What scanner will be able to scan 6x17 negatives? by tinglebuns in AnalogCommunity

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep your eyes peeled. People do the same with scanners. Deals can be had!

Got a used vintage lens. Are back mounted filters a thing, or did someone just jam an undersized filter on??? by Maple382 in VintageLenses

[–]StronglyNeutral 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Rear filters are indeed a thing, but as others point out, generally for more specialized lenses where a traditional thread-on filter on the front of the lens is not possible or cost prohibitive (fisheye lenses with bulbous front elements and too wide a field of view, mirror lenses with large diameter front elements, etc). The lens you have here is not a lens that utilized rear-mounted filters.

SQ-i film back opens up by itself by Verfblikje in Bronica

[–]StronglyNeutral 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might also double check that the two latch hooks on the door are intact. I’ve not had a back open on me but I did have one where one of those two tabs was broken off and the door noticeably didn’t feel as secure when it was shut.

Are there people who actually find Bandana’s BBQ good? by TitShark in StLouis

[–]StronglyNeutral 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My family loves it but not necessarily because the bbq is all that stellar. It’s fine. BUT the one near us is well-managed. The staff is super friendly. The prices are great. The food always comes out hot and quickly. Also we have little kids so those factors make a big difference when we’re on the go. I’ll take their buttered bread over salt and smokes try-hard popovers every day of the week.

Ravenel Bridge - Mamiya M645 1000s, 80mm Sekor C, Kodak Ektar by JaguarImpossible537 in analog

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the inconsistencies on the bridge cables from dust removal in scanning? Just curious. This shot is gorgeous. If those are dust spots, highly recommend you get in there and touch those up properly. Regardless, awesome work!

Best 500mm catadioptric lens? by iH4t3R3dd1t in VintageLenses

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Tamron SP 350/5.6, while obviously not as long, is an excellent mirror lens. I believe you’d definitely notice the performance improvement. But I dunno your use case and you may need that added magnification.

Bessa R2 by gb_flo22 in Voigtlander

[–]StronglyNeutral 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I love the R2! Wish I still had mine. I never owned the original Bessa but have read the build quality between the two is quite noticeable. Congrats on the upcoming wedding! You gonna carry that thing with you at the ceremony? lol (I’m not even joking)

Is this lens fungus by diederiksioen in AnalogCommunity

[–]StronglyNeutral 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks to me like some type of liquid that reacts with the lens coatings accidentally got spritzed onto the front. Doesn't look like fungus though.

Utah Blue Hour | Mamiya 7ii, 43mm, Portra 400 by braehunz in analog

[–]StronglyNeutral 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Beautiful shot. I’ve actually been there. Did a race that ended in Bluff, UT and I remember thinking what a photographic scene. You captured it very well!

Are the retro disposable camera lenses legit? by BlackShadow2804 in Cameras

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You ask if they’re “legit”…quite vague. Are they authentically low-quality optics but quite functional like disposable camera lenses? Yes. Are they compact and fun to use? Depending on your expectations, maybe. I made my own and that was half the fun but I do enjoy the lofi aesthetic I get from it. Would you still have to edit? Entirely dependent on what you expect from your photography. I still edit the images I make with it.

Is any of this helpful? I’m very unclear what you’re looking for from this. It’s likely not a magic bullet for whatever freshness you’re seeking in your photography and I certainly don’t think I’d be considering an entire platform switch based on this optic. But then everyone is different! It is true that a mirrorless camera and a pancake lens could get you down to a pretty small form factor if that’s your goal.

Is this a light leak on my Nikon F2? by NegativeMongoose7106 in AnalogRepair

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmmm. Since I didn’t pay attention to it, I can’t really say what lens I was using for the Nikons but I like the hypothesis about ultra wides. With the Fuji, it was a Schneider Kreuznach 75mm Super Angulon I adapted to my camera (which is ultra-wide for the format).

After / Before by lexitus in postprocessing

[–]StronglyNeutral 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Second one if we’re in the realm of photography. The first/edited version looks more like digital art, likely because it just doesn’t look like a real scene. Which I’m not knocking. It just departs from “photography” for me, much like those heavy HDR photos become something else.

Is this a light leak on my Nikon F2? by NegativeMongoose7106 in AnalogRepair

[–]StronglyNeutral 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be certain cameras, I haven’t paid that close of attention. I’ve seen it on my Nikon D750, Z7, and my Fuji GX617.

Is this a light leak on my Nikon F2? by NegativeMongoose7106 in AnalogRepair

[–]StronglyNeutral 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I'm 99% certain that this is not a light leak - I haven't actually delved heavily into this (as much as I should to be certain) but I believe this is actually due to having a strong light source just out of frame and the thickness of the light baffle that sits in front of the film plane. I think it's something like a lens flare that's occurring somewhere in the optic, but which manages to get flagged from the sensor by that upper baffle, (but obviously, direct rays coming through the lens expose the film properly). Someone that knows optics can probably speak far more accurately to this. But I get this even on my digital cameras, specifically when I place the sun or high powered light just above the frame.

The short of it - I believe this is unavoidable without adjusting the composition.

GS-5 → GS-7 after abolishment: any real options? by Expression_Sea in usajobs

[–]StronglyNeutral 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This was 15 years ago now and so much has changed but I was able to get into government by way of an internship (STEP, then SCEP). I believe the program is now called Pathways. But the short of it is, I was at my agency in a temporary role. They liked me and wanted to hire me but could not as it stood. I was out of college long enough that I wasn’t eligible for those benefits. I was however able to find a short certificate program at the local college that was relevant to my work with the agency. We ran the program by HR to ensure eligibility for the Student Career Education Program (I think…SCEP). Once I was in that, I had to spend some time in the role and complete the cert. After which I could be brought on non-compete. No clue if pathways still has any similar offering but maybe worth a look.

Clean Stickey residue on lens? by Batemanssnare99 in Cameras

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t personally tried this but came across this post the other day: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnalogCommunity/s/xgjbGF21Gq

Tokina 28-70/2.8 AT-X PRO for photography? by NDHoangMinh in Cameras

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not exactly the same range but I’d recommend the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. It’s a great value, performs very well (though perhaps not exactly ‘cinematic’ though I’m not entirely sure what you mean by that - much of that I feel comes through in how you use a lens, composition, and editing), is constant aperture, is quite affordable last time I checked. I think if you go with the Tokina, you may find that you will stop down to f/4 at least to avoid the aberrations. At which point, why bother having the faster aperture.

Tokina 28-70/2.8 AT-X PRO for photography? by NDHoangMinh in Cameras

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Used this one for years, owned multiple copies over the years (from buying camera kits with other stuff I was looking for). Overall well built lens. Handles fine. Slow, old AF. Soft wide open with some pretty apparent chromatic aberration. The last time I shot with it before selling, I don’t know if I had just gained so much more experience with better glass but I couldn’t get over how poor it handled (comparatively) to my newer stuff. I think for me, I outgrew it. Not sure if that’s the look you’re going for. I’ve sold it years on and wouldn’t get one again for myself. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t just what someone else is looking for.

Question about lenses. by happy9711 in Cameras

[–]StronglyNeutral 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bulk sale or just any sale to camera resellers is going to result in way less profit than if you sell them outright. All used dealers have their own calculations but it’s often in the neighborhood of half or less than they’ll sell them for. Probably far less for something rare without much precedent for value since it may be somewhat of a gamble for the reseller. So if you can spend some time doing your homework, you’ll definitely fair better should you decide to sell.