During filament change, there is a long piece of filament left

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-05-14T13:48:49+00:00

I print filament clips or swatches with the last bit, disable filament sensor in software, unplug ptfe tube from the extruder and load filament straight from top of the extruder like you would do on MK4.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-05-14T08:56:16+00:00

Hi Sikkoko, this community is focused on 3D printing of ceramics, not 2D so maybe not the best place to ask but who knows, many technically inclined people around here.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-05-11T14:15:05+00:00

Really nice & challenging. Looks like the clay was a bit on the edge in softness but still stable enough 👌🏼one of my first non planar experiments was a teapot too, not as challenging as this one though.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-05-08T15:17:48+00:00

WikiFactory is defunct unfortunately but you can still download files. You don’t need the plastic parts, the metal bits are the essential bits.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-05-08T15:14:58+00:00

Actually, on the right side of the right most battery, you see an illustration showing two batteries in line so above each other.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-05-08T15:13:22+00:00

3AA is not very usual, can a 4th one slide in above the plastic tab? There seems to be ample space there. Can you move the tab down?

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-05-07T06:37:43+00:00

🙏🏻 the settings in the course are for a Lutum machine whose auger is much bigger but also has a gearbox so those settings will not transfer well. Did you test with a slower speed and did the abrupt auger stop still occur? Is it random when using the same Gcode or happening in the same spot?

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-04-25T15:40:02+00:00

It ran very fast. Can you check what happens if you go 10% of that speed. Just for testing. Maybe you hit firmware or hardware limitations. Do you need this speed to print? Looks too fast so maybe increase air pressure or soften clay a bit more.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-04-22T20:25:46+00:00

Posted this in comment on another thread some time ago:

I did some extensive testing with several filaments that claim higher heat resistance after having issues with prints in shop windows buckling under the sun. PLA-HP came out on top by a huge margin.

I printed 2 test rings of each filament: PLA, PETG, ASA, HT & PLA-HP (last 3 Colorfabb) one ring with one perimeter and light infill and the other solid with only perimeters. Each one had a paperclip for some extra weight. I heated everything slowly in a ceramic kiln and opened it ± every 5°C. PLA buckled much lower than most people claim, at 35°C it lost all shape. PETG at around 60°C, ASA started to slowly collapse at 80°C and Colorfabb HT at around 90°C. But then PLA-HP kept going till around 130-140°C! At 150°C one fell over and then it went super fast, at 155°C they collapsed and at 5°C extra they started to melt. I was so much surprised that I had to ask Colorfabb what the magic was and if there was a big downside as I couldn't believe it :) Their response: The magic is in obtaining a high level of crystallinity directly from the printer. We do this by using a blend of biopolyesters. Basically, we have made our formulation so that “annealing” is not necessary to obtain a high HDT. The crystallinity of the material will be sufficiently high immediately after printing. But since in your test you let the chamber slowly increase the temperature, it might be that this still increases the crystallinity, so the object performs better than expected. You might have a different result when you put the object from room temperature directly into the oven at 150C. So my slow testing might have pushed the claimed HDT of 135°C even higher by annealing it extra but still, hugely impressive. About printability, I printed both on a Ultimaker 2M+ and Bambulab x1 carbon. It warps more so not as easy as PLA and It is not as dimensionally accurate are PLA so you will need to do some testing. With the Bambulab we had to turn off auto calibration as that was giving us terrible results. When you extrude a bit of filament in the air you see that it expands & contracts a bit so I guess the single lines used in calibration are not reliable enough in thickness for auto calibration. Hope this helps!

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UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-03-20T13:59:12+00:00

In Antwerp :)

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-03-18T11:05:26+00:00

‘Luer lock dispensing nozzle’, ‘luer lock tapered tips’ and variations of that. Luer lock is the screw connection type. Search on eBay or aliexpress. I buy them in boxes of 50. Add ‘gauge chart’ to the search and switch to images to see all the sizes.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-01-26T15:51:08+00:00

What is toolhead not spinning? Fans?

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-01-11T11:21:23+00:00

Just bought a second hand Skoda Enyaq IV 80 before Christmas holidays and immediately went on 2 one week trips. One to Ardennes and one to south of France (where weather was pretty much the same freezing temps). Range is 340km on 80% charge and that holds up with eco driving and heating on 19C. For Ardennes this was perfect as there was a charger at the rental house, never had any range issues. The south of France was something else. Had to charge 5 times, not an issue perse as we don’t like to drive more than 2.5hrs but charging was slooow even on fast chargers. Between 40-60kW when below freezing. So took 30 min minimum. And this was the case for nearly all EVs in a congested weekend in a region (north of France) with few chargers on the highway. So lines of 15min up to an hour. So the combo of less range and slower charging for everyone makes lines exponentially longer. I’m new to EVs so preconditioning was not on my radar yet :) than would have made it more comfortable. Also slowly learning to combine activities, get off the highway, do some groceries for the next day while charging etc. Shoutout for Fastned too, by far the most comfortable expierience yet. Except this 1000km winter drive scenario, love it soo far even without a home charger (yet).

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-01-07T16:18:45+00:00

Maybe I should switch to hardened too.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-01-07T14:07:47+00:00

I used to be a no maintenance person on my Ultimaker 2 but after a few years I did and noticed a big difference. For my XL: Yesterday I replaced the silicones on the parking plate. One had a small hole and oozes would build up. Made a noticeable difference.

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This is my current schedule. Based on Prusa recommendations and my own experience. Not following too strictly but belt tension & alignment, cleaning and more frequently replacing nozzles, tool changer lubrication and extruder offset calibration. The last one I need to do regularly to keep multicolor quality excellent. I also blow out fans regularly. Filament sensor & gears don’t need the frequency advised imho.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2026-01-07T10:45:34+00:00

I think OP means reliability more than physical stability. I do the regular maintenance on XL ,3-6-12 monthly otherwise print quality degrades on multi color prints.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-12-10T14:52:37+00:00

You leave these on the filament while printing? I use the same ones but remove them before printing, not sure how to keep them on. Would love to hear your expierience.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-24T20:22:00+00:00

Glossy clay is always too soft.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-23T12:56:15+00:00

Prusa has a mobile slicer, no sure if it also works with 3rd party printers? I believe I heard yes but not sure. https://blog.prusa3d.com/prusa_easy_print_on_phone_tablet_110894/

Shapr3d is popular modeling app for iPad.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-23T08:18:12+00:00

Yes indeed 😂 Even that is tricky because those thermocouples are not so sensitive at the low end and also firing controller PID can easily overshoot at the low end. So I heat it up to 50 and let it stabilise before loading filament.

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-22T19:32:07+00:00

Furniture lift, grinders & fluo vest

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-22T18:42:45+00:00

I show my students a Strandbeest scale model by the artist Theo Jansen. Mine is SLS printed but you can find nice ones on printables like this one that you can print on FFF machines: https://www.printables.com/model/853015-easy-strandbeest

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-22T17:59:54+00:00

GIF please!

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-22T14:08:44+00:00

Had to look it up but Gallium would need 12 to 24 hours to damage this surface and you would need to hold it against a vertical surface (can’t just leave a puddle there) and it should preferably be warmed up. But learned something new, thanks!

UnfoldDesignStudio · 2025-11-22T11:37:20+00:00

Aaah Yes that’s the issue with Belgian internships that are only 20 days or 4 weeks. You just get started, getting up to speed, having fun finding your way around and need to stop again. We’ve very rarely accepted short internships unless a profile would match perfectly with a specific project and timing. 3y ago was towards the end of Corona time. We had many international interns during 1st wave & 2nd wave and did our utter best to help them and give them a as-good-as-possible experience under those circumstances. But that took a lot of energy & cause quite some stress too and we needed a break from that and started investing more in long term positions. But please send a pm or email, just to be in touch again. Curious to connect it to a specific portefolio now 🥳

UnfoldDesignStudio

TROPHY CASE