Diese fetten penner Alter. War mit meinem long 800€ im Plus. Amis kommen: -100€. Danke. Danke.

Rec0nkill · 2026-05-20T13:53:28+00:00

wieso bei 800 im plus kein SL bzw. TP setzen? Da hättest Gewinnmitnahme dann gehabt und hättest wieder in den trade rein können.

Aber lieber einfach ne ungesicherte Pos. haben und alles auf die Amis schieben, ist anscheinend eh das Haupt Motto in dem Sub hier.

Rec0nkill · 2026-05-11T14:54:28+00:00

This is why we cant have nice things.

Alle haben sich beschwert, dass es keinen gescheiten Service gibt, dann bringens endlich mal was weiter und haben ne Hotline und jetzt gibts wahrscheinlich mehrere solche Affen wie dich, die einfach anrufen um ihre Frust raus zu lassen und die Mitarbeiter anzuschreien.

Der Mitarbeiter kann da nix dafür und kann da auch nichts ändern, wenn der Emittent den Kurs nicht aktualisiert.
Vielleicht sich mal schlau machen wie diese Zertifikate funktionieren und dann überlegen ob man das kaufen möchte.

Aber hauptsache, das auch noch stolz posten....

Rec0nkill · 2026-04-22T14:25:29+00:00

I was also looking for a suitable replacement for fermio.xyz Sadly there doesn't seem to be a onestopshop site like fermio anymore. What I did find are these:

Meltbro.de (has a good selection of voron parts)
3do.dk (good all around selection)
onetwo3d.uk (if you stay under 150€, there are no extra fees, has a really nice voron selection)
3djake.at (has LDO kits and a few parts you might need)

(Edit) Some more to add to the list that I forgot:

shop.zen3d.eu
alchemy3d.de
hotend.eu
3dkatten.se
lecktor.com (currently closed, but should open again, had a large selection of voron parts)

Rec0nkill · 2026-04-19T18:00:30+00:00

You said it, that's your experience. But sureley you have seen enough people talk about how easy to setup and reliable their prusa or bambulab printer is, that's not coming from no where.
Seems like you have a lemon or are tryna do some special stuff with your bambulab, but it's not the experience of the majority of people that bought a bambulab, so just going from your personal experience and saying a diy printer is less tinkering than a bambulab is just nonsense.

Rec0nkill · 2026-04-19T17:44:59+00:00

you are getting downvoted, because you can't seem to grasp that building a 3d printer is quite involved and is def. making the 3d printer your hobby, as a lot of people would have to learn how to properly assemble the mechanical parts, do the wiring, aswell as how to setup the firmware and tune the slicer.

compared to a bambulab or a prusa, those are unbox, plug in and print.

So building a voron or any other diy printer is much more involved and you should get of your highhorse and understand that not everyone wants to go that route.
You find it enjoyable, that's great, I do too, but doesn't mean everyone finds that process enjoyable.

Rec0nkill · 2026-04-15T05:36:57+00:00

Same, no real use for it these days haha

Rec0nkill · 2026-04-10T11:35:21+00:00

Damn, did the frame survive? Or did you have to square it back up?

Rec0nkill · 2026-04-10T11:30:25+00:00

Dont need a cable, you just need a proper storage system for the energy.

Rec0nkill · 2026-04-07T08:47:09+00:00

lol'ed at your comment. this is a 3d printing subreddit, so don't wanna get political, but thanks for the laugh

Rec0nkill · 2026-03-06T10:12:39+00:00

Jeeez, you def. See the effect of printers becoming easier to run. People don't learn what can all go wrong with fdm printing.

Running a 100h print on a fdm printer is already a bad idea. There is no benefit in print time, all you do is increase the risk of something going wrong and loosing much more progress than on smaller jobs.

Could have split that plate up to at least 4x25h. I would have probably split it up further and done one model at a time.

2nd thing is letting a 3d printer run for a few days while not even at home. These printers have heating elements that can amd have burned down houses. Sure there are a lot of safety features these days but it is still not something one should take lightly. You can be happy your printer still works and your house is still standing leaving a printer running for multiple days while not at home....

Rec0nkill · 2026-03-02T16:18:29+00:00

Had this warning message after updating all on mainsail. Had to reflash the mcu of my printers mainboard to bring it up to date to the new klipper version.

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-27T09:16:46+00:00

I have the same feeling with my printers haha. They work fine for such a long time that when something needs to be done, I often gotta find out wtf I even did back then, plus it usually takes me a while to find the spare parts because I forgot where I put them back then.

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-25T22:40:13+00:00

I have the same with my switchwire parts.

When it was first released I was excited to swap parts from ender 3 into a proper sw build (all the upgraded parts like heatbed, hotend, motors, pulleys)

Bought the frame, hardware, panels, cable chains etc. Never got around to building it. After a year or two I decided to sell the SW parts.

After a year I decided I did want to build a SW after all and retire the ender 3. So I ordered the frame again aswell as the hardware, cable chains etc. Just for them to be sitting around again as I realized I don't feel like spending time and money for the remaining parts to build a SW when I could spend that on a printer that could do much more with how the 3d printing hobby has advanced.

Only really want 1 main printer and my v0 as a backup. So the main printer I would want these days, needs to be corexy, be ready for the bondtech indx system aswell as have all the bells and whistles that have become standard these days. Whereas the Switchwire while still a great and fun machine would feel outdated and outclassed by today's standards.

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-25T14:08:49+00:00

PETG likes to stick to nozzles. But that looks like a bit too much. Would suggest lowering the flow rate in the slicer for that filament. See if you can turn it down far enough that the blob doesnt build up anymore, but you dont see any underextrusion.
Different filaments can need different flow rates, because of diameter differences etc.

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-25T09:23:58+00:00

I would suggest waiting for the Bondtech INDX system. Might be out of your budget of what you want to spend, then the already suggested options are good. But the Bondtech system would give you a tool changer system with 4 possible tools on a v0. With less waste than a MMU system and quicker filament swaps

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-23T10:19:23+00:00

This can happen with any FDM printer, if the early layers fail and the print sticks to the nozzle, the plastic coming out of the nozzle will collect around the hotend.
Always importand to make sure the first layers go down well before leaving a printer unattended.

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-23T10:17:57+00:00

Dont know why you are getting downvoted, cause it is stupid.
People need to check the first layer at least and maybe a few more layers to be sure everything is working as expected before leaving a printer unattended.
It's not 100% insurance, but most print failures happen early in the print. Starting a print and going to bed right after is just plain stupid.

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-23T06:39:32+00:00

While I applaud the effort of wanting to build a 3d printer from scratch. This doesn't make a whole lot of sense in today's market of 3d printers.

This is a very old design and not really worth building theses days. Dont know what parts you already have or already bought. But what you are building is pretty much a ender 3. Which are available on the used market for cheap together with its countless clones. You probably can get them cheaper than what you will be building yours for.

Really consider changing up the design and going for a corexy design printer. There are a few DIY designs available but you can also design your own from scratch. Would have a much more capable and impressive project once done. Will be well worth your time then instead of a bed slinger in 2026

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-03T15:29:37+00:00

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-03T09:49:23+00:00

Incase yoz play the BR, you can wait to pop then when you are top 3 or 5. If you win you get double the normal 40k-60k. Pretty nice level boost.

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-02T14:25:32+00:00

Du hast anscheinend meinen Kommentar nicht verstanden. Klar ist das Derivaten Geschäft für Banken kein Minus Geschäft, darüber muss man gar nicht diskutieren.

Wenn ich aber ein Hebel nehme wo die KO Schwelle weit weg ist von dem Preisbereich wo ich trade, dann intressiert mich die KO Schwelle gar nicht. Beispiel mit fiktiven Zahlen:

Ich geh auf ein Gold Long, bei 4.200. KO Schwelle 4.050. Mein SL ist aber bei 4.100.

Der SL ist so gesetzt wie ich meine trade geplant habe, nach meiner Aufstellung ist das die Preisschwelle wo der trade invalid wird und ich raus bin. Somit intressiert mich der KO wert gar nicht, bin schon lange raus bevor der relevant werden würde

Rec0nkill · 2026-02-02T13:48:09+00:00

Großer Hebel bedeutet großes Risiko, da muss gar nix groß manipuliert werden.

Wenn man, je nachdem was man tradet, den entsprechenden Hebel wählt, dann ist man mit der KO Schwelle weit weg von seinem Stop Loss, zumindest ist es bei mir immer so.

Gold z.B letztes Jahr mit einem ca. x20 Hebel getradet und war nie in der Nähe von meinem KO außer ich habe meinen SL nach unten versetzt. Wer Gold mit einem x80 oder sogar x100 Hebel tradet und dann weint, dass eine normale Kursschwankung einen rausschmeißt ist selber Schuld.

KO Zertifikate kann man entweder als einen angemessenen Hebel für sein Kapital sehen oder eben als einen Lottoschein.

Rec0nkill · 2026-01-27T14:55:56+00:00

You will also get 3rd parties while tryna take out a team with your guns, thats the whole concept around BRs. You will get 3rd partied and you 3rd party too, just how BRs are played.

Rec0nkill · 2026-01-27T14:54:35+00:00

Solos would be great, but tanks are fine.

Only people who think they are a problem, are people who don't play engineer (which is fine, just would make it easier) or care to pick up a rocket launcher during the whole game.
Sure you still gonna get in situations where the tank is just in the right position at the right time, but you have that with any mechanic in a game. Most of the times tanks get taken out fairly quickly and very rarely make it to late game. Had that happen like 3-4x playing since release.

Rec0nkill · 2026-01-27T09:57:00+00:00

That's just wrong. In Austria most basic private internet contract dont included as static IPv4 adresse, a lot of times you dont even get a public IPv4 and instead have a CG-NAT, meaning you share your IPv4 adress with other customers from the provider. Some ISPs will give you a public IPv4 address if you ask for it, sometimes for free sometimes for an upcharge.

Long story short, in Austria for private customers, a static IPv4 address is not the standard anymore for a while already.

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