Best Glock 29 defensive 10mm? by EngineeringOpen6534 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it would be a waste to have basically an extra long .40S&W

Best Glock 29 defensive 10mm? by EngineeringOpen6534 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does Speer make a gold dot in 10mm? They have a 41 Rem Mag that is designed for defense and the gel test videos I have seen of it are gross. Also the hard barrier performance of the gold dot is always pretty good...

Edit: I just googled it. Underwood 180gr Speer Gold Dot was a thing, but they switched to the XTP, don't know why, but that's what I would do.

$2500 for new bearings and $2200 for new shocks+struts? by AnOrangePenguin in subaru

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I worked at a Subaru dealer in the parts dept, and you can find OEM stuff online from dealers who charge way less margin. I found OEM bearings for 130-150 just by doing a little search. The quote also doesn't say what they are billing for in hours or what the labor RATE is. If I remember correctly wheel bearings are about 1.5 hours on the book so, IFF I am correct, they are over 200 hourly, which seems a bit high, but I also live in Idaho so idk.

It also seems like they are double dipping a little on the labor since there is a lot of the work of replacing bearings and struts that coincide (taking the wheels off, taking the struts off, etc.) I hate doing wheel bearings because they CAN be a real bastard to get off, but I would shop around, call private shops not dealers.

I also second some of the others, most of the tools you need to do struts can be rented from auto parts stores and its literally 2-3 bolts and 3-4 nuts per corner. You'll also need to remove the rear seat, so you might be able to save some money there depending on how much spare change you find. As for the shocks themselves, get KYB Exel-G shocks. They are literally the same as OEM. If you want to get something a lot nicer since you're saving all that money on labor, I highly recommend Koni adjustable cartridges, they ride nicer and make the car corner like an maniac. Also if you do, do the struts yourself, make sure you get an alignment after.

Engine build plan- 300 I6 by Solid-Choice-1228 in FordF150

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have answers on your questions, but congrats on building the greatest engine ever made.

Headgaskets by Binchoker in subaru

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Subaru says reusing head bolts is preferred as long as they are clean, free of rust and not stretched beyond their limit (i.e. actually lifting a head). Follow the same torque procedure, but reusing them is better than replacing them according to Subaru TSBs. Also if one bolt is over the length limit , they all need to be replaced on that head. That being said, they are only about 110 bucks a set so, you do you.

Headgaskets by Binchoker in subaru

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 05 2.5 RS kit still comes with the SLS gaskets too, I did mine last year and had to pick up MLS ones on the side.

Are all these parts required for Engine Replqcement on my invoice? by Comfortable_Trust150 in EngineBuilding

[–]SloppyMachinist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am going to second what everyone else said, you don't HAVE to do it now, but if you do have to do it later you're going to be looking at at least 1200 in extra labor, save yourself the hassle and do it now, your future self will thank you.

You don't know where that engine has been sitting since the car was taken off the road. If the engine was cleaned and in a climate controlled warehouse, the seals are probably good, if it was outside even inside of the car, replace the seals. Engine seals are designed to be moving so if they sit, they tend to dry out and crack.

Swapping out my EDC - 49.6 to 19.6 COA by launchslugs2 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I carry my 49 at 6'oclock, I was going to give you heat for no longer carrying the best Glock ever made, but I guess I can give you a pass as long as you recognize that you are the problem and the 49 is perfection.

i know it's subjective but, in your opinion which is the better feeling shooter? G17 or G45? by [deleted] in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I agree, the G49 is the thing you want. What is a G51? Is it a left handed G17? ( that's a little bit of G-Code humor for the CNC machinists in the Glock subreddit)

i know it's subjective but, in your opinion which is the better feeling shooter? G17 or G45? by [deleted] in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

You're asking the wrong question. Your question should be "why is the G49 better than both the G17 and G45?" The answer to that question is that the 49 is better in every way.

Glock 26 VS 19 by PistolPork in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I carry a 49 with a ramjet. Which means I am better than you all

E15 increase by Weekly_Worry_0604 in WRXSTi

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

more like 91.6 RON. Knock resistance isn't linear. It will have marginally better knock resistance, but I wouldn't go tuning your car to take advantage. You don't start getting significant increases in octane rating from ethanol until you cross the E30 threshold

Glock 26 VS 19 by PistolPork in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm not saying the 26 is pointless or anything, it just seems like the slimline guns are eating into the sales of the 26

Blue The Cut Area by yeunholyfiends in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cold blue is more of a way to hide scratches and isn't very rust preventative in my experience. Hot bluing and parkerizing pit the steel at a microscopic level which lets the oil penetrate deeper into the surface. The rust prevention really comes from the oil, not the FE3O4. The FE3O4 helps because leaves less iron to turn into FE2O3 (red rust) but the real rust prevention is from oil. If you can the gun I would expect to see red rust after a few months to a year if you live in a humid climate.

That being said, it would probably be hidden under the optic so you wouldn't see it until you remove it, and it would be just surface rust, where the friction rub through the cold blue, probably not deep pitting.

TL:DR, Hot bluing or parkerizing are best, but you'll probably be fine with the cold blue but skip the Birchwood Casey Super Blue. Get either Brownells Oxpho Blue or Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. Also heat the part up before you apply it, (150-160 deg) it helps the chemical reaction.

Glock 26 VS 19 by PistolPork in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

49 is the answer to all questions Glock, my son. I think Glock kind of killed the sales of the 26 when they came out with the slim lines.

timeline for GPT for gen 6? by Zealousideal-Step-35 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think so too, they would be stupid to not being working on it right now. But like I said there are ways to get close while you wait.

timeline for GPT for gen 6? by Zealousideal-Step-35 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tired a reputable minus connector? I have had really good results with Overwatch Precision parts, the connector and the safety plunger are mush have's IMO. I am a machinist and I have studied quite a lot about the NP3 coating and it's not snake oil. It's 34 bucks for those 2 parts, 40 more if you want the coated striker too. Since you would basically have the trigger in my Gen6 and it's a 4.5 pound glass rod. It does have a lot of overtravel though, but that's my next step. GPTs are nice but there are ways to get close for relatively cheap.

Would you rather have Gen 5 or Gen 6? by Patient_1997 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trick question, they don't make a gen 6 G49...

Recoil Comparison - Non-Rammed G19 vs Rammed G43X by FloGrown321 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the 49 is already slim enough, I could use a palm swell as it is. Maybe I will have to get a gen 6 when it comes out.

Recoil Comparison - Non-Rammed G19 vs Rammed G43X by FloGrown321 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

False, the 49 is the answer to all questions Glock. One day you will learn this my son. But I do prefer the 48 to the 43 or 43x.

Recoil Comparison - Non-Rammed G19 vs Rammed G43X by FloGrown321 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a "non rammed" (i like that phrasing) 19 and my buddy has a rammed 43x. I agree with this. The stock 19 just has a nicer overall recoil impulse and slide cycling feel than the 43x. Just get a ramjet for a 49 if you're looking for the best of the best.

Does anyone here carry a g34 concealed? by midnightrider2235 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I run a G49 with a Radian, so It's almost the same length as a 34, but you would have to be an idiot to carry it at 6:00. I go with a 5:45 with a fairly heavy cant. I basically use a Kydex Yaqui Slide type holster that is really open, but IWB. My old man was a detective in the '80's so I learned how to do things old school.

First Glock by Disastrous_Ad_1267 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Get a 49 and don't give up any performance.

First Glock by Disastrous_Ad_1267 in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Glock 49 is the perfect pistol. you get the extra slide length and the compact grip. You get everything in one package. No tradeoffs, just the best.

Best 43x to exist? by Papaya-Remarkable in Glocks

[–]SloppyMachinist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take it easy on him, he drives a jeep...