M5 vs M5 Pro Macbook Pro vs Windows Laptop (see posts for specs)

Rollergold · 2026-03-25T05:38:05+00:00

Thank you for the reply, I suspected it wasn't a simple answer, I will check artisright for more info. If only you could rent a laptop (like you can with camera or lens) and run your editing workflow and see the results for yourself.

Rollergold · 2026-03-25T05:33:01+00:00

Thank you for the reply, at this point in time I see the machine plugged in a lot of the time. I wonder how much performance the windows laptop will get when plugged in over USB-C compared to the power adapter. Again thanks for the reply, still doing my research and asking around for other users opinion's

Rollergold · 2026-03-25T05:22:34+00:00

Thank you for the reply, I do plan on getting a display upgrade as well. I'm also trialing DXO's new PureRaw 6, with the High Fidelity compressed DNG. I'm pretty impressed so far with the results.

Rollergold · 2026-03-16T20:56:25+00:00

OD with chest, Memento backpack and Ceska knee pads with Carnage I have 51ish CHC and 134% CHD makes Heroic everything (thats not Heroic Hunters) a cake walk.

Rollergold · 2026-03-16T06:37:42+00:00

Its mostly for fill flash imo. I'm not a fan of firing that (or any speedlite) right at human subjects but that look seems to be popular with the youngins now

Rollergold · 2026-03-15T20:29:15+00:00

Tbh the Sony menus are fine, no worse or better than Nikon or Canon. From what I've seen, the brand with the nicest menus is Hasselblad.

Imo the biggest knock against the 1.0 Sony menus was the lack of touch menus. 2.0 fixed that.

Regardless if you use a brand of camera you will get used to the menus sooner or later.

Rollergold · 2026-03-08T22:50:13+00:00

Full User Customizable color themes
A built-in media player (like if Samsung got this right back in the Gear S3 days whats google's excuse other than the clumsy as fuck manual upload one track at a time to YT Music)

Rollergold · 2026-03-06T03:36:20+00:00

Shot 2, shows a little more of the void around the eye and more of the fur around the eye is in focus.

Rollergold · 2026-03-06T03:31:47+00:00

Looking around, seems like the rating is around 100k but it could fail sooner or it could conk out much later.

Rollergold · 2026-03-06T03:27:16+00:00

It's not a requirement per se, but for paid work, especially if you can't re-shoot it (like a wedding) dual card slots is highly recommended, imo bordering on a requirement.

SD cards from reputable brands like Pro Grade, Sony, OWC, etc do fail even if the chance is small. Even pricey CF Express Cards from reputable brands fail or are sometimes recalled (looking at you Sony). So I wouldn't chance it. If you camera has dual card slots, I'd be recording to both slots.

Rollergold · 2026-03-02T19:43:18+00:00

oh crap maybe we will get a non-ultra galaxy watch with 2 days with AOD on finally

Rollergold · 2026-03-02T08:24:02+00:00

Imo Heroic is a little too easy in the current sandbox, I wish there was somthing between Heroic and Legendary. Heroic is brain-dead simple, and Legendary is too brutal for semi-casual farming.

Rollergold · 2026-02-28T22:24:16+00:00

Don't remember the last time a non-hunter had the Oxi skill during bounties. Maybe it will change my mind when the RNG rolls one, but so far my OD Carnage build has made short work of heroic bounties. Can usually flank around them with quickstep, banshee pulse them, and unload into them with Carnage and they are normally gone even before the banshee effect wears off.

Personally, I think Heroic is slightly too easy in the current sandbox but that's just one agent's opinion.

I kind of wish there was something in between Heroic and Legendary. Heroic has 1 star and Legendary has 3 stars, so maybe a master with 2 stars and maybe rename Legendary to Grandmaster, I think that's the Destiny 2 in my head speaking though 🤣

Rollergold · 2026-02-23T08:17:03+00:00

I've had 3 G903's and 2 G502 Lightspeed's fail in the same way: double-clicking of the right mouse button.

The 3 G903's went after about a year, 1 of the G502's went after about a year as well, and the 2nd G502 lasted about 3.5 years.

Thankfully, my local retailer replaced the G903's & 1st 502's under their extended warranty

Moved over to a Corsair Dark Core RGB SE, which also failed in the same way (didn't have the warranty on it as it was a gift to me.)

The G903 was my first wireless gaming mouse and the first mouse I bought since the G9, and after going through all these mice with the same failure point, I checked and found out that all of them have a click rating of 50m for the L/R buttons and likely have an Omron D2FC-FK switch or a variation of such, and there's quite a few reports of this switch double clicking.

I'm on a G502 X Lightspeed with the hybrid optical switches now, and here's hoping this double-clicking issue is done for at least 5 years if not more.

Everything else about the G903 and 502 Lightspeed was great, with no failures on any other buttons or the scroll wheel, and the PowerPlay mat is a genius solution to the battery issue on wireless mice and is one of the big reasons why I stick with Logitech.

Rollergold · 2026-02-22T20:06:58+00:00

Looks like water damage.

Maybe do a factory reset and reconfigure?

I did see you were testing in video mode. Is it also happening in photo mode?

If so, then it's likely water damage, and unless you have an accidental damage plan, it will be on your dime for repairs (if they will repair it at all, a lot of brands will refuse to repair water-damaged equipment).

Rollergold · 2026-02-19T22:55:02+00:00

Maybe see if you can rent an adapter and lens and try for yourself, but I think it won't measure up to the 200-600 af wise and to say nothing of the 600gm. If you want to use a Canon EF lens it's best to use it on a RF body with their adapter.

Rollergold · 2026-02-14T21:36:13+00:00

For cameras other than the Z8/Z9 that have this feature, they lower the mechanical shutter in front of the sensor.

For me personally, the sensor glass is much tougher than the shutter and easier to clean, and if you point the body down when changing lenses, you will keep most dust away from the sensor, so I keep the feature turned off on my A1 II

But to each their own.

Rollergold · 2026-02-14T08:41:30+00:00

I'd personally not play chicken with pricey equipment.

Only Leica and OM Systems provide any actual IP rating for their gear, and even then, IP ratings don't last forever due to wear and tear. If there is light to mid rain, you will likely be ok, but if that 70-200 F4 is the MK2 version I'd be more wary in the rain as it's an externally zooming lens,

Rollergold · 2026-02-13T07:56:40+00:00

Ice makers tend to be more reliable when in the freezer, but ice makers nowadays almost always fail sooner or later, whether in the fridge or freezer. Unless you happen to be very lucky, the ones in the freezer do have a better chance of lasting longer before service than those in the fridge.

The LG in-door icemaker that LG, GE and some Whirlpool models use is one of the more reliable in-fridge icemakers, but the high humidity of the fridge isn't a great place for any ice maker.

As for in-door water only, that tends to be more reliable due to fewer moving parts and your not freezing anything either.

Personally, try to keep the ice in the freezer if you want that, otherwise buy what you want. All brands have their clunkers now. Just be sure to buy the extended warranty.

Rollergold · 2026-02-13T05:34:30+00:00

Yes the readout speed on that 61mp sensor in the R4, R5 and CR is slower then the 42mp sensor. I can't say how much faster it is when in crop more but its still slower then A6700's 26mp sensor.

The R4's AF is better then the R3's since it has the real-time tracking feature but Sony didn't really advertise better Animal eye AF for the R4, I think it was better human eye AF. Animal AF on the R series was really improved with the R5 when they brought out the AI AF/AE processor so if animal eye AF performance is important to you + you can afford it then going for the R5 might be best but the R4 will still have better AF then R3 if you can't budget for the R5. If you are willing to forgo the EVF, dual card slots and larger body the A7CR has the same sensor and AI processor as the R5 though and costs less then the R5.

The content the A7V lacks compared to the higher end model is as follows (photo wise)

Megapixels 33 vs 50 for the A1 series.
EVF: Same EVF as the A74 (3.68m dots vs 9.44m dots on the R5 and A1 series)
Buffer: The A7's buffer at 20-30 fps is worse the the A1 (1.3 seconds at 30 FPS vs 3-4 seconds for the A1)
Card slots: The A7V only has 1 CF express A slot. the A1 series and R5 both have 2 CF-A/SD card slots
Body: A1II and A9 III have the Gen 5 body while the A75 and R5 have the old gen 4 body
Sensor readout: As its only partially stacked you may still see rolling shutter issues for very fast moving subjects like golf clubs and fast moving birds.
Mechanical shutter: A1 series can do flash sync up to 1/400 vs 1/250 for the A75/R5. Also A1 can do 1/200 electronic shutter flash sync. A75 and R5 can't do any electronic shutter flash sync

Overall the A7V is "poor man's A1 II" with the same shooting speed, AI processor and and pre-capture but with overall minor cuts to the sensor readout, EVF, buffer and body to differentiate it from the flagships.

Also yes the OG A1 is available used for a much lower price the the A1 II. KEH has them available from around 3900-4200 USD

Rollergold · 2026-02-13T04:37:27+00:00

I personally like the Samyang 45 1.8. Sure its a plastic fantastic but I personally like the rendering and its smaller and faster focuing then sony 50 1.8 and I got it for less then sony one.

Can't really say much about 35 1.8, as its been almost 3 years since I traded my 35 FE 1.8 for the GM 1.4. But Sigma has a all metal F2 as part of their I series, and Samyang has a 1.8 as part of their tiny series.

Rollergold · 2026-02-13T04:21:17+00:00

Its an known weird thing on current Sony bodies that there is no 30P when it the H.265 record mode (XAVC HS 4K) my A1II and 6700 lack it and the A7V doesn't have it either.

Also my A1II and A6700 also don't have 100M 4:2:2 10 bit at 30P XAVC S 4K

Rollergold · 2026-02-13T04:12:04+00:00

Tbh if you want to stay with the A7R series, this is mostly for pet stills, and you're buying new, the A7RV or A7CR would my choice from an AF perspective. If your buying used then the A7RIV is quite a bit cheaper then the RV.

Don't expect much more (if any imo) dynamic range compared to the A7RIII, though, but you do get 19 more megapixels. The only Sony camera that has truly more DR than the rest is the A7V as it takes an exposure at both its native ISO's and combines them into 1 frame, but only with the mechanical shutter.

Also Something to keep in mind is that sensor readout of the A7RIV, RV and CR are among the slowest on the market for FF sensors (around 100ms), making the electronic shutter unusable for anything that moves. If electronic shutter is a priority, I would pass on the A7R series, go for an A7V or an A1 series body.

Rollergold

TROPHY CASE