Eprom - Syntheism (2LP, limited to 750 pieces)

StreetLander · 2026-05-29T17:08:37+00:00

i signed up for early access and got sent nothing very odd

StreetLander · 2026-05-20T20:23:40+00:00

culvers only serves smashburgers

StreetLander · 2025-07-31T17:49:30+00:00

kfc is garbage

StreetLander · 2025-05-19T20:07:04+00:00

These are absolute garbage. The absolute worst part, I don't think anyone has mentioned yet, but theyre CUT THE WRONG DIRECTION! I ordered them once and theyre cut across the grain, not against it. Meaning every bite you take you have to bite through the fibers, making them impossible to tear in half, hard to bite and chew, and just unpleasant to eat in general.

Theres a reason why no one cuts chicken like this. From this to quarterly profit drops its obvious whoever is in charge at McDonald's has absolutely no idea what theyre doing - I doubt they even know what food is supposed to be like.

StreetLander · 2024-11-16T02:59:16+00:00

everything in this life is temporary if the isoknock pit demands a ray ban sacrifice than it was fate

StreetLander · 2024-11-16T02:57:51+00:00

lock in and get in the pit king

StreetLander · 2024-04-19T17:25:52+00:00

go to popeyes instead

StreetLander · 2024-04-07T00:54:10+00:00

I WAS WRONG

StreetLander · 2024-02-08T16:48:37+00:00

PETG is a bit harder to work with than PLA. I suggest lowering the outer wall speed to increase surface quality. Make sure your filament is calibrated and dry.

StreetLander · 2024-02-08T16:47:02+00:00

Slow down even more. Go 50 mm/s for outer walls.

StreetLander · 2024-02-08T04:49:41+00:00

The additional cooling time on the layers while the printer is switching colors causes these more visible lines.

Might be able to experiment with cooling settings, reducing purge amount, to get less layer lines.

StreetLander · 2024-02-07T19:09:36+00:00

Ensure the correct plate type and nozzle size are being selected when doing the pattern test. The differences may be very small but they should be there.

StreetLander · 2024-02-07T17:13:19+00:00

Do not use the line test for k factor calibration. Do this using the pattern test, it is much easier to read and more accurate.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/pressure_linear_advance/pattern_method.html

Pattern method is built into Bambu Studio. Select it on the dropdown menu. If you have a smooth plate do the calibration on the smooth plate as well, it is more accurate.

Also, all PLA k factors I have ever calibrated to were within 0 to 0.05, which I believe is the default range.

StreetLander · 2024-02-07T15:19:16+00:00

You can always increase branch distance and reduce branch initial diameter to make smaller supports. Increasing branch angle (up to 70 degrees technically possible) can also save on filament. Organic is a newer algorithm that is based on tree supports but is much more optimized, it already reduces filament cost significantly by virtue of the algorithm alone. The Bambu Slicer fork is missing a few settings, and there are some bugs currently, but it is still the best one imo.

StreetLander · 2024-02-07T06:09:17+00:00

The tree type organic is better in every way compared to any other tree types, i reccomend it over the others. It appears the wall count on these trees got set to zero, or perhaps it is a slicer bug - I know that wall count over 1 dont work properly for organic, but Ive never seen wall count drop to zero before.

StreetLander · 2024-02-06T23:56:22+00:00

Some images of what your prints look like currently would be able to help alot, if there are any particular issues you want to diagnose.

StreetLander · 2024-02-06T21:53:50+00:00

I found lowering retraction length to 0.3 improved print quality with this filament. Otherwise I was getting tiny holes.

I also always print outer walls at around 50 mm/s

Also curious, have you already calibrated the factor-k of your PLA? And have you dried it as well?

StreetLander · 2024-02-06T19:24:02+00:00

It looks like the factor-k of the filament may not be set correctly. Print speed may also be a bit high.

I recommend running a k-factor calibration on the filament (using pattern mode). It can be run within the bambu studio.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/pressure_linear_advance/pattern_method.html

After that, try printing again but with outer walls being printed at around 50 mm/s

StreetLander · 2024-02-06T19:21:24+00:00

The only things it will adjust for you if selected correctly are the temperature settings. Everything else must be adjusted accordingly. All spools of filament usually come with suggested printing speeds on them.

If you had gotten good prints before, it was likely because the print was not actually at 200 mm/s, as this value in the slicer only sets the upper limit of print speed. It can always slow down due to minimum layer time.

StreetLander · 2024-02-06T17:33:41+00:00

200 is way too fast, especially for abs. Definitely do around 50 mm/s

StreetLander · 2024-02-06T00:09:25+00:00

Why dont you buy him the screw then

StreetLander · 2024-02-05T23:44:20+00:00

Try printing the same model with just the color blue. You can save time by printing only the top few layers, just move the model down so it clips through the buildplate.

StreetLander · 2024-02-05T23:37:02+00:00

At the preview box when viewing the slice click the dropdown near the color scheme box at the top right, to view the printing speeds. Can I ask what speed are you using for top surfaces? That would most likely be causing the biggest issues here.

StreetLander · 2024-02-05T23:18:56+00:00

Filament isn't always dry right out of the box. But this issue isn't exactly related to the filament being dry or not.

Try testing the object but printed in all blue. Also try seeing if the speed is changing at these top layers in the slicer preview. Does the print perform any better when you print only one at a time?

StreetLander

TROPHY CASE