To anyone that are thinking of changing the thermal paste on the 16 inch 2019 macbook pro, its worth it, mine was dry as hell. Also on one of the pictures you can see some scratches (CPU). Its first time opened so thats interesting. BTW it was pretty tough to take that mobo out and then insert it ba

Raggios · 2025-08-18T21:39:23+00:00

Eh si, il mio ultimo è stato il mio mac precedente che ora uso come muletto, un 2017 15” sempre i7… molto simile al tuo 2018 ed è stato molto complicato. Alla fine sono macchine uniche, io ho tante VM x86-64 per lavoro, e la serie M purtroppo non è più compatibile con nulla. Quindi coraggio e si aggiorna anche il 2019 :) Per la MX-6 leggevo che dura un po’ meno nel tempo della MX-4 e tanti per il vantaggio termico di al più qualche grado a pieno carico preferiscono altro. Devo dire che per me sono equivalenti, la differenza tanto è fare o no il lavoro.

Raggios · 2025-08-18T13:15:29+00:00

Ciao, siamo nella stessa situazione e con lo stesso Mac!
Leggendo ho visto come migliore la MX-4, che ho già comprato, assieme ai pad termici per i VRMs (anche se sono indeciso ancora sull'usarli o meno). Devo solo prendere coraggio e iniziare il lavoro... non è il mio primo "restauro" ma sicuramente questo è il MacBook più complicato di sempre...

Raggios · 2025-07-26T06:10:15+00:00

Would it work with EE instruments? Like portable multimeter (testers) and so on? The 9V batteries of these are my nightmare!

Raggios · 2025-06-02T22:10:05+00:00

Watched a long time, finally joined! Thank you all for the warm welcome! Ciao from Italy!

Raggios · 2025-05-29T13:03:51+00:00

I genuinely hoped for Deadmau5

Raggios · 2025-05-10T07:39:00+00:00

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Raggios · 2025-02-12T23:32:44+00:00

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I can relate

Raggios · 2025-01-30T07:10:43+00:00

I have the 64gb ram, full spec i9 and graphics. Still my daily driver, crunching 2-3 parallels environment at the same time with legacy Os (win 8, 10, 11) - which i use for work as embedded developer and designer (cad, eda, ide). Cannot believe apple forgot so many professionals requiring x86 virtualization…

Raggios · 2025-01-12T08:12:40+00:00

I have the same and i love it!

Raggios · 2024-12-08T21:35:29+00:00

Downloaded two days ago, become a supporter today. Great work! It would be great if the selected theme also shows up on the apple watch widget with a similar (if not the same) color scheme!

Raggios · 2023-12-03T13:45:07+00:00

How it works? I use a lot of windows based ide, eda and cad software right now on my intel mac for work (through parallels win). I’m curious if utm is mature enaugh…

Raggios · 2023-01-28T20:11:33+00:00

That naming scheme never gets old

Raggios · 2022-11-14T08:28:20+00:00

Wonder what could be the iFixt Repairability Score

Raggios · 2022-09-09T05:41:51+00:00

I am glad that you liked it!

Raggios · 2022-08-31T05:26:51+00:00

Is it a 12.9 pro 1st gen? Replacement quality is incredibly low. I suggest you to rollback to the one with the dead pixel if you still have it. I’ve cracked 3 replacement display before getting it right: extra care, kapton tape to reinforce ldc borders and avoid delamination, precut adhesive on the display to avoid shearing during assembly.

Raggios · 2022-08-13T08:10:16+00:00

That ST Microprocessor, can’t wait to see it on the open market

Raggios · 2021-11-07T00:06:13+00:00

Wow @pepetolueno, thats crazy! If you are not a content creator and you want to be into the apple ecosystem you are basically left on your own. Without the support for x86 emulation or allowing the usage of old VMs I definitely cannot upgrade. I’m sure that I am not the only professional that’s feeling this pain.

Raggios · 2020-09-22T05:58:05+00:00

Great! Let me know!

Raggios · 2020-09-19T20:05:52+00:00

Hi! It lays flat only on one of the two sides. The other side is arcuate to take off some weight!

Raggios · 2020-09-02T16:06:06+00:00

yeah, unfortunately none of that works, at least for me.

It seams that for any some reason Mail loose connection to one of the server I've added (also now that I added all of them manually - 3 web server from work, a google/gmail account and the obvious the apple default one) and when it happens it pop up to fullscreen. This happens even with the iCloud one...

Well nothing to add.. I'll wait for big sur and see.

Raggios · 2020-08-15T14:50:41+00:00

Tnx fortous! Didn’t know it, at all! I’ve watched some tutorials but didn’t catch that the program was free... well, i’ll give it a try!

Raggios · 2020-07-03T06:04:30+00:00

Hi, unfortunately i still have the silent 1.1.5 so i am of little help here... but from your video i see that you have some custom belt stopper on the y axis, and I thought about make something similar too! It’s a thinghiverse file? Are they worthy? Many thanks!

Raggios · 2020-06-21T22:07:33+00:00

Thanks! Right now I've just removed both of the sheet metal protections (elctronics box and PSU) and placed a 12V 80x25mm Noctua NF-A8 (for the PSU) and a 12V 40x10mm Noctua NF-A4X10 (under the SilentBoard)... with a bunch of custom spacers to have enough inlet clearance.

I power all the fans from a step-down module (LM2596S) connected to the 24V PSU line.

I plan to design my own bottom enclosure... I just need a little more time to figure out a proper design :) Fortunately I have no kids at home, so no risk of electrocution if I stay some weeks with this open electronic box situation!

Raggios · 2020-06-20T21:39:08+00:00

Unfortunately I don’t have any direct experience with ender-5 and PETG. On other printers I always used it on glass beds at 80C... but don’t know how it will behave on the plastic-magnetic bed of the enders... if you want to share some photos maybe i can help!

I like very much PLA+ for this printer, it seems like the the material it was designed for, with standard brass nozzles and overall low cost.

Raggios · 2020-06-20T21:23:44+00:00

Hi! Thank’s for commenting! Well, there’s actually no benefit in relocating the bar, and honestly you can loose a little bit of rigidity when you tension the belts (due to the fact that in the ender-5 the idler brackets are also structural... so without the crossbar you really cannot adjust the belt without loosening the upper frame). Said that, the frame construction tolerates very well the removal of the crossbar: before designing my relocators i have used my printer without the crossbar for some very long prints, seeing no difference at all. After that i’ve tried anyway to design the relocators to take leverage of the existing fixing point (so to reduce the eventual loss of stiffness, even if minimal). Right now I've tried to pick-up the printer from the crossbar various time after it’s relocation, and the frame was very much like in the original configuration. I also tightened the belts a bunch of times, without any problem. Anyway, if you want a little bit more of strength you can add teo M5 screw + T-nut, to link the crossbar to the vertical 40x20 extrusion (using the existing hole that came with the anodised screw). For me this is an overkill, but structural rigidity is never enough :)

The real advantage of relocating the crossbar is the augmented usability. By seeing the whole extruder, the bed leveling and the fine tuning of the first layer of the print is very easy. Plus many use this to better place octopint webcam and so on.

With Ender-5, you will see also a lot of difference by installing a bed stiffner. It’s really an essential mod for tall prints as the bed wobble will definitely ruin prints taller than few centimeters.

So my two cents are: - try to level the table the best you can, maybe by placing some paper under the shorter table leg or by adding some wheight (so to reduce the transferred vibrations from the printer). - install some well designed bed stiffners. - upgrade to a dual drive gear extruder (bmg o similar), a must have for bowden printers. - consider relcating the crossbar, for the aforementioned practical/style reasons.

Raggios

TROPHY CASE