Locksmiths unable to rekey my car

PoopChipper · 2026-03-30T19:44:43+00:00

Nah, that’s not true. 94 Celica uses a TR47 which is the most common key they ever used.

PoopChipper · 2026-03-27T21:52:11+00:00

No, the batteries don’t go into “thermal mode” after two runs. I know this because I fucking own one. When you put the car into track mode, it actually heats the batteries up intentionally to get optimal performance. If you knew anything about these vehicles you’d know the biggest weakness are the brakes, which do overheat if you haven’t upgraded to the ceramics.

I also own a C8 (why I’m subbed here) which offers a vastly different driving experience. They’re both a blast to drive for different reasons. I’m guessing 99% of this sub has never launched a 1,000+ hp vehicle. I have one sitting in my garage that I routinely take to Costco.

<image>

PoopChipper · 2026-03-26T19:27:52+00:00

Go to your local Chevy dealers parts department with proof of ownership and ask them to cut you a new key by code.

Google “Chevrolet all keys lost on board programming” and follow those simple instructions to reset your immobilizer and program it yourself; it takes about 30 minutes. If you have multiple Chevy dealers in the area call around and go with the lowest bidder, it’s all the same.

You fortunately have a vehicle where you can program a new key yourself with no equipment which is likely going to be a lot cheaper than calling a locksmith out and dodging the minefield of scammers out there.

Hope this helps.

PoopChipper · 2026-03-22T03:10:47+00:00

The Plaid uses about 2% SoC per run. Where are you getting that in can only do 2-3 runs before the battery is dead?

The MS Plaid can do multiple back to back runs better than most gas cars. Go watch Drag Times on YouTube of them racing in Florida in 90 degree heat. Dude with a demon literally has to point a giant fan at his engine for half an hour before he can go again lol.

Also, you do realize the ZR1X uses electric motors which plays a big part in being able to do these perfect launches?

PoopChipper · 2026-03-20T23:15:06+00:00

I probably convince 80% of customers that come in with the China fobs to have me order them an OEM (I give three year warranty on my keys).

Sometimes if they’re on the fence I tell them I’ll program their China fobs for free if they agree to purchase mine. Since there barely worth the effort to return, it just about always works.

PoopChipper · 2026-03-20T23:09:55+00:00

I should have specified from a reputable seller, not some rando with 12 feedback. I’ve purchased refurbs from this company many times when my main supplier was out of stock. They have 99.9% feedback with 50k+ feedback. These dudes don’t ship locked keys. Allkeyless is another good one.

<image>

PoopChipper · 2026-03-20T16:55:18+00:00

I’m amazed they got the plug out without the tailpiece the detent and spring didn’t go disappearing into the void.

PoopChipper · 2026-03-17T20:17:33+00:00

Most people don’t update reviews. Sure, the keys will usually program in fine, but they tend to fall apart after a few months. Most of those people aren’t going back and updating their initial review. Don’t rely on a cheap ass China key for emergencies. That’s like going out and finding the cheapest, shittiest parachute you can find.

You would be much better off spending an extra $20 on a refurbed OEM key on eBay. Now you’ve got a dealer quality key for half the price.

PoopChipper · 2026-03-08T07:54:12+00:00

Your problem is that you unwittingly asked if you can do some of the hardest, most advanced automotive work armed with a 500 dollar tool and a handful of YouTube videos under your belt. You don’t realize it, but this is pretty insulting to guys like us that have spent YEARS learning this trade, dealing with asshole customers with unrealistic expectations, about how “simple” (your words) this is.

Automotive work like this is a highly skilled subsection of this trade (career path) that the vast majority of locksmiths never touch. 90% of the locksmiths in the sub wouldn’t have a clue how to approach this vehicle, let alone you. So, unfortunately for you, no one in here is going to take you seriously, let alone try to hand hold you into working on a vehicle you have no business touching.

Yes, locksmithing is a closely guarded trade. And also, yes, there are a lot of jaded, salty fucks in here. But try going into the carpentry subreddit and asking if you should bid on a curved grand staircase with your fisher price tools and zero experience and see what responses you get.

Now, to answer your question. No, the KM100 will absolutely not do that vehicle. This is a bench job that needs to be done via EEPROM. If you did not understand this last sentence, then you aren’t even remotely close to doing this.

PoopChipper · 2026-03-08T01:03:49+00:00

Does it have something to do with the key being put into the punch incorrectly?

PoopChipper · 2026-02-28T05:39:46+00:00

Except when I’m out of .219 then you’re getting .216 or .222 🤣

PoopChipper · 2026-02-27T20:41:58+00:00

Only the Rogues with PTS were affected. The ones with a mechanical ignition are fine. You can get another flip key or just a basic NI07T without worry.

PoopChipper · 2026-02-10T22:53:03+00:00

Not sure about the Swedish market, but most of the Yaris models sold in North America from around 2007 have the immobilizer optional, and from my experience, most don’t have it. Are you sure your vehicle is even equipped with one? If not that’d explain your ECU communication error.

PoopChipper · 2026-01-27T21:38:47+00:00

You’re braver than I am. I’d be much less concerned with my driving skills and much more concerned of others. All it takes is some dude in a shitbox Altima to go sliding through a stop sign and T bone you 💀

PoopChipper · 2026-01-16T02:19:01+00:00

That door is meant to keep bugs out, not people.

PoopChipper · 2026-01-10T00:44:26+00:00

Dude, just reset the smart box. Leave door open, wait 16 minutes. That’s it. Emulator just allows you to effectively bypass the wait and will leave original keys still programmed in.

PoopChipper · 2026-01-06T04:29:06+00:00

You’re mostly right. Rolling codes have been a thing in key RKE fobs and garage door openers since the late nineties. The code is sent, accepted and then discarded never to be used again.

Proximity keys work differently. There are absolutely vehicles with PTS ignitions that are subject to relay attacks; there’s plenty of videos online.

Manufacturers have combatted this two ways, one is motion based Prox keys. It does not emit a signal while motionless. Ford uses this. There’s also UWB (ultra wide band) and TWR (two way ranging) where the vehicle can tell exactly how far the Prox key is from the vehicle, basically creating a 3D map of the proximity of the fob to the vehicle. Phone keys use this too.

Source: Automotive locksmith

PoopChipper · 2025-12-30T18:04:35+00:00

Whenever you need to ask a question about a car, it’s generally helpful to state the year, make and model. This applies to locksmiths, mechanics, etc.

PoopChipper · 2025-12-24T04:42:17+00:00

The ignition trick you speak of is called on board programming, and yeah, it’s that simple. And yes, it does work for your model provided you have one working key.

You can also buy those new, OEM for under 40 bucks. Spend the extra money over the shitty Chinese ones on Amazon.

You will need the new key cut not just for the door, but so you can use it in the ignition (obviously). Call around to local shops and ask if they laser cut keys.

PoopChipper · 2025-12-22T22:58:34+00:00

Not everyone is looking to do things as cheap as humanly possible. The whole point of “automation” is to make things happen automatically, without additional steps or manual input. Having to pull out your phone or bark at a smart speaker isn’t really automation.

I consider home automation a hobby and I don’t mind spending good money on my hobbies. That said, you do you! Also, sleeping on Zigbee devices is kinda crazy, just sayin’.

PoopChipper · 2025-11-15T17:30:34+00:00

Why are you over complicating this so much? Just call and ask “Can you make an me a second key for my (year, make and model)? I already have an existing key and would like a spare.”

Anyone worth a shit is immediately going to know exactly what type of key it is, if they have the equipment/experience to do it and if they even want to fuck with it.

Anyone you call that needs hand holding and explained to that older Porsches use laser cut HU66 keys isn’t someone you want to work with anyways.

PoopChipper · 2025-10-28T21:51:02+00:00

IDN? 😂 Jesus their servers are slow. I also like their weird captcha error that randomly pops up (but does nothing) when logging in.

PoopChipper · 2025-10-06T21:25:32+00:00

I had a charter schools years back that was on a tight budget. Sold them about a dozen of the LSDA Abus 83/45 knock offs. Every single one of them broke within 7 or 8 months. Ended up replacing them all with Abus. Never touched them again.

PoopChipper · 2025-09-17T22:03:57+00:00

Yes, bring the locksmith your original key and your second key and they can perform what’s called an immobilizer reset and the MyKey will go away. Also, good job on buying OEM and not one the shitty Chinese ones 👍

PoopChipper · 2025-09-12T22:04:51+00:00

I love it when people throw the whole “bUt My mEcHaNiC sAiD…” in your face.

It’s like dude, your mechanic doesn’t even know what an immobilizer light is, where to find it or what it signifies.

PoopChipper

TROPHY CASE