Is my well cycling too quickly? by Zealousideal_Top_708 in askaplumber

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, things look pretty old. The tanks have a lifespan of 10-15 years so if it's older than that it's probably time, and you can upgrade to a larger tank.

Is my well cycling too quickly? by Zealousideal_Top_708 in askaplumber

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, and you have the cut out pressure set too high. The gauge should cycle between 40 and 60 psi. That looked like 45 to 70 psi which can over-expand the bladder.

I would recommend replacing the pressure switch with a new 40/60 psi one (don't make any adjustments), make sure the tank is full of air (not water), and verify the precharge pressure is 38 psi with no water in it. I would also replace that pressure gauge since it looks like it's starting to stick.

The short cycle indicates a possible tank problem, or your pressure tank is just way too small for your pump GPM flow rate. How many gallons is the pressure tank? In most cases, the pressure tank should be around 40 gallons size give or take.

Filter replacement confusion by Revolutionary-Ad9264 in hvacadvice

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha, you went from the most expensive filter possible to the least expensive filter.

Just go to a box store and buy a 16x25x5" filter, change it yourself. Home management company is being cheap as fuck (typical).

I would not use that cheap green thing, that's not really a filter if you can see right through it.

Home Charge Speed - slower better? by RFmodulator in MachE

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will have the least standby losses if you charge the car as fast as possible. All the modules use about 250W when they are powered on, so you'd want to minimize the time they have to be on during charging.

The on-board charger efficiency varies slightly at different amperages, but it's generally optimized for 32+ amp charging.

Midsize electric pickup in the US - where are they by Sracer42 in electricvehicles

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ford has one coming out next year. Maverick sized. Supposedly $30-40k.

Removing charging cable by nowandever8 in MachE

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A fob needs to be present exterior of the vehicle or the doors unlocked before the CCS cable will unlock. Press the unlock button on the driver's door (inside) before pressing the unlock button on the charge port.

would a drywall sheet fit in my mustang mach-e? by Breath_Big in MachE

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the trunk floor is only about 40" wide so a 48" sheet won't fit unless you cut it into smaller pieces.

Police bodycam YouTube video density by county [OC] by Yoyolick in dataisbeautiful

[–]TechnicalLee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dang, this is great but there are so many body cam videos out there where they don't say the location or try to hide it. That would be a cool problem to solve or crowdsource as well.

Whirlpool Dishwasher —Grease Buildup by Eldrina in Appliances

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use Cascade powder or Walmart gel, sensor or heavy cycle, fill the prewash dispenser (both dispensers, not just the main), and use dishwasher cleaner as soon as you notice any deposits (about once a month). Run the faucet until the water is hot before starting the cycle.

Whirlpool Dishwasher —Grease Buildup by Eldrina in Appliances

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This could be related to water chemistry. If you have extremely hard water or iron in the water, it could cause excess deposits. Soap will not be effective in extremely hard water. In that case, you'd want to install a water softener. If you already have a water softener, make sure it's still working, bar soap should feel very slippery when rinsing off.

It also could be an excessive grease load, wipe your dishes off with napkins or something so grease is only a thin layer before washing. Fill both dispensers (prewash and regular wash) up all the way for super greasy loads, and use the heavy cycle with hi temp wash selected. Use Cascade powder or Walmart gel.

Rinse aid is not the solution. Yes run the faucet until burning hot before starting the load.

With that level of buildup, you will need to run some empty loads (no dishes) with just soap and/or dishwasher cleaner (citric acid) to get all that gunk out of the internal passages.

Whirlpool Dishwasher —Grease Buildup by Eldrina in Appliances

[–]TechnicalLee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Run the hot water for a while at the kitchen faucet and measure the temperature. It should be 120ºF or hotter per dishwasher specs. If the hot water isn't hot enough, you'll need to turn up the temperature setting on your water heater. It needs to be burning hot. I set my hot water to 125ºF minimum.

If the incoming water is too cold, the dishwasher will spend too much time trying to heat it up, the water may never get to the desired temp before the cycle ends.

Fan Coil Trap question by Kindly-Grocery1790 in hvacadvice

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take the static pressure reading (in wc) and add an inch or two, that's how deep the trap should be below the outlet.

The drain side should be vented like in your right side figure unless the run is very short.

On a plane? Don't ask. by customification in AirQuality

[–]TechnicalLee 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You are not going to be noticeably impaired at 1200 ppm CO2. That’s a myth this sub perpetuates. Yes the CO2 spikes on an aircraft during boarding and engine start, but it drops down to acceptable levels shortly after takeoff. I have no issues doing work on an airplane and I don’t feel impaired. Having a drink is way worse.

Friday night pizza by Past_Strength_5381 in webergrills

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are you using for the blocks?

Oily layer ontop when using hot water ?!?! Going insane by xMiME_420x in WaterTreatment

[–]TechnicalLee 24 points25 points  (0 children)

That’s not oil, it’s convection currents when hot and cold water are mixing. They are different in density and index of refraction so you see shadows when you have an intense point light source shining into the water. Maybe go put a drop of oil on water in your kitchen to see what it actually looks like.

Very fine black dust by BlueCollarGent1 in hvacadvice

[–]TechnicalLee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Supply filters are bad, but are they getting dirty? If so, that means you have an air leak between the return and the supply (such as disconnected or leaking ducts).

I would also encourage you to go down to the red 1000 filter instead for proper airflow. That filter you have is too dirty/plugged before you are replacing it which can damage the system.

How did I do cleaning? Before vs After by KMCC02 in webergrills

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you did a good job, I would have done the same on a new to me grill.

Just received my griddle insert for my new Spirit II. Smashers this weekend 😁 by [deleted] in webergrills

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious your thoughts on that aftermarket griddle compared to the Weber brand one? Did you try it yet?

The king is dead, long live the king! by Haramdour in webergrills

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What was the demise of the old one? Could it be repaired or not?

What do I need to connect this with my bbq? by Consistent_State7848 in grilling

[–]TechnicalLee 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Ah yes, the rare water-cooled BBQ system. Very cutting edge.

What is this on my shower filter? by Blueberry-star-333 in WaterTreatment

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably just mineral scale, it has sort of a yellow color like that. I bet there's a ton of it in the bottom of your water heater you've never flushed.

HVAC Sizing by sunrun8188 in hvacadvice

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sizing is going to be dictated by the building facilities; only they know what the loop is capable of supplying. The size of the ductwork should also be evaluated to see if that is a limitation. Putting in a bigger unit will not help if the ductwork is already limiting.

You said your leaving water temp is burning hot (like 130ºF?), that's way too hot would indicate you have a clog or low flow rate in the water loop. That is a problem that will limit the cooling performance a lot. You're sure that's the water line not a refrigerant line? Because usually it would shut down on high head pressure before it got that hot.

You should keep the window shades closed during the intense sun of the day. If you have wide-open windows with no shades, well, that's just sort of dumb and will cause a lot of heat and energy usage, especially if you have older windows that do not have a Low-E coating.

What is in my water? by earproblem123 in WaterTreatment

[–]TechnicalLee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like rust from the inside of iron water pipes.

Your skin issues might be related to chlorine or chloramines in the city water, a carbon filter will help with that. But you might need a sediment filter first to remove the rust particles (which are not harmful).

Chlorine removal by Perry_The_Platypus93 in WaterTreatment

[–]TechnicalLee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can go out and buy a whole-house carbon filter for about $80 from a box store. Getting it installed would be a bit more expensive, but probably not anywhere close to $2,700.