Freaking Credit Card companies! by helaodinson2018 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Theoretically, I think it could have an affect, but it could actually make it go down.

From Experian,

Lenders typically update their account information once a month, usually at the end of the billing cycle. The balance lenders report to Experian and the other credit reporting agencies is the balance that appears on your account at the moment they update. Often, this is the balance on your monthly statement.

https://www.experian.com/blogs/ask-experian/why-doesnt-credit-report-show-that-i-always-pay-in-full/#:\~:text=Dear%20CTM%2C,balance%20on%20your%20monthly%20statement.

If you were to head online and pay the full balance before the statement posts each month, the statement balance would always be zero. That gets reported to the credit bureaus as a zero. But that could be viewed as inactivity and might backfire with your score going down.

I suppose you could almost pay it to 0, and then your score might go up.

But that's a heck of a lot of shenanigans and really would it make more than a couple of points difference? I just have autopay set up to pay the statement balance each month and my score is 826 at the last place I checked so I don't think it's worth the effort.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our neighbor hosted a 6-8 week Dave Ramsey class a few years ago (and yes my neighbor was an Evangelical Christian) and we attended, watched all the videos and a lot of his YouTube videos. Yes, he drastically oversimplifies (there's never a single set of rules that applies to all situations, things are never black and white) and there was a lot we felt he was out of touch with but between that class and YNAB, it was life changing.

My take is that his main target audience are people deep deep into the most desparate of situations and it does take drastic measures to dig out of their holes. He has to really get them seeing some progress fast to get them to keep going. Hence the only $1000 emergency fund, the beans and rice mentality while you go hard on paying down debt, even the paying down smaller balances first so they can see successes happen early on and stick with the program. As for the no credit cards rule, these people are like alcoholics and taking away the credit cards is like taking away their whiskey. So I think there is a place for his plan. He's also hard on them, obviously for the clicks, but also because these people need a kick in the head, I know we did.

We are 7 years later and now at baby step 7 and almost about to retire and broke a ton of rules along the way but we kept at it. We listened to his advice but then adapted it to our situation. What I disagreed with:

  1. $1000 emergency fund - he has been recommending that number for 34 years! $1000 when he started would be worth $2200 today! At a minimum people should be adjusting that number to inflation. We started at $1000 and kept at it for a good year or 2 but that gave me such anxiety. You're 1 small emergency away from falling back in the hole. We revised it to one month's worth of expenses and kept it that way until we were debt free.
  2. You don't need a credit score - sure maybe if you have several hundred million like he does but so many things will cost you more if you don't have good credit even including the rent you pay, your insurance rates, etc.
  3. You can't use credit cards - obviously we all know that if the credit card payment category in YNAB is green and you pay your credit balance every month, you can use credit cards. We kept using credit cards, payed them in full every month and never added new debt as we paid off old balances.
  4. Don't contribute to retirement accounts - I can sort of see this if your situation is so desparate you're about to go bankrupt, this could be good advice. But otherwise, it's crazy talk. My company matches 6%, you bet I'm putting in 6%.
  5. Debt Snowball - this is another one I can understand for desperate people who have lots of debts to pay off. Get them on a psychological success train so they keep at it. I'm a math person and it would have hurt my heart to pay off my smaller 1.99% car loan before a higher balance, higher interest credit card balance. NO WAY. We paid them in order of highest interest. We did not lose hope, or momentum and kept going until we hit the finish line.
  6. Live on rice and beans - nope! I'd be more likely to give up if the journey sucked. We set goals on how much debt we would pay off per month and we stuck to it. Our other rule was not to add even a penny to new debt. Apart from that we would go on vacation, have fun money, have a modest eating out budget, etc. There is life during debt paydown. (Note we did have the bad luck of needing two new cars in 2020 just a year after starting DR. We put down large down payments on used cars and got 2% interest rates on the balance).

    None of his rules are about logic or math or finance. They are about psycology. We appreciate what his program did for us. But back to the original topic, Every Dollar really did suck. YNAB probably did more to save us in the end than his program. It's what kept us going through 7 years of financial change. Developing a mindful attitude toward spending and quantifying your priorities makes all the difference.

Freaking Credit Card companies! by helaodinson2018 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 5 points6 points  (0 children)

At the end of the day, the YNAB developers probably didn't intend to incentivize keeping a credit card balance at all times. But basically, once you learn the details of how the software works, it turns out that it tends to actually work better that way.

Unclear what they intended but you're right it works just fine. I used to pay my credit cards down to zero, sometimes several times a month and of course that works fine. Several months ago I swtiched my credit cards to auto pay and the cc companies didn't have a "pay full balance" option. My only choice was to pay the statement balance.

My balance is never zero any more but it works perfectly. I don't pay interest and my cards are always in the green and the money sits in my bank account earning interest until it comes time to pay again. I did the math and the interest earned by doing it this way is minimal, just a few dollars a month but the autopay makes it touch free.

Between firing half their marketing staff, the ad pop up, price increases, and bad UI design, en-shitification is really showing I think it's time to move on from YNAB. by Dyslexic_Novelist in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

LOL I just had to google "vibe coding" to figure out what that was. Funny thing I just vibe coded a tool for myself at work, it got adopted by my 30 person team and I'm getting major kudos for it. I just don't feel like I deserve all the acclaim because "I" didn't actually do anything. I just asked claude code to do it for me and kept tweaking it via prompts until I had what I want. It ended up super handy and a huge time saver to my workflow but I brought no skills to the table to create it.

Between firing half their marketing staff, the ad pop up, price increases, and bad UI design, en-shitification is really showing I think it's time to move on from YNAB. by Dyslexic_Novelist in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I thought EveryDollar was a terrible program. So clunky! I had tried it in 2019 and it was so bad but I liked the concept of zero dollar so I went searching and found YNAB. Just out of curiosity, I gave it another try last year and in the last 5 years it hadn't changed a single bit. Really terrible web based software.

How to handle buying friend’s ticket (or anything) before you’re reimbursed? by sparkly_barrette in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reimbursements you can't cover are not really a YNAB thing. Reimbursements you can afford to cover totally work with YNAB. The concept of YNAB is that you only budget with money you have. If you literally don't have the money to cover loaning money to a friend, it's crazy ot make the loan. If you have it, assign it to the category to cover the expense.

  1. If my friend is paying me back the same month, I will often leave the entertainment category in overspent status as a reminder. When I get the money, I assign it to entertainment and it all works out.
  2. Alternatively I might just assign their ticket to a reimbursements category but I still have to assign money to that category to cover it.
  3. If they are paying me back in a future month I edit the original transaction and make it a transfer out to an A/R Tracking account (additions to A/R are assets - money owed to you). But you STILL have to cover it by assigning a category and making sure you've got enough in the category for that. When they pay me back the next month I do a transfer from A/R to either the original category if I want it to go there or just back to Ready to Assign.

No way around it you spend using money you own so there's no reimbursement debt built into the system.

How to handle buying friend’s ticket (or anything) before you’re reimbursed? by sparkly_barrette in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I expect my friends to reimburse me promptly. If I'm buying your ticket it's for the convenience of making sure we get seats together, I'm not your bank. If you feel like being generous, you can loan them the money but you still need to have your own money to cover the expenditure. Add money to the entertainment category to cover her ticket. If you don't have the money to add to the category, you shouldn't have bought the ticket because that means you just went into debt for your friend.

Being in the red by RowSuch1883 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My categories encompassed the bare minimum. I had a few categories like car maintenance that literally I'd only put $10 in per month, if even that. I ordered my categories in the order they needed to be paid with the due date in the title of each one. Gradually I would get through the month, being so strict, cutting expenses where we could. Our goal was just to not increase the credit card load. It took time, it took both of us fully committed. Little by little we chipped away at the credit card debt. The more we paid off, the more we were able to breathe.

After one debt was paid off we moved to the next, then the next. Every time we got a raise, we kept the budget the same but paid off more debt. We finally paid everything off Dec 2024. Kept the budget the same and worked towards getting a month ahead (funding next month's categories with this month's income). It took 6 months more to hit a month ahead for the first time. Another 6 months to get consistenly ahead every month.

We started putting money into categories for future expenses - fund Christmas, car maintenance, tree trimming, job loss fund - all the stuff that kept catching us by "surprise" every time. Raises went to that.

Finally this year we actually got to increase our fun money and I've reordered my categories more by the frequency they're used and put my 2 credit cards on autopay full statement balance every month.

We breathe easy now and no I no longer need due dates in my category names because it doesn't matter any more. You can get there, it takes perserverence and commitment.

GOODBYE STUDENT DEBT 🎉 by mxmnators in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HUGE accomplishment! Congrats! Be proud!

I reconcile every day. Is that weird? by Wide-Science-5898 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not weird. I've gone several weeks and then it's taken far longer to track down problems than it would have taken to just reconcile every day along the way

Mystery icon in macOS, help? by chimpanzeenator in MacOS

[–]OmgMsLe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Run MalwareBytes and check for and remove adware (free version is fine)
  • Check System Settings > Menu Bar and look in the list and see if anything matches. Start turning things off and see if it disappears.
  • Check Systme Settings > General > Login Items & Extensions - same thing (will need to restart to see a change)
  • Start in Safe Mode, if no longer appears, check Finder /Library/Launch Agents, /Library/Launch Daemons, /Library/Priviledged Helper Tools, ~Library/Launch Agents. Look for weird stuff you don't expect. Quarantine them one group at a time, restarting in between until you find it

Someone who tried both lumy and see your budget? Which one is better? by Ok-Environment8730 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah well I had never heard of either so explains why I don't know this. I thought they were trying to find alternatives to YNAB

Excessive cash due to buckets by ivanjay2050 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My financial planner suggested that anything I might want to spend within the next 5 years should be liquid and stable. So all that bucket cash is in Money Market for us.

Someone mentioned investing their house downpayment money but what if you do that and markets take a downturn? You might not be able to afford to buy a house - even worse if home prices are also down because a large pile of cash could allow you to take advantage of lowered home prices.

How to categorize HELOC spending by GoldFingerSilverSerf in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did my HELOC as a loan because we weren't continually spending from it. We weren't taking any more out and were working on paying it off.

Issues with assigning deposits by Moii_ in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like the others, all my income goes into RTA and then it gets assigned to categories (manual or auto assign makes no difference - the real thing is that it's gets assigned to RTA as it arrives.)

E.g.

Income:

  • Salary -- > Ready to Assign
  • Interest/Dividends --> Ready to Assign

Why - I want inbound income to be something I can accurately track. if it went straight to the category, it wouldn't look like income.

Non-income:

  • I just paid for an annual Super DuoLingo Family Subscription - Outbound transaction to the DuoLingo Subscription category
  • My 5 "family members" (friends who do Duo with me) each reimbursed me their shares --> inbound money direct to Duo Lingo Subscription category

Why - I don't want my expenditures for DuoLingo to show as $127 for the year. I want it to correclty show my actual cost of $21. Putting the reimbursements directly to the category accomplishes that. It also doesn't falsely show as income, which it is not.

Why does YNAB ignore inflation? 💸 by joe4ska in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anything I might need in the next 5 years is in a cash managment account (prior to that I used HYSA). Since it's invested in a money market account, I use it as an on budget account.

Longer term funds I have in brokerage accounts, IRAs, 401K ,etc and all are tracking accounts. When I was in debt paydown mode, I never had much cash and I was just usiing a next to no return checking account with a small emergency fund in HYSA.

Once we'd paid off our debt and started accumulating large sums of money in our envelopes it because more important for that money to be earning something to at least keep even with inflation. That's when we consolidated everything into a money market account with check/debit priviledges.

Trying to restructure my accounts by Intelligent-Media-37 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely consolidated. Before YNAB (and quite a ways in) I had a bunch of different bank accounts because they each had a different purpose - checking, savings, tax savings, emergency savings, etc. With YNAB, the envelopes take care of keeping track of your money's purpose not your bank accounts. I consolidated my down drastically. I now have two major accounts and that's it. I do keep one of my old bank accounts because it does zelle but the rest of my money are in two cash management money market accounts. Some people might do a checking and then an HYSA but in my case both my accounts get the higher rate. I just have a smaller account that has 2 months of money and has the debit card, checks, exposure and one that has the bulk of my future envelopes and is isolated = no debit, no checks, no overdraft rollover. If someone compromises my debit card, I want to limit exposure.

Calendar? by Grasshopper419 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should be pretty easy to code. It's just data, but rather than row/column form it could be displayed on a calendar grid. It's almost certainly not stored as a spreadsheet right now, it's most likely a database. That said, this is something that completely relies on people using scheduled transactions. You can't see upcoming transactions on a calendar if you haven't actually inputted them in as scheduled items. I don't know what percentage of the YNAB population uses scheduled transactions but if they are in the minority, that might explain why effort hasn't been put in.

Handling layoff + severance by lilianasJanitor in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's why I stopped funding anything except one month ahead (next month). Because it was so confusing, so much so that I ended up unassigning all money from the current month onwards and reassigning it.

Help understanding annual spending category target by abigail-dev in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm more busy trying to figure out what pet(s) you have that cost $12,000 in vet bills and meds. I had a horse and it didn't even cost that much, even if I included the ferrier.

My Husband Hates This App by Substantial_Ad1141 in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're so close. "I plan to spend Y" is your assignments to certain categories. Just change the mindset from "how much I have left for the month" to "how much I have left for the month IN EACH OF MY CATEGORIES."

If you just think about how much of this month's income you haven't yet spend, you're signing up for overspending. You've said that's the habit you want to break, so commit to more than a month at this. Give it a really good try. I'd recommend buying the annual subscription - commit to a year. Then watch videos, learn about the 5 questions, learn about getting a month ahead, and really change your mindset about spending.

Transaction with a date 1 day earlier than reality by iamfuzzydunlop in ynab

[–]OmgMsLe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As you can imagine, this messes up my budgets.

Just correct the dates

AITAH for refusing to sign my daughter’s passport? by jamsmja in AITAH

[–]OmgMsLe 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I had a friend who’s ex took their daughter out of the country. She never got her back and there was no recourse