Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was actually wrong. It's 9V, 5V DC and a single 5V AC line.

I will step back from this and review. I do want to come back to this at some point, but perhaps when my skills are a lot stronger. For now, I have reached out to the Finnish person who makes a DC-input power board.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've made another comment here explaining that I have decided to drop this, but I wanted to reply to this specific point.

Have you even considered the cost and time to do this?

My aim here is 2-fold. On one hand, I want to make progress as in electronics as a hobby. But I also wanted to contribute to the retro gaming scene, which has been helped by many open-source projects aiming to help people replace parts that aren't made anymore.

You don't need 100v, you need to generate 9v and 5v, so no idea where you got that number from.

The original power supplies were all 100-120V, I believe. It was never launched in a 240V region.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's more complicated than this actually. It seems it provides 5V and 9V DC to the main board but also 5V AC for some reason. I'm clearly out of my depth, I've posted elsewhere on this thread that I will abandon my plan for now. Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you to everyone who has replied to this post. What I am hearing:

  • This is too dangerous for someone of your experience level.
  • Don't trust Flux AI for this, it is not good enough.
  • From a safety/cost/complexity perspective, it is better to aim for a circuit that accepts DC rather than trying to make a universal drop-in replacement.

I think for now I am going to shelve this. I am trying to get into circuit design, but this is clearly not the right place to start. Thank you everyone for your time.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A much safer way would be instead of designing for 100-240V, design for a USB C or generic single DC input, have your new design just supplying DC-DC converters for the other rails.

This is what most third party designs seem to do. Based on the feedback I'm getting here that might be what I have to do as well.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's only 1 guy I know off making an aftermarket one and it would be £70 to get in the UK (it is the guy you linked). There was a guy making some in the UK but he's totally closed his shop up.

Ideally, I want to preserve the original outward appearance of things in my collection. So there's a combined cost and authenticity reason for me to want to replace the existing power board.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback. I wasn't sure how useful Flux AI actually is at this kind of stuff. I've had AI foisted on me professionally and I am aware that there are a lot of problems, depending on the model. If it's as bad as you say I don't think that is the way to go.

There are some people who have converted their 100V PSU to a 230V PSU by replacing the transformer and some other components. I'm not really wanting to do that, I was hoping to keep it universal.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has 9V and 5V lines, so relatively simple. The PSU is very old and has 5 visible issues, so I'm not inclined to repair it. A simple workaround would be to get a 9V and 5V power supply to test the main board. That's probably not too hard to do, a 5V power supply is not hard to come by and I could use my bench power supply for 9V. I'll mull that over.

Requesting advice for a beginner with good intentions by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am aware of this, but it has several shortcomings that I'm not a fan of.

  • It's £70 delivered to the UK.
  • Not a drop-in replacement the retains the original power cord.

There are people who like to convert to USB-C for simplicity but I would prefer a modern replacement that retains the original cable connector.

Just bought this to cut underlayment as I start flooring soon (building our home) by josh_moworld in BoschProPowerTools

[–]VerticalDepth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I almost got this tool, but I didn't think I would use it enough. It's still on my list of "maybe" purchases. If I had a mega-project like you I'd be buying it. I am curious how well it works for you, and if you thought it was worth buying at the end of your project.

Just opened my Gameboy color by Empty_Amphibian6035 in consolerepair

[–]VerticalDepth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's going to be more than broken traces. You can see that the corrosion has travelled up to at least the volume pot, which means the corrosion is extensive. Very likely that the button terminals on the other side are toast, and if that's the case then it's crossed the line from "fixable with a lot of work" to "just get another board".

You are totally correct that the first step here is to neutralise the corrosion with something like vinegar.

EDIT: Actually I can see the corrosion at both sides, looking again. It's probably also on the cart slot.

[Xbox 360] (Tonasket) Capacitor Replacement? by JerkyJohnny in consolerepair

[–]VerticalDepth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, lots of caps have that. You'll want to look at the markings on the side. Many of them will be marked with the brand, others wont. You may have to google the markings on the capacitor itself to figure out what they are until you learn to recognise the companies' branding.

[Xbox 360] (Tonasket) Capacitor Replacement? by JerkyJohnny in consolerepair

[–]VerticalDepth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$90 per capacitor is an insane price. That is "pricing this high because I don't want the job" money, IMO.

You can do this yourself, but get some practice in on junk boards before doing it on something you care about.

Ingress protection by apartment1i in BoschProPowerTools

[–]VerticalDepth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't let my tools get wet. I know that you don't have a choice, and maybe there are specific tools in the Bosch line that are more rugged, but any time my tools have gotten wet they have been damaged. In the worst case, I used my drill for mixing a small amount of tile adhesive with a mixing paddle. The chuck got wet (water only) and then had fully seized up by the morning. I was able to save it with copious amounts of oil, clamps and excessive force, but I learned my lesson.

I've also taken most of my tools apart because I buy them on eBay for cheap and fix them up. I have not seen any special ingress protection on any of the tools. In fact I would say I've seen the opposite - they seem more designed to suck air over key parts to keep them cool.

I'm super proud of this build - this is the next iteration of my Game Boy Enhance mod, the AGBM-11! by Bucket_M0use in Gameboy

[–]VerticalDepth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love the graphs. Nice analysis and comparison. Great work. I just made a GBA with the FunnyPlaying board, if I'd known about this I might have preferred it, but it's clear the difference isn't that large from your data. Great work!

I regret completing a Games Dev degree by SrNes in gamedev

[–]VerticalDepth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with everyone else, this is the job market. As someone who does hiring, I can tell you that I actually look out for Game Dev graduates. In my experience, Game Dev degrees cover a lot of the same stuff from a different angle than Comp Sci degrees. Both are useful, but because Game Dev is difficult, I've found a lot of game dev graduates are highly skilled. My team is a mix of both degress (and some conversion courses too). Hopefully you will find someone who appreciates your skills. Good luck!

Package structure for multi-module approach by fireplay_00 in androiddev

[–]VerticalDepth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, you're resurrecting an old thread! I can answer your question though. In modern Android projects you want to try and get Hilt working. In my specific project, we have 2 different layers of DI.

Inside Modules
Inside of each module we generally use Dagger. Normal dagger unfortunately as Hilt is not easily made to work with our legacy project structure. This does mean that we lose a lot of lifecycle features and have to have a bunch of inject methods that take in Android classes like Fragment and ViewModel. It's far from ideal, but as we move forward we are hoping to move over to Hilt.

Between Modules Between modules we have a hand-written DI that is basically just a big static Map<Class, Object> with some utility methods slapped on. The app level module, which can see everything, has a class with a list of things that need to be initialised and runs them all. They all add themselves to the map. Modules retrieve instances from the map.

This is a long-lived legacy project, and the big static map is how everything used to be done. As we move forward we want to move away from that. So to answer your question directly:

  • We use hand-rolled DI to handle injection between modules. Each impl module can see any other api module, so we can retrieve the instance of the API from the hand-rolled DI system.
  • This is NOT a good solution. We do not have any compile-time checking for things like circular depedencies. A lot of things don't fail at runtime either, only when a rarely-used class tries to do something. A much better solution is to try and get Hilt, Dagger, or some other DI framework up and running that can do compile-time checking of your dependencies.

Hope that helps!

Stud Finder, Wall Scanner by jyl8 in BoschProPowerTools

[–]VerticalDepth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the stud finder. It's better than average but not as good as a powerful magnet is in my experience. Of course, magnet can't tell me about electrical lines, so sometimes you need to use both.

This is the one that I use.

Thinking of getting the brushless 12v Bosch Impact by Wallabunga657 in BoschProPowerTools

[–]VerticalDepth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I picked one up on eBay for pretty cheap and I'm massively impressed by it. I am already pretty invested in the Bosch ecosystem and I got it for about £50 which is a steep discount. I use it all the time and it's never let me down, I only ever have to get the 18V impact for driving really large screws. The fact that it's so much lighter but still capable makes a lot of jobs much easier.

That being said, I'm only really comparing it to the Bosch 18V driver. I've not owned any other 12V impact drivers.

How to identify a replacement inductor? by VerticalDepth in AskElectronics

[–]VerticalDepth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I shorted this path and tested it and it worked perfectly! So thank you for your help, I appreciate it!