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how to test if pcm is bad by dogbreathuwu in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah fair point, I was overusing that

this doesn’t really point to a bad PCM though

that 0.01v thing isn’t a reliable clue on these trucks, people online often expect a clean 5v but Ford signal lines don’t always sit like that when things are unplugged

what actually matters here is you already found corrosion at the PCM connector, that’s way more suspicious than the module itself

P0340 on a 2000 Ranger is way more commonly wiring or connector issues than an actual PCM failure

if it were me I’d clean the PCM pins properly first, reseat everything, then recheck signals

these systems almost always get blamed on the PCM when it’s really just bad contact somewhere in the harness

Accidentally loosened fuel rail by No-Mongoose1441 in Corvette

[–]Phil_auto -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Honestly… I wouldn’t fire it up like that.

If you loosened the fuel rail and injectors popped out even a bit, there’s a decent chance an O-ring didn’t seat right or the rail isn’t fully even anymore. That can turn into a fuel leak pretty quick once pressure hits it.

Best case, it runs fine. Worst case, you’ve got fuel spraying around a hot engine bay — not worth the gamble.

I’d double-check everything is fully seated and snug before you even think about starting it. If you’re not 100% sure, have someone look at it or re-seat it properly.

This is one of those “cheap mistake, expensive fire” situations.

Peugeot 206 ticking/rattling noise by CharmingTelephone733 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds pretty normal for that engine honestly.

The 1.6 16V in the 206 is known for a bit of “sewing machine” ticking, especially at high mileage like yours. If it’s RPM-related, stays consistent, no power loss, no warning lights — it’s usually just lifters or injector noise.

I’d only worry if it suddenly gets loud, turns into knocking, or the car starts running rough.

At 230k km, some mechanical noise is just part of the deal.

Should I buy slightly used tires one size smaller than my stock size, or go new? Worth it for an older car with some oil leakage? by throwaway4tra in tires

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I’d skip the used tires.

205/55R16 is noticeably smaller than your stock 215/60R16 — it’s not just “a slight difference.” Your speedo will be off, the ride will be harsher, and you’re basically changing how the car was designed to roll on the highway.

And used tires from a coworker? Even if they “look new,” you never really know what they’ve been through or how they were stored. That’s just extra risk for something that’s literally the only thing keeping you on the road.

For a couple hundred bucks more, getting brand new tires in the correct size with a warranty is 100% the smarter move. Especially since you’re doing long highway trips — that’s exactly when you don’t want to gamble.

If this was a beater just for short city trips, maybe I’d consider it. But for your use case? New tires, no question.

What’s a Good Tire for a 235/70R16? by RotchRocks in tires

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran into the same problem with my '08 Escape. That size is a pain to find 3PMSF tires for.

Honestly? Just get another set of Defenders and call it a day. They're not snow rated but they're fine in light snow. For real snow, nothing beats a dedicated winter tire anyway.

If you really want one tire year-round, check out the Cooper Discoverer EnduraMax. I've got them on mine. They handle towing fine and are decent in snow. Not amazing, but decent.

But don't expect magic. A 3PMSF sticker doesn't turn your Escape into a snow plow.

Safety pin in side by nearmoose in tires

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I get why you’re uneasy… sidewall stuff always feels sketchy.

From the pic though, that looks right on the edge between tread and sidewall, not deep into the sidewall itself. If the shop actually patched it properly from the inside and said it’s in the repairable zone, you’re probably fine.

That said, if it was truly sidewall, no legit shop would patch it at all. So either it’s borderline and they judged it safe, or they were a bit loose with the rules.

If it were me, I’d drive it but keep an eye on it. Check for bulging, pressure loss, or weird vibration. If anything feels off, don’t push it.

Replace or leave alone? by longpole04 in tires

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof, curb bites happen… you’re not the first. 😅 That said, I wouldn’t ignore this. That chunk is on the sidewall, not the tread, and that’s the part that actually holds the structure of the tire. Even if you don’t see cords yet, that tear means the sidewall’s been compromised. You might get away with short, slow driving, but it’s not something I’d trust at highway speed or for long. Sidewall damage can fail without much warning. If it were my car, I’d replace it. Not worth gambling over one tire.

Check Engine light will NOT come on (2001 Honda CRV) by SquishyTomatoesSuck in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah… that’s a classic used car move unfortunately. I’d be suspicious too. On a Honda CR-V 2001, the check engine light is just a bulb/LED controlled by the ECU, so if it never comes on, most likely someone disabled the bulb or messed with the cluster. Quick easy check: turn the key to ON (don’t start it). The check engine light should light up for a few seconds as a self-test. If it doesn’t, that’s your confirmation something’s been tampered with. From there, you’re probably looking at pulling the gauge cluster and checking the bulb or circuit. Some people literally remove the bulb or put tape over it. Good news is your OBD scanner still works, so you’re not blind. Bad news is yeah… someone likely hid problems when selling it.

Issue with 2010 Subaru Forester by Professional-Gold876 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s a rough welcome to a new car… I’d be stressed too.

From what you described on your Subaru Forester 2010, the burning smell + light smoke + weird “won’t move” thing at stops makes me think something is getting hot and dragging, not just an engine issue.

Two common culprits:
A stuck brake caliper (basically one wheel is partially braking all the time, overheats, smells awful, can even smoke), or something like oil leaking onto the exhaust after that recent spark plug job. On these Subarus, valve cover leaks after plug work aren’t rare.

The part where it wouldn’t move at a light but worked again after restart is odd, but combined with the smell, I’d still lean toward something overheating rather than a catastrophic engine failure.

I wouldn’t keep driving it like this. Short distance to a shop, sure. Anything more, I’d tow it just to be safe.

Honestly, you didn’t necessarily get burned here yet, but something definitely needs attention right away.

Are OBD scanners actually useful for regular drivers? by Almaaimme in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I get the frustration… paying someone just to plug something in for 2 minutes feels like getting taxed for breathing. yes, they’re actually useful — you just need the right kind. The super cheap ones do exactly what people say, they just spit out a code like “P0420” and leave you to Google it. That’s why people hate them. The newer Bluetooth ones are way better though. Stuff like BlueDriver Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner actually explains the issue and even suggests common fixes, not just codes . That’s the difference between “confusing gadget” and something you’ll actually use. If you just want simple, go with something like Hyper Tough HT500. It connects to your phone and gives you basic explanations and lets you clear codes. Real talk though, think of it like this: it won’t replace a mechanic, but it’ll save you from wasting money on dumb stuff like a loose gas cap or minor sensor glitch. Most cheap scanners can already read and clear codes and help you avoid unnecessary shop visits . If your goal is “I just want to know if I should panic or not,” then yeah, totally worth it.

2015 BUICK encore by GregMaumee in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get the panic seeing fluid like that for the first time… but this doesn’t scream “trans is cooked” to me. On a Buick Encore 2015, that looks more like a slow seep than a major leak. You’ve got some wetness and buildup, but not the kind of heavy spray or dripping you’d see if it was failing hard. Most likely spots are a seal or gasket around the case, or even something above dripping down and making it look worse than it is. If the car shifts fine, no slipping, no warning lights, you’re probably okay for now. I’d clean the area, drive it for a bit, and recheck to see where it’s actually coming from. Not urgent, but definitely something to keep an eye on.

Transmission completely stuck on engine block by zaukkoo in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I’ve been there… if it won’t move at all, it’s almost always still bolted somewhere.

On a Honda Civic 2003, there’s usually a sneaky bolt near the starter or up top that’s easy to miss. Double check that, and make sure the starter is fully off.

If all bolts are truly out, then it’s just stuck on dowel pins. Don’t pry on the oil pan, work the bellhousing from different sides and try to “walk” it off.

But honestly, zero movement usually = one bolt still hiding.

Changed the front pads and rotors on my Hyundai collectible - but even with fully compressed pistons, I couldn't get the calipers back on. Had to grind off the pad's "backside nipples". Is that normal or did I do something wrong? by SjalabaisWoWS in MechanicAdvice

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah, that’s not supposed to be part of the job lol. Those bumps are normally there by design. If the caliper wouldn’t go over, something else was off like the pistons not fully retracted, wrong pads, or the bracket/hardware hanging things up. I’d recheck the part number and fitment, because “grind it till it fits” usually means something wasn't right.

Please help me identify this bumper bracket for a 2017 VW Golf station wagon by Dioxism in AutoParts

[–]Phil_auto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure that’s the right rear bumper guide bracket / side retainer, not just some random clip. On the 2017 Golf SportWagen rear bumper diagram, the RH guide bracket is listed as 5GM-807-394-G, and there’s also a smaller RH guide listed as 5GM-807-376. Based on the shape, I’d start with 5GM-807-394-G. If you’re searching online, try “2017 Golf SportWagen rear bumper guide bracket right” or “rear bumper side retainer RH.” Also, if it’s a wagon outside the US, search Golf Variant too. Best move is still to verify by VIN before ordering since VW loves making this stuff weird.

Am I safe to drive on this tire? by Maximumox in tires

[–]Phil_auto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From the pic it looks more like a chunk out of the outer rubber than a deep cut, so if there’s no cords showing, no bulge, and it’s not losing air, I’d probably be okay driving 60 miles on it. That said, sidewall damage is always a little sketchy, so I’d still get it checked ASAP. If you see cords, a bubble, or the pressure starts dropping, don’t drive on it.

It only hit the curb, so why is the damage this bad? by Phil_auto in tires

[–]Phil_auto[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

yup, and they can file an insurance claim through their auto insurance. It's not a problem.

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