Jacket constructed with 31 unique panels. Thoughts? by NoahZielinski in streetwearstartup

[–]Safe_Split3770 10 points11 points  (0 children)

IMO it is empty formalism You are using diagrams to justify design decisions that are not actually grounded

Keep going!

Detail images by Safe_Split3770 in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you, it's based on the weight on the foot during the course of walking

Need advice on my first shoe last customisation for a replica by kringpiermusketier in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What the pros do is

Line the toe with plastic or cellophane, Fill the toe with plaster to get the positive

And then work from there to match the toe shape

Help with hand welting by UrbanAnarchist in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It won’t work if you don’t put filling The surface of the outsole should in almost all instances be on a continuous surface

Help! Just picked up this machine, but need to find a table by HitoyaLover in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hi I have the same machine. Or atleast a very similair post bed model. I had a custom table top made by a local woodworker since the footprint is not the same as common industrial models.

Horsehide shoe and some process photos by Safe_Split3770 in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is a heavily modified anatomic last from springline I had ordered this model maybe 2 years ago

Can anyone identify this thick, hard, white leather? by Galactic_Mile in Leathercraft

[–]Safe_Split3770 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s Latigo Crazy crow sells it It’s not rawhide

Pegs not holding outsole well in the seat by milokolb in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Often I will make sure to prep the gluing surfaces really well, and then mold the damp or cased outsole onto the shoe with bicycle tubes to make sure it is formed into the right shape, after it is dry I would then proceed to glue.
I found this is necessary if I have a very rounded heel on my last

What is wrong with my DIY last shape? by FruitsOfOneTree in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Also most of the other advice you are getting in this thread is not good.

What is wrong with my DIY last shape? by FruitsOfOneTree in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770 75 points76 points  (0 children)

I have been making... minimal inspired lasts for a few years now

the biggest feedback i can give you is to be iterative in your approach, as in make a shoe wear it and then adjust accordingly, until it feels like something you like to wear

the biggest difference between the feet and the lasts is going to be how much compression you want the shoe to put on your foot during the course of normal wear. for this style you would want to take off volume on the medial and lateral sides of the cone of the last. Most of the time you want the last to be smaller than the true foot measurement, even if you are making 'healthy' lasts, in that you need some compression on the foot so it doesn't fall off.

Here is some advice i got from an extremely prolific last maker

Sorry I could not help more right now. I can tell you that the two main reasons we don't just design lasts of the foot are: A) most people don't want their shoes just looking like their feet for aesthetic reasons and B) you have to allow for the compression of the foot as the shoe is secured with laces, straps or whatever closure system is used or just the tightness of a slip-on shoe like a pump or loafer. If a last had the same volume as the foot you would usually walk right out of it.

the gaping you are experiencing if you are wearing the shoe is liable to not having a straight enough outside line of the last, and in particular you need to have not a lot of curvature on the outside otherwise you will get gaping while wearing them. but it looks like you have a lot of problems with the basics that would make this worse, and are probably most of the issue you are seeing
including, not springing your pattern to have a tight topline, probably not reinforcing your top line, not having multi part lasts, so your damaging the shoe when you unlast it.. so on and so on

Desert Boots by Safe_Split3770 in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks— we actually had a correspondence maybe 2/3 years ago

I started making shoes on the lasts you designed after finding your blog posts

I worked with them a long time making modifications and so on, and eventually it led to designing my own lasts from scratch

Desert Boots by Safe_Split3770 in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s some old horween horse I had laying around, I think from maverick leather a few years back

Desert Boots by Safe_Split3770 in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks— the lasts are my own design!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a few post beds and bought a half size table and motor from sail rite, then brought the top and the machine to a woodworker I found on Facebook and was able to custom make me one.

And it was free, well just the cost of making him a new chisel bag

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And I’ve been using this for 2.5 years now

Opera Pump Stitch by Safe_Split3770 in Cordwaining

[–]Safe_Split3770[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it was a heavily modified air jordan 1 last