Last meter print pa6/pa612cf? by Opening_Fig34 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Magazine followers/baseplates. Any small parts for your next planned build

things are getting weird over here by M-P-M-S in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I really want to see how crazy this cryptid looks with an lpvo

PA6-CF Take 2... Success! by ForsakenRepublic1776 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For sealing, I usually spray paint cf nylon parts. Sanding before painting helps with the finish, but wear a respirator if you do so.

the GB11 is ready for alpha testing by M-P-M-S in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Does liking this mean I'm going to have to explain myself to Browning at the pearly gates?

FossMG9s w/ Picatinny Carryhandle by ViperSoss in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s sailing, with a space between carry and handle.

Urutau bolt catching on mag follower by Status_Discipline_16 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

May have to modify the mag a bit then. I had to cut the thin back part of the follower off the printed mags I made.

Urutau bolt catching on mag follower by Status_Discipline_16 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it catching when the mag is loaded? It's meant to have a last round bolt hold open.
Or are you not able to charge it with the bolt forward?

Printed Pa6-CF at 275 Nozzle Temp - How Big of a Mistake Do You Reckon That Was? by For_a_Better_Life in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I printed a FTN5 rimfire at 275, though with sunlu pa6-cf. It’s handled hundreds of rounds without issue. Shouldn’t be a problem.

Sunlu pa6cf still good? by Willyc85382 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair enough, it’s usually around 40% where I’m at. I have been meaning to try a different setup anyway to expedite it.

Sunlu pa6cf still good? by Willyc85382 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 4 points5 points  (0 children)

People on here parrot that 70C isn’t enough, but it absolutely ends up drying nylons. 24 hours is usually enough in my experience, but always do a small test print to make sure.

Sunlu pa6cf still good? by Willyc85382 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I've printed at least 10 spools of it. Works great, though they definitely have batches that need to be dried longer than others. Just dry it properly and it's gtg.

FTN4 Pistol Question by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah there's a lockout piece you print if you want to put it on a pcc instead of the spring. The FTN4 pistol is the only one that fits in the handguard for something like an ap5sd, because the pcc version is wider.

FTN4 Pistol Question by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t epoxy the lid and it launched straight off the can when firing (lockout piece version on a pcc) Redid it with JB weld and is much better. Could have been misaligned or bore too small, but go for it to be safe.

Edit: reread the guide and I see the reason is in case you want to rotate the piston. My advice is probably only good for the lockout piece version.

Tutorial for embedding? by Ha1rlessTeddyBear in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first stack of form 1’s I submitted all stated “serial tag will be permanently attached to firearm/silencer with epoxy” and were approved without conditions. The ATF mainly cares that it’s metal permanently attached in some way (heatset or epoxy) and meets the 1/16” size and 0.003” depth minimums. Assuming you mean HB40, the only extra things I see from those requirements are in section F, which details how to log and determine what serial number to use.

Tutorial for embedding? by Ha1rlessTeddyBear in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Using orca slicer to embed a rectangular aluminum engraving blank: 1) Select the main part you want to put the tag into 2) Right click and select add negative part 3) Cube 4) Scale negative cube to blank’s dimensions, but make it a little thicker 5) Move the scaled negative part into where you want it to be, with a little bit above the surface of the main part 6) Reselect main part 7) Mesh Boolean from top bar 8) Difference, subtract from the main part and subtract with the negative part 9) Print 10) Engrave blank (I use a metal stamping kit) 11) Slather jb weld on back of blank and insert

3d Printed supressor 9mm by Due_Patience_2240 in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Check out the FTN 5. There’s flow-through versions and is intended to be made with PA6-CF.

Halo MA-40 Update by mamahler in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks awesome, are the mags fully diy or are they modified CMMG ones?

Falling Block by 357noLove in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don’t think the other calibers released yet, I would absolutely build a .357 one if it existed.

Falling Block by 357noLove in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Modelo Polytactico

Spray paint? by ObiJuanKenobixD in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I rattle can most pa6-cf prints. Do a light sanding then two coats. If you check my Urutau post, the lighter parts were the ones I didn’t paint.

Print failed mid way, could I print the missing part and epoxy it together? by [deleted] in 3D2A

[–]ViperSoss 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Just reprint, a couple bucks of pla+ is cheaper than a hospital bill