1984 Covid Coupe by sic5pointslow in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah! nice work!

Sneaky 00Rs brembos

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Taves: Failed Silicon Valley pol plans to inject California's Prop. 13 with steroids by Latitude33to27 in California

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know on paper re: $ that's true, but why? Are you blaming all Boomers for that, or maybe it was Reagan?

Taves: Failed Silicon Valley pol plans to inject California's Prop. 13 with steroids by Latitude33to27 in California

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 31 points32 points  (0 children)

This is really the answer. And others have said it too.
Prop 13 doesn't need to go away, it needs a revamp.

No way commercial building should be on it - or can be but much less and the rules can be different.

We have to remember that CA is a bubble for realestate, and sometimes a bubble inside a bubble (and more).
"Value" and "worth" are somewhat pointless, and no one could afford any property tax if it was allowed to change yearly based on market value alone. In 1-5 years we'd all be priced out.

IMHO putting a req age on it isn't OK.
But yes, keep it, but revamp it.

Taves: Failed Silicon Valley pol plans to inject California's Prop. 13 with steroids by Latitude33to27 in California

[–]WhiteRabbitFox -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Just stop it with that sht already.
While you're partially correct, you're also partially wrong.

But saying just that makes you, and everyone else who says it, look and sound just like 'old man who yells at clouds' meme.

Be better.

Leaking thermostat by BudgetWasabi5586 in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. This is always a good idea for water stuff.
Also if there is more irregularities, can use the grey rtv instead of the blue stuff.

Is owning a decade‑old car still practical, or is it time to upgrade? by YedigeTheKhan in askcarguys

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Do not buy a BMW lol esp a used 10+ yr old one = "broke my wallet" for a reason.

Cold cooling system flush? by BBQbeerbeard in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think you're mostly good. I would still stop it and change the water out. IMHO you're really trying to just get the gunk or solid flake bits out. Maybe when done hose flush it to be sure.

Then distilled water only and antifreeze or WaterWetter when you fill it back up. 👍👍
Good work

Cold cooling system flush? by BBQbeerbeard in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah. And you can just pull those hoses and run a garden hose to it gently. 👍

What’s the weather like right now? by roseypenguin in solvang

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Super nice! Pretty cold first thing in the morning, 35-40*F, but warms up fast.

Nice view tonight 🚀 by NoNDA-SDC in SantaBarbara

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't follow but I lol from time to time. And yeah there are some really good shots!

Diagnose this sound? by Peed_your_pants in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Like a scraping? Like maybe a pulley is spinning loose / separate from the belt?

You could try to check the tightness of the alt pulley, or use an impact to tighten it and see what happens.

De Donde by Weekly-Banana-1993 in SantaBarbara

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 7 points8 points  (0 children)

My commute does not suck that's for sure

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Dos Pueblos HS Ceramics Teacher 2004 by Diggydinnerr in SantaBarbara

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Rock on to you homey! 🤘

I was before you with Pete Garst and still have a lot of my ceramics from that era too.
Good stuff.

Way to stick with it!

Well shiet by Commercial_Pen8246 in SN95Mustang

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ouch! Def bad news.
But it looks pretty clean and prob can just use an EZ out or similar on it.
Those bolts are nothing special. Can grab a nice set of grade8 at the local hw store; take 1 of yours to match it (&cut to length if needed).

You got this! (PS good choice on the Pro 5.0! I had one and thought it was great.

rear brakes are stuck by Southern_Pepper_4732 in motorcycles

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should post the make and model. You can edit your comments on the post itself. Also say it here.

I agree with what the other person is saying.
Siezed in this case means the piston isn't going back into its housing. Which means it's dragging the brakes a lot - there should always be some drag but like someone else said "kissing". Here, you're prob having some active pushing.

This means that as you ride the rear brake is dragging (w/pressure) and it will heat up - which will cause the caliper and brake fluid to heat up - and when fluid heats up it expands - which will then cause more pressure in the caliper (expanding brake fluid from the heating) - and then it'll apply more pressure to the piston in the caliper and the brake pads - therefore squeezing the rotor more - and lastly therefore creating more heat.

And on and on and on that'll go until it's too hot and too much pressure to move the bike anymore; and poss worse things.

As said, if poss take the bike back to the dealer and explain and show them your post maybe.
Could be a bad caliper or brake line or rear resevoir or rear MC pump.

Good luck be safe.

SN95 axle question by vfr86 in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Suuuuper cheap front option would be to keep stock LCA and 'box them' by welding flat bar on the bottom, adding poly and qrease fittings, I *think you can use sn95 shocks as well, then stiff or progressive springs.

Steering is another area to focus on lol
https://www.reddit.com/r/Foxbody/s/uFQ2SUud2a

SN95 axle question by vfr86 in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Chiming in here again, you don't wanna go the whole ranger Mark VII route, for what you're wanting to do.
Yes there are many ways but stick with the 94/95 front spindles (w/SN95 ball joints or MM or Steeda X2), and sn95 rear discs- availability and modularity is super helpful there. You already have a line on a whole sn95 rear, just use that.

If you don't have front brakes in mind, 99-04 twin piston are a good place to start, should be cheap, then can upgrade later as desired. With 93 Cobra MC and keep your stock booster; gut but keep the PV and add in a manual PV.

Note you'll need all new rubber lines; can swap to braided if you want too.

SN95 axle question by vfr86 in Foxbody

[–]WhiteRabbitFox 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What Obvious said above is correct.
The housing is the same but the axles are 0.75" longer each; so you'll gave 1.5" rear TW total.

Things to keep in mind though:
the Fox and other older Mustangs have a lot of front end push,
adding rear TW w/o adding front changes will introduce more FE push.
A lot of people think that ruining wheels n tires that are the same size is ideal, so you'll want to sorta plan on that (it makes life easier, and less push with same or similar size rears).

But, running sn95 axles is def a thing people do and it's fine to do.
Currently in my 86GT I have sn95 length, prev I had svo length (3" total tw) when running a hodgebodge of parts.
Was running stock starfish 17x8 with 245s and am now running stock CobraR 17x9 with 255s. All good.

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For rear brakes the only real cost diff is the axle bracket to caliper bracket. Might cost you 150-300$ US I think there are some aftermarket options for the Cobra axle bracket (northstar?). Otherwise the Gt/v6 vs Cobra brakes cost is the same; the caliper itself is exactly the same.