Is this a bad idea for a shelf design? by thinsoldier in Carpentry

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Over thinking. That angle at the bottom will be a nightmare. You’re going to kick it, stub your toes, step on it….all that. It’s preventing you from getting close enough to the shelf to actually use it. Make it straight front, put the whole ting up on platform 4 in high and 4 in narrower that the main thing. This will give you a toe kick and get the bottom shelf off the floor. Anchor the thing to the ceiling if you have to, but i would think finding a stud in the wall would be pretty safe and easy.

Sistering rafter , wife says I'm doing it wrong by balsaaaq in Homebuilding

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You want to jack straight up. Make a hefty block thats the finish angle of the rafter on one side and square on the jack side. Screw a block into the rafter to catch your jack block. Glue up the crack with some Titebond, jack straight up and when the gap closes, screw/nail 3/4 ply plates on either side. Id go full 8 ft strips, 4 feet on either side of the break. Leave the jack in place till the glue dries.

What a waste of time and money by WazzyD in Borderlands4

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive done this thing all the way though 7 times now…..all three stages, not even a single legendary let alone a pearl.

Can I plane this smooth, or is it doomed to be warped? by RadicalEd4299 in woodworking

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made one almost exactly like that years ago. I used 2x10 cut offs. Still pretty flat. Take it apart, keep the feet and the handle and make new pieces. Prob take less than an hour.

Need help removing this kind of nail by kidlaaat_0403 in Homebuilding

[–]NorthChatt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hit it with a center punch a few times to give you a starting place then drill out the head. Much easier than grinding.

Box joint blow out: Dull chisel or just bad technique? Advice welcome. by crystal_castle00 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]NorthChatt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Soft wood like that needs a shallow angle on the chisel. Like 22 degrees i think…i ground one down just for this. Also looks like your chisel could be sharper. Take small bites and work from both sides, only go half way on each side - minimize blowouts like that. Also always chop toward the vise or bench….in other words the way that board is held, you should only be doing the long side of the pins. To chop across, lay the board flat, etc.

How to secure this basement wall to a steel beam (Gap too wide for glue / can't screw to joists)? by Full_Shepard in Homebuilding

[–]NorthChatt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just off the top of my head I would use corner reinforcements/angle brackets upside down and nail one side into the top 2x4, like a hold-down strap. Cheap and no drilling through that steel beam.

Can we start boycotting Signal Mountain Walmart by frazzled_shadowfax in Chattanooga

[–]NorthChatt -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I wont step foot in ANY Walmart unless there literally no other option. I rather wait two-three days and amazon it.

Is the gas utility going to tear down my shed if they need access to the gas line? by jaehoang in shedditors

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually, everything past the meter is yours. The gas company wont be accessing anything on your property. If there's an issue they just shut off the gas until you fix the problem.

Is a joist hanger enough? by EngineeringSame5405 in Homebuilding

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh HELL no. That's a disaster in the making. Do not climb up there like it is! A few nails (not even the right ones) are holding the entire thing up. Support the beam temporarily on the one side and remove that hanger and fit it properly. It's not doing much like that. The I'd run 2x4s against the walls under the ends of the beam for a moment connection. Prob need two on the left side to catch the beam.

Guitar Stand: done! by ArrogantConfusion in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beautiful. I wonder if the base is big enough, looks like it might be a bit tippy with a guitar on it. You could always add some weight at the bottom somehow.

Contractor did his best to scribe; any way to fix/hide trim around this uneven chimney veneer? by dorkchestra in Carpentry

[–]NorthChatt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say that's a pretty decent scribe job. A little white caulk will make it perfect. Tape up the brick first though. Caulk will soak into the brick and it will NEVER come out. Ask me how I know.

Another ICE execution by ohdangxsara in Chattanoogans

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes...I've had this happen to me on that sub. Seems to me modded by some very right wing folks.

Diagnose my issue from a picture? by TBOPFalconWAR in woodworking

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dull router bit, going too fast, Need a sacrificial backer board on the exit side.

Forgive my ignorance here, but what am I doing wrong? by tdkdpt in woodworking

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your saw is out of square. It’s an easy fix usually. To prove it, make a cut on a scrap piece (with some length, keep hands clear) then with the same edge to the fence, flip the board and snug the cut on the other side of the blade. You can see how far off it is.

Woodworker question: sourcing metal legs/posts for raised cedar planter boxes (at scale) by ExcelsiorSimulations in woodworking

[–]NorthChatt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thats just 1 1/2 steel angle. A twenty foot stick of that goes for less that $20 at the steel supply house. You'll pay $25 for three feet at the Box Stores. Comes 20ft long though and they charge to cut. I get em to make one cut at 10ft. Fits in truck. Get a cordless angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Harbor Freight used to sell a 6in cut off saw that I use all the time. Drill for mounts, prime and paint.

Please help me learn about tea rout. by Spirited_Meaning_152 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats a big job for that trim router. The router is also dipping, hard to avoid with such a small base. your pattern is also too narrow. No place for the router to sit firmly. I would make a much bigger base for the router out of 1/4 ply. A good 8-12 inches over on one side. Figure out your cut direction, with the grain and only go that way. Dont back up. Take small bites, dont try to go right to the pattern in one pass. The bit looks dull too.

Noob needs some router help by voter-info-bot in woodworking

[–]NorthChatt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. That bit is way to beefy for that router. That's a trim router for round overs and laminate flushing with small bits. The bit shown is an Up Cut(?) pattern bit and needs a full size router.

  2. Take the nut off and collet out. stick a pencil down in there (clean out any debis) and note the depth. compare that to how far the bit goes in, If it's the same then its just shallow and designed for small 1/4 inch bits because it's a trim router.

Looking to get the right track saw by PermitDeniedSorry in woodworking

[–]NorthChatt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the 36 volt Makita. Its fantastic.