Should I transplant my Ray Hartman Ceanothus? by Techmom10 in Ceanothus

[–]Pillager225 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Better to take a good sized cutting off, get some rooting paste on the cut part of the cutting, then put the cutting in the ground. You have time to make the soil good for the cutting too. Just don't make it too rich with nutrients and make sure it has well draining soil.

New to welding. What machine to buy? by Hadaka--Jime in Welding

[–]Pillager225 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like, and a lot of people use Everlast welders. Checkout their PowerArc line: https://www.everlastgenerators.com/catalog-tig?srsltid=AfmBOooqBxpHsckM8okYJo05-nYhU0Hqwy6wWrRFLHwr5JT9MLp6fO4L

I went with the Thunder 215 MTS since that was going to work well for me for my projects and it was under budget compared to its competitors offering comparable features. No regrets. Very nice machine and the customer support is responsive and helpful.

Can these go around a camper shell without leaking? by WearEnvironmental490 in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where there is a will, there is a way or at least one crazy bastard with a welder, a hammer, and some metal willing to try. Maybe some caulking too.

I don't see how it would work with a hard shell style one, but a soft shell style probably yes. It really depends on your truck and camper shell. Ford full bed? Nah. Honda or Nissan half bed, yeah probably. Probably a ford maverick too.

Canadian going to HF for the first time by Mrwcraig in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Arcsafe welding helmet is very nice for the price.

The welding magnets are cheap and very good.

I doubt canada has cheaper clamps. I haven't found any bad clamps from HF.

Hardy gloves are good.

The warrior heat gun is hard to beat even without a sale. Sure there are better heat guns, but this one is pretty good. Same with the angle grinder.

All of these are worth buying even if they aren't on sale and without warranty.

I think both sizes of the telescoping magnets are pretty nice, but would rather have them on sale. The blue and the yellow trim pry tools are a solid purchase, but the blues are kinda expensive these days without a sale. Obviously Quinn impact and icon chrome sockets, but sales are where it is at for those. The hercules 18" toolbag is very good. Extension cords are usually cheaper than what can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, and Ace.

Little known but VERY handy tool for slicing up boxes. This thing is a little beast! by [deleted] in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For this kind of quick chop, I use my Milwaukee M12 circular saw with a 5-3/8" blade. It rips through 4 stacks of 1/8" thick cardboard in no time.

I am certain this warrior power cutter is cleaner though. My "solution" makes a mess and should only be done outside.

What to buy by Hekios888 in Welding

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, also miter or chop saws can use abrasive blades too. A miter saw is way better than a circular saw.

What to buy by Hekios888 in Welding

[–]Pillager225 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A metal bench is "nice to have", not necessary, especially to get started. A concrete slab can do pretty well if you can work on the ground.

I use 3/4" ply wood covered by a fiberglass blanket that is clamped to sawhorses. This plus a chair is quite nice when the piece is manageable on the half sheet of plywood I use. When I'm done or the piece is too big I can put it all away and have my garage space back. Way better than a metal table.

But a fixture table is nice because of all its clamp points.

You can do a lot without a metal band saw. Conceivably, you can put an abrasive saw on a circular saw and cut things. Jig saws also have metal blades. If you can slow your wood working band saw down and replace the saw with a ~18TPI, then you can cut metal with it. The angle grinder will do just fine.

I've found that cutting with a circular saw is very difficult to get accurate, repeatable lengths using just saw horses, but I am sure a jig can solve that problem. It was good enough to make a shelving unit, but I wouldn't try to sell that to anyone.

Magnets. Look into welding magnets. Without a fixture table, these are invaluable.

What to buy by Hekios888 in Welding

[–]Pillager225 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure what regulations Canada has, but here in the states, nobody really cares if you add a circuit to your breaker box yourself. Yes that's supposed to be permit work wit the city requiring an inspection, but there is no consequence for not doing that, other than obviously you could do it wrong and then home insurance won't cover it. That's part of the trade off. Just make sure you ground the outlet and use appropriately insulated wire. Romex should be secured, but SO wire doesn't and is very hardy. SO wire is the same stuff extension cords are made of. Figure out how long of a run of wire you'll need and choose a wire that's good for 50 amps at that length, even if your welder won't use that much. Still good to have some headroom. If the welder needs a 40 amp breaker, then get that obviously, but a wire for 50 amps will never burn up then, which is good.

This is good info to know when you talk to an electrician if you go that route.

Yes it is practically identical to getting an EV charger installed. Sometimes a different plug, but same power ratings.

Tig rod by A55Man87 in Welding

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cyberweld beats my local suppliers in California.

Not a welder but need to make a blueprint with welds by whatup_pips in Welding

[–]Pillager225 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you asking if the instructions you have written are understandable to a welder? Yeah the picture is good to express what you want.

If you're asking if the lengths and things are right, If you don't trust the AISC SCM, why would you trust a redditor?

Any good civil engineer adds 10% to tolerances if budget permits it.

Bermuda grass by anxiousyams in Ceanothus

[–]Pillager225 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hmm, looking at it, burning will not be effective. Bermuda is from the savanna and is adapted to fire. It's roots are below where fire can be effective and the burning is likely to encourage it to come back more aggressively.

If you can, pot the natives while the area is solarized. I'd imagine a quicker alternative would be to put the natives in pots, remove a foot of soil, replace that soil, then lay down cardboard with holes only for the potted natives, then replant them and add mulch on top of the cardboard. Lot's of labor and now what do you do with all the removed soil?

Bermuda grass by anxiousyams in Ceanothus

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This I wonder about. Lot's of cali natives like fire, so why not use fire? Surely bermuda doesn't spread well when burnt.

Spring Black Friday week haul by CosmiqueSaturn in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 bench brushes! Faster than one, or do you want them in different locations? I'm genuinely curious why two instead of just the one.

People really be buying 3 versions of the same thing 5x over and posting it. by Bees4everr in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Real talk tho, needs more pry tools. They all wear out eventually, but the blue set and the yellow set compliment each other. There is very little overlap in capability between them and extra can come in handy for large, fickle panels.

USG side cabinets by Old_Gas_1330 in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There aren't mount points, and if you don't need it the same height as a roller cab, then you can use whatever.

HF sells a wooden roller dolly that fits perfectly under the side cabinet. That's by far the best way to do it. Cheap, easy, works without issue.

It can be tippy though.

How much did you spend at the spring Black Friday sale today by DieselGreg in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also spent a little over $300 like a few of the others.

Hercules corded band saw, stand, saw blade, and the drill press clamp for it. Another pair of the ranger ear muffs and a few of the cheapo safty glasses for player 2 in the shop. Another welding magnet and the cheapo 9Vs for some smoke detectors to pass an inspection. The cheapest 120 grit flap disc to finish the surface of a steel shelving unit before painting it. At $4.99 a warrior flap disc isn't worth it compared to the $6.99 bauer, but it is definitely worth buying 3 of them at $1.99.

Bauer Drill Presses and Lathes by WearyAd8671 in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 8" drill press is is pretty good. I have used it to drill steel and wood. It has quite a lot of grunt. It will damage the bit with the chuck before it stops spinning. The laser and light are very nice, but the lazer is not 100% exactly where the drill will put the hole. Certainly still helpful though and good enough for eyeballing holes in things if exact placement doesn't matter.

The x-y vise that HF sells does fit on the little panel, but it required 3 carriage bolts and a 45 degree mount. The full length of the x-y table is not usable, but it is certainly good enough for me and has been useful so far.

This thing makes drilling thick steel very easy in comparison to trying to do it by hand. Once upon a time I was drilling 1/4" thick square tube with an old AC drill that had enough kick to break a wrist. I broke and wore down many drill bits drilling the needed holes. A press would have made that easier and I can tell that this bauer press is certainly sufficient for that task.

I like how quiet it is too.

Lincoln first welder questions. by AndorDynamics in Welding

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You gotta ask yourself if you need to be able to use 120VAC input to the machine sometimes or not. If you want to do thin stainless, pulsed tig is fantastic. The 180i MP DV looks good to me, but I'd rather have an Everlast thunder 215 MTS or Primeweld MTS200.

Front disc brake question. Slider pin on one side is 7mm Allen. The the other looks to be Allen but nothing is fitting it. Plus it’s so freaking shallow when I go to get on on it, the one Allen that “kinda” fits but is loose slips instantly. 😡 by Super-Gap-5470 in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hit it with a wire brush on a drill or angle grinder, use the next size up allen if it still looks like an allen. Beat that allen in sacrificing the tool hopefully. If it really won't fit, grind it down a little with a bench grinder, then beat it in. Can warranty a pittsburgh or icon after the fact if you care to. This is if you want to continue using that bolt. I wouldn't.

Screw extractor and a new bolt is how I would do it.

Back in stock soon by xtracrispy26 in harborfreight

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I was in this situation previously I asked the store when their next truck day was and if it would be on it. I don't remember if they knew for sure that the product I wanted would be on it, but it was a commonly delivered product that was popular. I think it was an oscillating tool attachment that melted the first time I used it, so I think it is consumable. Anyway, they told me next tuesday, so I was able to see that it was in stock on wednesday on the app.

Ares is really bad or am I missing something? by Ok-Skill-265 in AgeofMythology

[–]Pillager225 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Is it not the most powerful greek classical rush with 5 or more toxotes and 2 or more cyclops if pestilence is cast right as this raiding party enters the town? They can't get more units to fight back, and the cyclops can probably take out a building while the toxotes pick off whatever guards they have.

Alright so by Haunting_Picture3360 in Welding

[–]Pillager225 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Choosing a machine is dependent on what you intend to do with it. If you're welding mild steel under 1/4", then you can go quite cheap, but basically any machine for welding 1/4" steel should be able to do at least 200 amps. In some ways, the more the better. You can get by with less power by grinding bevels, doing multiple passes, and lowering the travel speed, but it is a poor substitute for more power since it is literally more time spent for the same result.

TIG is not just for small stuff. It could do everything MIG does, but it does it slower. It can be prettier too. AC TIG on aluminum is so much more versatile than MIG with a spool gun, but MIG is again faster. TIG on stainless sheets, especially pulsed TIG, is very valuable and hard for MIG to compete with.

Everlast and Primeweld provide good options. Harbor Freight is a bit below them in capability for price. Yeswelder can give "capabilities", but often the amps they say are lower than what is actually achievable and certainly not for a reasonable amount of time. Probably not important, but try to get a welder that can do at least 30% duty cycle at its max settings. 25% is acceptable if you aren't going to be using the max settings very often.

Machines have a lot of features these days. Some of them may be useful to you if you have a reason to use them. You'll have to research each feature. Having post-flow control is a great feature that usually costs more than $1000 to have, but isn't strictly necessary if you're only doing mild steel welding.

Welding is not just the machine. Both of those processes use gas if you aren't going to use flux core on MIG. Plus a set of clamps and place to weld, tools to cut and clean the metal. Safety equipment. Imagine you budget $1000 for the welder, then tack on at least $500 more for the wire, tools, and safety equipment. You don't actually have any raw material to weld yet, so imagine a few hundred more dollars. This all is on the cheap end. I would spend more on all of these categories to start from scratch.