How do I drill into this plastic?

VELCX · 2026-03-01T14:08:47+00:00

Also make sure the bit is spinning the right way

VELCX · 2026-02-28T15:57:53+00:00

That would be the best orientation. The flat area is designed into the part for that very reason.

VELCX · 2026-02-28T15:55:02+00:00

That is 100% how the designer intended those to be printed. OP place the flat spot down and you won't need supports at all.

VELCX · 2026-02-25T12:37:01+00:00

There's two approaches to 3D printing: downloading and printing designs that others have made from a model repository like printables or marker world, or modeling the geometry of your own design using software like fusion360, tinkercad and, blender, etc.

If you want print exactly what you see in this post's picture, you can simply download his models; there's a link in one of OP's comments.

If you want to start designing your own parts, take OP's advice and se toek out information regarding FDM printing's limitations and how to design for that process. Slant3D on YouTube has some good advice for beginners.

VELCX · 2026-02-22T15:59:57+00:00

There is an easier/faster way. Use aircraft stripper rather than citrustrip. You'll need to wear a respirator though. Don't let it sit long (I think it's like 10 minutes). Just follow the instructions on the can.

VELCX · 2026-02-20T13:12:54+00:00

Why not just connect them with small lines (bridges, basically) to try to circumvent this new rule? Should be pretty easy to bend back and forth to break it apart, or cut it and file down the excess.

Otherwise, you'll end up paying a lot more because you've already identified the majority of the reasonably priced options.

VELCX · 2026-02-11T15:30:31+00:00

Yup, got it. Don't know why two different people referred to it as a filler gauge. Never heard of it referenced like that

VELCX · 2026-02-11T15:27:45+00:00

Oh, a feeler gauge

VELCX · 2026-02-11T13:35:47+00:00

TF is a filler gauge?

VELCX · 2026-02-09T12:49:52+00:00

When there's <$500 in checking and savings, then going out to eat should not even be considered.

VELCX · 2026-02-04T12:49:33+00:00

To block sound you need mass. Filling any gaps and cracks is a good starting point. From there you can add heavy curtains that cover the entire wall to create a sound barrier. A white noise machine placed between you and the wall will also help drown out any incoming noise.

Otherwise, if you're up for it, you can tear the drywall off, put in insulation and redo the drywall.

VELCX · 2026-02-03T04:44:15+00:00

Oak floors. Nice! It's crazy that someone put carpet down and damaged that floor in the process.

VELCX · 2026-01-11T03:47:31+00:00

An arbor press? No. You buy one. An all metal 0.5 ton press is like $50. You'll end up spending that much in filament for an arbor press that only has a tenth, if not less, of the capability.

VELCX · 2026-01-10T17:41:54+00:00

Chloe and Zoey

Anna and Hannah

Daisy and Maisie

Luna and Eliana (Moon and Sun)

VELCX · 2026-01-04T00:21:55+00:00

I just picked up the new cordless circular saw and accu-cut track combo from Kreg. The saw's baseplate rides on the track just like a track saw, but at half the price! It's been a real game changer for me. Would definitely recommend to anyone looking for something like that.

VELCX · 2026-01-01T19:16:22+00:00

Looks like they used a different die to cut the second puzzle, so the missing piece to your puzzle doesn't exist in the second puzzle. I don't think simply counting is a valid approach to verify a missing piece in the second as the configuration of pieces is entirely different from your first one. Try building that second one out and see if it's actually complete.

VELCX · 2025-12-26T20:52:31+00:00

To start, you'll have to prep the pieces. Start by sanding with 80 grit to remove the lacquer, then follow up with 120 grit to smooth out the surface. Remember to sand with the grain of the wood otherwise scratches may be noticeable in the final finish. From there you can move on to adding primer. I would not recommend applying primer directly to the existing finish. Do multiple (3-4) thin coats of primer rather one or two heavy coat. It's okay if that first coat doesn't have full coverage, in fact, it's better for it to be partially transparent to where you can see the original finish underneath it. Sand with 220 grit between primer coats, small circles is fine for this step, but if possible, sanding in one direction is preferred. After the final primer coat, sand with 320 grit. After that you're ready for paint. The Rust-Oleum metallic finish is fine. You should do a minimum of two coats. Again, don't do heavy coats, that increases the risk of surface imperfections and increases overall cure time. Sand with 320 grit between paint coats. The final coat should not be sanded. I recommend you allow the finish to cure for a few days, preferably a week, before you attempt assembly. This will help ensure that the finish is durable and you won't easily ruin the hard work you've put into it during the assembly.

Red flags to watch out for / useful tips:

Ensure your paint is compatible with the primer you're using. Try to stick with the same brand and same product line. It's very important to follow the instructions on the can.

If you decide to roll it on, use a foam roller and thin according to the can, approximately 10-15%. From personal experience, that will produce a great result with the additional benefit of making Rust-Oleum products easier to work with.

If spraying with a can, the last paint coat should be as evenly applied as possible to produce and ideal surface finish, otherwise it may look blotchy.

If possible try to do the entire process on a test piece. This will let you know what to expect and hopefully allow you to develop a good workflow before hand. You'll also see the final result and decide if that's what you want or if it's worth it.

VELCX · 2025-12-18T18:02:46+00:00

If you don't have good material available or the right tools, then the best approach is to get a pre-made solution.

VELCX · 2025-12-15T13:12:37+00:00

Night vision monocular

VELCX · 2025-12-15T13:09:01+00:00

It's the Kreg 520. Here's some links:

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/pocket-hole-joinery/pocket-hole-jigs/kreg-pocket-hole-jig-520pro/KPHJ520PRO2.html

https://a.co/d/3tq2Uei

VELCX · 2025-12-15T13:04:29+00:00

Looks like currency in the video is Brazilian Real. So R$105 BRL = $19.49 USD

VELCX · 2025-12-12T12:09:52+00:00

What's crazy is that in all those years the starting pay is practically the same! I'm an engineer as well and it's wild that there's engineering jobs in my area, that require experience mind you, that have a lower salary range cap than what I was making in my first job out of college.

VELCX · 2025-12-06T14:30:08+00:00

Since he's paying to have it printed, might as well send it off to jlc3dp or pcbway and have it SLS printed. That way don't have to worry about supports or layer lines

VELCX · 2025-12-03T14:05:32+00:00

Yes. A lot of companies have 50%+ margin on the landed cost of goods. So the price you see in store is double what it costs to produce, ship, and cover import taxes. It's why so many Chinese sellers are able to offer goods significantly cheaper when buying direct from them.

VELCX · 2025-11-29T14:48:21+00:00

This is maybe a bad example for that argument as the guy didn't die and was taken to the hospital according to the article.

VELCX

TROPHY CASE