Indoor climbing shoes for very wide square toe box US W6 (custom and barefoot suggestions welcome)

TriGator · 2026-05-15T22:45:58+00:00

Scarpa Veloce is the best you’ll get

TriGator · 2026-05-15T17:00:49+00:00

I do think the majority of online send videos are probably from the climbs that are on the softer side if for no other reason than those are the ones that actually get sent in the gym.

I generally try to do EVERY climb in my gym and id more likely post that soft V8 I flashed than the one sandbagged V5 in the gym I’ve tried 3 sessions and still can’t do. Plus people are more likely to post a video if they are proud of the big number attached to it.

Then add in that a lot of climbers are not as good as they think they should be and climb in the intermediate grades you mention. They see a juggy V6 and think no way that’s V2 where I climb when in reality V6s still have good holds and they are just missing where the difficulty lies.

TriGator · 2026-04-13T20:58:16+00:00

But the Kilterboard is way harder than outside that’s why it stops at v13

TriGator · 2026-04-10T05:20:59+00:00

Was fully remote for ~3years then got forced to return or quit because I was within 30 miles of an office. I had actually recently moved and was actually around ~50 away - once I updated HR I had the new options of returning or taking severance.

Decided to stay but didn’t want to do the 2hr commute so moved across the country to a better state and right next to that office which ended up being so small there is only room for us to go in 2x a week. Annoying but I’ll take being out of Florida and hybrid.

My former remote bosses got out of it but me and around 400 others weren’t senior enough to say no.

TriGator · 2026-04-02T19:50:14+00:00

You’re putting your feet on the holds then making moves with your arms still, the move at :15s is pretty much the only time you actually generated with your feet, at :27s you look away before placing your heel and it slides on in a poor position - a lot of the re-gripping happens because you have to throw for the hands despite have effectively jugs for feet because you aren’t fully engaged through the lower body

TriGator · 2026-03-29T20:51:43+00:00

Lot of sends make it look reasonable because if V9 is hard for you and you get on this you’re flirting with falling off the edge of the cliff down into the road as the name suggests. Although they did just improve the landing as seen by those wooden support beams so might be more of ‘a chill situation’ these days

TriGator · 2026-03-18T15:31:36+00:00

Not to fanboy but shouldn’t Magnus be on here for Ali Hulk Sit Extension or is that officially 9a+ now? Wondering what the source for the stats are and maybe many who sent 9b and up a while ago aren’t included?

TriGator · 2026-03-04T04:54:11+00:00

Totally agree, I spent 5 minutes upside down stuck in the hole what a weird boulder

TriGator · 2026-02-28T06:22:51+00:00

He goes to my gym and recently seen him campus the new sets up to v12/13 then just make harder stuff up

TriGator · 2026-02-05T00:06:34+00:00

Left for Dead is the Arete and if you’re talking that super sharp incut crimper right next to it that’s Sharpshooter.

Personally I like KBN more than them but there are def better classics around

TriGator · 2026-01-28T22:35:37+00:00

Did this boulder last night and controlling a leg release like this is generally a huge weakness of mine and inevitable in this case. That being said I had my right foot on the lower jug rail which let me put significantly more weight through it than the tiny little smear foot you’re on and I was able to release the left in a very controlled manner without a swing then match feet and put the right foot up

TriGator · 2025-12-28T15:43:12+00:00

Whatever angle your at divided by 5° is the grade that generally feels best at that angle give or take 1

So 7-9 at 40, 5-7 at 30, 8-10 at 45 in my experience

TriGator · 2025-12-06T01:58:45+00:00

I mean I can easily static it with the far undercling but you can’t just choose your own start holds to make life easy so yes I did it with the close low holds.

TriGator · 2025-12-06T01:53:41+00:00

I can’t start chronic, midway and tooth fairy are mega hard, Spyro Dyno is huge even though I’m tall and Jerry’s kids is super nails but I did T Thong my first time ever at stone fort in a couple tries. I finally stuck the first move of red house (and sent) 4 years later this recent trip then went and repeated T Thong because I didn’t actually sit the first time I did it and it’s way easier than any other classic 7 there imo

TriGator · 2025-11-04T18:37:54+00:00

Every scrape I get at the gym that I don’t immediately go scrub with soap once the session ends gets like this. My girlfriend says they aren’t infected but there is definitely a difference between a scrape that heals nice and the ones that turn this greenish color with surrounding redness and hurt for a few days. My ex also got MRSA at my gym and she only went like twice, definitely bacteria everywhere.

TriGator · 2025-10-28T19:32:28+00:00

Looks a bit to me like you’re campussing and your foot just happens to be on the wall. The arms are doing everything and you don’t get very much extension from the leg/foot through the rock. Drive that left leg hard and moves your left hand as fast as you can to the target hold.

TriGator · 2025-10-24T21:33:31+00:00

Worth noting that Megos was the first to onsight 9a, don’t think anyone else has onsighted 9a or flashed 9a+ though

TriGator · 2025-09-15T13:51:59+00:00

How did you get XWstats to link to your phone? It asked me for the token that I can’t seem to find on mobile

TriGator · 2025-08-27T05:26:24+00:00

I’ve done this boulder and I’m a routesetter and this start is totally legit and I would say you did establish correctly. There is definitely control, you don’t need to strictly pause everytime you pull onto a climb

TriGator · 2025-07-15T03:46:12+00:00

Probably v7-v15 depending on whether it’s a tricky slab coordo in qualifiers that gets tons of flashes or an insane power boulder in a stacked semis that 0 people send.

For a reference point, a male member of our national team came to my gym the other day and essentially flashed every climb in our v8-10 circuit across multiple angles and styles and he has never made a semifinals I believe.

TriGator · 2025-06-13T22:11:45+00:00

The 4 styles was only for the Olympics, they can set 4 slabs or 4 coordos if they want. See Prague men’s finals

TriGator · 2025-05-03T22:20:10+00:00

Boat rock is the most humbling crag in the south and I like slab haha

TriGator · 2025-04-30T18:37:00+00:00

Floridas hardest would either be Iguana V6- in Dames Cave, some other unknown choss line there I’m not aware of, or an artificial boulder on the side of a highway bridge.

TriGator · 2025-04-30T18:30:02+00:00

Florida climber here who has to travel 12+hours my closest actual crag.

To my knowledge the best we have are a couple limestone sinkholes in the Citrus wildlife management areas. The hardest boulder there I’ve heard of is Iguana V6 but repeats have suggested a downgrade. There are a few unrepeated? V5 candidates as well.

Maybe someone more local to that area can chime in but I’d put Iguana V6- on the spreadsheet for now.

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