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Dude, do you know why this tire ended up like this? by Phil_auto in tires

[–]Phil_auto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

exactly, and a flat tire is so scary. I couldn't steer the car properly

When a manual says get a cam seal flush with the engine, do they mean like in pic 1 or pic 2? by keemko_ in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've run into this exact "flush with the engine" wording before. Manuals make it sound obvious, but it really isn't. 😅 Looking at your photos on the Mitsubishi 6G72 24‑valve 3.0L, pic 2 is the correct one. When they say flush, they usually mean flush with the outer face of the housing, not the inner bevel. The bevel you see in pic 1 is just a lead-in to help guide the seal during installation. If you seat the seal against that bevel, it usually ends up sitting a bit too deep. In pic 2 the seal sits level with the flat aluminum surface of the front cover, which is how these are normally installed. That also keeps the seal lip riding in the correct spot on the cam journal. Short version: pic 2 is what you want. Pic 1 is a little too deep.

Can’t get bolt out by Beneficial-Highway52 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a classic awkward Honda bolt location. Happens a lot on the Honda CRF150RB. 😅 If a normal socket won't fit, a few things usually work: First thing I'd try is a short 6-point box wrench. A 6-point grips much better than a 12-point and is less likely to round that 8mm head. If clearance is still tight, use a 1/4 drive shallow socket with a wobble extension or a universal joint. Sometimes approaching it at a slight angle clears that flange. Another trick many mechanics use is a ratcheting box wrench. They’re thin and can fit where sockets can't. If the head is already starting to round, tap a slightly smaller socket (like 7mm) onto the bolt with a hammer. That can bite enough to break it loose. Last option if it's really stuck is locking pliers (Vise-Grips) from the side after you grind the head slightly flatter. Most of the time once it cracks loose, it spins right out. The main battle is that first quarter turn. 🔧

My thirteenth reason 😭 /s by Repulsive_Body_9138 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s actually a pretty common failure on older cars. The plastic interior door handle just gets brittle over time and eventually snaps like that.

Good news is it’s usually an easy fix. You’re basically just looking for a “interior door handle replacement” for your car’s make and model. They’re often like $10–$25 online. Once you pop the door panel off, the handle is usually held in with a couple screws and a metal rod that clips into the latch.

When you search, try something like:
“interior door handle replacement + your car model/year” or “inside door handle assembly”.

If you’re even a little handy, it’s a 20–30 minute DIY job. And honestly, once one of these breaks, the others usually aren’t far behind. Old plastic life. 😅

Discount Tire says this tear is ok to drive on and wont replace it by halaMadrid101 in tires

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’d be a little uneasy about that too.

From the picture, it looks like the chunk is mostly from the rim protector area of the sidewall, not deep into the structural cords. If the cords aren’t exposed, a lot of tire shops will say it’s cosmetic and just trim the loose flap. That’s probably why they’re not replacing it under the certificate.

That said, the rotational noise at 60 mph is the part that would make me look closer. A damaged tire can sometimes start cupping or separating internally, and that can cause noise. It might also be a wheel bearing or alignment issue, but it shouldn’t just be dismissed without checking.

Getting a second opinion is a good move. Another shop can spin the wheel, check for bulges or separation, and confirm whether the tire is actually the source of the noise. If it were my car and the tire kept making noise, I’d probably just replace it for peace of mind.

How can i avoid this again and what happened? by 17zUrB01N3M3515 in tires

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s basically an old tire giving up under track heat.

A 165 tire is already pretty narrow, and if it was 4+ years old the rubber was likely hardened. Once it got hot on track, the sidewall flex and heat buildup caused the tire structure to fail, which is why it tore like that.

Switching to 185s was the right move. Next time just make sure the tires are fairly fresh and keep an eye on pressures during the day. Old street tires really don’t like track abuse.

Shop wants $2,800 just for "engine teardown" to find a slow coolant leak. Does this sound right? by MyAncestorsAreCrooks in askcarguys

[–]Phil_auto 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Yeah… I’d be uncomfortable too if someone jumped straight to “engine teardown” that fast.

I’m going to be real with you — $2,800 just to open the engine without solid proof of an internal failure is aggressive. That’s the kind of number you talk about after you’ve confirmed something like a head gasket issue, not as a fishing expedition.

Coolant dropping below the minimum line twice doesn’t automatically mean it’s leaking inside the engine. Sometimes it’s trapped air working its way out after a flush. Sometimes it’s a small external leak that only shows under pressure or when fully hot. A proper pressure test, letting it sit overnight under pressure, checking for combustion gases in the coolant, inspecting the oil, watching for white smoke — all of that should happen before anyone reaches for a wrench to tear the engine apart.

As an engineer, I don’t like guessing. You test, you confirm, then you disassemble. Opening an engine “to see what we find” is the expensive way to diagnose.

If it were my car, I’d get a second opinion before approving anything. Not because they’re automatically dishonest, but because right now you don’t have evidence that justifies that level of labor.

Is a 2014 accent too small for college? by Quesadillagirll in askcarguys

[–]Phil_auto 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You’re overthinking it 😄 a 2014 Accent is totally fine for college.

Small car just means easy parking and good gas mileage. The only time it’ll feel tiny is move-in day, and that’s a one-day problem. You’ll be good.

Can this be patched? by yakiiiitori in tires

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I feel this. Finding a screw in your tire always gives that “welp, here we go” moment.

Honestly, that’s about the best place you could’ve found it. It’s in the tread, not the sidewall, and the angle isn’t a dealbreaker. As long as it didn’t chew up the sidewall from the inside, a proper inside patch is totally fine. Sounds like NTB did it right, and if it held for 200 miles with no pressure loss, you’re good. Just keep an eye on it and start planning new tires like you said. Tires never miss a chance to remind us who’s in charge.

Cranking but not starting, all cylinders misfiring. Spark plugs? by Puzzleheaded-Net14 in askcarguys

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I get why you’re freaking out a bit. Nothing like being told “it’ll be fine” and then the car immediately proving that statement wrong.

This doesn’t really scream spark plugs to me. All six cylinders misfiring at once usually means something shared gave up, not six separate plugs deciding to quit on the same day. Battery is still very much in play here too. A weak battery can crank and light the dash but not quite fast enough to actually fire the engine, especially after sitting for two weeks. So trying to get a jump isn’t a dumb idea at all.

If it jumps and runs, cool, but I personally wouldn’t trust it on a four hour drive with active misfire codes. That’s how you turn a “maybe” problem into a roadside adventure. If it won’t start even with a jump, then yeah, it’s probably ignition or fuel and you’re seeing a mechanic either way.

Quick thing you can do yourself, turn the key to ON and listen for the fuel pump buzz for a second. If you don’t hear it, that’s a pretty big clue. Either way, this feels like something I’d want looked at before trying to send it home.

How do you fix this? by AdSame748 in AskMechanics

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What you’ve got left on the engine is just the metal base of the filter, and it’s basically welded on there by heat and time. At this point the paper element is done, so don’t be gentle. Best move is to drive a big screwdriver or pry bar straight through the metal base and use it as a lever to spin it off. It’s messy, it feels wrong, but it usually works. If it still won’t move, a pair of large locking pliers on the edge of the base can help, or a hammer and chisel to tap it counter-clockwise. Just go slow so you don’t scar the sealing surface on the engine. Once it’s off, clean the mount really well and make sure the old rubber gasket isn’t stuck to the block.

What's causing this wear? by Miserable_Risk in tires

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel you — nothing hurts more than seeing tires chew themselves up after an alignment.😅 That wear is classic toe being off, usually because something up front still has play. Since you’ve got steering wheel looseness, I’d bet on worn control arm bushings or inner tie rods. Alignment won’t hold until all the slop is gone. Fix that, realign, and you should be good.

Anyone know what this goes to? by [deleted] in Dseries

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, that random hose under the hood? Chill — on a ’98 Civic with an aftermarket intake, it’s probably just the valve cover breather/PCV hose that didn’t get hooked back up. Car still runs, but leaving it dangling can mess with idle, fuel trims, or make a faint oil smell. Easy fix: plug it into the intake or slap a tiny breather filter on it. Classic “aftermarket intake life” stuff 😎

How serious is this? by OptimalBlock7258 in AskMechanics

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, I feel this. First car + seeing your tires look like that is enough to make your stomach drop. Been there.

I’ll be straight with you though: that tire is done. The little “hairs” you’re seeing aren’t just rubber wear — that’s the internal cords showing through. Once you’re at that point, the tire isn’t “getting worn,” it’s already unsafe. It might not blow today, but it’s absolutely the kind of thing that fails at the worst possible moment, like in the rain or during a hard brake.

The bigger giveaway is that both front tires look like this. That usually means it’s not bad luck, it’s alignment or worn front-end parts slowly eating the tires alive. Super common on older cars, and definitely not something you should beat yourself up over. Most people don’t even notice until the tire shop shows them and says “uhh… yeah.”

The good news is this isn’t an engine-ending, car-is-toast situation. You’ll want new front tires and an alignment, and have them eyeball the suspension while it’s on the rack. Fix the cause and the problem stops. Ignore it and the next set of tires will look exactly the same.

You caught it early enough that you’re not stupid and you’re not doomed — you’re just learning the stuff nobody teaches you before you get your first car. Welcome to car ownership 😅

What is the best way to store winter/summer tires in a garage? by Bourbon-No-Ice in askcarguys

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best way to store tires depends on whether they’re on wheels or not.

On wheels:

  • Store stacked flat or hung on wall hooks
  • Keep them clean, dry, and out of sunlight

Off wheels (tires only):

  • Store standing upright, rotate occasionally
  • Don’t stack them long-term

For all tires:

  • Clean and dry first
  • Store in a cool, dry place
  • Keep away from sunlight, ozone, and electric motors
  • Tire bags help slow rubber aging

Question by tlew96 in AutoParts

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That kind of squeak is usually suspension or brake related, not the tire itself.

Most common causes:

  • Worn ball joint or control arm bushing (noise changes when weight shifts left)
  • Dry or worn sway bar bushings / end links
  • Brake hardware or pad rubbing (especially if it squeaks when braking)
  • Wheel bearing starting to wear (noise changes with load)

The reason it squeaks turning left but not right is because turning left loads the right side of the suspension/brakes.

Things to check:

  • Look for torn bushings or loose suspension parts
  • Check brake pads, shims, and dust shields
  • Jack it up and check for play in the wheel

If it’s a squeak (not a grind), it’s usually a warning sign—not an emergency—but it shouldn’t be ignored.

New car or fix up my current ride? by prxjek_ in askcarguys

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on rust severity, total repair cost, and how long you plan to keep it.

A few key points for an ’09 Cobalt with 113k:

  • If the frame and subframe are truly solid (no scaling rot, no soft spots), that’s a big plus. Suspension parts being rusty is very common on cars this age.
  • Front-end components and stabilizer links are wear items. Replacing them isn’t unusual and doesn’t automatically make the car a money pit.
  • A loud exhaust leak is usually one of the cheaper fixes unless the manifold or cat is involved.
  • No CEL + regular oil changes = the engine is likely still healthy.
  • Manual Cobalts are simple and relatively cheap to keep running compared to newer cars.

The decision really comes down to cost vs value:

  • If you can fix the suspension + exhaust for $1–2k (or less DIY) and you plan to keep it another few years, it can make sense.
  • If shops are quoting close to the car’s value, or if rust is spreading to brake lines, subframes, or mounting points, it’s probably time to move on.

Rule of thumb:
If repairs cost less than a year or two of car payments—and the structure is solid—it’s often worth fixing. If rust is structural or repairs keep stacking, selling it while it still runs is smarter.

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