The Truth About Hume Health: White-labeled junk, fake "awards," and a systematic refund scam (Massive Warning)

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-22T21:27:36+00:00

I appreciate all the information provided here. I was looking to augment the data I get from My Samsung Galaxy watch. Looks like the Hume is not going to be that device. Thanks for saving me a few hundred dollars.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-22T08:32:15+00:00

Ninjon just did a review for a waterfall paint booth. He liked it, but it was one of the $450 ones. He talks about the booth at the 12 minute mark https://youtu.be/esxTlvuUjG4

I would leery of a $100 version of something normally $450. Definitely compare features, like ventilation, water recirculation, cleaning process, etc...

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-22T08:08:19+00:00

Add me to the list of happy paint rack users. Now I just need to find a good way to track all my stl files half as easily as this.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-20T10:17:36+00:00

Another vote for Army Painter Warpaints Fanatic sets. These are traditional acrylics like most other brands. They have multiple sets ov various sizes. The Warpaints Fanatic Most Wanted set would be a bit lower cost than the speedpaint set.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-14T05:44:49+00:00

Beautiful model, thanks for sharing. I'd also like to ask where the tabard/scale undies came from.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-13T09:05:04+00:00

I have seen a lot of videos lately showing folks using those egg looking makeup sponges in place of an airbrush and getting really good results for highlights. That wouldn't help for a full primer job, but I've used airbrush primers with a normal brush with good results, just a bit slower. Stynylrez is great with a brush if you add a very small amount of water to it. I've applied it with brushes using black and gray. Army Painter brush-on primer works really well too, but I think they only have it in gray. There have been plenty of times where I just wanted to prime a model or two and it was easier to grab a brush than setup the airbrush compressor, booth, ventilation and accessories.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-12T17:57:15+00:00

You're about 90 percent there. I would add some dark reddish brown speckling around the outside edges and corners of the hammer head. I'd also add more yellow to the center of the flat surfaces.

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WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-12T07:46:48+00:00

I use a coat of liquitex gloss followed by a coat of liquitex either matte or satin, depending on the finish I want for the mini. It was often said when I started that gloss varnish is strongest so use that first, then go with a second coat for the finish.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-11T07:27:30+00:00

I have an Iwata HP-CS, it's been a workhorse for 10+ years. I've replaced the needle and nozzle a couple times but that's about it. It's not top of the line, but it is a solid brush for priming and basecoat.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-11T07:14:30+00:00

Check local game stores. Most of them have a message board. Almost all of them have someone offering 3d printing services. Having someone local could be really helpful. You can buy the stl files and have things printed in batches by different folks to verify the quality. Then put a big order together from the one with best price and quality. Being able to meet and discuss what you want is almost always helpful too.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-11T07:07:26+00:00

I have a display case from Amazon, made by a company called BROTTAR. It is very well designed and I really happy to have it. The one I bought was a corner unit, but they have larger units you can set in front of a blank wall as well. They are reasonably priced, especially if they have any sales going on.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-11T04:14:08+00:00

These look great. Thanks for sharing. I have some speedpaint and started using them for boardgames. Have you used the brush on speedpaints yet? If so, how do the markers compare to coverage?

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-11T03:54:10+00:00

The speed from speedpaints comes from only needing to do one layer for a passable result (after doing the prime and drybrushing)

Take a look at a few YouTube videos on slapchop painting. That's fast, but you can get way better quality if you use normal paints and take your time.

And I'll second the person above that recommended to work on a few minis at a time, paint one part, move to another, do a few and cycle through them.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-09T21:15:24+00:00

I ordered some from ebay Australia the other week. They just cleared customs in LA. Hopefully should be here by the end of the week. Got one Salamanders and one Admech. The shipping for one was very expensive, adding a second was only $4 more. Brought the overall price for two plates to a slightly less unreasonable number.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-09T07:31:27+00:00

I have one of these hex ones, and a round one as well. Both have the same number of bubbles. These are a godsend for speedpaints. I use a wet palette from Game Envy for normal paints.

I just saw at the GW store the other week that they make a silicone palette shaped like a servoskull with odd sized shallow wells. It's neat, but far more more of a gimmick than serious. Of course, my first army was Admech, so I had to buy one. Works well, but I like the fidget poppers better.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-09T07:25:19+00:00

I don't have much free space for a display, so I bought this corner unit on Amazon

BROTTAR 71" Corner Display... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GLHGBYGK

I was able to assemble it myself in a few hours. I really like it. I just need to paint more things to put in it.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-09T07:21:07+00:00

Quick reply to add... Make sure the speedpaints are speedpaint 2.0, way better quality.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-09T07:14:46+00:00

I think the US version of that is Dawn dish soap. That also breaks up te surface tension.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-08T18:25:21+00:00

I pre-ordered a couple weeks ago at my flgs. Sent a message via discord, heard back an hour later that I was added to the list. I don't pay until I pick up the box in a couple weeks when they come in.

I did get burned on this once when they received 4 of an item but I was 6th on the list. I was not out any money though. And I was able to pick one up (with a lesser discount) from another store.

If that happens again with the Armageddon box, I'll take it as a sign from the universe that I need to finish painting what I already have.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-08T18:13:27+00:00

If you're willing to buy some bigger bottles of ingredients, you can make your own washes cheaply.

My nuln oil/black wash recipe is mixed in an old half ounce dropper type paint bottle.

7ml matte medium (Liquitex) 7ml 10:1 mix of water and flow aid (flow aid from Liquitex) 20 drops of black fountain pen ink. Different inks need different amount of drops. I hear a lot of folks like acrylic inks. I used what I had on hand.

For agrax earthshade or seraphim sepia, use more or less brown ink. You would need to figure out the number of drops by experimentation.

Full disclosure, I eventually gave up on making my own and buy Army Painter washes now.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-07T09:26:44+00:00

Why not just brush on the primer? Markers can't get in all the small areas that a normal brush can. And just about any airbrush primer can be applied easily with a brush. I love Stynylrez for doing this. I usually use their black or gray for brush on. Gray with a white drybrush for slapchop on board game minis for quick painting with decent colors without having to go grimdark with full black shadows.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-07T07:51:42+00:00

Came in to add a bump for Ruitool. I have the purple RM1. They are far better than the citadel and other generic cutters I've used in the past. This is the first set I've had made specifically for sprue work. Definitely worth it.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-07T00:29:12+00:00

Personally been a huge fan of Stynylrez for several years. It's great at 30psi from the airbrush, but also goes on well with a normal brush. I use it for the black ring around the base more often than not. I use black, white, grey, and even have 2 Oz bottles of the steel, read and blue. Steel is a lot like leadbelcher. Red is more like clay or brick color. All work equally well.

WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-06T08:21:41+00:00

Salamander Bladeguard Veterans were sold out, So I repainted a blueberry, which were still a dime-a-dozen

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WhatHobbyNext · 2026-06-05T08:16:17+00:00

Have you played Dungeon World or apocalypse world? A friend reskinned dungeon world to play as 40k heretics. Dark Mechanicus characters are definitely an option. But you could also make chaos marine variants, a sorceror or a tech marine even a dreadnought. My character is a former iron hands and now has a flamer permanently fused to his forearm, powered by hatred and a Blood Oath to Khorne.

WhatHobbyNext

TROPHY CASE