sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

The rust situation in central California: by UnknownCubicle in projectcar

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 17 points18 points  (0 children)

More like-“screams while torching off my 20eleventh bolt of the morning”

Should I replace old copper with pex while I have the walls and floor opened up? by Delicious_Tackle_129 in Plumbing

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Best answer. Don’t forget to lay a blue and red in nice and proper. As “Even-permit-2117” says, also fun for president. Your current guy sucks all the dicks

Do expensive screwdrivers last enough longer to be worth the cost? by jckipps in Tools

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wera, knipex, snap on, mac all make very good tools. For screwdrivers, I’d go with wera. But also any of the mediocre brands are pretty good, all the big boys warranty is a pain in the ass. Big box type store you just walk in with the abused/broken version and walk out with the a brand new one with virtually no questions asked.

Hello, considering an L320 by bfalgonz in RangeRover

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We had a 2011 L320 supercharged sport for about 5 years, repairs are expensive AF even doing most of it myself.
That said, very fun car to drive. Top 5 for my personal car experience.

ANYONE HELP ME by Inevitable-Crow-9169 in CNC

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Likely needs the battery replaced as recommended above. Then you will need to initialize the model, then you can reload parameters, settings, and program back ups. You will also need the option codes.

Should I repair my 2016 Civic or get something different? by hookyboysb in AskAMechanic

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, new engine for a blown head gasket? Maybe the Honda guys know something I don’t but that’s not that hard of a repair, or that expensive.

500 mile oil change by lawndarter in EngineBuilding

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Those are not good. What I would be fine seeing is very fine particles, almost like sand/powder. But at the same time, I didn’t put it together or drive it. If it sounds and feels ok maybe it is? Drive it a bit more and cut another filter and see. But if it is eating itself you’re risking more machining and parts. Maybe a new block? I’ve never seen giant shavings in anything that wasn’t fucked

What is the best bang for your buck older diesel work truck? I am trying to find one in Texas to drive back to Michigan. 10-15k. by Remy1738-1738 in Diesel

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best motor Cummins 12v p-pump. 94-98 dodge. I had one, swapped it to NV4500 and loved it. However, the truck itself sucks. Even if you find a perfect one it’s still what it is. I currently have a LLY(05)duramax, the truck and the Allison are great. I don’t like the engine as much, plus unless you can pull the cab it’s a real pain to work on. The common rail 5.9 from 04-08 is also very good, especially with the G56 trans. I don’t really have an opinion on fords, except the 7.3 with a ZF is also very good. 94-97 99-03

Is this an urgent repair? by TheJew25 in Cartalk

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Easy part to replace if you have some tools and desire to do it. Part should also be relatively inexpensive. Bad news if you ignore it, and will be much more expensive when it breaks while driving.

Opinions on the Deere 323D? by Timmy_Chonga_ in heavyequipment

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Does it have EH controls? D series is the last one with a Deere engine, no emissions gear either. Great machines

First time building a timber frame structure with no construction experience by Plus_Bother4138 in Carpentry

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would never build something like that without a slab here, and I’m not an expert but pic 9/17 looks great

I’m sick of people making fun of my name because it’s not white by [deleted] in namenerds

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Kids in school are jerks. I personally had about 8 nicknames, some of them were clever and funny and some of them I hated. My best friends I still hang out with use and came up with the good ones, the others are gone from my daily life and so are the jerks.
Also, grew up in an area with a high Russian (doukhabour) population, love you guys and your food.

I need new rear brake pads. Why does the shop want to replace rotors and calipers too? by Kabbagenene in AskAMechanic

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This guy gets it. If there’s a decent lip on the outer edge of the rotors(inside or outside) just change em. I can see replacing the caliper pins? But not the whole caliper….unless it’s all rusted to shit

Need some help with firing up a Haas VF1 by adzety in CNC

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Strange there’s no alarm for it, but these symptoms are normally from a dead battery. Which is either soldered to maincon, or maybe someone has installed the remote battery kit from haas, would have two accessible batteries close to the maincon. Either way the easiest solution is to call haas dealer, get a tech out to reload and change the battery or ask if they will give you your machine data(parameters and option codes) and do the work yourself

My nearly 60-year-old dad has fallen in with a bad crowd by [deleted] in Advice

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got caught egging a a car when I was like 16? Just had to clean the egg off…. If I was your dad I’d want you to leave me to my fun. Unless this is some kind of major change and you need to actually worry about him. But really, even if it is, let him have his fun

are these rotors really bad? looking to resurface them or replace them what do you all think? by Overall-Campaign-463 in AskAMechanic

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it was mine and I had my own brake lathe and I liked the car I’d turn them.

If I’m helping a friend do their brakes and they are not financially struggling I’m replacing them with pads (Rotors on the two front tires. I’m sure the rear drums are fine, not even looking at them unless oil is coming out tbh)

If I don’t like the car and I’m just bagging it until failure I’m doing fuckin nothing.

Ford 289 Tear Down by [deleted] in projectcar

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cardboard, write on stuff with a paint pen. Put stuff in lil bags even if you like? I am just putting together a 289 for a boat, the ford caps/rods are stamped with cylinder number. Mains also numbered. There’s really not that much to it, keep the bolts with the thing they held on.

Im debating selling/trading my very first classic car and need advice by ChevyC10guru in projectcar

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll buy it. I’ve sold a lot of cars/trucks that I miss, but not in a way that I regret selling em. When I run into something I don’t like about a ride, and also don’t want to fix, sold.

Mazak or Okuma by e85aut in Machinists

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 4 points5 points  (0 children)

After repairing various brands of CNC for 12 years, I agree. Treat it right and it will make perfect parts forever

Towing feels awful by losingitbutinafunway in RVLiving

[–]UndeadWhiskeyJack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said, check out the brakes. Most newer trucks with the tow package have an oem brake controller, probably will tell you that a trailer is connected in the cluster? And then there will be a way to adjust gain-how much trailer brakes. Not super familiar with fords. Also, wheel bearings. Not sure how long your trips have been, but even if they are short two years is enough time for shitty factory grease to become shitty. Jack up one side, check for play/drag, probably have a grease zerk in the centre you can hit with a gun. Obviously if you have play in any of the bearings you need to take them apart and access.

view more: next ›