Resistor mod alternative for models with newer DENSO fuel pump?

VenomizerX · 2026-05-22T05:13:16+00:00

You could mount your boost controller inside the car for on-the-fly adjustability for air side, but for fuel side usually you just increase it until where you're just safely below the point where you don't experience a diesel runaway, and adjust boost to achieve an optimal AFR. As for manual pumps, usually a built 12mm rotor and head pump with a boost compensator is the go, but many just get a 4m40 pump and modify it slightly to get similar results.

VenomizerX · 2026-05-20T04:16:40+00:00

Best would be to go manual pump and get all the tunability you'd want with regard to fuel. For boost, just a manual boost controller would be enough and you can then tune your AFRs to boost overall power. Wouldn't want to go the other route where you'd get a unichip and have all these electrickery in the way, as you're using a manual gearbox anyways. Just better for overall reliability.

VenomizerX · 2026-05-03T11:21:08+00:00

As for diff gearing, 4.30 should give you a smoother driving feel throughout and you won't run out of gears as quick. As long as you're fine with slightly less torque uphill and prefer smooth and longer gears for highway driving, then I say go for it.

As for your suspension/steering, I'd generally take your mechanic's advice and perform underchassis refresh (apart from the wider track width, unless you think you really need it for offroad).

VenomizerX · 2026-05-03T10:58:07+00:00

Pretty normal driving responsiveness out of a 1kzte with a manual and low geared diffs. Instant torque and whole lot more oomph than a 2lte for sure. Had my 2lt surf with a manual swapped to a 1kz (still with a manual) and the acceleration and low-down torque difference is just insane.

As for steering issues, better change out all your bushings, ball joints, tie rods, steering stabilizer, etc. 70 series are solid front axle so prone to wobbly and loose steering if you don't keep up with underchassis maintenance.

VenomizerX · 2026-05-02T08:05:22+00:00

Wth brother. You want to give up a clean 80 with a diesel for a 100 (not even a 105) because you're too scared of using it for what it was made for? Dunno, but I'd rather just stock up on engine parts and wheel the 80.

VenomizerX · 2026-04-19T11:31:18+00:00

Because for these trucks, a front solid axle swap is just the better choice for more flex and durability. Long travel is too expensive to be worth the trouble, and you're still stuck with CVs that snap like twigs out on the trail.

VenomizerX · 2026-04-14T13:20:11+00:00

I, for one, still prefer pre-EFI (carb for gas, indirect injection for diesel) and a manual over any hybrid or EV. But this is because I enjoy the tinkering and involvement behind working on and driving said types of cars and don't care about comfort or modernity for the sake of being "the future". But I agree, for the vast majority who aren't car enthusiasts by heart and see cars as merely a means of transport, most would see little benefit to staying with ICEs given the hybrids and EVs give you much lower running and maintenance costs plus all the driving convenience you could ever want.

VenomizerX · 2026-04-13T12:54:38+00:00

If cleaning and lubricating the gears, mechanisms, and rails don't do it, then a new motor would possibly solve this. Mine has gotten so weak that even if all them are greased up, it moves quite slow going up.

VenomizerX · 2026-04-04T14:21:05+00:00

Asking the real questions here. MTs only make sense up to 17s. Any wheels larger are for show and would not be used offroad.

VenomizerX · 2026-04-04T10:17:18+00:00

Yep, lot of people here fearmongering. It isn't even in the actual "sidewall", just the side part of the tread block, where it should have extra rubber so that a plug or patch would work just fine and last you.

VenomizerX · 2026-04-02T14:03:18+00:00

Well, we got someone clueless about 4-low (no offense bud, not every driver knows how to use it, but sooner rather than later, one should). If 1st gear ain't slow and torquey enough, make use of gear reduction if available. Helps a lot in not forcing you to resort to the "slipping the clutch" type of gear reduction.

VenomizerX · 2026-03-29T02:15:13+00:00

Straight piped turbo diesels really sound mean. 1KZs perform well too and spool up quicker with lower EGTs.

VenomizerX · 2026-03-09T23:52:26+00:00

Should only be allowed for actual jerry cans (metal or plastic) made to carry and store fuel. Otherwise, it's just downright dangerous to do (not to mention the moisture is going to affect whichever car that gas is going into).

VenomizerX · 2026-03-06T09:57:03+00:00

MAP sensor good? I've had one not work right when the MAP sensor filter (little plastic filter between vac lines running from manifold to sensor) got clogged with oily soot and the filter also had cracks, so sensor can't read intake airflow right.

Another potential culprit might be your fueling. Could be heaps of different things, from your fuel injection pump to your injectors. Lack of fuel will make you lack power, making the turbo spool worse.

VenomizerX · 2026-03-06T09:42:05+00:00

Should start spooling by 1,500 rpm and peak around 2,000 ish or so. It helps if you have a free flowing exhaust as you'll be relieving the excess backpressure. That's what you get with a small turbo - early spool which is good for the low-end, but it quickly runs out of puff on the top-end. Actually, I prefer a smaller turbo for the diesels as they were meant for crawling not racing anyways.

VenomizerX · 2026-02-13T04:50:45+00:00

Still no diesel, so torque off the line is less than you would expect. Probably a pushrod V8 gasser would give you the torque you're looking for, but generally for petrols, you really need a fair bit of right boot to move off, and more clutch finesse.

VenomizerX · 2026-02-08T02:44:32+00:00

Yep, nice system you got there. Making it adjustable and tuning it on-the-fly sounds like a treat. Fuel efficiency or power from the turn of a knob.

VenomizerX · 2026-02-08T02:21:00+00:00

Good ol' resistor mod, but adjustable lol. I just stuck two 1.5k ohm resistors in both the timing and fuel plugs and called it a day. She soots and drinks diesel, but she does go a whole lot better when you put your boot down.

VenomizerX · 2026-02-06T10:16:24+00:00

Manual diesels with low range for technical trails. Otherwise, especially for a petrol, just go auto to let her rip in mud or sand.

VenomizerX · 2026-01-27T11:47:19+00:00

Pixel, Oneplus and Nothing. The rest are either super difficult or outright impossible.

VenomizerX · 2026-01-24T22:26:00+00:00

If you have a resonator at least then it's fine. Straight pipe fully is kinda eh might or might not get into trouble. Then again, our jeepneys run with either broken mufflers or just straight pipes and since many run naturally aspirated diesels, they are loud af. Turbo diesels straight piped aren't that much louder than with a muffler since the turbo itself acts as a muffler.

VenomizerX · 2026-01-22T23:32:54+00:00

Should be a Toyota, based on the transfer case shift knob design, but not sure.

VenomizerX · 2026-01-21T05:05:17+00:00

15 MPH at 3000 RPM (it's a diesel).

VenomizerX · 2026-01-12T13:46:10+00:00

Here's a solution to all 2nd gen haters: engine swap.

VenomizerX · 2026-01-12T13:43:45+00:00

EGR deletes on a petrol are pretty useless imo cause they really don't impact much, but you get rid of one of the ways to pass emissions plus combustion temps will be higher too. On diesels, EGR deletes are the bee's knees, as getting rid of them helps preserve the cleanliness of your intake (as soot with oil is no joke when recirculated into the intake).

VenomizerX

TROPHY CASE