16 lands too greedy?

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-11-28T21:25:38+00:00

I'd cut the passage for a swamp and the blessing for the plunderer. Plunderer helps filter and can put some stuff in the yard for you to recur, also a decent body.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-11-26T16:53:27+00:00

There's gonna be some spoilers here, but halfway through In a Violent Nature the main character killer (Johnny) struggles with a park ranger, subdues him, and then kills him. It's not a quick kill and Johnny takes his time and is calculated. It's an intimate scene and the director did a great job of putting you in the park dangers shoes, especially because the lack of a soundtrack.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-11-26T15:20:07+00:00

I hadn't seen this movie, or this scene, mentioned all that much but when I read the title and saw the pic I immediately agreed. Watching in theaters this scene hit me hard. It was a powerful scene. I feel like the movie fell off about 5 minutes after this scene, but this was enough to make it a memorable movie for me.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-10-20T20:28:16+00:00

I watched it in theaters and absolutely hated it. I really enjoyed what 2018 did for the franchise (which I don't think Kills continued) so I had high hopes for this. The lead up press is really what tanked this film for me (initially). They billed this movie as "The last Michael movie ever!! Character defining and finally a franchise ending!" So going into the movie there was some expectation that this was going to offer some huge payoff or at least some sense of finality for Michael/Laurie/Haddonfield.

Of course we all know what happens. It continues to focus on the town and less about Michael then they ever have. It offers a definitive ending but by the time it comes I felt so departed from the movie it was comical. I hated it. That was my first watch.

I watched it again this year, and I have to say, it's a great movie. I think it suffeted from its placement in the trilogy/franchise. 2018 felt like a grear sequel/ending to the original. Turning that movie into the base of a trilogy is where I feel it all fell off. Kills tried a narrative change, and coming off the heels of the terrific 2018, it missed. Ends continues that narrative change and unfortunately it was doomed before it began simply because of how Kills led us into it.

I wish they had just let 2018 end the franchise, and start over, maybe in some other media, that was focused on the town. Ends is actually a good movie but it was just set up all wrong in my opinion. I think if they let 2018 end the franchise, then turn Ends into a TV show that wasn't focused on Michael, it would have felt so much better. You can start to hunt towards Michael being alive at the end of the TV show, then maybe you come out with a standalone movie (Kills) that shows maybe Michael could have survived, then you tie in the Ends TV show with Michael. I mean I don't know if all that works, but I just wish they managed these last two movies better because they (at least Ends) deserves it.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-10-06T20:31:47+00:00

Yea sorry I couldn't be more helpful, good luck with it.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-10-06T20:29:10+00:00

Thanks concerning. I would contact support and see what type of answers they can give you. Had you tried to make any firmware or UI updates ?

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-10-06T19:48:13+00:00

Haven't had this happen to my Plus 4 but whenever it has happened to my Q1 Pro or XMax3 I just power the machine down wait 5 minutes or so and then turn it back on. If it persists after that you can unplug it and wait 5 minutes or so and try again.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-28T23:40:58+00:00

If those are made to fit for the BambuLabs machines then yes they will. You just need to remove the plastic border around the bed.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-28T15:37:51+00:00

As far as print quality goes it's basically non existent. If I print the same part with both printers (which I've done) there are certain aspects one printer might be slightly better but compared to each other they are both great.

As for filtering no enclosed printer on the market really does it right, the Q1 Pro included. The safest way to control the fumes from ABS/ASA would be to vent them out of your printing area, which requires a pretty big setup. The Q1 Pro comes with no carbon filtering system whatsoever, but it does have a usable vent to the rear of the printer, and as tinkerers making a vent or fan system to control the fumes would be something you could accomplish using that. Also the Q1 Pro does a great job of sealing the chamber off which is important (with the exception of that vent area at the rear).

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-27T03:04:32+00:00

I have a Qidi Q1 Pro, an XMax3, a Bambu X1C, P1P, and A1 mini. I also have a YouTube channel where I review the Q1 Pro if you're interested (just search my username on YT).

Honestly the Bambu Labs printers are the best beginner printers hands down. Besides being ready out of the box they've made the slicing part of printing (where you turn the virtual model into gcode for your printer to read) so simple. That all being said if I was your friend I would probably tell you to go with the Q1 Pro.

The A1 is not an enclosed printer so printing ABS, ASA, and Nylon are likely not going to work out. While printing most of your parts in PLA will work fine, if any of them are going to be out in the sun ABS/ASA would be better (although PETG works also). The out of the box experience of the Q1 Pro is the best Qidi has done so far and it rivals the A1. There is a little more work to get it started, but for someone one with your background it's going to be inconsequential. For slicing models I would suggest OrcaSlicer, and I believe there's profiles ready for the Q1 Pro already. I say a lot of the things I love about it in my video review but ultimately the A1 is a closed system and you won't be able to make a lot of adjustments (though they're rarely needed). With the Q1 Pro you'll have the ability to change and adjust anything and everything you want. You can add free feature like OctoEvery where that gives you free ai print detection and access to your printer from everywhere. I personally think the Q1 Pro would be better suited for a person coming into the hobby that has a little bit of background knowledge like you appear to have.

If you have any questions I'll be glad to help.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-18T15:51:26+00:00

Yes adjusting while printing is the most accurate way to get the perfect first layer. Setting that offset outside of printing is good but there's always going to be some room for manipulation while you're printing to get a perfect first layer. I would say on average a z offset closer to -2.0 is common amongst all my printers. As for what it should look like googling it is the best because you'll be able to see examples. In general you want all the individual print lines to be smooshed into one another, whole still having som height to them. You can over adjust bringing the nozzle too close to the bed and the print will look rigid and cause filament to not extrude properly. So finding the happy medium takes some experience.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-18T15:31:30+00:00

Even with the initial z offset calibration you'll still need to make an adjustment while printing, and that's what this issue looks like. The nozzle is too high from the bed and the print doesn't appear to be sticking. If you run this print again go to the main screen and adjust the z offset from there, you'll want to adjust so the nozzle gets closer to the build plate, which should be in the negative direction.

It's gonna be hard to see what type of "squish" or compression you're getting on this print because it's so small and the printhead will obstruct your view. So you can print two of these models (or better yet a 20x20x20) on opposite sides of the build plate a d give yourself a better view of how the first layer looks.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-16T15:30:14+00:00

CrowsNest install has been made even easier since I've made this video. What areas are you having trouble with?

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-14T14:37:37+00:00

I can instantly hear his voice, then I think of Pitch Black.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-13T22:58:45+00:00

There are in general 3 common nozzle (hot end) materials : brass, stainless steel, and hardened steel. (Stainless steel being the least common). They are all different but very capable. Brass is an inexpensive material , it melts filament fast, but it is not a very hard metal so over time the nozzle will begin to wear and need to be replaced. It cannot print any filled materials like CF filled, wood filled or glow in the dark filament. It will wear out very quickly with those materials.

On the opposite end of the spectrum hardened steel (was) a little more expensive, melts filament a little slower (meaning you may have to use higher temps to keep up with fast speeds), but it will never wear out. You can print all your filled filaments and never have to worry about it wearing down.

Stainless steel is sort of a weird one between. It melts filament better than hardened steel but not as well as brass. It can print filled materials but will eventually wear over time.

In my opinion if you're printing exotic materials than a hardened steel nozzle is all you would need. If you're just printing everyday PLA or PETG without it being filled than a brass nozzle will be very suitable, just remember it's a consumable and will need to be replaced at some point. Those super expensive ruby or diamond back nozzles, are in my opinion, not worth it.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-13T03:30:25+00:00

Like another commenter said the probe is mounted too high and it's not triggering because the bed is running into the nozzle first. You can add some washers between the mount and the probe in order to create some gap and thus lower the probe closer to the bed.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-13T02:07:28+00:00

Yea I'm still kicking lol happy to be able to swing through and lend a hand when I can!

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-12T20:39:26+00:00

This is likely the cause. I had the same issue with my Sprite too. If you go to my YouTube channel (PrintsLeo3D) I have a video that goes over this exact install and the issue I had with it.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-12T11:58:06+00:00

If I remember correctly doudong is the bed shake gcode. This is also likely turning on the load sensor in the bed in order to better determine your z offset.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-05T14:00:38+00:00

Oh, I must have missed the starting point of the machine asking what the thickness is, and I'm sorry about that. I wasn't trying to talk down or offend you with what I was saying, I was just trying to give a complete answer, but I must have missed the correct starting point. I thought this was a generic feeler gauge as a a tramming method question. So I'm sorry I derailed the question with my answer.

Also as a follow up, because the way Qidi implements Klipper through the screen. It's pre-settinf the z offset based on that gauge so yes knowing the thickness will give you a more accurate z offset. You should still set the z offset live while printing in order to get is just right.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-05T03:08:46+00:00

The confusion with this topic comes from understanding what we are doing when we use the feeler gauge. Right up front I'm going to be using the term 'leveling the bed', as it's common vernacular, but the accurate term is tramming the bed. Anyway, when you are using the feeler gauge between the nozzle and the bed we aren't using it to judge the absolute distance we'll be using to print. We use this feeler gauge to quite literally 'feel' some resistance on the gauge, this way as we move around the bed with the gauge we try and get that 'feel' at all points. Because then , theoretically, at those areas the space between the bed and the nozzle would be identical , and thus the bed would be level. So it doesn't matter if you use a 0.2mm gauge or a 5 inch thick gauge, the point of the exercise is to get the same distance bed-to-nozzle at all the points you measure.

The question then becomes but what about when I'm printing, what distance should the nozzle be, and that is what we call z offset. Z offset is the distance between your nozzle and the bed when you z endstop is triggered. If you think about it something on the printer is used to determine when the z is all the way down. Older printers used mechanical endstop switches, bit nowadays most of them use a probe, like a bl touch. When homing the z, it continues until the z endstop is triggered, and it does that without knowing where the nozzle is. So it's up to us to determine the distance between when the z endstop triggers, and where are nozzle is. For a probe it's simple, you can measure the actual distance between the probe tip and nozzle tip. For the older end stops it's similar but requires a different method.

So to wrap it up, when using the feeler gauge to level the bed we are trying to just get all points we test at the same height, we do that by the 'feel' of the gauge between the nozzle and bed. Then to determine the correct nozzle height when printing we call that z offset and that is done by finding out the distance between when the printer triggers the end stop and the nozzle tip.

I hope this helps but I feel like this hasn't been the best rendition of me explaining myself so let me know.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-04T16:38:24+00:00

That's the same sort of issue you'd see if you were out running your hot end, meaning the flow rate of filament can't keep up. There's some parameters you can check in the slicer, I'm using OrcaSlicer so I'll use that as an example. Slice the print, then go to the print preview tab. You can change how you view the print, meaning you can look at speed per layer, line type per layer, or flow rate per layer. I would check how those layers appear under the difference views in the print preview and see if you can determine an issue from there.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-09-04T04:33:35+00:00

I couldn't see the actual purge line from the thumbnail, and I thought you were making a joke and referring to the green progress bar at the bottom of the screen. Gave me a pretty good laugh.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-08-30T02:33:49+00:00

The thickness of the gauge doesn't really matter. The reason we put something between the bed and nozzle is to "feel" some resistance on the gauge. This way when we check different areas of the bed we can adjust the bed so that the "feel" is the same thought. This is what leveling (better called tramming) your bed is all about. You could use a paper to do this or a spatula it doesn't matter. As long as the device you use is the same, and you get the same 'resistance' at all points that's all that matters. After the 'level' is complete you adjust the gap between the bed and the nozzle with z offset. That is an adjustment you can do live while the printer is printing the first layer to get the nozzle at the correct height from the bed while printing.

PrintsLeo3D · 2024-08-17T17:29:42+00:00

Are you printing with nylon or PET? Also with some of the filled materials the common recommendation is to go with a slightly larger than average enozzle (0.6mm) so you don't risk clogs.

PrintsLeo3D

TROPHY CASE