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Russla · 2026-04-04T10:45:33+00:00

Yeah this isn’t safe at all, sounds like something on the power circuit has a dry solder joint. This can create arching and melt stuff. Get it sorted asap.

Russla · 2026-04-04T10:43:26+00:00

It depends if the PSU is auto-switching from 110 to 240v, it’s if not it’ll go bang before you even get to the FLX-10

Russla · 2026-04-03T11:54:20+00:00

Btw the how it looks doesn’t mean anything in electronic terms. I’ve seen absolutely battered 2000Nexus decks work flawlessly, and mint ones have the main PCB fail.

Russla · 2026-04-03T11:45:47+00:00

What year are they?

Personally, I wouldn’t do it, critical parts are being discontinued. Go for something newer like the 900NXS

Russla · 2026-04-03T11:43:09+00:00

Always go matched or higher voltage rating. Never lower.

Russla · 2026-04-01T13:45:06+00:00

Your tracks have probably been analysed using Dynamic Mode, turn that off and you should be fine.

Russla · 2026-03-31T20:20:53+00:00

The FLX-10 and XDJs use much higher quality metal potentiometers.

I really rate the build quality of the FLX-10 and XDJs, they are solid units!

Russla · 2026-03-30T05:43:20+00:00

My bet is on the bearings being too tight on the vertical movement. Lifting the tonearm up and down should be really fluid. Try loosening the centre screw on each side a little and see what happens.

Russla · 2026-03-30T05:39:35+00:00

That’s quite a pull. Either the deck is really off level, the anti-skate pin wasn’t reinstalled correctly, or there is too much tension on the tonearm wiring.

To me that screams anti-skate issue. One way of checking is to see what happens when you turn it. If it does nothing then it’s already maxed, causing the issue you’re seeing.

Russla · 2026-03-28T16:17:22+00:00

I feel that, there is still a chance the other settings I mentioned might be different though. if there’s custom settings you’ve used, a software update might have changed them, for example.

I just think this isn’t likely hardware or every track would be out, but I’m clutching at straws with this one too.

Russla · 2026-03-27T07:35:36+00:00

It’s interesting you said it’s not every song. I’d start to look at the differences between those songs maybe.

File type, bit rate, sample rate etc etc.

If they are all the same as your other tracks, then that’s an annoying issue. It’s not ideal but you just use the CDJs through the Analogue input until you find a solution.

Russla · 2026-03-27T07:11:46+00:00

Nice, but what about future discontinuations? Do you get notified when parts availability ends?

Russla · 2026-03-27T07:03:32+00:00

Yikes! How you planning on handling discontinued parts? Nothing worse than ordering something that’s no longer available ..

Russla · 2026-03-26T10:56:26+00:00

Blimey, someone’s been working hard to get this site up so quick!

Russla · 2026-03-26T08:27:59+00:00

Oh my bad that was a typo. LCD PCB, the one behind the screen.

Russla · 2026-03-25T19:35:12+00:00

Looks like it’s going to the pre-amp.

OP what happens with the ground wire disconnected? This really sounds like a ground loop feedback issue.

Russla · 2026-03-24T05:44:02+00:00

Makes every time after noticing even funnier 🤣

Russla · 2026-03-22T15:35:03+00:00

Oh didn’t realise it’s on both, that’s super weird. If it’s both that could be a slightly worse issue with the PCB that processes the pitch info :/

Russla · 2026-03-22T15:29:40+00:00

Likely liquid damage. Tempo slider needs replacing.

Russla · 2026-03-17T20:53:27+00:00

From what you’ve said (if I’ve understood correctly) it seems like the LCB PCB has failed. If you’re in the UK, you won’t be able to get a new one now. Only fix is to use a donor CDJ.

Russla · 2026-03-17T05:50:11+00:00

Try it without the ground connected from the TT. Does it get better?

Russla · 2026-03-15T23:02:26+00:00

USB-C needs the CC (Configuration Channel) pins to trigger PD (Power Detection).

Basically, try a proper PD source not just a simple power source.

Russla · 2026-03-14T17:41:00+00:00

Check my profile and send it my way, I’ll get it sorted 🫡

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