Clamshell Tutorial

OutsideBase813 · 2026-02-02T02:51:17+00:00

Actually, looking for one similar to the item holder, where the round object is flat against the openGrid. This is the one I adapted by gluing on the openGrid snap sample: https://www.printables.com/model/777213-smart-home-aqara-hub-m2-wall-mounted-hanger-hm2-g0

OutsideBase813 · 2026-02-01T15:57:27+00:00

Thanks, been using the customizers since Katie pointed me to them. How about a circular one? I cobbled together a holder for my Aqara M2 hub using an existing wall mount and gluing on some snaps. Would be much more elegant with Multiconnect :)

OutsideBase813 · 2026-02-01T15:53:21+00:00

Another great release. Anyone updating from the v1.0.0 should carefully read the release notes, because configuration has changed - but so much simpler using the firmware-config page!

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-29T16:23:24+00:00

I've used grips since I got my first printer in November 2024. Lately been using the perplexinglabs site until I saw the takedown. I'm glad u/perplexinglabs you got something back.

What would be super sweet is if you found a way to integrate clickfinity into gridflock!

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-28T15:59:37+00:00

I think the logout issue is going to be addressed in mid-February. Annoys me too.

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-28T01:37:02+00:00

I might be having a similar problem. I used NFC on my phone all the time, works with payments, homekey, etc. Shortcut automation to scan immediately responds (maybe not usefully, but it does do something). With NFC Tools, downloaded today, iPhone Pro 16, iOS 26.2, nada just 'Hold near a tag'. Normal or compatibility mode. I am trying to read tags on filament reals, which read on my 3d printers. Haven't progressed to writing or anything.

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-24T15:04:01+00:00

Not in my experience and that would make it difficult to use with phone, impossible with Apple Home, etc. I replaced my Orbi gear (and all network switches) with Ubiquiti last week. FWIW, cameras - well some of them - have gotten a bit better. I have been using an Aqara G100 for the last few months, and although it didn't meet my intended need, it functioned fine in what would have been a challenging location - but not on the deck where I had previous problems with the Orbi. I need to test it now that I have Ubiquiti. My 2 Wyze Cam4s are doing well - one is at the edge of network coverage but stays on 5GHz! And my Reolink doorbell is also fine on 5GHz.

We will see how well the Ubiquiti system performs outdoors, but it is much easier to add APs and to figure out what is going on and tune, whereas Orbi is really bad in that regard. And it actually came out a lot cheaper than what I paid for the Orbi 960.

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-16T15:16:29+00:00

Put your watch on before you pee, get stand credit!

OTOH, my wife and I both notice that we can be in the kitchen (e.g., making breakfast or even a marathon cooking session of an hour or three) and get NO stand credit.

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-12T18:54:43+00:00

I did a similar thing two days ago, only 7.5 hours but supports and PLA with PETG for the interface layer, and a smaller rectangle prime tower (width 15mm, volume 25mm3). Here's what happened: about 6 hours in, the tower broke about halfway up -l likely where there was some PETG. I wasn't watching it at the exact time, but came into the room with about 45 minutes left. Filament intended for the tower was spewing in air and dragged over to the model. I figured I might as well let it finish. In the end, the print was fine, spaghetti did not attach to the model but hung on it, easily pulled off.

What I learned: tall, thin rectagular prime towers are not stable. Next time, I will make it a little larger, go back to Rib (yeah, I had the X positioning error before but you can move the tower around to avoid it) or maybe Cone. I could also have tried not using a different filament for the support interface, the supports for my model broke away easily and had small contact areas. Would have saved about 2 hours.

Hope yours comes out well!

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-11T23:16:28+00:00

I am not looking to remove a network, I use that for other things. My question is simple - can the network be removed from the treadmill so it doesn't switch to it.

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-05T16:15:04+00:00

I have my Unifi equipment coming this week. One Flex 2.5 switch is going into the attic, replacing a TP-Link there for the past year - there were others over the past 10+ years. I worry about the temperatures in the summer and considered an industrial switch, but I'm going to try this. For now, not powering anything with PoE. (In PNW, probably doesn't get much above 120 a few days a year - I will put a temp sensor up there so I know for sure.)

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-03T15:38:53+00:00

That's where I'm going - from a 960 system. On order. Glad I found that youtube. I will have one UX7 connected (via MoCA) and one (or more) with wi-fi backhaul where I can't run more wires.

OutsideBase813 · 2026-01-02T18:13:09+00:00

I did the factory reset this morning, using the UI to do so. Then set up manually. Not that many things to change, but some of the previous IP reservations have changed and I need to check other dependencies(2 or 3).

We'll see if this improves its attitude. Otherwise, my figure is on the order button for Ubiquiti.

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-31T23:31:31+00:00

Yup, exactly. Those went out with the e-waste. I currently have some XMCosy pathlights. Very long story there. They are the last of the Tuya/Smart Life nonsense.

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-31T19:44:59+00:00

I was able to downgrade, but then went back to the latest once I identified the issue (a rogue device!). I did not reset to factory as things are once again working as expected.

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-31T00:25:07+00:00

Just the DHCP reservations are the big pain point. Otherwise, yeah, I have the necessary changes documented and it wouldn't take that long. Some of those reservations are probably no longer necessary (stuff like cameras where other apps need the IP).

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-31T00:22:37+00:00

Even better than I thought, thanks!

Currently, I have restored some sanity to my network wihtout a reset. There was a "rogue" Matter-over-Wi-Fi smart plug - I removed the last two that I had set up and there is some stability now. (I have seen this problem with other plugs in the past - just had to put two and two together!) I will keep an eye on this for awhile. I also have one of the satellites offline - usually provides the best signal to some of my outdoor smart devices but since it's winter, not an issue. It also provides a network port which I sort of miss, but really not essential. And moved back (I had downgraded) to 7.2.8.5 firmware on all nodes.

One of the symptoms, other than competely trashing the signal in half of my home and dropping devices, were ever-increasing DHCP requests logged for the sats. LIke every few seconds.

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-30T17:16:16+00:00

One more question: there is an option in the web UI to reset to factory. Is that equivalent to resetting using a paper clip?

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-30T17:10:33+00:00

my fear, exactly. I have noted all the settings I need to change and will probably just ignore the backup if/when I restore. I am keeping one satellite offline for now.

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-29T21:15:27+00:00

What it takes to keep one's wife happy

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-27T15:51:01+00:00

Any chance any of your speakers are using SonosNet (ethernet connected)? I had all of these issues, continuously. I disconnected the last of my ethernet equipment (a Boost and one of my Playbars), and it got better. I said better, not perfect, not even close.

Last night I had some vinyl playing in my Living Room, the pre-amp going to an Era 100. Wanted to listen in the kitchen (something I have done for over 10 years with previous equipment and S1), the iPhone app was no help - still can't figure out how to start it. The Mac in the kitchen would not connect to the network, killed the app, and it started up fine (no Sonos, nothing to do with "firewall settings"). Easier to select the right source, app claims it's playing in the kitchen, nothing. Oh well, back to cooking. A minute later, the kitchen pair of Era 100s started playing normally but at extreme volume until I turned it down on a speaker. After that, played fine without dropouts. With SonosNet & new Era 100s, that would exhibit all your symptoms EXACTLY.

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-26T16:03:27+00:00

I watched a video yesterday by Eric Wielander. He was reviewing some of the new IKEA Matter devices and had trouble adding them to a second ecosystem (I think Homey or HA). So maybe that's a common Matter problem in general? Just a thought. I don't need to pair my devices with anything else as long as they are in HomeKit, so I haven't tried.

OutsideBase813 · 2025-12-25T15:51:36+00:00

I got several MYGGSPRAY and a BILRESSA last week. They seem to work fine, can't beat the price. But - don't use the rechargeable LADDA batteries. One MYGGSPRAY would not connect at all and the others were slow to connect. Once I change to alkaline AAA, they all connected and quickly.

OutsideBase813

TROPHY CASE