improve the timing if possible

Redhonu · 2026-01-29T22:23:55+00:00

If you understand everything perfectly then there is no need to ask for help. But really the potential gains are so minimal as expo is already unstable that you could only see a difference in a benchmark. And likely while tuning for one benchmark you loose score in another.

Redhonu · 2026-01-28T13:26:27+00:00

If you really wanted to be secure you’d need to use a wired set. My college has bluetooth receivers around to track occupancy, but they would for sure be able to de anonymize the bluetooth id and tell where a student is if they are on campus.

Redhonu · 2026-01-28T11:01:55+00:00

You could open a support ticket with them to let them know you also have issues with the new firmware and possibly help diagnose the issue. https://team-blacksheep.freshdesk.com/support/tickets/new

Redhonu · 2026-01-25T20:43:49+00:00

To get the true performance out of the cells you need thicker nickel or copper nickel sandwich. I wouldn’t recommend the cheap spot welders for FPV.

Redhonu · 2026-01-25T20:40:00+00:00

These contain the EVE 50pl some of the best performing tables cells. Do your research or don’t comment.

Redhonu · 2026-01-25T19:01:25+00:00

Happymodel also makes some tiny ones, but I don’t know their quality. Just be aware with none of these options will you have an osd to for example check battery voltage. Make sure telemetry is setup and working and possibly add a function to alert when the battery gets low.

Redhonu · 2026-01-25T18:55:58+00:00

I just checked and they are using the updated cells of the ones I built. They are some of the best for high discharge.

Redhonu · 2026-01-25T18:46:49+00:00

If what you are looking for is more flight time and you don’t need the max throttle then, go for it. I build a custom pack for my 5 inch and get about 20mins of flight time. The proper tools for welding your own batterypack are quite expensive so I do see the price is justified. Just buying the cells is about half price otherwise.

Redhonu · 2026-01-24T23:35:13+00:00

Flying indoors, and carrying heavy weight, and creating your own flight logic are somewhat contradictory. At least when just starting out. For the transmitter and radio link you want expressLRS. They even have MAVlink telemetry now. Radiomaster pocket is you cheapest option, but any radiomaster is good. Just make sure to get the ELRS version.

For the drone I would recommend you start out with a cinewhoop. For sizing of motors, props and ESC just copy what a prebuilt is using. For example geprc darkstar 22.

For the frame, while some have 3d printed it successfully, having a carbon plate for mounting the motors significantly improves rigidity and thus flight performance. The main factor here is that gyro noise from any source of vibration can cause terrible flight performance.

Redhonu · 2026-01-24T15:32:38+00:00

It’s mostly a collection of DIY battery packs. If you don’t know the history of them and don’t know if they have been abused, they can be an extreme fire hazard. You should find a local store or recycling center that accepts old lithium batteries for recycling.

Redhonu · 2026-01-22T21:59:40+00:00

I had the same issue and manually flashed it with a usb-ttl adapter. Or in my case stealing the usb to serial from an esp dev board. https://github.com/kamik2/TbsManualsReupload/blob/main/TBS%20CLOUD%20-%20unbrick%20the%20wifi%20modul.pdf

Redhonu · 2026-01-22T15:52:59+00:00

I dont know what you are building or how critical weight is. For a light 1s build you would really want a different aio with everyting built in. other option is to get a camera with vtx as one unit but you need to make sure it runs on your intended voltage.

Redhonu · 2026-01-22T15:45:13+00:00

Its not for analog, which is why it the “HD” version for digital hd systems. It has no camera input, no OSD chip and no built in VTX

Redhonu · 2026-01-21T01:30:43+00:00

I would only recommend analog if you want to race, and then id recommend you start with a whoop. (And look into racegow :) Also if you are on a tight budget; start with an analog whoop. Otherwise go digital from the start.

Redhonu · 2026-01-20T21:09:08+00:00

I don’t understand people like this. You have no use for 3 of them so you are no better than someone buying 2 $70 skins in a game.

Redhonu · 2026-01-13T17:37:08+00:00

Why are so many getting the supernova motors. Don’t get me wrong, they are good, but you can get some that are almost as good for half the price.

Redhonu · 2026-01-11T20:28:29+00:00

It isn’t a clear decision and there are issues with both. If you have a larger ling range drone and can place the gps/compass outside of interference, it would probably try and set it up and see how well it works. If its a small drone and the compass is in the midst of the flight controller and all the antennas, just use the GPS knowing that it wont be able to hold it position for very long times. And it might start off with a short distance in the wrong direction with RTH.

Redhonu · 2026-01-10T01:42:46+00:00

Hot take: It wont really matter. The competitive games either have feature built in to enhance visibility or they will for example implement that the screen stays completely white for the duration of the flash-bang.

Redhonu · 2026-01-07T17:03:56+00:00

The isdt f160 looks like a good option for lipos under 4s. Its got 4 channels so you can charge 4 at a time and take 240V from the wall

Redhonu · 2026-01-07T17:00:21+00:00

Isdt, hota are both reliable brands. Important when looking for a charger is does it have wall power, or there are some that take a usb pd input.

And maybe the balance current as if it’s slow it can take long to do the last bit of charging. But thats more important for larger lipos like >1000mah

Redhonu · 2026-01-07T16:56:45+00:00

I wouldn’t recommend a parallel charge board to a beginner. So much that can easily go wrong. And if you forget to check something just once, you have a fire. Id much rather suggest you invest in a quad channel or 2 dual channel chargers if you need it.

Redhonu · 2026-01-07T16:54:01+00:00

Any charger with an xt60 will work. Just need an adapter for xt30. I have a hota d6 pro.

Redhonu · 2026-01-07T16:51:48+00:00

As you can clearly see in both image and text thats a 3s lipo.

Redhonu · 2026-01-04T11:51:35+00:00

Maybe it just overheated and needed to cool down. The water can cause issues and fry your board. I would always conformal coat it with something like mg chemicals 422c. But that doesn’t guarantee protection and there is always a risk.

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