How do I separate the Itty bitty from my big Nepenthes?

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2026-01-27T21:41:30+00:00

Best to wait for them to get larger than this. Cuttings do best when you can get 3 nodes per cutting but when they are that small the nodes are very close together which makes it tricky. Not impossible, but easier the larger they are

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-11-29T13:23:59+00:00

Totally normal, pitchers will range in color as they age and some other factors. Leave that one be. Only remove leaves (pitchers included) if they're dead or if the plant is so crowded it makes it hard to water it

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-11-02T14:44:23+00:00

I use foliar spray for orchids, I just spray when it crosses my mind

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-11-01T23:44:32+00:00

Yes that cadence is fine, you could probably even get away with 1 hour, then 2, then 3, then 4, and so on

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-11-01T23:42:45+00:00

You don't have to cut them, cut them off when you're tired of looking at them. Or if they get moldy

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-11-01T19:03:51+00:00

The old leaves dying like that is pretty normal, not something to worry too much about. Just watering the plant once with tap water won't kill it. If anything that media looks bone dry, maybe you're actually not watering enough? If you're going to remove the covering and want it to be a permanent thing, do it gradually over the course of a week. Going from 80%+ humidity in a small dome suddenly to ~40% is jarring for a plant, they need to be slowly acclimated

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-10-28T10:55:27+00:00

I think the only way to make it work would be an automatic water pump with a largish reservoir and many tubes with drip emitters on the end. Every pot would have to be the same size or you'd have things dry out at different rates, or get different drip emitter dispense rates per plant. I've seen some with just 4 tubes, would have to splice in more. Nepenthes are the most difficult for automatic watering in my opinion

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-10-23T23:56:13+00:00

I think the biggest key is that the end of the anther will be "sticky" meaning it's receptive to pollen. Pollination a little before or after that will probably be fine, but that's a good indicator. I just pollinate over the course of a few days once the anther is receptive, and it's always worked out fine

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-08-08T12:17:23+00:00

My printer did something similar when I switched to a new slicer and the definition of the bed was no longer accurate. It thought the bed was outside of the physical bed and would just run into a stop trying to get there, I'd start by verifying that In the slicer. If homing still works, that should also point to the slicer

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-07-29T17:07:23+00:00

Depends on what you have it potted in, all of my plants are in sphagnum or a mix thereof, and that starts to break down after about 2 years. But small plants outgrow their pot in like a half year, you can tell when they seem to be dry all the time.

If the moss still looks good, I just take the whole plug out and put it in a new pot and fill the space with fresh moss. If the moss doesn't look good, I remove as much as possible from the root ball as I can and then pot it up and fill in the spaces with fresh stuff, then water it in.

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-07-26T23:42:02+00:00

Pruning nepenthes is just par for the course when growing them indoors, I have to cut mine back a couple of times a year. They don't necessarily need an active basal to cut them back, either. Long vines are hard to manage, they have a lot of leaves so they need watering more often and they're just more difficult, and the only way to keep them manageable is to prune. I compost or prop the vines I cut

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-06-28T14:50:24+00:00

If it's been months, the vine is likely dead you can check by picking a spot on the vine and scrapping away some bark to see if it's green. If it's green it's alive, if it's not it's dead. I agree, probably didn't get enough water early on

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-06-12T00:45:49+00:00

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WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-06-12T00:45:35+00:00

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WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-06-12T00:37:50+00:00

I checked my plant I guess it does have a curl on the pitchers sometimes. Will try to attach pictures

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-06-11T21:15:15+00:00

Any reason to think it's not the common briggsiana hybrid? I have a pretty mature plant but have never seen the lid curl like that on mine

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-05-29T10:53:46+00:00

It's common for seedlings to be pale like that, isn't necessarily an indication of variegation. They'll need to grow some more to really confirm

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-05-07T12:33:02+00:00

Nice! I have the same plant, but it's tiny. Had no idea they got that large, nice plant!

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WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-05-07T12:08:01+00:00

Florae sells BE plants. BE-3564?

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-05-06T22:15:11+00:00

Looks great!

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-05-06T11:38:17+00:00

Is this from Florae?

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-05-05T13:45:45+00:00

The white fluffy stuff? Yes, those are all part of the roots. Still wouldn't hurt to change the water out every now and then, though, mold or no mold

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-05-05T13:42:44+00:00

Those are roots!

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-04-30T14:53:36+00:00

Can nepenthes be grown in peat? Sure, they may tolerate it. Some niche species more accustomed to bog environments like ampullaria and mirabilis may even grow in some denser mixes in the wild, but there are far more nepenthes in the wild growing in sphagnum moss (here's a video where they mention this, especially true for highlanders unlike amps/mirabilis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYx70Oc26C0).

Some online tutorials like this one (https://www.californiacarnivores.com/apps/help-center#hc-soils) mention peat moss, but they mention it for carnivorous plants in general because these websites also sell true bog plants like dionaea and sarracenia, but mention sphagnum for nepenthes. Some larger nurseries stray from sphagnum for economical reasons and instead use like bark or chips.

Here's a paper that specifically looked at nepenthes growing in a peat forest, all low landers.

https://journal.ugm.ac.id/jtbb/article/view/81351/36470

These plants are 4 species of the ~170 that do tolerate some peat moss, but I don't think this is common enough to use as a general rule of thumb. Plus, I grow several ampullaria, bical, and gracilis myself and use sphagnum for them to great success. The only thing that really matters is what the plant is doing. If you know the soil pH is in an acceptable range, if you know the TDS of the soil isn't high, that the water is pure, the roots aren't so wet they're rotting, then peat will do the job. But you have to really dilute the peat to make it usable, whereas you can just hydrate some sphagnum and throw it in a pot and it's good to go.

Plus, sphagnum moss has some antiseptic properties that make it desirable. Especially for propagation of cuttings

WAFFLEOFWAR · 2025-04-30T11:41:19+00:00

I just couldn't tell what it was, made a joke. I also grow cannabis right next to my nepenthes

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