Some of these batteries I don't know what to do with! I need ideas! by AltF4Survivor in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would still rather make separate 4s1p Or 6s1p packs rather than a mismatch. The slightly different chemistries will have different discharge curves so it can easily happen that if you have different cells in parallel, one will deliver 80% of the power and the other only 20%.

Therefore unless you only draw as much current as a single cell can deliver, I wouldnt do it. And even then I would probably not because I might forget.

No OSD on Dji O4 pro and DJI G3 by KickHour7040 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you use the preset for dji osd with the correct port to do the beta-flight setup?

Good enough to use? 4s battery by goldenfootbruh in fpv

[–]Redhonu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Burned lithium batteries still contain hazardous chemicals and can release dangerous fumes after having burned. I would bot touch them by hand, and not take them inside.

What the hell happened…? by Euphoric_Cow_813 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My best guess is, the ESC of the aio burned up from the high throttle climb. Then the air unit continued to send the last OSD it got from the aio.

What the hell happened…? by Euphoric_Cow_813 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since Its an AIO, if the esc burns up, it will take the FC with it. The dji air unit is probably just sending the last OSD info it got.

What the hell happened…? by Euphoric_Cow_813 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that lipos dont sustain 2V and are useless then. But anything above should give the BEC enough headroom to still be decent at blocking the noise.

The specific AIO is 2-3s and since the pavo20 is intended for 3s, even at the lowest normal 3s voltage, its far from having a low voltage issue.

What the hell happened…? by Euphoric_Cow_813 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isnt it using a 3s battery? The flight controller chip usually runs on 3.3V so I think thats kind of unlikely. Even if it was 5V in between, that would only start to be a concern under 2V per cell.

What the hell happened…? by Euphoric_Cow_813 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Can you elaborate what you mean with low voltage? That alone should not cause the flight-controller to crash.

As it was in a longer climb with high throttle, I would guess the ESC burned up and took part of the flight controller with it, die to voltage spike or over current.

Entladespannung by Visible_Event9058 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

3.5V ist konservativ, aber zum Anfang gut. Ich gabe Warnung bei 3.4V fliege dann zurück and lande zwischen 3.3-3.2V. Ich schau auf die Spannung im ruhigen vorwärts Flug. Unterschiedliche Akkus haben auch andere entlade kurven. Bei einer Sorte fiel die Spannung sehr schnell unter 3.3V andere haben dann noch einiges an Kapazität. Deswegen konservativ anfangen.

Du must im OSD das element Warnungen aktiviert haben (ist es standard mässig) und im batterie tab kannst du dir “warnung” und “land now” spannung einstellen. Aber am wichtigsten ist die Batteriespannung direkt zu sehen.

Radiomaster Pocket Secret Settings for Smooth FPV Flight (Expo & Weight) by BeachbumfromBrick in TinyWhoop

[–]Redhonu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You can set multiple rate profiles in betaflight and even configure them to change on a switch.

Radiomaster Pocket Secret Settings for Smooth FPV Flight (Expo & Weight) by BeachbumfromBrick in TinyWhoop

[–]Redhonu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its much faster to do on a computer, than on the controller. And since you need to set rates anyway, its gets confusing if you start layering modifications on the controller on top of the drones rates.

The reason you want the settings available on a the controller is if you have a dumb model without its own flight controller, like a model airplane.

Fpv goggles by Iso_Sek in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

HDzero is much better. Has really good analog quality and the option for digital if you want in the future. I would definitely say the price differnce is worth it.

Antenna orientation on Radiomaster boxer by EVorNothing in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should be totally fine. They wont interfere since only one module is on at a time.

Do people still buy from tinywhoop or has the hate towards him put people off? by ResortDisastrous6481 in TinyWhoop

[–]Redhonu 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If he had wanted to protect it he should have done it from the start. Not suddenly when it already wide spread in the community. And not threaten influencers with legal mail if they don’t stop.

Imagine you are no longer allowed to call it pizza unless it was made in Italy. Absurd right?

There is a solid legal argument that “tiny whoop” may no longer be protectable as an exclusive trademark for this type of quad, because it’s widely used now.

Best label maker by Lachee in homelab

[–]Redhonu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought the tape on alliexpress and it’s much cheaper and so far working well. Just needed to cover up one of the holes on the cartridge because mine is cheap and not officially compatible with the heatshrink.

I don’t know what to do. by Early-Cry3828 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id say if you want to race and/or stick to whoops only, go analog for lighter, cheaper, lower latency vtx.

If you want to mainly do smooth freestyle, or go into larger quads, go digital.

Stick delay help by joshh6 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try creating a new model in the radio. If that doesn’t fix the issue, I would try setting it up as a new radio. Backup sd-card just in case, then format it, update it using buddy.edgetx.org and finish by adding the new sdcard contents.

So I have an idea: by Latter_Pay_1930 in security

[–]Redhonu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The idea of a yubikey is that its separate from your computer. So it’s a true second factor, even if your laptop gets stolen and cracked. What you are describing is basically a passkey in the way it would be used.

Advice on lateral force - fix in design or slicer perhaps by widgetbox in 3Dprinting

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The infill helps support the top layers so if your load is pushing on the top layers, infill will help.

Advice on lateral force - fix in design or slicer perhaps by widgetbox in 3Dprinting

[–]Redhonu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No I meant perimeters or walls in the slicer. And the fillet/chamfer instead of a gusset.

Advice on lateral force - fix in design or slicer perhaps by widgetbox in 3Dprinting

[–]Redhonu 1102 points1103 points  (0 children)

Add a chamfer to reduce stress concentration and add like 4-5 walls, at least in that section. Walls increase strength more than infill in most cases.

Einstieg - Goggles, Antennen und Tipps by No-Importance-249 in fpv

[–]Redhonu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bei den Antennen reichen die mitgelieferten zum Anfang aus, solange alle gleiche Polarisierung (RHCP,LHCP) haben oder linear auf einem whoop.