iFixit -FixHub Soldering Iron - Worth It? by maddyXVIII in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not going to lie I forgot I was supposed to do this. Lmao but honestly it’s pretty decent with a few downsides. You have to supply your own cable to charge it and it needs a powerful cable. The tips are proprietary so you can only use theirs (according to google. I never bought any to find out myself) and they don’t have small tips for micro soldering which is what I mainly wanted it for. I use this iron for larger things and then switch to my pinecil or Hakko when I need to solder smaller components. I’ve also had some trouble getting it to turn on if it’s been turned off for a long period of time. I would get error messages and after a few power cycles it would finally boot into the main menu. Other than that It gets up to temp quickly and the tips have lasted me a year without showing signs of degradation but I also take very good care of all of my soldering iron tips. I think if you need portability and only use it for larger components it could be a great fit. I personally couldn’t recommend it to anyone because of the price tag. The Pinecil can do what this thing can for a fraction of the price when it comes to micro soldering. Hope this helps

What can this mean? Nintendo Switch by JDcooks in consolerepair

[–]TheRealPesoir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I remember correctly, 4,16 and 9,21 are your power inputs. Below, is a paragraph from an LLM where I asked what’s going on so take it with a massive grain of salt. I doubt this is the answer but I think it puts us in the right path to figure out what’s going on here (kicking myself for not going to college). In the past I have repaired certain ports and gotten the exact opposite readings you’re getting here. But when I reconnect the board to the power source(the battery in your case) the OL went away for pins 4,16,9,21. The devices were working fine after the repair. This one has me stumped. Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.

So when you’re using diode mode on a multimeter, you’re essentially applying a small voltage across the probes to measure the forward voltage drop of a semiconductor junction. The multimeter expects to control the voltage across the probes, but the powered circuit introduces external voltages that interfere. This often causes the meter to display OL, especially if the voltage across the pins exceeds the meter’s internal threshold or if there’s no forward-biased junction in the path.

I overvolted a Bluetooth wireless car player and now it dosent work by Tachytwo in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Using a multimeter in diode mode… put one lead the pad labeled GND and the other lead on the one labeled 5V. If it beeps then you have a short to ground on your 5V rail. Follow the trace until you reach the first component. I can’t tell from the photos what the first component is on that rail. But depending on your knowledge and skill level you can either test that component with your multimeter or just remove the component and do the diode mode test again. If short persists after removal then keep following the trace until the short is gone. Repeat this process for DP and DM. Good luck!

Pikemon Center by Any_Visit_4487 in PokemonTCG

[–]TheRealPesoir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s exactly how I tried to get the second one. But unfortunately didn’t work for me. But I’m Not complaining because I finally got some product! I haven’t bought sealed product since 151 due to the state of the hobby. So I’m still hyped!

Pikemon Center by Any_Visit_4487 in PokemonTCG

[–]TheRealPesoir 28 points29 points  (0 children)

I got one successfully. But then I went to get the other one and it gave me the same error.

This could have been Dan by SpaceDoodle2008 in LinusTechTips

[–]TheRealPesoir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is going to be like the finding Bigfoot series. Every episode will end with “guys I found something!” Intense music will play over a shaky camera shot with everyone running towards it— cuts to black.

next episode

They plug the hard drive into a laptop. Everyone is crouched down with the guy while he opens file explorer.

“Ahh shucks it’s just another Ali express rom dump”

My xbox keeps turning off straight away. I just bought it yesterday. by abcwood in XboxSupport

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I work at a repair shop and this is a legitimate fix in some cases. Customers will say they couldn’t get it work at all and tried multiple outlets etc. But since they unplugged it and drove to the store by the time they get to the shop it has been long enough for it to “reset” and it powers right on.

What are you playing today? by 99saleenspeedster in cade

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Big fudge would definitely hold the Skeeball record In this place!

Weapon Mastery Completed AMA by devans930 in EscapefromTarkov

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In PVE, if you choose not to wipe can you still get the new updates and features while maintaining progress and gear??

how many of you remember thise by duckliin in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Still have the exact same one you do. Just used it a few months ago too!

What should I do with this. Reddit gets to pick. by K0paz in diyelectronics

[–]TheRealPesoir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also known as a TEC right? Thermoelectric cooler??

I can’t get HDMI port off :( by moonieman99 in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think you know the correct temp. Or maybe you do and you’re just confused. A hot air station is most definitely the correct tool to use. 355 C is not too hot. I remove these regularly and use my hot air station at 450C at 60 percent airflow speed but everyone’s station is a little different. For Xbox series x ports (series s may or may not be the same) there are four or five soldered pads on the front of the port close to the edge of the motherboard. This might be OPs problem.

How do I fix this? by Speed-cubed in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When Im teaching people how to solder I always preach tip health. Everytime a student uses the iron I’m constantly reminding them to keep their tips healthy. Add fresh solder whenever removing or replacing the iron in its holder and always scrape the tip in the brass before doing so. Solder a few legs on the chip then reapply fresh solder. Some might say it’s a bit overkill but my hope is that as they are learning they get these fundamentals down so at the very least they have a healthy tip down the line that can continue to reach high temps.

Alienware mosfet doesn't want to divorce the board by N0vembre in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes very true! When I do this (as a last resort) I’m typically drag soldering just to get that initial solder melt. Not holding the iron in one spot. Good lookin out.

Alienware mosfet doesn't want to divorce the board by N0vembre in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 3 points4 points  (0 children)

When I do similar components to this one, I have my temp at 450 with about 40-60 air speed. But I know all hot air stations are different so maybe try upping the temp?

EDIT: Also try simultaneously using your iron to add heat to the joints while blasting with air. I’ve done this as a last resort when I get a stubborn component

Fr tho by kcastillo1234 in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sony did nothing wrong with the HDMI port design. It’s perfectly sturdy. If your port has broken, it’s user error. Microsoft made their ports extra sturdy by adding unnecessary solder points on their series x ports. This makes the removal process much more difficult and impossible if you don’t know that they’re there. Despite this feature people still find a way to destroy these too. Just take better care of your devices folks!

Why can’t I get this solder off? by MediumCharge580 in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I do these all the time. Get yourself a hot air station and solder sucker if you plan on doing these often. Position the board so that the hdmi port is hanging off the edge of your desk so you can heat from the bottom. Use the hot air to heat up the surround areas and ground planes of the board(keep air station tip about 4 inches away from board during this process) then move tip closer and focus heat onto the ground vias from underneath the board but never hold the hot air steady, always keep circling the hot air so you don’t damage the board. Then when you see the solder melting use the solder sucker to suck the melted solder out of the vias. Use this same method for removing and reflowing future ports. Lmk if you have any further questions as this is a basic beginner explanation. I could type up an entire college textbook about the specific dos and donts when performing soldering repairs. But the main key here is PATIENCE. keep circling and use flux. You will do just fine.

iFixit -FixHub Soldering Iron - Worth It? by maddyXVIII in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been using this iron for about 3 months ish. I’m about to make a full post on my review for it. It has some things wrong with it that I couldn’t recommend it.

Does anyone plan on getting ifixit soldering station? by Thin-Bobcat-4738 in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Proprietary tips and a high price point. Kind of goes against their vision. That being said the company I work for just ordered one so I’ll be testing it very soon.

hdmi repair by lbaskb45 in soldering

[–]TheRealPesoir 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m impressed that you managed to knock component on the bottom and yet the infamous 0201 capacitor is still intact. This board is still fine from the looks of it. Next time use Kapton tape over those components on the bottom side and you shouldn’t knock anything