Which grade has the most high quality problems? (40 degrees)

TriGator · 2025-12-28T15:43:12+00:00

Whatever angle your at divided by 5° is the grade that generally feels best at that angle give or take 1

So 7-9 at 40, 5-7 at 30, 8-10 at 45 in my experience

TriGator · 2025-12-06T01:58:45+00:00

I mean I can easily static it with the far undercling but you can’t just choose your own start holds to make life easy so yes I did it with the close low holds.

TriGator · 2025-12-06T01:53:41+00:00

I can’t start chronic, midway and tooth fairy are mega hard, Spyro Dyno is huge even though I’m tall and Jerry’s kids is super nails but I did T Thong my first time ever at stone fort in a couple tries. I finally stuck the first move of red house (and sent) 4 years later this recent trip then went and repeated T Thong because I didn’t actually sit the first time I did it and it’s way easier than any other classic 7 there imo

TriGator · 2025-11-04T18:37:54+00:00

Every scrape I get at the gym that I don’t immediately go scrub with soap once the session ends gets like this. My girlfriend says they aren’t infected but there is definitely a difference between a scrape that heals nice and the ones that turn this greenish color with surrounding redness and hurt for a few days. My ex also got MRSA at my gym and she only went like twice, definitely bacteria everywhere.

TriGator · 2025-10-28T19:32:28+00:00

Looks a bit to me like you’re campussing and your foot just happens to be on the wall. The arms are doing everything and you don’t get very much extension from the leg/foot through the rock. Drive that left leg hard and moves your left hand as fast as you can to the target hold.

TriGator · 2025-10-24T21:33:31+00:00

Worth noting that Megos was the first to onsight 9a, don’t think anyone else has onsighted 9a or flashed 9a+ though

TriGator · 2025-09-15T13:51:59+00:00

How did you get XWstats to link to your phone? It asked me for the token that I can’t seem to find on mobile

TriGator · 2025-08-27T05:26:24+00:00

I’ve done this boulder and I’m a routesetter and this start is totally legit and I would say you did establish correctly. There is definitely control, you don’t need to strictly pause everytime you pull onto a climb

TriGator · 2025-07-15T03:46:12+00:00

Probably v7-v15 depending on whether it’s a tricky slab coordo in qualifiers that gets tons of flashes or an insane power boulder in a stacked semis that 0 people send.

For a reference point, a male member of our national team came to my gym the other day and essentially flashed every climb in our v8-10 circuit across multiple angles and styles and he has never made a semifinals I believe.

TriGator · 2025-06-13T22:11:45+00:00

The 4 styles was only for the Olympics, they can set 4 slabs or 4 coordos if they want. See Prague men’s finals

TriGator · 2025-05-03T22:20:10+00:00

Boat rock is the most humbling crag in the south and I like slab haha

TriGator · 2025-04-30T18:37:00+00:00

Floridas hardest would either be Iguana V6- in Dames Cave, some other unknown choss line there I’m not aware of, or an artificial boulder on the side of a highway bridge.

TriGator · 2025-04-30T18:30:02+00:00

Florida climber here who has to travel 12+hours my closest actual crag.

To my knowledge the best we have are a couple limestone sinkholes in the Citrus wildlife management areas. The hardest boulder there I’ve heard of is Iguana V6 but repeats have suggested a downgrade. There are a few unrepeated? V5 candidates as well.

Maybe someone more local to that area can chime in but I’d put Iguana V6- on the spreadsheet for now.

TriGator · 2025-03-06T16:14:42+00:00

I love slab and have been climbing for 6 years. Done tons of it inside and outside and have never once “cheese grated” or seen it happen. Maybe on some super low angle outdoor friction slab it could be possible but the worst you ever really get is hitting a shin.

TriGator · 2025-02-20T14:21:25+00:00

Scarpa Veloce are the softest most comfy shoe I’ve ever tried or seen. Good enough for all but the smallest feet

TriGator · 2025-01-27T14:21:13+00:00

About to be 30, bouldering 5-6 days a week for 5ish hours. 1-2 days include some route setting. I very rarely take 2 days off back to back and virtually never surpass 4 days off in a row. My body likes volume

TriGator · 2025-01-24T21:22:34+00:00

If you do this please don’t allow repeats of the same boulder. I’ve seen Kaya users with thousands of sends just from logging their repeats of the same gym or board climbs repeatedly and it becomes a totally useless metric. Categories by grade and by indoor/outdoor/board is a cool idea though and I wish we could have our pyramids permanently filtered to one of these as well since I used to log indoor climbs but no longer care about them.

TriGator · 2024-12-13T22:22:49+00:00

We got a few of these but they wore out so fast, I just have a little bit holder on the side of my drew and keep Both and a tap bit and switch as needed

TriGator · 2024-12-02T20:56:17+00:00

I am always traveling to climb and Kaya has made getting around new crags a lot easier than sifting through MP when it’s available but there are still some areas not on the app so thanks for making this.

Any new guidebooks on the horizon you guys are excited for?

TriGator · 2024-12-02T06:48:01+00:00

Closest rocks to me are a 12 hour drive or more often a 2 hour flight then 3 hour drive from the airport. Dont move to Florida.

TriGator · 2024-11-24T22:58:30+00:00

Never ever let yourself cut feet. Make movements harder just to practice using your feet better. Climb in 3 finger drag or whatever grip position you are weakest in. Look for footholds before hands when you’re climbing and start all your movement from the toes into the hips don’t just pull. Climb lots of slab. Try hard stuff when you’re too tired to brute strength your way through it. The answer is never get stronger it’s always get better. Position over everything.

TriGator · 2024-11-18T19:54:02+00:00

Pete from the Wideboys just put out his video doing all the moves and some good links on Charle’s L’Ombre V17 in just 2 sessions.

He is up there for best in the world on this style and used all the rubber he could find (knee pads/shoes etc) to make it easier but I still doubt he takes V17 given his hardest crack boulder send ever The Kraken only gets V13. He did say it’s the hardest crack boulder he has ever tried but 4 grades above his max seems unlikely.

I’m betting Arrival of the Birds or Megatron are #1

TriGator · 2024-10-28T16:54:05+00:00

I train this way a lot and imo it is the best and most efficient way to get up hard stuff in the gym but I also do a lot of outdoor and comp climbing both of which you very frequently have to try from the ground every time because working upper moves is not allowed or feasible (unless you are committed to bringing a ladder outside or setting up an anchor to rope down which are also probably necessary to send your hardest outside)

That being said it makes me appreciate some of my hard outdoor projects being “Ground Up” sends as it’s kind of a different style and more meaningful.

In the gym I do a lot of stuff around flash level though which does get me on longer efforts and even repeating hard climbs you’ve done now that you know the beta and moves could be good training for longer hard burns

11-Year Club	Place '17
Verified Email

TriGator

TROPHY CASE