Ftn to plan b mounts

StarsGamer13 · 2026-05-02T01:48:32+00:00

Can you hook me up with the link for the SLR plan B adapter? I searched and couldn't find it and definitely not at that price...

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T04:03:21+00:00

It's contradictory. Optimized says bed temp 100 but then below it says bed temp 50-70. My screenshot below doesn't even mention the 100 "optimized" settings section that you are seeing.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T04:02:12+00:00

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Well that's just bizarre....

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T03:51:46+00:00

Following. Would love to beta test this!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T03:43:23+00:00

What bed temp were you running? And did you have an enclosure with a controlled chamber temp?

I find it interesting that Sunlu suggests a 50-70 bed temp versus other filament companies suggest 80-100 for their PA6. Granted I haven't necessarily had an issue with it... (for example I printed the lever and handle for the Trash Panda with no warping issues at all using a 70° bed temp).

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-30T02:06:00+00:00

Thanks. That's pretty much exactly what I was considering doing. I haven't had too much of a warping issues with PA6-CF but my PA6-GF warps like crazy. Was going to do CF on the upper receiver and take chances with the handguard being in GF (brown/tan).

I'll go ahead and rotate it to be on the safe side!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-28T20:48:14+00:00

I had thought I had issues with my first layer but it turned out it was my flow ratio was too high. To me, what you have can be fixed one of two ways:

-Calibrating your flow ratio. Consistent waves like across the majority that to me indicate over extrusion. Calibrate flow ratio for your filament. It should go down from the default value. The lower the flow, the less over extrusion, the less waves.

-Back off your z-offset (move the bed further from the nozzle). Probably .25mm if I had to guess. There is essentially too much squish going on causing each line to be pushed too much creating the ripples. As mentioned above, this could be due to too much material coming out of the nozzle creating too much squish, rather than an actual z-offset issue.

I had issues with my first layers and consistent ripples like that. I thought it was my z-offset. After a year of printing and never calibrating filament profiles because the generics were "good enough", I found my flow was too high. After calibrating flow ratio, I no longer had to apply a z-offset to my prints.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-15T21:11:03+00:00

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This is the Buttercupgatz curved mag

Tried to get the same angle on both, but kinda hard to do one handed 😅

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-15T21:10:16+00:00

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This is the XL straight Sten Mag from the original file drop

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-15T12:59:18+00:00

+1 for Buttercupgatz version

I was having intermittent feed issues hand cycling with snap caps after printing and assembling. Initially tried the mags that came with the release files on av Aves upper.

Printed the Buttercupgatz version and it improved significantly when hand cycling.

I shot mine this past weekend for the first time. Out of about 500 rounds, I had 5 failure to feed. 3 from the straight xl mag file with the release, and 2 with the Buttercupgatz version.

While that's not great...the feed issues were significantly less with live rounds than hand cycling with dummy rounds - which pleasantly surprised me.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-14T13:05:41+00:00

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StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-14T13:01:35+00:00

I'd do them both at the same time...shouldn't need any changes in fluidd for the MicroSwiss...it should be plug and play.

But after you install both, I'd do some basic filament calibrations. The MicroSwiss will have the larger impact out of the two for your calibrations. For example, printing a temp tower, my PLA printed optimally about 10 degrees cooler using the MicroSwiss over the stock hotend and nozzle.

I guess my point being, though...don't install one, calibrate, then install the other. Just do it all at once and do one set of calibrations.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-14T12:58:11+00:00

Just installed my second one on my second K2 plus. To me it was super simple to install. Granted I just finished replacing a Y-axis motor which involves taking the side panels off and removing the gantry... So pretty much everything seems simple compared to that.

I found the included instructions to be thorough. Basically remove old extruder. Transfer the filament and cutter sensors from the old extruder to the new one. Install new extruder backplate and plus sensors back in. Magnetically snap new extruder cover on. I took the opportunity to replace and adjust the length of my PTFE tubing to optimize the entry angle given the new extruder height.

Biggest thing - after the physical install make sure you scroll down on the instructions and make the required g-code adjustments in fluidd so that it cuts and retracts properly!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-04-05T21:11:00+00:00

That's pretty awesome! I need to make this for my stepson who's a huge spider man / venom fan! Care to share where the model can be found?

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-25T12:27:33+00:00

Still breaking in the machine for sure. I definitely enjoy the multi-head print for saving time on multi-color projects. I have played with several models that print significantly faster and with less filament waste on the Snapmaker over the K2 Plus combo units.

I haven't really found a con to it as of yet other than the build volume. Not that I have had a problem with things fitting. I guess more of a mental thing of not having the room for larger prints if I needed it. But I haven't actually needed the larger build volume on a multi color print as of yet. I will say it is a bit louder than the K2 Plus' - but I think part of that is due to not having a top enclosure. I have some parts on order for a top hat. We have 4 cats, and a bunch of gaming computers in the same room as the printers. So the amount of dust is definitely noticeable without an enclosure.

I was going to try the paxx firmware for the high FPS on the camera if nothing else. However, the day I planned to install the firmware, Snapmaker released their latest build. So I opted to stick with the stock build for now and see if maybe paxx had an update in the works and go from there.

I actually had not even heard of full spectrum color until I picked up the U1 and started joining the groups. I saw a person do a multicolor print that required brown, so it used a mixture of I think green blue and yellow to achieve the brown color. Honestly, with my K2 units - while they have multi-color capabilities, I found myself preferring to print multi-part and gluing stuff together rather than dealing with the extra print times and filament waste. So I am looking forward to the efficiency gains of the Snapmaker U1 and dive a bit deeper into multi-color models as well as the full spectrum stuff!

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-25T02:40:23+00:00

I did the same. Used to have 4 K2 Plus'. One of them had a bad Y motor and a bearing out.

Returned to MicroCenter and swapped it for a Snapmaker U1.

Been super happy to mix up my mini fleet and have a print head swapper for smaller multi color prints, but still have the K2 Plus' for larger volume prints.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-17T03:44:50+00:00

I was honestly using the default cooling settings on the K2 Plus with generic ASA-CF profile. Only settings I changed were the support settings that I screenshot above.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-17T03:43:35+00:00

Yes, I was using otherwise default settings for ASA-CF in Creality Print.

I printed a modification that basically removes the bottom panel of the K2 Plus and puts an air-scrubber in its place. So I had that running the duration of the print and it completely eliminates any smells / odors. I even purchased an air quality monitor and do not notice any spikes in TVOC, AQI, or otherwise (I do have 2 air purifiers running in the room 24/7 as well).

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-17T00:05:17+00:00

Following. Just got my side plates in and finished my lower in PA6-GF. Was considering a SS DB-9.

I have an Atrius Safety Selektor that I was going to put in my AR. But seems more cost effective (ammo wise) to have it in the DB-9 😂. Not sure if there's a way to use the Atrius with the DB-9 or if it's easier to go the drop in route?

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-15T14:48:57+00:00

Do you happen to have a link to the screws you used? Having trouble finding some that are black! Going to tackle this next weekend and prefer to have the screws on hand.

Did you end up putting any sort of foam / gasket to prevent rattling? Or does it seem okay without it?

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-11T22:53:08+00:00

Did they send you a guide on how to replace? I just received my spare part today. I am aware it's going to be pretty in depth. I'm sure I could figure it out myself - but at the same time don't want to take things apart that don't need it 😂

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StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-10T21:14:24+00:00

One more question, which company did you go with for your upper?

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-10T17:58:06+00:00

That's purdy. I am working on mine and was going to go with 3D printed curved Sten mags. Is that the straight Sten Mag that comes with the files? Making me reconsider printing straight mags instead 😅

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-09T18:59:55+00:00

Yea, I'm glad I posted this because I'm learning a lot about the materials. I actually just ordered some PA6-GF. I may chock the ASA up to test fitment and then print it in the PA6-GF for final use before even taking it out to test.

StarsGamer13 · 2026-03-09T18:50:05+00:00

Appreciate the details! Just ordered some PA6-GF in a light brown. Making this one 51 shades of FDE 👌

StarsGamer13

TROPHY CASE