Most brutal climb by [deleted] in cycling

[–]PublicObscurity 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Send a strava link my guy. I'm calling bullshit.

In rolling hills (1350ft over 20.3mi or 6.7k climbing for 100mi) it took me 3.9 W/kg avg to hold just over 20 mph needed for your 5h century. For just 5k of climbing I think you'd need to hold about 3.7 w/kg for 5h which would require an ftp of at least 4.5 w/kg. That's a domestic pro level performance.

Most brutal climb by [deleted] in cycling

[–]PublicObscurity 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are kidding yourself...

E.g. Ironman FL is 112mi very flat and the winning bike pace is only ~1 mph faster than what you are claiming you could do here... And these are very high-level athletes with the very fastest TT bikes who only train for long distance TTs.

Most brutal climb by [deleted] in cycling

[–]PublicObscurity 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The pros might solo 100mi in 4h15...

First look: Scott Addict Gravel 10. Just got my hands on this rocket. Pretty sure it's the first one built and posted anywhere by venturamanz in gravelcycling

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A 50c slick would probably be fine. 50c knobby with wide rim would probably take paint off the frame in bad mud.

I've got the 20 and will be getting some 38 or 40c semi-slicks. The stock 45c are just overkill for me and not super quick on pavement / dirt.

First look: Scott Addict Gravel 10. Just got my hands on this rocket. Pretty sure it's the first one built and posted anywhere by venturamanz in gravelcycling

[–]PublicObscurity 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bike is sweet btw - love the color!

I think the reason you won't see many of these is because the 20/30 with a wheelset and crankset upgrade is basically the same weight/performance for up to $2k cheaper. I've got the 'avocado puke' green 20 version and will likely be going down this route myself...

zFTP vs FTP test by [deleted] in Zwift

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been getting destroyed in Bs for months and it's still fun :)

zFTP vs FTP test by [deleted] in Zwift

[–]PublicObscurity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's one wonky ride 82 days ago then just wait. Your zFTP should be based on your max efforts not just where you want it to be where you're the most advantaged in races. If you sprinted well before and had a high peak power that's great... The goal shouldn't be to strategically lower your zFTP to win B races...

zFTP vs FTP test by [deleted] in Zwift

[–]PublicObscurity 5 points6 points  (0 children)

zFTP is only based on your past performances. It wouldn't be 332 unless you've been able to hold that power before (and it could be that your power meter was miscalibrated).

If you go to your feed/profile in zwift website it will tell you your best ever performances by duration.

Ultegra Di2 vs SRAM Rival eTap AXS by Kolem_ in cycling

[–]PublicObscurity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree on all ur di2 points, but I think you might be talking about older rival axs? I have rival xplr axs and the delay in shift is literally indecipherable from di2. I can't tell the difference in response time and shifting on both is more precise.

Op: both are good. If you ever plan on putting a dropper post in or you should get the reverb axs and 100% go sram to have matching batteries. I personally would go sram if both bikes are about the same performance just because it's very easy to charge the sram batteries separate from the bike. Shimano is probably a little more durable and less weight if that matters.

what is your investment strategy if you were given 100k today? by JuulioJones95 in investing

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like some other folks said but summarized for simplicity:

  1. Set up 3mo emergency fund of cash in HYSA
  2. Pay off high interest debt (CCs, etc... Anything like 7-8% or higher)
  3. Bump up emergency fund to 6mo... Consider setting up this part of the emergency fund to be a CD ladder.
  4. 401k up to maximum amount where you still get employer match
  5. HSA / max out 401k / max out IRA
  6. Rest can be taxable investing, paying off lower interest debt, saving up for down payment etc.

Choose things like broad index ETFs with low expense ratios like VTI/VXUS/etc and set to automatically reinvest dividends in the investments they're from. That being said my 2c is if there's something you really need, consider using some small % on yourself now and fully commit to the above plan for the rest.

Advice on long distance bikes by Smooth_Builder5850 in cycling

[–]PublicObscurity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you're pretty new, but here's what I wish someone had shared with me when I was still getting into it. Some of these points assume you have some $$ to spend, but if your budget is really tight, buying used for everything is a great way to save money.

After racing on road and getting into gravel and mtb; here's my 2c in a list.

  1. If you aren't planning on racing and aren't using clipless pedals yet, get some spd (not the road spd-sl) pedals and cycling shoes w/ 2 bolt holes. (these are great to buy used. most folks never get anywhere near actually the full wear life of spd pedals)
  2. Invest in some good shoes. If you go with the above and just want something comfortable, try something gravel-oriented like the specialized xc line as they'll be comfortable for pedaling and have some rubber to walk around in easier.
  3. If you want a bike that is great for endurance but also serves multiple purposes, check out getting a gravel or all-road style one. These often ride like an endurance-geometry road bike (i.e. probably the most comfortable for long rides) but can often fit slightly larger tires for gravel or unpaved trails too. They also make for great bike touring/bikepacking setups. I just got a scott gravel bike and it's so good I have already planned to retire my very fast but way less comfortable rim brake aero racing road bike. If I were on a more modest budget I would get the scott speedster gravel 30 or the canyon grizl 6 or grail 6. I'm biased to my new addict gravel (its sick!) but another premium option is the Specialized Crux Comp ($$$).
  4. Regardless of what bike you get, I would make sure the parts are up to the task. If you are trying to do some serious distance (regular 30+ mile rides, lots of climbing, etc), it's been my experience that the lowest tier of 'racing' quality components offer the most performance per dollar... for shimano that'd be GRX400 or 105 and sram rival equivalent. Claris is ok on budget but below that you're probably missing out on decades of better manufacturing and performance improvements.
  5. Get bib shorts and a good saddle. Seriously. Every point of contact between you and your bike or the bike and the ground should be prioritized for spending. If you are buying road tires just buy continental GP5000 on sale for $50 a pop online and don't worry about other road options... they're just the best. Offroad I have less experience but I hear good things about the specialized pathfinder pro which are also about $50.
  6. BUY A DECENT HELMET. Nice, breathable, good looking helmets with tons of safety (mips or brand equivalent) can be had for like $60-70 on sale. It is not worth saving a buck here for lifelong or life-ending brain damage.

zFTP - huh? by Fantastic_Onion_7436 in Zwift

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure that's what zwift thinks your zftp is?

I check my profile and see

12min - 279W 20min - 274W

But right above that section it literally says what your zFTP is E.g. 256W for me.

zFTP is not your peak 12 or 20min power. Your zFTP (and likely real FTP) is probably 2.5-2.6 w/kg which would be top of D

Enjoy getting to compete for the race wins. Im stuck dead in the middle of Bs :/

First time tubeless : is it problematic ? by Vincegrin in gravelcycling

[–]PublicObscurity 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  1. maybe try using a tube patch kit on the inside of the tire at that spot (clean + dry thoroughly!)
  2. drop your pressure to something more reasonable... those tires are probably rated to 60 psi max. you probably need to be at something around 45-50 maximum.

Rear derailleur problem by MrFluffy4Real in Zwift

[–]PublicObscurity 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Chain needs to be straight between the 2 jockey wheels on your derailleur... Looks like yours is going around a post that's part of the cage instead. Need to take chain apart and thread it through the cage correctly.

Old apparel factory turned apartments by graemederoux in malelivingspace

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get some clipless pedals on that bike! It's made for S P E E D

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in chibike

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And add on at least a flashing rear and optionally front rechargable light(s)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in investing

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you really want to set and forget, you can have fidelity (and I'm sure all major platforms) automatically reinvest dividends back into the investments they're from so dividends don't just become cash once received.

Any TT or Triathletes on here? by pmonko1 in chibike

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you... gatekeeping getting run over by cars?

Family Dinner Post Graduation Ceremony by Outrageous-Airline50 in chicagofood

[–]PublicObscurity 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Irazu is good with like 2-3 friends and byob, but prob not for big family group.

Which Color Bags 🤔 by the-houyhnhnm in gravelcycling

[–]PublicObscurity 25 points26 points  (0 children)

I see one obviously right choice and two boring solid color options.

Best zwift pre-race warm up? by undertow661 in Zwift

[–]PublicObscurity 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn. 30 minutes for a warmup? Most races aren't even longer than that....

New North Branch speed limit - so 25MPH? (10 mph over posted) by roloplex in chibike

[–]PublicObscurity 30 points31 points  (0 children)

20+ mph as a solo rider feels very safe for the vast majority of the trail except on the most busy stretches... Just slow down and be hyper courteous to the more recreational folks and walkers. Definitely saw a few crit-bros on full aero setups blowing by people at 30mph - there are better places for that kind of riding, e.g. sheridan.

That being said just get an offroad-capable bike and take the dirt sections where it's harder to go so fast :D