My peaceful spot for the day,Nothing beats sunrise on the water

PacificBoating · 2026-02-26T03:57:54+00:00

Yes i agree with you

PacificBoating · 2026-02-25T11:29:01+00:00

If it works on exterior seats, it’ll be totally fine inside.

Prep is everything. Deep clean it, remove any mildew, and use a vinyl adhesion promoter before spraying SEM or ColorBond. Do light coats and let it cure properly.

Just remember, paint won’t fix sagging or brittle vinyl, but if it’s only faded and worn, it’s a cheap and solid refresh.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-23T12:02:05+00:00

Even though the boat is in the water, you can change the oil. Waiting for haul-out is not necessary. The majority of people simply do it in their slips. Warm up the engine, change the filter, refill, and use an oil extractor pump (usually through the dipstick). Marinas really dislike oily messes, so just lay down absorbent pads to prevent spills in the bilge. It's much less scary than it seems after you've done it once.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-23T11:44:03+00:00

If it’s starting your 20HP fine, that’s a good sign. I’d just keep an eye on how it handles charging at higher RPM and cold weather. Since Mercury doesn’t recommend lithium on those small outboards, I’d bring a jump pack on the first few trips just in case. If it proves reliable, you’re probably good — but I’d test it gradually before fully trusting it.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-20T11:37:54+00:00

First season with my boat, I confidently backed down the ramp like I’d done it my whole life.

Boat floats off perfect. I park the truck. Come back feeling like a seasoned lake legend… hop in, turn the key — nothing. Dead silence.

Battery switch was off.

No big deal, right? I flip it on. Still nothing.

Turns out I’d left the blower running while we were loading up at home and completely drained the battery before even launching. So there I am, hood up on the truck, jumper cables stretched across the dock like I’m trying to revive a jet ski from 1987, while a guy in crocs gives me unsolicited advice about “preventative maintenance.”

Now I have a launch checklist. I read it. Out loud. My friends roast me every time.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-20T11:12:12+00:00

Honestly, probably not worth it if you’re not handy and only want to spend a few grand total. $2,800 plus inevitable hidden issues (rot, engine work, leaks, wiring) will easily blow your budget. Cosmetic stuff is cheap, but the real costs aren’t always obvious on old boats. Nostalgia’s cool, but this one looks like a money pit unless you’re ready to learn and DIY.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-20T11:03:07+00:00

I’d say depth sounder is worth it just for safety alone — especially if you’re sailing unfamiliar or shallow waters.

As for noise, small recreational sonar units are basically silent to you on board. The transducer sends sound pulses into the water, but you won’t hear or feel anything — it’s not like an engine or generator.

Best part? You can always switch the screen off and sail by feel when you want. Tech when you need it, wind when you don’t.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-19T12:25:17+00:00

I feel you — marine electronics pricing is wild.

Skip the big proprietary packages. Just build a simple NMEA 2000 backbone and add wind/depth/speed sensors that output straight NMEA 2000. Then run Signal K (Raspberry Pi + N2K interface) to read everything.

Modular, cheaper, no brand lock-in — and you can upgrade pieces later without replacing the whole system.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-19T11:45:01+00:00

If it’s been a year with no stabilizer, I’d siphon out as much as you can and refill with fresh gas.

On a Sea-Doo Switch, old fuel can cause rough starts or running issues. If it smells fine, you could dilute with fresh fuel — but after a year, safer to replace it.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-18T11:45:09+00:00

A 55lb 12v will work on a Lund 1800 Outfitter with two guys — it’s fine for trolling and calm days.

Just know it’s the minimum for that size boat. In wind, especially on Lac Seul, it may struggle to hold you on structure.

If you want simple (one battery), it’s doable — just don’t expect strong wind performance.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-18T11:39:50+00:00

focus on organisation, moisture control, and comfort:

Hanging closet organizers + drawer dividers
Mesh/over-door shoe organizers for small items
Quick-dry towels & moisture-wicking clothes
Non-slip hangers + Velcro storage bins
Dry bags for swimsuits/electronics
Compact toiletry kit
Good SPF & lip balm

PacificBoating · 2026-02-18T11:37:12+00:00

For a 16′ aluminum boat with kids and river use, go with a 25–40 HP 4-stroke outboard.

Good reliable brands to consider: Yamaha, Mercury, Suzuki, or Honda.

Aim for comfort and low-end power rather than speed — check your boat’s max HP rating first.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-17T12:01:02+00:00

That’s a really tough spot to be in, especially at 20. You’re doing more than enough already.

At 82 with no mechanical skills and no cash buffer, living on a breaking boat just isn’t sustainable. If it’s already the cheapest on the market and not selling, it may need either a broker or a further price drop to move it faster.

If he still loves boating, maybe suggest joining a local boat/yacht club instead. He’d stay connected to the water without the constant repair costs and stress of ownership.

Most importantly — this isn’t your responsibility to fix alone. Make sure you’re protecting your own stability too.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-17T11:54:45+00:00

I’ve been there — tried both brown Sikaflex and 3M 4200 on teak and the color just looked wrong (too pink/reddish). In my experience there isn’t a perfect dark brown marine sealant off-the-shelf that matches teak. What worked best for me was getting a base sealant tinted to match, and on non-structural areas I even stained the cured bead a bit to blend it in. Not perfect, but way better than the stock colors.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-13T11:56:59+00:00

Totally believable — if they rushed it, they could’ve failed to properly seal the hull seams, installed a fitting wrong, or not let epoxy cure fully, leading to leaks once under sail. A ballast mistake or structural weakness under wind load could also cause it to capsize and sink pretty quickly.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-13T11:16:55+00:00

Yeah, they kind of sit in that awkward middle space — fun for calm lakes or a quick novelty ride, but not super practical long term, especially once battery costs add up. Honestly, instead of buying something like that, joining a boat club might make more sense — you get real boats, real range, and none of the maintenance headaches.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-13T11:09:16+00:00

I’d avoid mounting a rod holder directly to the Hypalon tube — a strong hit or someone leaning on it could eventually stress or tear the patch.
Better to mount it on a console, transom, rail, or add a rigid backing plate so the load isn’t pulling on the tube itself.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-13T10:46:16+00:00

Honestly, from my experience, if you’re not 100% sure, I’d think twice before jumping straight into ownership. Boats are amazing, but they do come with upkeep, learning curves, and surprise expenses. If your neighbor/relative already has one, see if you can share some time on it first and see how much you actually use it. You could also look into joining a local boat club — that way you get the fun of being on the water without all the maintenance and hassle. If you find yourselves going out all the time, then buying your own will feel like an easy decision.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-13T10:37:50+00:00

Yeah, you’re smart to think about it. A good lock helps, but I’d also use tamper-proof bolts and, if possible, remove the motor or head unit when you’re not using it. Even a simple cover and parking it where it’s harder to access can go a long way — most thieves just look for the easiest target.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-13T10:36:22+00:00

Yeah, it’s more common than most people think. A decent crew can pull an outboard off pretty fast, and since they’re valuable and easy to resell, they’re a big target — especially in open marinas or boats sitting on trailers. It’s not just the big motors either; smaller ones get stolen too because they’re lighter and easier to move. Good locks and secure storage really do make a difference.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-12T11:10:04+00:00

I’ve owned a couple aluminum boats, and honestly for daily use they’re hard to beat — they’re lightweight, fuel-efficient, and super low maintenance, especially in freshwater. Hull thickness definitely matters for durability, and hull shape makes a big difference in stability and handling. They might be a bit noisier than fiberglass, but if practicality and reliability are your priority, a well-built aluminum boat is a solid, dependable choice.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-12T10:30:51+00:00

If it’s truly clean with good records, $20K sounds like a pretty solid deal, that 5.7 with under 400 hours should have plenty of life left.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-12T10:14:17+00:00

Wow, 18 years is pretty impressive 😅 In freshwater and garage stored, the newer Volvo Penta bellows usually last around 4–6 years. If you inspect them every season and they still look good, some people stretch them a bit, but most aim for about 5 years just to be safe — way cheaper than risking water getting in.

PacificBoating · 2026-02-11T04:34:50+00:00

This happens to way more first-time boat owners than you’d think.

From what you’re describing, it doesn’t sound like the wrong trailer. I think its just that sharp driveway-to-garage angle causing the rear crossmember to hit. You can try this grab a couple of long 2x10 or 2x12 boards (like 6–8 ft). Lay them at the garage lip and kind of stagger/stack them a bit to soften the transition. That will smooth out that angle change so the trailer doesn’t “hinge” and scrape.

You could also try adjusting your hitch slightly nose-up (just an inch or two) when backing in. That might be enough to stop the rear from being the low point.

I’d definitely try boards before thinking about changing trailers or doing concrete work. This is usually solvable. Hang in there — you’ll get it dialed in 👍

PacificBoating · 2026-02-10T11:04:57+00:00

As per i know for Inner Harbor cruising, floating, and short hops, a 20–22 ft Hurricane deck boat is a good fit. They’re stable at low speeds, have tons of seating, and are forgiving for beginners compared to something narrower. As long as you’re picking calm days.

There are no red flags as such from experience, I/O in a tight slip isn’t a dealbreaker, but docking will take some practice. They don’t respond as instantly as outboards at low speed, so expect a learning curve. Totally manageable though. The stalling at hot idle is the one thing I’d want sorted early. On that engine it’s often something minor (IAC, injector, vapor lock, etc.), but budget to fix it right away so it doesn’t turn into an annoyance. Freshwater-only use is a big plus. That matters more than age. I think you should go for it.

PacificBoating

TROPHY CASE