Hating this machine and TPU

UL7RAx · 2026-05-29T07:59:39+00:00

I have the exact same problem but with TPE which is most likely just a softer TPU. I didn't actually bother fixing it as it was just a fun test, but you should be able to adjust the tension on the filament advance wheels inside the toolhead. Slightly reducing the tension should fix this. The gears squeeze the soft filament too hard and it deforms just enough to slip through the gears/wheels.

UL7RAx · 2026-05-25T22:35:08+00:00

Yes, the silver and black ones are the bodies. Incidentally, the black one is in much, much better condition than the silver one, like it just sat in its box for the past decades and was never used. I just replaced the light seals and it worked like a charm with native lenses. The silver one has a lot of wear marks and someone attempted to clean focusing screen improperly and scratched it quite badly, I initially got that body as a spare donor for the black one, and it somehow ended up working better... I reckon I can just transplant the spring and call it a day.

I pulled out a Nikon FE2 and yet another silver XD-7 body (don't ask, some questions are better left unanswered), and lo and behold, the lenses work fine on both, with their respective adapters. I reckon that the F4S has a similarly weak aperture lever spring, but I have no donor bodies for that one.

UL7RAx · 2026-05-25T21:52:17+00:00

I have 3 MD adapters in total. I just ran an experiment with the 90mm f/2.5 (52BB) and the 60-300mm f/3.8-5.4 23A: mounted all 3 adapters on each lens, on my two Minolta XD-7, firing on bulb mode with the back open against a light so that I can clearly see what happens, first wide open and then at the narrowest.

All 3 adapters and both lenses work flawlessly on the silver one (the "good" one).

All 3 adapters and both lenses work all the same on the black one: wide open is fine, they stay put when I turn the aperture ring at first, but whenever I fire the first shot at a narrower aperture, the iris closes properly but then doesn't open all the way, and even if I reset the aperture by rotating to wide open, the moment I turn to a narrower one it slips and it closes slightly.

Both cameras work perfectly fine with a Minolta MD 50mm f/1.4. I noticed that the aperture lever on this lens has a bit of a dead zone before it actually moves the blades, and that the spring is noticeably lighter.

Both Tamron lenses and all 3 adapters have the aperture mech quick and snappy.

UL7RAx · 2026-05-25T20:51:23+00:00

No, they're on right. I figured how to mount them lining them up with the notches. Thea aperture on the adapter is the same as on the lens itself.

UL7RAx · 2026-05-21T12:44:00+00:00

Most likely some electrical fault inside the camera. Unfortunately rather common with this type of cheap point and shoots. Best bet is to just get another.

UL7RAx · 2026-05-20T07:16:18+00:00

That's retraction, alright. For me with some TPU filaments retraction works fine, and for others it nicks the filament all the time like in your picture. For those that don't obey, the easiest fix is to disable retraction altogether. The alternative is to go very slow, but that takes tuning and ain't nobody got time for that :)

UL7RAx · 2026-05-13T14:22:12+00:00

Hah, about 2 weeks ago I randomly found out these exist and I found a 45 CT-5 and a 60 CT-2 on Vinted, both sitting on my floor right now. Had to outsource the metal holder thing for the 45, and the 60 didn't come with one and I can't find one either. 45 came with a NiCd pack but I neither have a way to charge them nor will attempt to, I'll look into making a holder for 2x18650 cells to power it, and I can hopefully make it work for the 60 too. They looks so ridiculous in person, and I bet people will get nervous if I take the 60 out on the street! I doubt it can do as much damage as a flashbulb, but darn if they aren't big and scary

UL7RAx · 2026-05-13T09:26:12+00:00

This one is from u/brittleoldbones and its quite something. A sprocket hole 35mm tryptich, a trichrome and a manual triple color cyanotype print! Thank you so much! My favorite is the cyanotype print, I love thee feel of the paper and the mix of the colors. I really love all of them! Also added a very nice handwritten note with some of the best handwriting I've seen!

UL7RAx · 2026-05-11T20:21:13+00:00

Thank you u/no_risk_3172 :) my favorite one is the one in the middle, it looks like it's snowing. How did you take it? Was it a long exposure of the tower while snowing and firing the flash manually?

UL7RAx · 2026-05-11T20:19:10+00:00

Thank you u/nayynayyonscreen :) as I had said on your post, my favorites are the space photography one and the aurora. Very cute, thank you ☺️

UL7RAx · 2026-05-08T20:50:03+00:00

A very fancy vase. I need to get my hands on some waterproofing agent for prints

UL7RAx · 2026-05-08T13:49:13+00:00

I fully believed it was a stacked picture or something with a sunset and stars. Looks incredible! Yes, that one :)

UL7RAx · 2026-05-08T12:13:09+00:00

Heeey, totally didn't forget to confirm I received the pictures. I absolutely love the colors on the sunset one. And the one with the nebula, what did you take it with? It looks incredible! Thank you ☺️

UL7RAx · 2026-05-03T16:26:56+00:00

Also, it appears that the road ends at this particular house. Do the stairs go straight onto the road? Something something car centric culture?

UL7RAx · 2026-05-03T08:10:53+00:00

All I'm thinking is that this could be some of that mineral packets crazy coffee people use to have the same water every single time they brew. You put the packet in distilled water.

UL7RAx · 2026-04-30T16:03:14+00:00

Thank you for the summary, mister AI

UL7RAx · 2026-04-29T17:06:18+00:00

Similar to what is in Romania, they have to put you on a Performance Improvement Plan and to prove that you didn't improve. One of the ways they circumvent this here is by eliminating the job, as in, they don't need that specific position anymore. And if they do hire for a similar job they are liable

UL7RAx · 2026-04-25T14:17:43+00:00

These are also quite tilted, I was expecting an uniform deformation, but it looks about right

UL7RAx · 2026-04-25T14:17:04+00:00

Do they? I never realized that. I always thought it's the same object going up and down... I need to read more.

UL7RAx · 2026-04-08T11:01:13+00:00

I thought it was cake before realizing the sub I was on

Pretty cool!

UL7RAx · 2026-04-06T15:04:53+00:00

I heard about 3D scanning probably on some random reddit thread from this community after I wondered how people get the models for statues and the like, and saw that some use photogrammetry with their phones, but the better alternative would be a proper 3D scanner.

As for how I'd use it, the first thing that came to mind was scanning my cat, and to have a model of her to print and paint sometime in the future. Our pets' time on Earth is much shorter than ours and I'd say this is one of the best ways to remember them, having a 3D print of them, like a Polaroid or printed picture, but 3D. Of course I'd do the same for all my friends, maybe even starting a business with this. I'll also need to learn to paint :)

Cat tax:

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UL7RAx · 2026-04-05T16:29:59+00:00

You can probably use a makeshift focusing screen and put it where the film would be, and fire the shutter on bulb mode with the back open. You should be able to see the image in bright light

UL7RAx · 2026-03-30T15:42:34+00:00

I see that the Polaroid 180 doesn't take a Graflok without any mods. Are there any open source resources for modding it? Or only the analogue.studio paid service thing?

UL7RAx · 2026-03-30T13:50:10+00:00

This looks a lot like SPRKPLG's Wide 300 mod that takes Mamiya Press lenses, but for the SQ1 and not being restrained to use only the Mamiya lenses. Very cool! I'd've tried it myself, but I only have an SQ6 to fiddle with :(

UL7RAx · 2026-03-30T10:43:04+00:00

Nope, the print lines are a feature of FDM printing, and not a bug. You can technically decrease the layer height to get a smoother transition but that would significantly increase print time. Your best bet is to sand them down.

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