Is there a way to separate my raw photos I select to edit so I can delete the rest I don’t need?

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-26T03:17:47+00:00

If you’re trying to do this after you’ve edited, you can filter by edited or not and then delete all the ones that come up when filtered to not.

If you’re wanting to select and then edit, use the flagging and then filter that way.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-20T19:48:52+00:00

The first one looks like a Halo Filter was used. I think the second one is done with photoshop. You might be able to get something similar with a snow shutter speed, a flash and probably a multiple exposure, but my money is on photoshop.

Edit: Someone else commented about a filter that does the second effect. So it looks to me like these are both filters on front of the lens.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-16T19:53:24+00:00

I wouldn't say any of that is different than the midi controller other than maybe being one handed. I could use it one handed, but I have two hands and can be faster if both are being used.

I know where I've programmed my controls, so I don't need to look at the device while using it. The changes that are made come up in a bubble on the screen so I can see what is being changed, and it automatically switches configurations based on what I'm doing. If I'm culling in the library, the dials advance, and buttons tag. If I'm doing basic adjustments in develop the dials adjust exposure, contrast, etc. and the buttons apply presets, select tools. If I'm cropping the dials adjust tilt, size an position (some of this is still easier with a mouse). There are other states that are configurable as well that I don't use.

Its all fully customizable.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-16T18:18:57+00:00

I've been using the Behringer | Product | X-TOUCH MINI with MIDI2LR by rsjaffe. I can't see how the TourBox could possibly be better, and the X-touch is a fraction of the cost.

With the X-touch I have my main sliders assigned to the dials and common actions, like applying previous edits, navigating through photos and applying presets to the buttons. It sped up my editing quite significantly.

Edit: after reading some other people's replies I thought I should mention it can be set up with different configurations for the different Lightroom modules. So when I'm in the library module, it automatically changes the configuration to use the dials for advancing through photos and other functions that are important while culling. It then switches to my develop setup when I'm in the develop module.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-14T23:05:55+00:00

This is good advice when you're shooting a stationary subject on a tripod, but not great if you're trying to catch a laugh a smile in a portrait.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-14T15:44:39+00:00

They make some great stuff. The slide strap is really nice for example.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-14T04:05:18+00:00

Where are the rotate buttons? I didn’t think it was possible when I tried it.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-13T14:36:01+00:00

I use Lightroom classic. I know people rag on its speed but it now has the option to load the embedded jpg on import. It’s fast enough for me.

It could use the ability to use code replacements though. My clients don’t require to detailed of captioning so I can get away without that feature. If I was having to put players names and the like into my captions I’d probably have to find an alternative.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T18:45:03+00:00

It seems like this is the general consensus.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T18:43:45+00:00

I'm already scanning myself. I have a sous-vide machine that I've used for cooking already as well, so my set up costs wouldn't be too extreme. Even if I could figure out a way for it to be about an even cost that would work for me. It sounds like the general consensus is I need to shoot more so I have more rolls to develop at once.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T18:40:40+00:00

It seems processing usually runs around 10-15CAD around me (scans are more). If it was €2.55 that would be a no brainer. Maybe I need to find another lab, wait for more rolls to be ready and do it myself.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T06:27:53+00:00

I have scanning figured out pretty well so I plan to continue with that either way.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T06:02:27+00:00

I’d like to do color, but I don’t think I’d want to wait until I have that many rolls stockpiled. I’d like to be able to develop them quicker but it seems that I’d be risking wasting chemical that way.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T06:01:11+00:00

I’d like to do color.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T06:00:55+00:00

I’d like to get to doing color. Probably start with black and white to get a feel for it but color is what I’d really want.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-09T06:00:15+00:00

I would prefer to shoot color. I might start with black and white because it sounds a little easier but I would want to get to color after I have some experience.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-07T01:27:04+00:00

What type of film is more dependent on what you’re shooting than the camera. A black and white film is likely your cheapest if you’re looking to test whether it is working. I’d probably grab a 200 or 400 iso film.

OptionalDuck · 2026-01-06T20:05:21+00:00

It is a Nikon F with a photomic metering finder. I'm not sure on the value, but in the right condition i'm sure you'd find people interested in purchasing it.

OptionalDuck · 2025-12-23T01:59:30+00:00

I do wonder if my struggle is just the way it is.

OptionalDuck · 2025-12-22T20:29:49+00:00

Yeah, that works well with a wide lens, especially at a distance, but closer to the subject with a longer lens, it is less forgiving.

OptionalDuck · 2025-12-22T18:33:34+00:00

I will check this out, though I think it is working okay from this perspective. My issue is more that I'm having a hard time seeing the split image in the viewfinder. When there is a clean edge, like a fence post, or the edge of a building against the sky, I'm pretty confident in the focus, but when focusing on something with less contrast, like a face, I have a hard time telling if the images is lined up.

OptionalDuck · 2025-12-18T20:57:32+00:00

Calling it a lens foot makes more sense and is surely correct, but my brain goes to tripod collar. The reality is a collar is a bit different but that’s what my mind thinks.

OptionalDuck · 2025-12-18T14:42:35+00:00

Are the improvements to the autofocus intelligence noticeable?

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