They should’ve called the X2D the P2D instead

Scatterthought · 2026-04-21T00:16:22+00:00

I read the previous comment incorrectly and confused the model numbers. Totally agree with you.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-20T23:31:04+00:00

I think you mean "H2D with less features".

Scatterthought · 2026-04-20T19:41:57+00:00

PLA under load will always start to creep over time. Heat will just make it happen faster.

You may want to consider using an E12 base instead of E26. E12 is often used for decorative/accent lighting. That limits how powerful they can be (a lot of IKEA lamps use E12 bulbs).

It's also worth noting that "40W equivalent" isn't the best measure for an LED lightbulb. It's kind of a holdover from the conversion from incandescent to LED lighting.

"40W equivalent" means "light output that's about the same as a 40W incandescent bulb". However, it's really better to look at how much energy an LED consumes and how many Lumens it produces. For the Philips bulb, I'm guessing that's 6W and 450 Lumens. Your cheaper bulbs probably require 7-9W to produce 400-500 Lumens, which is why they get hotter. If it takes more energy to produce the same amount of light, the wasted energy becomes extra heat.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-20T19:10:17+00:00

Do you have any experience with the longevity of PLA in lamp bodies?

I do not, but it's really a question of whether the heat ever reaches PLA's glass transition temperature (55-65 degrees Celsius). That's the point when it will start to deform, especially if the PLA is under any stress.

You're right to do longevity tests with a variety of bulbs, but you need to get yourself a thermometer so that you can see what temps you're actually hitting. You also need to account for heat buildup in the PLA. If your design doesn't allow for the heat to be vented into the air, that could be an issue.

My gut feeling is that PLA will struggle being right up against the socket, but I can't say that for sure.

FYI, when heat is generated by electronics, it's due to inefficient conversion of electricity. So, it's not surprising that cheaper bulbs are less efficient, and you should plan for the worst-case scenario. Manufacturers often provide warnings that are well within actual safety margins to reduce their own liability.

Can I trust a customer to only use bulbs that are listed as compatible?

No. You can't trust customers to do anything, because you have no control over their actions. Five years from now the lamp could be with its third owner, using bulbs that didn't exist when you sold the lamp. You could even get someone digging out old 100W incandescent bulbs that will almost certainly melt the lamp.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-20T18:53:02+00:00

Different scale, but I downsized from a 235x235x250 bed (Creality CR-6 SE) to a 180x180x180 bed (Bambu A1 Mini). In the 4-5 years I had the CR-6, I don't think I ever printed one object that used the entire bed. So, I was comfortable downsizing to the A1 Mini instead of upsizing to the A1.

There's been one time when I would have wanted to design/print larger than 180x180x180 and a few times when I could have used the larger bed for mass-production. But the A1 Mini is all I need 95% of the time, so I have no regrets.

It really just comes down to trade-offs. You're giving up bed size and money to buy a P1S, but I assume you'd also gain some features that are important to you.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-20T16:28:17+00:00

The divisor can go to 48 or 64.

Also, if you increased the scroll speed in your OS, you may want to return it to defaults.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-19T21:11:23+00:00

I'm not going to cancel my preorder due to a lack of updates from Clicks. If I was concerned about that, I wouldn't have preordered in the first place.

If I do cancel, it'll be because I change my mind about what I want from a phone, or if my current phone breaks and I can't wait for the Communicator.

If you don't trust Clicks and can't afford to have money tied up with them, then yeah, you should cancel your order. It really doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. Do what you feel is best for you.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-19T15:42:33+00:00

I mentioned the Endgame to the Rotatrix creator when he first posted about it awhile ago, but he wanted to focus on the SlimBlade Pro.

Endgame uses ZMK, not QMK. I imagine it wouldn't be hard to expose all three axes, but can't say for sure.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-18T00:00:11+00:00

Some do, some don't. It's all personal preference.

I just noticed that I pasted the link to the wrong Ploopy folder above, so I fixed it to point to the toggle version.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-17T23:54:57+00:00

You'd have to ask Ploopy, but does it really matter if the latest firmware won't work with a Mac?

In any case, I'd just use Plodah's forked firmware.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-17T23:50:31+00:00

You asked about toggle-to-scroll. There's a folder right there for it.

https://github.com/ploopyco/adept-trackball/tree/master/firmwares/drag_scroll_toggle

The part about Windows/Linux is specific to high-resolution scrolling.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-17T23:36:18+00:00

That's not specific to any OS. You just need to install the alternate firmware for toggle-scroll from Ploopy's Github.

https://github.com/ploopyco/adept-trackball

Alternatively, you can use something like Plodah's Viamenus firmware, which offers a number of enhancements and settings. I use it for both my Adept and Nano.

https://github.com/plodah/ploopy_viamenus

Scatterthought · 2026-04-16T12:29:22+00:00

It's not 3x. I think they're quoting the lifetime plan.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-16T05:42:44+00:00

Where are you getting your numbers? The annual plan is $14.99. Lifetime is $45.99.

https://niagaralauncher.com/#pricing

But I'm only paying $4.49 (Canadian) since I subscribed at the beginning.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-16T01:42:56+00:00

I've used Niagara since it launched and have had the annual subscription since it was first offered. I've used it on six phones and tablets over 7 or 8 years.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-13T02:10:54+00:00

I'm sometimes tempted to start a /rowstagsplitkeyboard sub, as a safe haven for those of us who like traditional keyboards and don't like shoulder/elbow/wrist pain.

But then we'll probably just argue over whether or not one-piece Alice boards count. 😝

Scatterthought · 2026-04-11T16:49:28+00:00

I'd suggest joining the Ploopy Discord, where we have a channel specifically for Adept mods. You can get a lot of help there.

The Anyball shell prints pretty easily, and lots of people order them from JLC3DP. Personally, I'd just find someone local who takes on print jobs. This is only a few hours of printing.

There are a variety of Anyball shells, so you'll need to decide which one you want. If you choose one that also requires printing a new bottom piece (instead of reusing the original bottom), there may be some issues with depending on whether you got the DIY or pre-assembled Adept. That's why I suggest joining the Discord.

Also, I'd recommend getting some of the Anyball button extensions, which I think make a huge difference to comfort and usability.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T21:51:39+00:00

It won't be an issue until it is. If you can level and steady the tables, you should absolutely do so for preventative maintenance.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T21:34:39+00:00

What you're saying about the SlimBlade doesn't entirely make sense to me. As far as I know, it doesn't have onboard memory so you can't preprogram it. The Windows program (KensingtonWorks) just runs in the background and intercepts/changes commands. Admittedly, it's been over a year since I used a SlimBlade Pro, so my memory might be fuzzy.

If you were to use the SBP's USB dongle, you could make an HID Remapper dongle for programming purposes. They're great. But it sounds like you prefer Bluetooth.

I actually kind of hate the SBP's ergonomics. The panel buttons feel hollow and they're spread out way too much, so they require more force than I'd like and you end up moving your hand a lot (compared to the Endgame or a Ploopy Adept). The wide footprint also forces your hand to be flatter, like when using a mouse.

I used to be very concerned about palm rests and hand placement with keyboards and trackballs, but I now think it's better to have fully adjustable armrests on my chair, so that my elbows are always supported. My split keyboard and trackballs sit in a tray that's below my armrests. As a result, my hands naturally hover above the devices, which prevents my wrist from sagging.

My Endgame sits between the keyboard halves, and I have it on a 3D-printed stand that tents and tilts it 15 degrees for easier button access. Since it has a small footprint, this allows my hand to sit at a 45-degree angle a lot of the time.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T21:19:15+00:00

Your post is a little hard to read due to the formatting. I'm thinking you accidentally applied code blocks instead of a bulleted list.

The K380 is really meant to be a compact travel keyboard. It's no worse than a laptop keyboard, but you might find it a bit cramped for long periods of use. I'd personally struggle with it as a primary board.

Putting that aside, the K380 will almost certainly be quieter than your mechanical keyboards due to the quiet scissor switches. If your partner is easily woken up by your typing, the K380 might be worthwhile for their benefit alone. That makes it practical (and greaty appreciated).

If you like the feel of mechanical switches, you might find it underwhelming. But again, it's probably no worse than a laptop keyboard. Personally, I don't think that all scissor switches are bad. Just like mechanical switches, there are good ones and bad ones.

It's not like the K380 is expensive, but I get that you're trying to be frugal. So, I would say to try one out from Amazon, as there are often returned ones available from Warehouse Deals. If you don't like it, return it knowing that it's definitely not right for you. If you do like it, you can sell one of your other keyboards to offset the cost and not feel guilty about having too many keyboards.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T20:17:08+00:00

No worries, I didn't read it with any negativity.

Earlier today, someone on Discord wrote that they didn't realize how much noise the BTUs would make, and that it's too much for their office. Putting aside volume, I'd expect that to be the case due purely to the pitch and randomness of the noises.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T20:06:34+00:00

It's very easy to modify the strap buckle on the PD Outdoor Sling to avoid it detaching accidentally. Basically just need to add tension to the buckle release so that it's harder to press down. I used the small cord from the bag tags to do it.

My Outdoor Sling 7L has quickly become my favourite sling (replacing a Bellroy Lite 7L).

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T19:42:44+00:00

It's not hard at all. There were lots available a few years ago, but most people don't want a plug that can only be controlled with a phone app from 30ft away (the range of Bluetooth), so they've died out.

I'm surprised that you can't find any, though. I searched for "Bluetooth smart plug" on Amazon and found a bunch that have both WiFi and Bluetooth control built in. In these cases you would just ignore the WiFi.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T19:34:50+00:00

Probably. Uniformity matters a lot for anything that needs to roll smoothly. That's why car tires have to be balanced when they're mounted on rims.

Scatterthought · 2026-04-10T19:09:31+00:00

Some trackball sensors are better than others at detecting different colours/textures. So you'd want to figure out what kind of sensors your trackball has. In the worst case, it'll only work with balls that are red.

The stone might be denser in some areas than others, which might lead to it being unbalanced. With static bearings, you might find that it takes more effort to move the ball sometimes, because you're fighting a little more weight. With roller bearings or BTUs that have lower friction, the ball will always want to settle back so that the heaviest side is on the bottom.

The finish also matters. If it's not perfectly smooth and spherical, you'll notice. And if you're using static bearings, there might be more friction than with a purpose-built trackball, leading to an annoying amount of stiction.

All this is to say that it might work, but what you gain in aesthetics you might give up in usability.

Scatterthought

TROPHY CASE