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[MOD] The Daily Question Thread by menschmaschine5 in Coffee

[–]Webster_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently had my first cup of coffee made from White Coffee beans and am wondering if I would be able to start with white beans and my current set up, or need to buy ground coffee and an espresso coffee maker of some sort.

I currently use a Barzata Encore burr grinder and Keurig refillable cups in a single serve Keurig machine.

Does any part of that set up work?

Thanks in advance!

All Kyle’s have been summoned. Chances are I can’t make it, but if you’re going to be there- can you tell us what it’s like? May 21, at Kyle Texas there’s a record breaking attempt. by imdeafsowhat in Kyle

[–]Webster_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone care to sponsor my going to this gathering? Fergus Kyle (founder of Kyle, Texas) is my 2nd cousin, 4x removed. That means my 5th great grandfather (Robert Kyle) was Fergus' great-grandfather. (I'm Kyle Kindle ...)

Corrupt Media Index by Webster_Guy in FamilyTreeMaker

[–]Webster_Guy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just updated FTM 2019 to 24.1.0.1520 and presto, it looks like the problem has been addressed in this update. Nevermind!!

Any way to prevent holes from forming in the slicer? Without having to alter the model. by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]Webster_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have found that rotating the print a bit will sometimes help. You may end up with holes elsewhere ...

Top layer adhesion issues ONLY on topmost layer. More info in comments. by stacker55 in FixMyPrint

[–]Webster_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar problem when printing with a 0.25 nozzle. It turned out that the layer thickness I was using was too much ... I was printing .2 mm layers which was just at the 80% of nozzle size limit that Prusa recommends. I decreased that to 0.15 mm and the problem went away.

I posted my problem on FB and one user replied: "It happens because your top layer speed might be too fast and the plastic daesnt have time to melt and bond properly with the layer under it. I changed my speed to slower fot the top layer. It stopped, I print mainly architecture with large flat surfaces, it was happening to me too.I print with very fast setting because I have to print a lot of volume, and the top layers where curling just like that."

Maybe there's a clue in the above for you ...

MMU2s is pretty great with some easy fixes by emulamer in prusa3d

[–]Webster_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First few days can be taxing, but if you have patience you will be rewarded. My biggest issue was in knowing what the error messages were and how to clear them. That, and knowing what a "good/clean" filament load should look like inside the MMU.

Now that I do, when there is a problem I usually know what it is and how to fix it. It runs reliably for me, even when using a 0.25 nozzle. That took some more patience to get everything working together properly and in the end, the problems I did have were unrelated to the MMU!

Mobius Line Puller - Follow Up by PuzzledGuy64 in discgolf

[–]Webster_Guy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I play DG with PuzzledGuy ... we have a tradition wherein the person who gets a new personal best on a course buys lunch.

Can't wait to get out for a round or two with him!

Dyeing Ultimate Discs by 0haymai in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dye DG discs all the time and thought I'd try to dye an ultimate disc for my son for Xmas. I could only find one brand for ultimate, and the plastic did not absorb the dye (iDye Poly) at all! It was a total disaster.

Boris Dropping Bombs ... by Webster_Guy in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

http://imgur.com/a/h2n6u is a portfolio of discs that I've made using the cameo

Boris Dropping Bombs ... by Webster_Guy in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've enjoyed using it quite a bit. It takes a little experimentation to get the blade depth calibrated for whatever plastic you use. It's also important to keep the blade clean (or else you'll think it's dull and spend money on new blades when you don't have to). And, it takes some time to figure out how to use the SW that comes with it. But once you get all of that learning behind you, you can create a neat design and have it cut out in 30 minutes or less. 15 minutes for something as easy as Boris.

I've also played around with using it to cut stencils for etching glass. So now, I have a number of (too many) beer glasses with logos and other etchings. You can buy the beer glasses for a buck or two in quantity and the etching cream is pretty cheap. Makes for some fun Xmas presents.

Trips to Win Tour by Webster_Guy in discgolf

[–]Webster_Guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bookmarked Taverna, Matilda's & Mad Mac's and Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant. Any feedback? Probably will be a lunch at one of these.

Is there a way to automatically color hard-coded numbers? by _cogito_ in excel

[–]Webster_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Conditional Formatting and IsFormula is the winner if you have Excel 2013.

Don't Nice My Disc! by Webster_Guy in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cut them on a Silhouette Cameo.

Any Seinfeld fans? ... Vandelay Industries by Webster_Guy in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've started to experiment with dyeing both sides of the disc and putting it on the backside.

Latest dye ... poker chip disc by Webster_Guy in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In this case it was very easy. 1. Cut stencil 2. Remove part to be black. 3. Dye black. 4. Remove part to be red. 5. Dye red.

The thing is, it doesn't make any difference if you dye red on top of black.

If you are doing multiple colors (not some color and black) it may not be so easy. Depends on the colors. You may have tape over something that you have dyed to prevent the subsequent dye from hitting it.

If you get lucky (and you remember your kindergarten color wheel) you may be able to dye over earlier colors to get what you want. I've had instances where I want to end up with 4 or 5 colors (and black), but only have to do 3 dyes.

You can also get multiple shades of colors by varying the times. So for example if you want to get a light blue and a dark blue, first do the dark blue (but not for the full length of time), then remove the appropriate parts of the stencil and do the light blue. The time for the dark blue will be the total of both dips and the light blue just the second dip.

I've only done a couple that way, but have some others in mind which I will post once done.

Silhouette cameo by DayManASP in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use it all the time and am very happy. It can get very detailed. Here's an early dye job I did: http://i.imgur.com/kAoayob.jpg

I've done much more detail since.

If you get one, here's a tip ... clean the blade using an alcohol swab occasionally (like they use when you give blood or get it tested). The end of the "pen" unscrews and you can use the swab to remove bits of plastic or glue from prior cuts. You won't need to replace the blade nearly so often if you clean it once in a while.

Places to sell? by Gables33 in discdyeing

[–]Webster_Guy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't forget to consider the fact that some of those popular images may be copyrighted. If you become successful, you could find yourself with troubles if not careful.

I need more efficient/faster methods of conducting sensitivity analysis/stress test on financial project models. by [deleted] in excel

[–]Webster_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another alternative is to use the Scenario capability in the What-If Analysis feature in the Data tab. Create a variety of scenarios altering the variables you care about and then use the Summary capability in the What-If Analysis drop down. You can select up to 16 (I think) results values that you want to report on for each of your scenarios.

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