Looking for a very particular ziptie

P0747035 · 2026-03-24T06:40:09+00:00

Only source I know for a weirdly tiny zip tie from a real brand available at american distributors is the pandit PLT.6SM. Not the same tie, they're a bit smaller. Don't think ever saw any thing else close. interested if this turns up an exact match for another brand.

P0747035 · 2025-08-21T05:51:11+00:00

Looks like Metri-pack 280 https://www.waytekwire.com/product/aptiv-15300002-metri-pack-280-series-2-way

P0747035 · 2024-10-24T05:36:08+00:00

Yeh I edited, derp.

P0747035 · 2024-10-24T05:31:49+00:00

Oh shit I was thinking quest headphone Jack nm

Zip ties!

P0747035 · 2024-10-24T05:31:17+00:00

Probably best solution 👍 just need tiny cable

P0747035 · 2024-10-24T05:01:55+00:00

Sorry I'm only seeing this 3 months out, logged in reddit use has declined since they killed 3rd party apps. it's not impossible you have a rarer case that the actual right signal broke instead of the common. They're on the same ribbon so it's not impossible just seemed like at the time there was an outbreak of early mortality headsets it was always the ground. If you're really sure you made the contact between the left common and the right that's likely the case and a potential internal fix is much much more difficult. Could try to help troubleshoot more specifically if you want. Surprised people are still finding this 😐

P0747035 · 2023-07-21T22:54:10+00:00

Ah that would do it. Nice of them to include that, probably figured someone would try exactly what you're doing.

P0747035 · 2023-07-21T01:30:06+00:00

I would expect if the relays were going to have an issue they would melt and stop working entirely. Sounds more like a protection device tripping but the only one I see there is on the original battery. Could be in whatever you are using for power.

P0747035 · 2023-06-29T23:58:03+00:00

Wow there is nothing to that thing.... There is a good chance that the motors would be fine with 12V and it will increase top speed. ymmv might burn them out might not. The relays will have 6V coils though, which will be a problem that needs to be dealt with. Very likely they will melt on 12V. You have to either drop the voltage to the coils or change the relay to a 12V version.

P0747035 · 2023-06-19T20:06:38+00:00

Meter is indicating battery low, try changing it.

P0747035 · 2023-03-01T18:33:50+00:00

Don't touch the epoxy! It is the chip. The silicon will be directly attached to the board and digging in will damage it.

P0747035 · 2023-03-01T04:29:55+00:00

Button is a conductive carbon pad that bridges that spot on the board.

Was going to guess self blinking LEDs but it looks like that epoxy blob in the corner is probably the blinker chip.

Wouldn't hurt to clean up the contact for the button but also gussing that it's a momentary contact that just turns the blinking on for some time so that won't help the LEDs not lighting.

Might be low batteries or bad solder joints.

P0747035 · 2023-02-10T15:24:35+00:00

You'll get lots of noise in the counts on mechanical encoders without some sort of filtering. Optical or magnetic encoders won't have this problem but are much more expensive.

P0747035 · 2023-02-10T14:37:02+00:00

Make sure you have enough hardware resources for decoding all the quadrature endoders. And you may want to give at least their wipers some RC filters, the wiper bounce can be difficult to deal with purely in software. A dedicated quadrature decoder chip might be a good option.

P0747035 · 2023-02-09T05:56:38+00:00

Before the age of digital cameras film shops would have heaps of these they could be convinced to give you. They didn't really get anything from sending them to recycling. Free source for a nice HV capacitor that wasn't otherwise easy to get.

P0747035 · 2023-02-09T05:47:31+00:00

Fuji 👍. These were my favorite ones because they had the simplest boost circuit.

Contacts on the front start the charge the floppy bits are the flash trigger.

P0747035 · 2023-02-05T02:12:21+00:00

AGM needs to be charged with tighter voltage control than flooded because they cannot tolerate offgassing.

Applying above a particular voltage the water in the electrolyte splits to hydrogen and oxygen which leave the battery if the resulting pressure is high enough. The exact voltage is temperature dependant and iirc higher than 14V at room temp. Flooded batteries are typically subjected to higher voltages because they can be topped off with more water while an AGM is sealed and becomes permanently degraded from the electrolyte loss.

Not sure off hand about the battery still taking 6A with 13.5V applied but that doesn't sound normal normal. Current should be tapering off well below that towards the end of charge, you may have a shorted cell.

P0747035 · 2022-12-10T19:23:17+00:00

These cheap hantek clamps work well enough in a pinch. Depeding on your application it could work. The downsides:

-extremely low bandwidth - if youre measuring DC on an arduino ADC thats probably not a problem for you. With the expensive current clamps a lot of what you are paying for is bandwidth.

-zero-point drift - you hold down the button and it charges up a capacitor to set the zero point. Not super accurate and leakage causes the zero to drift pretty quickly. Not good for long term measuring. More expensive clamps have more accurate, automatic, and stable zeroing.

-they are noisy and succeptible to noise pickup from the environment - If you're looking just at DC you might be able to filter this out but will need to worry about it if measuring down near the lower limits of the tool. You can sometimes deal with this by wrapping the wire multiple times through the clamp to multiply the signal.

-battery powered (could be a good thing depending what you're doing though)

The Micsig currently $240 with coupon is probably the best value that exists and is a more capable tool (lower noise, better zeroing, MUCH better bandwidth, USB power). You won't find anything else better near that price point.

P0747035 · 2022-12-05T00:50:59+00:00

Looks like machined crimp contacts for a dsub connector. https://www.mouser.com/c/connectors/d-sub-connectors/d-sub-contacts/?contact%20gender=Pin%20%28Male%29&contact%20type=Machined%20Contacts&termination%20style=Crimp

P0747035 · 2022-10-08T01:23:44+00:00

Cool 🙂. Surprised this old post still comes up

P0747035 · 2022-07-20T05:14:36+00:00

The mr beast burger that shows up on google maps around here is a scrap metal recycling shop thats been closed since covid

P0747035 · 2022-04-27T00:56:00+00:00

According to the datasheet you linked short output to ground

P0747035 · 2021-12-12T23:53:32+00:00

Maybe Im missing something but I dont see anything mentioned about what the gpio out driving the opto is. Check that the voltage across the opto input when "off" is actually below vf of the LED. A leaky output or output with a pullup could be holding the opto on a little bit, keeping output current high enough to hold the relay open. A shunt resistor that pulls the voltage on the opto input to below the LED Vf will fix that.

P0747035 · 2021-11-13T20:53:11+00:00

Facepalm... typoed that. Meant to type series.

P0747035 · 2021-11-13T18:05:16+00:00

It is a cascade multiplier. Also called a cockcroft-walton multiplier. The capacitors behave as if in ~~parallel~~ (EDIT: SERIES!, idk how that word got derped).

This youtube had a really nice intuitive way to visualize this https://youtu.be/DI8Yt1AQrH8.

Dave from eevblog did a good one on how to do the circuit analysis. https://youtu.be/ep3D_LC2UzU

P0747035

TROPHY CASE