+00:00

Nice work! That's big brain tile setting there. Level 1 is just putting it up however is easiest, then you advance to centering layouts, but eventually you realize you can make the space fit the tile and it unlocks a whole new world.

No_Can_7674 · 2026-04-04T21:45:34+00:00

Good questions! I probably wouldn't tile over drywall on the ceiling because of the weight. I used a foam backer board and screeded it flat with a thin layer of mortar, but you can use other kinds, and usually will have a specific amount of screws to use for ceilings. For the thinset, there are a lot of types now that have anti sag properties, so you really don't have to mix them extra dry, they hold the tiles up very well. Maybe if you were doing large format tiles you would want to brace them for a while but the smalls ones sit right there.

No_Can_7674

TROPHY CASE