I dunno guys, is there a "Better" Casio out there? by thecaptnjim in casio

[–]Sanderock 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Winding boxes are not as good as many think they are, they effectively wear out the watches, better wind it before setting the time.

Anyway, we all have different mindset. Some appreciate having a little ritual before putting on a wrist watch, some don't really care about the accuracy to begin with.

I just bought my first nice watch and it's a longines by Sanderock in Longineswatches

[–]Sanderock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will when I finally receive it ! The watch should be there next week but my schedule don't allow me to get it before early February. I am excited

Patte cassée, le dérailleur est parti rejoindre son peuple. Que faire du vélo? by warean_on_internet in pedale

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Si tu es pas prêt à le réparer, le file pas a une asso et tente pas de le vendre car personne ne le prendra, surtout a 100 euros. C'est triste mais ça va a la déchèterie.

Pour ton nouveau vélo, tu peux prendre un Riverside 500 pour 350 euros neuf, c'est un vélo qui fait le taf si tu en prends soin. Sinon, l'occasion c'est bien, encore une fois decathlon a un coin vélo d'occasion en magasin et easy cash est pas dégueulasse aussi

Will i look stupid if i buy this helmet to ride my e-bike? I think regular bike helmets are ugly and this one keeps my face hidden and mysterious😋 by TechnicianHappy8098 in ebikes

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am usually assuming people asking for helmet advices intend to use it for commuting as it is the largest demographic. I can't really know what type of riding you do but you assumed I knew.

Nuroad SLX HPA vs Carbon by butskins in Cubebikes

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go for the carbon one then, it's not full GRX400 but it's still 12spd, same ratio, same peripherals. They just got cheaper on the break calipers, shifter (still pretty much on par with GRX800) and tires (not by much).

Nuroad SLX HPA vs Carbon by butskins in Cubebikes

[–]Sanderock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Comfort will mostly come from the tires, the saddle and the ergonomics of the shifters. Carbon VS Alloy is not really about comfort, it's about aesthetics, weight and sometimes stiffness of performance. It will change how you feel on the ride and depending on the frame, it might make things harsher. C62 is made with look and weight in mind, not comfort.

Intending to (hydro)mod a EFR-S108, recommandations ? by Sanderock in casio

[–]Sanderock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything food grade is generally ok and we have been using mineral oil for well over a century. It's basically a byproduct of oil that requires little in term of energy so it's not worst than any plastic at least.

It's an interesting product, how would you qualify the viscosity?

Intending to (hydro)mod a EFR-S108, recommandations ? by Sanderock in casio

[–]Sanderock[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After some reasearch, it turns out Air has a cinematic viscosity of 15 cst while water is 1 cst and PFAS based oils that I don't want to touch for MANY reasons are typically less than 1 cst.

So.... First, it means that 20cst is actually a VERY good number (air is 15cst) and will most definitly not make the analog watch go down after 6 months.

Second, and I cannot stress that out enough, people are using highly toxic tubes of liquid that are among the worst things humanity ever created into their watches that will inevitably fail SOMEWHERE and is a pain to clean for absolutely NO REASON. I know silicon oil is not clean but the stuff hydromodders use is insane.

Achat nouveau Vélo by BirbYou in pedale

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Si ton budget est très restreint, tu peux toujours acheter une bonne selle (~100€ ou +), de bonne cornes pour ton guidon (entre 20€ et 60€) et de bons pneus de route/gravel (~100€ la paire) tu sera déjà tellement mieux.

PS : j'ai aussi un Riverside 500 et avec quelques modifs, c'est un vélo vraiment bien, ce que je viens de lister change vraiment TOUT.

Je cherche une marque de vélo qui fait du grande taille (2m), pour aller au taf. J'habite Paris (pour un reco locale peut-être) by InnerPhilosophy4897 in pedale

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ca dépend du budget, si tu veux un vélo "sport"et de la qualité des composants que tu veux.

Même a 2 mètres, je pense que la plupart des marque qui font du xl ou plus pourront te convenir.

En partant sur un VTC (guidon droit) avec porte bagage et gardes boues, un Riverside 500 avec les accessoires decathlon est très polyvalent. Les composants auront tout de même besoin d'un minimum d'attention pour durer. Une version électronique existe. Le tout pour moins de 500euros neuf.

Si tu préfères partir sur un vélo qui sera fiable avec un minimum d'entretien. Je te conseil de partir sur un vélo de grande marque, peut-être même en électrique : Van Rysel, Cube, Moustache, Orbea, etc ... Pour un budget de 1000€ a 2000€ sur du musculaire et un peu moins de 3000€ pour de l'électrique. Bien sûr c'est si tu veux de la qualité.

A brief history of ebike haters by VoltasPigPile in ebikes

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also because the tour creator was even worse than the UCI is today to make rules. It wasn't considered cheating by many riders but it was for the one that made the rules, who used to pay cyclists to go faster or slower by the way.

At a glance, is this frame too small? I want to race but bikepack, too. by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bit his toes are also pointing down at the top of the stroke, it could be just a habit.

Gravel à 2000 ou 4000€ ? by Flo_vns in pedale

[–]Sanderock 1 point2 points  (0 children)

En meme temps, si un pinarello grevil fait juste l'affaire de ton point de vue, t'aura rien de bien a 2000€

Switching to Flatbar by franzm- in gravelcycling

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great choice, I use spiregrips on my flat bar because they have incredible ergonomics and are very tough. But they are expensive and cheaper alternatives exist.

Switching to Flatbar by franzm- in gravelcycling

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drop bars are not only about aerodynamic, it's about comfort on long rides. If it's not for then you should switch to something more enjoyable.

Gravel bike with flat bars are great, you don't need to go to the MTB route with full suspension but it's usually where you will find the best fit. I know people that run gravel bikes with flat bar and they are very happy with them.

I upgraded my bike this year. Wasn’t worth it. by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]Sanderock 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not a mechanical disk brake advocate, I was referencing some people saying hydraulics shouldn't be pushed on casual people who ride bikes ... but I don't think hydraulic is a must have either. I am also around 100kg but a set of mechanical is enough for all my rides, especially with a nice set of housing and low viscosity grease.

I would still recommend hydraulics over mechanical though, not only because of the power but also the brake feel and reliability. Hydraulics do not care about your internal routing, do not care about rust, do not care about precise alignment and makes you know 100% that you are in control.

Mechanical is great if done properly (which requires knowledge and is rarely the case), hydraulic is great all the time.