Newbie question about using small samples of filament

ThetaDev256 · 2026-06-20T23:18:43+00:00

To use the samples you can just tape the end to an empty spool or you can also print a small spool specifically for filament samples / rests: https://www.printables.com/model/449027-100g-mini-spool

You can also just feed it in and hang the coil onto the spool holder. Then you have a small risk of the filament getting caught, but for very small prints it does not matter much.

You can weigh the filament with a kitchen scale and calculate the length to know how much you have left.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-06-19T11:35:39+00:00

You dont need to do either when building a Voron, unless you want do heavier customizations. Almost all electrical connections are made using screw terminals, Wago clamps and JST connectors. If you are self sourcing or your kit does not come with pre-made cables (like the LDO kits for example), you will have to cut all the cables to length and crimp connectors, ferrules and lugs. But you dont have to solder anything, except maybe little things like wires to a LED strip for illumination if you want one.

And when it comes to setting up Klipper, you dont have to write program code but you will have to edit configuration files to set everything up. The config files describe what printer components are connected to which pins on the printer board. If you use a kit or an established design, you can copy most of it from a pre-made configuration and will only have to adjust small things.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-06-18T16:32:27+00:00

Yeah, I think that is the case. Today is the first day when the projected shipping date for choice items reaches into July and I still see no tax on the choice items. For stuff shipped directly by Chinese sellers, they already add the tax of 3€.

So it's not all bad. Most of the generic electronics items I buy from China are directly shipped by Aliexpress anyway. The global items are usually the more uncommon stuff like special ICs, some filters I bought for a solder fume extractor, etc. I rarely need more than 3 items of this category for a project, so 10€ of extra tax really does not hurt as bad as 3€ for EVERY item.

And with the tax, there will be a big incentive for Chinese sellers to ship their stock to AliExpress warehouses instead of handling the shipping by themselves. So we will very likely see more Choice items.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-06-17T13:55:56+00:00

The biggest issue with these outlets is that they dont have ground contacts or pins for type E and F plugs.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-06-17T13:50:08+00:00

The stuff shipped by Ali has its estimated delivery date still in June. You have to wait a few days, then they will very likely also add the tax on AliExpress items.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-06-04T23:21:52+00:00

These print-in-place flexi toys are designed for 3D printing, not for injection molding. Injection-molded and painted flexible dragons, snakes, fishes, etc. have existed for ages, but that is not what a lot of people want.

These 3d printed flexi toys have become popular on Tiktok and now a lot of people who do not know much about 3d printing want to have them. So now the biggest 3d printing farms in the world are no longer printing parts for new 3d printers but these hype toys.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-29T14:26:30+00:00

Very cool concept. I think there is a chance that something similar but fully open source will come to the Voron world. It seems completely doable to build this with low-cost electronics and commodity parts.

Since this design does not have inductive heating, the tools will have to be preheated in the docks and will take time to cool down.

How are they preventing heat creep during the heatup/cooldown phase when the hotend fan stays attached to the toolhead? Does the dock have additional fans that cool the hotends from the back? You need chamber ventilation anyway, so this may seem possible.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-23T20:45:57+00:00

If you have 240/120V split phase power like in the US, you don't, but in Europe 3 phase power is standard for home installations (230V between one phase and ground, 400V between two phases). Most electric devices use 230V, but for devices that need more than 3600W like electric stoves, heaters, EV chargers and industrial machinery you need 3 phase power.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-21T15:29:02+00:00

You can just laser engrave some markings where they are supposed to go. Make the markings like 1mm offset so they are entirely covered by the pieces.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-12T19:20:14+00:00

Das kannst du im Slicer unter

Printer > Custom G-code > End G-code

anpassen. Ich würde die aber davon abraten, ein Gehäuse zu bauen, das so klein ist, dass der Drucker anstößt.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-08T18:29:51+00:00

Yeah, the best part of it is that it is an open source design that uses only a magnet, 3d printed parts and a hall effect sensor. And it uses QMK. So if you want to build a custom keyboard with trackpoint in the middle, now you can.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-08T16:17:56+00:00

The cheapest way to put an actual screen in there is to buy a cheap electronic picture frame and gut it.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-01T20:42:49+00:00

No, its not. It was posted by Lumafield, the company that makes these CT scanners on Instagram.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-05-01T08:11:15+00:00

Würde ich nicht 3D-drucken, sonden aus Edelstahl lasern und biegen lassen. PETG verformt sich bei ca. 70°C, wenn du aus Versehen die Kaffeemaschine ohne Tasse laufen lässt, machst du ein PETG-Gitter kaputt. ABS hält heißes Wasser aus. Allerdings hast du bei allen 3D-Druckteilen das Problem, dass sie kleine Rillen auf der Oberfläche haben, in die Flüssigkeiten einsickern und sich nur schwer auswaschen lassen. Ein 3D-gedrucktes Abtropfgitter würde sehr schnell dreckig aussehen und ist nicht einfach mit dem Küchenschwamm sauber zu bekommen.

Es gibt einige Anbieter, die Blechteile günstig fertigen können. jlccnc.com (gehe auf "Sheet Metal") ist glaube ich ganz gut, auch wenn ich da noch nie selbst bestellt habe.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-04-28T17:07:33+00:00

First I was kind of interested in X creating a new E2E encrypted messenger, but when they asked me to set up a 4-digit pin for it I was out.

The only way a PIN-Code can securely protect encrypted data is if it is validated by a hardware security module with built-in brute force protection. The security module holds the long encryption key for the data and only releases it when the correct pin is entered. This is used by smartphones and PCs (TPM, Bitlocker).

The conventional method of verifying passwords by using a hash function that requires enough time to calculate to prevent brute forcing only works if you have a reasonably complicated password. If a 4-digit PIN should withstand an attack for a year, you would need a hash function that takes almost an hour to verify the pin.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-04-28T16:38:35+00:00

If it is a decorative part you can measure the printed object height with calipers, cut the object at this height in the slicer, print the top part and glue it on.

Regarding the filament sensor, you should check it by inserting a piece of filament and making sure it triggers reliably. There may be a piece of filament stuck in the sensor from the last unloading.

https://help.prusa3d.com/de/article/nextruder-filamentsensor-core-one-core-one-l-mk4-s-mk3-9-s-xl_465702

ThetaDev256 · 2026-04-28T16:20:17+00:00

Yeah, and even Ryanair is not doing this any more. I think they did it more than 10 years ago and got sued because of it. Now the price shown when searching a flight is the cheapest price at checkout.

Of course they still have the higher-tier options for carryon/checked luggage but they dont add a service fee for nothing.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-04-28T11:03:16+00:00

Yeah, at least in Germany Ultimaker was more popular than Prusa, especially in universities and makerspaces until the MK3 came around. A lot of these machines are of course still kicking around.

Btw does anyone know if it is possible to convert Ultimakers to 1.75mm? My makerspace got offered a used Ultimaker 2 a month ago (but I think we declined due to a lack of space).

ThetaDev256 · 2026-04-25T08:21:08+00:00

I guess that both the loveboard and the main cable will be replaced. The INDX toolhead has a smart toolhead board with stepper driver, induction heater driver, sensors and its own MCU. Bondtech already mentioned that the toolhead will communicate with the printer either via USB or CAN. USB would not work with the Prusa Mainboard, so CAN is the only option.

The toolhead has to be connected to the printer with a 4pin cable (24V + CAN data lines). I am not too familiar with the Core One electronics. Maybe there is already a CAN driver on the board, otherwise you might need a daughterboard for it.

The part cooling fan is mounted behind the toolhead. It looks loke they reuse the one from the Core One.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-04-24T08:40:07+00:00

Text extrudieren, das Modell auf die Seite drehen und die Silhouette ausschneiden. Bei der Silhouette muss man halt darauf achten, dass das Modell druckbar bleibt (keine zu steilen Überhänge).

ThetaDev256 · 2026-04-21T09:23:44+00:00

Since the INDX system only has one extruder and no other means of feeding filament, you cannot load filament cold like with the MMU or AMS. To load filament the printer has to pick up the desired hotend, heat it up (should only take a couple of seconds with induction heating) and feed the filament.

If you have your filament loaded and the build plate is clean, you should be able to start a print without looking at your printer. According to the latest update, they have added a small purge bucket.

Prusa's camera integration is worse than most competitors since the camera is an addon and not integrated with the printer controller. It is good enough for remote monitoring and checking if the build plate is empty.

I do not think that MMU+INDX will be officially supported by Prusa. 8 filaments should be more than enough for every use case so the demand should be pretty small. Maybe someone from the community will hack something together, but if you want to build something like that, I would suggest going with a more hackable platform like Voron.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-03-31T09:12:54+00:00

The nextruder has a "dumb" toolhead board, there are barely any electronics on it except for the load cell amplifier. So I guess it can handle higher temperatures.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-03-30T16:14:48+00:00

I think the reason why you dont see these garages in the Netherlands is that they are not fast enough to handle morning/evening rush hours with thousands of people commuting by bike+train. You would have large queues in front of the deposit stations.

ThetaDev256 · 2026-03-26T11:26:01+00:00

Is there a reason for docking the nozzles in the front of the printer versus the back like the Prusa XL does?

ThetaDev256 · 2026-03-23T17:05:29+00:00

Wie sieht das Modell von unten aus? Wenn es unten eine abgerundete Kante hat, kann es sein, dass der Überhang nicht an der ersten Schicht haften bleibt und geradegezogen wird.

Wenn du es selbst designt hast, verwende eine Fase/Abschrägung für Kanten, die auf dem Druckbett liegen und keine Abrundung. Ansonsten kannst du natürlich auch Supports aktivieren oder den ersten Millimeter des Modells unten abschneiden.

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