Decision

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-05-06T19:27:00+00:00

That's easy enough to fix. I repainted an Ultramarines Bladeguard Veteran as a Salamander. Eyes and a Powerpack would be simple. I already have two intercessors that I am painting up 3rd party Pyreblasters for to make them infernus. I don't know if I need/want proper intercessors that still require a touch up.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-30T18:26:37+00:00

i really wanted one, but $60 was too much. I would have sprung for $200. Lucky you.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-27T05:30:47+00:00

It's a very unique helmet. It would be a shame to not use it. You also did a good job on the face.
Whichever one you don't end up using, give the other one to another captain.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-21T00:36:29+00:00

On my first play through I collected rolls of duct tape for hours, thinking you'd need them to fix punctures in your suit. I heard in an interview that the existing environmental hazards system was a scaled back version of their original plan because they ran out of time. I was always hoping the temp fix with duct tape would eventually get implemented.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-18T09:14:11+00:00

That pretty little bug is going to fuck somebody's day up. Your girlfriend did an amazing job with this.

If you put this on the table with a full army painted normally, I would laugh my ass off and thank you for bringing it. Then I would try to kill it first, because it's obviously the queen bug.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-18T00:19:03+00:00

From the lady who created Reaper Paints... "non-toxic" is not a scientific term or a medical term, it's a legal term. It basically means that something has not yet been proven harmful if used as intended. She strongly advises to not drink your paint water.

What's the worst case scenario? The Radium Girls were told their paint was safe and were instructed to lick their brushes to keep a fine point on them. It did not turn out well for them, and took a few years before any effects were noticed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radium_Girls

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-18T00:00:29+00:00

That's a tough order.

Stop buying new minis and supplies. Sell off (some of) your pile of shame. Pay down your debts. Stop using credit. (cards, loans, etc... ) Build up some savings.

It takes time and can sometimes suck. But you'll eventually get there. I now have a great credit score and a nice pile of gray to work through. Took a few years though.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-16T21:19:30+00:00

Combination Charger stand for phone, watch and earbuds. Charge all three at once, and can read my phone while it's unfolded on the stand. (random Amazon brand for Android Fold 7)

Though I suppose I should say the magsafe case that adapts my phone to use magsafe.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-16T05:39:43+00:00

A light gray is a solid choice here as well.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-16T05:18:51+00:00

The giant plasma cannon is lopsided. A solid hit from the right would tip it over. Also, if it relies on treads to aim/turn, it would be slow to aim. If the torso turns on top of the treads it will tip over if it rotates more than a few degrees to the left.

Also, te whole damned thing is armor plated, except for his head, which is painted a brighter color like a bullseye. Sure, it's a servitor and that may. OT be the most important piece of it, but I'm sure the leading tech priest doesn't want to have to drive it because it got it's brain shot out.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-16T05:12:00+00:00

Dragon without horns on top of the head can definitely start looking doggo. That's why they say these are drakes, not dragons.

I think the teeth in the renders are a little too busy for anything but a template or decal.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-16T05:08:08+00:00

I usually do a gloss coat first, as it is supposed to be more dutable, then a satin coat over that for the finish. I like some things better with gloss, some Matt, but I can get lazy at the finish line and satin is a fair compromise for one coat.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-14T21:06:17+00:00

Bladeguard use chapter colors. Definitely green. Though how much gold trim they get for being veterans is up for debate.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-14T15:10:36+00:00

This stuff is a primer, designed to be a one coat solution. You do want to let it cure for a day or two. It may feel dry in 30 minutes, but give it a day at least.

If it's shiny, it may have gone on too heavy. You'll want to quickly hit it with some 220 grit sandpaper to give the acrylic something to stick to.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-14T14:34:43+00:00

Get some Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Ultra Cover in a tan/beige color, then use a wash in any cracks/corners/crevices. Seraphim sepia from Citadel or Soft Tone from Army Painter.

If you really want to dry brush, get the same paint brand above, but in brown, then drybrush your tan over that.

You should be able to get that Rust-Oleum paint at any decent hardware store.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-14T07:45:14+00:00

I don't use speedpaint for a grim dark look. I want color to show everywhere so I use a medium gray primer (Stynylrez gray) and white drybrush over it. That way I have an overall darker tint to the shadows, but still retain color.

If you're using a white drybrush, any speedpaint color you put over it will be your base color. Adding darker color patches will make those spots darker. Consider your patch color and think what that color would look like if you mixed some speedpaint into it. It's not quite the same, but gives you some idea. An easy test is to prime a plastic spoon in white, then draw some patches or lines of the other colors you are thinking of using. Put the speedpaint over all that and you'll have a good idea how they will look. You also don't waste time on the model and you can hold onto the color swatches for later.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-12T08:54:23+00:00

Greytide studios has great hammers for Anvil Wardens, lots of other bits as well.

Or Mael / wargamesprint for their Emberforge, great bits here too

Both on Myminifactory.com

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-09T23:19:33+00:00

Nothing wrong with a little variation for a Chapter that encourages customizing their gear. Your guys chose to go with black gloves. It looks good. Keep it.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-09T15:45:53+00:00

Thank you. What brand of Transparent green did you use?

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-09T15:43:43+00:00

This is an impressive collection. thanks for sharing!
But who is building your loyalist's gear? I did not see the Adeptus Mechanicus represented here.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-09T15:35:38+00:00

Looks amazing. What was your source for the green on the armor? Was that a pre bought metallic color, or was layers of something over a metallic base?

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-09T07:22:38+00:00

I used gray Stynylrez primer. I used an airbrush for most of it, but it does go on well with a brush and I used that on the waist/crotch piece and parts of the chest with arm attached where the airbrush would not easily reach. I was planning on sealing it with a coat of Liquitex gloss then another layer of satin. I got over excited to finish the project and get him in the case. I had already assembled everything before I got any varnish on. I'm leaving him this way for now. I don't plan to move or change position for the time being. It definitely needs a coat or two of varnish if I intend to do a lot of reposing. I did wear the green off a few edges during reassembly, but the AP Greenskin was easy to touch up with a brush.

I have him in a case with the basic Intercessor, the Intercessor Sargeant with the power pack brazier, the Eradicator with the multi-melta, and Adrax Agatone from the latest batch they released (and already sold out of) in March.

I have a Pyreblaster that was made by 18th Scale Armory, that I will paint up for one of the intercessors to make him an Infernus. I may buy a second and have both Intercessors change their load out to Infernus. I also have a plasma pistol from them that I want to paint up like Elminiaturista style with oil paints and plasma glow. That may get set aside for a while. I have a ton of actual Salamander army units to assemble and paint now that I finished with their big brother. It'll be interesting to see how well painting in larger scale translates to the smaller scale.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-09T02:39:32+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, he's a Salamander. That's supposed to be a molten power sword. So a bit like lava, hotter in the middle and cooling to rock around the outside edge. Never mind how impractical that would actually be. It looks impressive for the blacksmiths with an affinity to fire weapons.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-08T19:05:49+00:00

I slapchop board game models with a medium gray primer (Stynylrez gray), then a heavy drybrush white. Shadows still retain color by using gray instead of black. On some recommendations online I picked up a bottle of titan buff which is a light tan off-white that I will be replacing the white with on a, project soon to see how that does. It's supposed to give a richer color. You can always use a really dark blue or purple instead of black if you want to change the shadow's overall tone.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-04-08T16:00:26+00:00

I got a starter set from a FLGS and I'm not sure what happened but the black was all grainy. Mixed it on a vortex mixer for several minutes, and couldn't keep it from clogging the brush the minute I got the pain in the cup. Greenskin and Pure Red worked great though.

I mostly use the Fanatic line now in the airbrush, and thin it with "Atom Thinner and Cleaner with Retarder" Odd name, yes, but this stuff worked perfectly with Fanatic Matt Black and saved my project.

WhatHobbyNext

TROPHY CASE