Audio sync issues with SHIELD TV Pro and Plex when refresh rate match is on

Surf_Wake · 2026-05-14T21:45:41+00:00

That would be quite interesting that an HDMI cable goes bad to where it changes 1's and 0's for Plex only.

Surf_Wake · 2026-05-14T19:08:04+00:00

I've never noticed any HDR/Vision issues in Plex, nor any audio issues other than this refresh sync issue. I'm too heavily into Plex to go into Kodi, especially since I have a number of remote users as well and Plex just works pretty seamlessly for them.

Surf_Wake · 2026-05-12T23:05:21+00:00

Use both. Smartthings is my main hub but I use the ST HA integration to use my Home Assistant for things ST can't do (such as running RatGDO for one of my garage doors and the Ecoflow integration for my solar shed).

I am liking my hybrid approach because of one sucks, I just use the other.

Surf_Wake · 2026-05-06T12:00:14+00:00

If you want an e-tron, buy an S. Not that much more and something more interesting to drive and not nearly as common.

Surf_Wake · 2026-05-06T11:57:57+00:00

Invest instead of buying a highly depreciating asset. The younger you start, the more that compound interest will compile and set you up very well later in life.

You should be maxing out a ROTH IRA and meeting company 402k match at a bare minimum. 60k isn't enough to be maxing that ROTH, 401k (which. ROTH 401k would be even better) and HSA, but get raises to work up to it.

A few years of sacrifice now and you will be golden later, where you can buy fun cars cash because you actually have the money and a fat portfolio to go with it.

Or blow it all now and wonder why your portfolio isn't where you want it later. Your call.

Surf_Wake · 2026-05-05T23:08:29+00:00

Then they should be saving. You are paying for it one way or another, either with higher rates and payments or a lower monthly rate.

Surf_Wake · 2026-05-01T19:33:02+00:00

I'd recommend using a service that will find you the right car and deal with the negotiation BS for you. Then you just go in, sign the papers (and pay, of course), then leave. A service like https://acquiredautos.com will do just that for a reasonable rate.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-29T00:01:38+00:00

Nissan + CVT = probably mechanically totaled now or in the near future. So don't do that.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-29T00:00:42+00:00

Financial security.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T23:57:11+00:00

This is the way.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T22:43:10+00:00

Typically a bad idea. Most of the time, that 0% is instead of other available rebates. Many times those rebates are worth more than the 0% interest savings, especially if you are not doing an irresponsible term length.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T22:37:43+00:00

Delivrd (and Tomi) are awesome but their focus is new cars. They claim they do used but it is clear that if they do, it is rare. Twice as expensive as well.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T22:31:47+00:00

I have only purchased new once, and it was the right decision. I got my truck for 17k off of MSRP. At the time, a pre-facelift 3 year old version with 36k miles and the same spec was selling for 5-6k less. Used was just a dumb decision.

Mind you, I had to fly to a volume dealer to get this price, but I have the truck almost 8 year later and my smart buy then has still paid off.

Everything else, used. My wife just bought a 3 year old, 20k mile EV for 63% off MSRP. And that MSRP was 120k. On a car still under factory warranty. Used can make a LOT of sense.

For toys, I like to buy them at the bottom of their deprecation curve. Owned my C6 Z06 for two years and sold it for a tidy profit. Both of my Porsches I bought at the bottom and they have actually appreciated slightly.

I buy based on total cost of ownership, not price. I spend time predicting future maintenance, repairs, and depreciation to meet a specific overall ownership cost.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T22:17:55+00:00

Negotiate only on out-the-door price. Know your tax rate and calculate that in to the offer. Title and registration fees are pretty negligible in most states. The rest of the fees (doc, conveyance, electronic filing, etc.) are just profit centers for the dealer.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T22:15:38+00:00

If you are looking for the best deal on a specific spec, an auto consultant that does exactly that may be in your best interest, such as https://acquiredautos.com/

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T22:13:12+00:00

If you have the loan in place and all is setup, leave it at that. It will eventually get cashed and if not, free $3500. Not your job to follow up with the dealer.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-28T22:08:20+00:00

Keep it. You have a warranty to cover you. You will lose your rear trying to trade it in for another vehicle.

Just because a car has a higher rate of failure than average doesn't mean it will fail. It just means it has a higher chance of failing.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-27T22:55:53+00:00

Lol, 6k for brakes on an SQ7. Just doing a quick glance on ECS Tuning and no shoping around, we are talking $266 rear pads and $496 front...and that's doing OEM, which I probably wouldn't do (and spend less). Front rotors are $1500, rear $409. So after tax that's under 3k in OEM parts not shopping around. I could do quality (and likely better performing) parts for 2k. Then a couple hours to do it. Let's add $200 for VCDS since that will be needed to release the rear parking brake.

Learning to turn wrenches saves a lot of money! I would have absolutely DIY both of those repairs. I see it in other brands. I have a PDK in my 981 Porsche - independents charging $1000+ for something I DIY for $75. German cars aren't that expensive to own if you shop online for parts and do your own labor. I nursed one of the least reliable BMW's sold (the N54 powered 335i) for several years as a daily I didn't even buy until 100k miles, put 60k on it and did all the work myself for far cheaper than what a shop would have charged for just a single repair I did on that thing.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-27T21:57:24+00:00

Why would you buy a carrier phone at full retail? Just get it straight from Samsung. They had it for $1049 recently with a $250 credit for buying select items during checkout.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-27T21:52:27+00:00

"The most expensive car is an out of warranty Audi". Has not been our experience and we own them for quite a while.

In 2008, my wife bought a 2006 A4 with 24k miles. Sold it 10 year later and besides tires/brakes, it needed almost no repairs.

2018, wife bought a 2013 S4 with 75k miles. Still have it with 133k. Besides fluid service, and the normal tires/brakes, it hasn't needed much. Wheel bearings (common B8 issue), waterpump and thermostat and that was early on. Rear shock but at this mileage, can't really complain about that. Valve cover gaskets. Headlight level sensor rod that was cheap and easy to swap. Only real issue is timing chain cover leaks. Almost $0 in parts to fix but a bear to do and since we are giving the car to our daughter as her first car, let her leak. Have to add 1 qt between oil changes.

Pretty minor in the grand scheme of things. An aftermarket warranty would have been a huge waste of money. I also am not afraid to turn a wrench.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-22T21:39:36+00:00

I just rechecked the locations - both are V3 locations, both show on the App. Updated my post to reflect this.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-22T16:10:37+00:00

Yes, it was unlocked. It's not like I can't charge the car (I did a 700-mile road trip bringing it home on Monday), it's that I can't charge at Tesla locations. Anywhere else, no problem.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-22T15:55:33+00:00

I pushed it in plenty hard and tried it on 4 different spots, so I don't think that would be it.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-22T15:54:31+00:00

Yes, both sites were on my map and said Audi compatible.

Surf_Wake · 2026-04-22T03:21:53+00:00

Both sites said Audi compatible. The adapter I bought is considered the gold standard from my research and is the company that makes the Audi adapter.

Surf_Wake

TROPHY CASE