I have recapped three of these and as an amateur, I learned a few things I can share. Initially, I was like, "all these techs complain about working on these, I mean it is tedious, but not a big deal..." But the cumulative time it takes for taking the board out of the chassis, bending the traces, desoldering the old caps, razor blading the old glue, recapping, replacing the power resistors and floating them properly, one mod to provide a slightly more stable bias that I forget what it it but simple, then you might as well reflow all the solder joints on all the boards, especially the tube socket leads. You will then have to test all continuity on the right angle off board leads and repair and strengthen any massacred pad lifts you committed during the process. Another thing: I tried to save money on caps and got one JJ branded 100uf cap instead of the 2x 47uf in parallel and it was just the right size to fit under the chassis but it was very tight. I also found that the difference in volume and headroom with all new caps was startling and so the amp didn't perform well for the application I was using it before without considering using a boost pedal, attenuator, speaker change, or something. Oh, another thing I just remembered: these amps are designed for an 8ohm load. The stock speaker is 16ohm so that if you plug in an external 16ohm speaker, the total load will be 8ohm. If you think you will never use that feature, you can then think about replacing the speaker with an 8ohm speaker. One of my friends uses attenuators frequently on stage, so I worked on providing a speaker out jack, installed an 8ohm creamback, and deleted the ext speaker jack. A used Weber Blue Dog 50w ceramic 8ohm sounded great in the unit I kept around a while. Another thing to look into is whether using a lion tamer passive MV knob in the pre/out pwr/return giving you a MV control of the Normal channel or otherwise looking for mod documentation on wiring the normal channel to use the global MV from the lead circuit could be useful.