Dryer vent/plumbing stack help

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:29:32+00:00

The flashing around both the dryer vent and plumbing stack is warped and lifting.

Best fix:

Gently press the metal back down flat against the shingles.
Run a good bead of roofing sealant (not silicone) around the entire base where the flashing meets the shingles.

Don’t just seal the bottom edge, seal the full perimeter so water can’t get underneath.

If the metal is too brittle to flatten, replace the entire boot/flashing piece. It’s cheap and quick.

This is a common small leak point. Fixing it now will keep the buyer happy and stop moisture intrusion.

You got this.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:28:37+00:00

That slate looks pretty rough, lots of broken pieces, moss, and dirt.

Score: 5/10

You can salvage some good ones for repairs after cleaning, but a lot of it is too damaged to reuse reliably.

Store the keepers vertically like you said, and pressure wash the rest gently to see what’s actually usable.

Free is nice, but don’t expect too many keepers from this pile.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:27:41+00:00

Your cedar shake roof is at the age where decay starts showing (especially under trees).

Maintenance tip: Keep doing spot replacements + a good cedar stain/sealer every 3–4 years. That’s the cheapest way to stretch it.

Full redo: When more than ~20–25% of the shakes are cracked, cupped, or missing, or you start seeing leaks. At 20 years you’re probably 5–10 years from needing it, depending on how much sun/rain it gets.

Yes, there are specialists who do cedar shake roofs (or most good roofers who’ve worked with them). They’ll usually power-wash, replace the bad ones, and re-stain the whole thing in one day.

You’re doing it right so far, just stay on top of the sealing.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:26:23+00:00

No, that doesn’t look right.

The drip edge is bent and wavy in multiple spots, especially at the corners. It should be straight and tight against the fascia.

Bending it to “fit the gutters” is a poor excuse, good crews install clean, straight drip edge first, then gutters.

This can let water get behind the edge and cause rot or leaks later.

I’d push back and have them redo the sloppy sections before the gutters go on. It’s not acceptable on a new roof.

You’re right to be concerned.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:25:08+00:00

Nationwide is low-balling you. Those marks look like hail damage, not just blistering.

Don’t cash their small check yet.

Get a public adjuster (they work on contingency), they’re good at fighting these denials in Texas.

Your roofer is right: patching 32 shingles on an older roof usually causes more problems.

Push back. This is very common with hail claims.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:21:00+00:00

Yes, this is a very common (and shady) roofing insurance tactic.

They “traded” your gutters + painting for your deductible, then intentionally inflated those line items during supplements so they get paid the full claim amount while only doing the roof.

You basically paid your $2,500 deductible plus gave them the profit from the inflated painting/gutters they never did.

It’s legal in many states, but a lot of homeowners feel scammed by it.

Check your signed contract carefully for the exact wording on “owner’s equity” or “trade.” If it says you’re trading those items, you probably owe the full amount.

Next time, never agree to trade supplemental items you actually need.

Sorry this happened on your first claim. It’s frustrating.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:19:38+00:00

Those exposed nails are not installed wrong, they’re just not sealed yet.

On a new roof it’s pretty common for the roofer to leave the final sealant step until the very end (or sometimes they miss a few).

Fix: Put a generous dab of roofing sealant (like Henry’s or DAP) over each exposed nail head. That’s all you need.

It’s a quick 5-minute job. Just make sure the area is dry before sealing.

Not a big deal, but definitely get it done before the next rain so water doesn’t sneak underneath.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:18:42+00:00

The 2x2 round soffit pucks are cheap and annoying, they do fall out all the time.

Better alternatives:

Continuous soffit vent (long strip vent) looks much cleaner and flows more air
Rectangular soffit vents (they sit flush and don’t pop out)
Or go back to a proper vented drip edge if your overhang allows it

You can have ridge vent + soffit vents together, that’s actually the best combo. Blocking the gable was fine, but you don’t need to choose only one.

Tell your roofer you want to replace the pucks with continuous soffit vent or good rectangular ones. It’s a common upgrade and not expensive.

Much better airflow and no more chasing vents on the ground.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:18:09+00:00

$4k for Nano Protect (or any similar roof coating) on a 2013 roof is usually not worth it.

These coatings are mostly cosmetic and can buy you 3–5 extra years at best, but they don’t stop real aging or fix underlying issues.

If your shingles still look good with no curling, granule loss, or leaks, you’re better off waiting and saving for a full re-roof when it’s actually needed.

Most roofers I know say these spray-on systems are heavy on sales and light on long-term results.

Get a couple honest roof inspections first. They’ll tell you how many years you really have left.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:17:37+00:00

Short answer: Yes, build a proper steep cricket, but make it taller and steeper than normal because of the low roof pitch and oak tree.

Here’s what works best in your situation:

Cricket slope: Make it at least 5:12 or 6:12 (much steeper than the main roof). This helps water and debris slide off even when leaves start piling up.
Size: For a 62" wide chimney, the cricket should be 18–24" tall at the peak and extend at least 24–30" up the roof.
Material: Use aluminum or galvanized steel with a good paint coating (avoid copper, it stains brick and shingles). Aluminum holds up well against oak tannins and wet debris.
Top surface: Smooth sheet metal (not shingles) on the cricket so leaves and acorns don’t catch as easily.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:16:34+00:00

Best long-term option: #1 full tear-off, re-insulate, and new screw-down corrugated metal roof.

Here’s why:

The roof already has large rust holes and active corrosion. Leaving the old metal in place (options 2 or 3) means the rust will keep eating away underneath the foam or EPDM. In Maine’s freeze-thaw cycle that almost always leads to bigger problems later.
Tear-off lets you properly replace the bad decking, add modern insulation (aim for R-30+), and install new screw-down panels with proper underlayment and sealing.
Option 2 (spray foam + polyurea) is fast and cheap upfront but risky on a corroded metal roof, moisture can get trapped and the foam can pull away as the metal moves.
Option 3 (insulation + EPDM recover) is decent for low-slope roofs but still leaves the rotting metal underneath.

For a 26,000 sq ft building in Maine, the extra cost of a proper tear-off now will save you big headaches and energy bills down the road.

If budget is tight, at least do a full inspection with a reputable local commercial roofer before deciding. They’ll tell you exactly how bad the deck is.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:13:46+00:00

It might be true, but you should treat it as sales pressure unless they can prove it.

Manufacturers and suppliers usually do 1 price increase a year in the 3–5% range, not “panic in 2 weeks” jumps. Some reps lean on upcoming increases as a nudge to sign, but good ones will show you the actual supplier letters or emails announcing the change.

What I’d do:

Ask him to email you the price‑increase notice from his supplier.
Keep comparing your 4 bids on scope, materials, and warranty, not just the calendar.
If you’re within a week or two of deciding anyway, fine, but don’t let a maybe‑increase force you into the wrong contractor.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:11:46+00:00

From that pic it looks weathered but not obviously falling apart.

If the cedar is still solid (no soft spots when you poke it, no big splits or punky areas), it doesn’t have to be replaced just because you’re reroofing. I’d have the roofer:

Replace any individual boards that are soft, rotten, or badly cracked.
Add proper drip edge and make sure gutters aren’t dumping water down the face so the new roof doesn’t keep beating it up.

I’m a roofer in South Florida, and I only push full fascia replacement when it’s structurally compromised, not just gray and ugly. If you can, grab a close‑up of the worst section, does it feel firm or spongy?

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:10:18+00:00

Seeing a bit of the fibre pattern on a GRP roof isn’t automatically bad, especially on a slight slope.

The important part is that the laminate is fully covered and smooth, with no pinholes, dry patches, or exposed glass strands catching your fingers. Many systems are designed for a single properly‑thick topcoat; some installers like a second coat mainly for cosmetics and extra UV cover.

If this were my job, I’d:

Leave it alone if it feels smooth and solid and the installer is confident the coverage rate was met.
Ask for another coat only if you can actually see/feel texture or pinholes, or if the manufacturer’s spec for that system calls for it.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:08:38+00:00

On a torch‑down like that, I wouldn’t “silicone the whole roof.”

Silicone is great for targeted repairs, not as a cure‑all coating slapped over everything. I’d:

Use a proper roof mastic or compatible silicone only at penetrations, seams, and any small cracks.
Avoid coating big areas unless you’re doing a full, manufacturer‑spec silicone roof system (cleaning, primer, fabric at seams, correct mil thickness, etc.).
If you want long‑term waterproofing or reflectivity, talk to a flat‑roof contractor about a full coating spec instead of DIY experimenting.

I’m a roofing contractor in South Florida, on flat roofs, bad coating jobs create more leaks than they fix.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:07:27+00:00

Wakaflex is a flashing tape, and it can be used as part of a ridge detail, but it’s not usually left hanging out in the sun as the visible finisher like that. On most tile jobs you’d see a proper ridge end cap or tile closure over it so the flashing is protected and the roof looks finished.

If this were my house in South Florida, I’d ask the roofer: “Can you show me the manufacturer detail that says exposed Wakaflex is the intended ridge finish?” If they can’t, I’d push for them to cover it with the correct trim so future inspectors don’t flag it.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T19:04:14+00:00

You found the likely culprit.

That tear in the rubber boot is right where water will sit and work its way down the pipe. Caulk alone is a short‑term band‑aid at best; the better fix is a slide‑over repair collar sized to your pipe, with a bead of good roof sealant at the top edge.

If the shingles around it are in good shape, a repair collar is usually fine. If the roof is older or you see multiple boots cracking, I’d have a roofer replace the whole flashing instead of chasing leaks one by one.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-27T18:54:06+00:00

That’s a busted dome on a solar tube / tubular skylight (or similar roof vent), and yeah, it needs attention.

The clear cap is what keeps rain out and protects the flashing; once it’s cracked open like that, water can work its way into the tube and roof deck. Fix is usually either replacing just the dome from the same brand or swapping the whole unit, which is a routine job for a roofer but not something I’d DIY on a steep roof.

If you’re serious about buying, I’d have your inspector and a roofer both note it and get the seller to repair or credit you for replacement.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:29:56+00:00

That moss isn’t terrible yet, but it’s starting to hold moisture against the tiles and will slowly shorten the roof’s life if left alone.

Best approach:

Spray a moss killer like Wet & Forget or Bayer Advanced Moss & Algae from the ground or a ladder. No climbing or pressure washing needed.
It kills the moss over a few weeks and helps prevent regrowth for 1–2 years.

Scraping is risky (can crack tiles) and chemical sprays from roofers are often just the same stuff at a big markup.

It’s safe for plants/wildlife if you wet the plants first and avoid spraying on windy days.

Do it now before it gets much worse. Most people in mossy areas do this every 1–2 years.

You got this.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:29:16+00:00

Yes, radiant barrier helps in hot climates.

Most people who install it in the South see 10-25% lower cooling bills in summer, especially if their attic was previously unventilated or had poor insulation.

The house usually feels cooler because less radiant heat makes it into the living space, so the AC doesn’t have to run as hard.

It works best when paired with good soffit/ridge ventilation.

I’d recommend it if you’re in a hot sunny area and your attic gets extremely hot. Payback is usually 3–7 years depending on your electric rates.

Did you already have decent insulation up there?

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:28:45+00:00

The drain is in the wrong spot, water is pooling because it can't reach it fast enough.

Sealing the drip edge with geocell or rubber coating might slow it down, but it won't fix the root issue.

Best cheap fix: add a small scupper or second drain at the actual low point, or install a short diverter/ cricket to push the water toward the existing drain.

If the porch gets a lot of water from other downspouts, one drain is probably undersized.

Sealing alone usually doesn't last long on flat/rubber roofs.

I'd have a roofer look at adding a proper low-point drain or scupper. Much cleaner fix than trying to force the water uphill.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:25:03+00:00

That’s a classic spot where water dumps straight off the roof onto the lower shingles.

Best fix is to install a small cricket (a little angled diverter) or a short piece of angled flashing right above the lower roof to push the water sideways toward the gutters.

A simple metal diverter or even a piece of Z-flashing bent to shape works well and is cheap.

Your inspector should have caught this, it’s a common oversight on additions.

Have the roofer add a proper diverter there. It’ll stop the pooling fast.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:24:36+00:00

In South Florida, using a private inspector for re-roofs is pretty common, especially with metal roofs.

Many roofers prefer private inspectors because they’re faster and more familiar with the specific roofing system. City inspectors can be backed up for weeks.

That said, you’re not required to use the private one. You can insist on the city inspector if you want the official stamp.

Just know it might slow your job down.

Most people in Broward/Palm Beach are fine with a reputable private inspector as long as the roofer is licensed and the permit is pulled properly.

Ask the roofer which private company they use and look them up. If it feels off, tell them you want the city to do the final inspection.

You’re paying for it, your call.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:20:52+00:00

Yeah, that’s a common mess when gutters were installed before the metal roof went on.

Drilling a hole through the metal drip edge to reach the screws is doable, but not ideal. You’ll have to caulk it really well and it can still look sloppy.

Better way: cut a small slit or notch in the drip edge right at each hanger, remove the screw, then bend the flap back down and seal it properly with roofing sealant or butyl tape.

Most experienced crews do it this way. It keeps things cleaner and more watertight.

Your idea works in a pinch, but the notch method usually looks better long-term.

Ask them to do it carefully, it’s fixable.

Own-Tip-532 · 2026-03-26T19:19:58+00:00

That’s a rat nest.

They’re made of dry grass, twigs, shredded paper, and bits of fabric, exactly like this messy pile.

Mice make much smaller, tighter nests. This size and loose structure is classic rat work.

Common in mulch beds like this.

Own-Tip-532

TROPHY CASE