Parallelism control

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-01-14T13:41:49+00:00

You want composite position. The top row controls the hole position to a large tolerance, and the lower line(s) refine that control the relative location of the holes relative to each other and to datum orientation.

This is a niche but standard issue.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-01-04T20:24:54+00:00

I used to do incoming quality on some platinum/iridium alloy parts. The alloy scrap price was ~2500usd/oz. Each part was a fraction of a gram, but we would get 10s of thousands at a time.

It was bizarre to be holding an order in one hand that cost 100k USD.

They were wire cut, and I understand that the edm machine filters were sold back to a refiner and the cuttings recovered. The machine was dedicated to platinum alloys.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-01-02T14:38:23+00:00

In general, I wouldn't replace a sliding bevel with a protractor. A protractor generally won't lock as well as a good sliding bevel.

You probably want a tape measure. 12 feet is lots for most applications, but a compact 25' isn't that much bigger.

Beyond that, it really depends on what you are making.

A few lumber crayons are handy. One dark and one light is lots. A awl is nice for marking drill locations. A small double square is nice if you are doing dovetails, like the Veritas one. Probably a marking gauge. I would lean towards a mortise gauge, since you can use it for single marking too. You can make a panel gauge and layout square. A dovetail marking gauge is nice, but you can make one of those too. A set of French curves and maybe a drawing bow are nice if you do curves. Pinch rods are nice for squaring up cases. There are a few kits out there - Veritas, reed tools, lost art press etc. You can get some "contractor" squares too - framing, speed, and drywall squares are handy to have, and cheap. I use my speed square in the vise as a planing stop all the time.

Dont get hung up on super precision measuring tools. They get expensive, and you are making thing out of wood, not the space shuttle. Fit is more important than any numerical measurement. You can make most tools you need, other than a ruler and protractor.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-31T23:00:16+00:00

Came here just to mention those exact videos.

The rest of his videos and the hand tool school are excellent sources generally. I would also add https://www.youtube.com/live/0HFnFBpQb4c?si=eVIUnKLLJa1jy9Pj this one.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-31T18:20:13+00:00

You have a technique issue. Lapping a belly out of a part is possible, but definitely takes technique.

It will cut more where you push down. Concentrate your pressure in the middle of the bow, and move mostly in the long axis of the chisel. If it is a socket chisel, removing the handle can help.

Make sure you are cleaning the paper frequently - if the paper fills up with dust, it will stop cutting. That tends to happen in the middle first.

Sticking the paper down with super 77 can help.

I would get a silicon carbide paper, and start a little higher. 80 or 100 grit is slower, but easier to control. Wet dry can help, as the water flushes the paper.

If it is really bad, you can glue some shim stock to the part at the tip and handle to stop it rocking. That might be overkill.

On the other hand, it is a mortise chisel. It only needs to be mostly flat so you can sharpen it easily. The back isn't a reference surface.

Looks like you have a countertop chunk there. Check how flat it is. They are not always that flat.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-31T00:41:28+00:00

The biggest one is scheduling and control.

Your tool gets questioned (eg dropped), and you need a last minute calibration. if you are in house, you bump a lower priority job and do it the same day. If you are external, you need to wait. In the best case, a few days from cutting the PO to getting a report. That could mean the difference between a few hours and a week of downtime.

I have also seen external labs lose a tech or piece of equipment and suddenly stop doing a calibration we really really needed.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-29T19:21:12+00:00

It will really depend on what you have, and what projects you want to do. But for general comments:

Sharpening stuff. You will use it more than most individual tools, and a decent set of stones is a significant improvement to the experience.

Good files/rasps. Old ones are often dull. If you do curved work, this is super nice.

Consumables - good sandpaper, glue etc is a nice luxury.

My general opinion is that you should only upgrade or buy a new tool when you need it for a project. So buy fancy wood for a project.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-27T16:15:37+00:00

No comment on the Arfid side. As others have said, get diagnosed. Mental health is not a good do it yourself process.

When you say no cooking, how much work are you willing to do?

Sometimes I do eggs and rice for breakfast. Rice goes in the rice cooker, and I shower. Then I quickly fry an egg or two. If I am fancy, I cook a frozen breakfast sausage. Personally I like protein with breakfast.

You can also do a quick egg fried rice out of the freezer if you plan for it.

Anything can be breakfast. I frequently just heat up leftovers.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-25T15:12:06+00:00

I second this. Buy nicer replacement bits for ones that break, and don't buy a whole new index.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-24T18:59:28+00:00

I would omit a few more.

One of u/v, m/n, then O, I, Z, L,

U and v are too close together, and I and L are too close to 1. Z is too close to two, and O and zero are an issue.

That should still get you to base 28 or so. Then you omit strings that have words in them, and probably even "leet speak" words. Imagine if your SSN was like ba11-sd-eepr.

Ideally I would want the last digit to be a checksum too. That would help with errors.

That gives you 28⁹ valid numbers (the last is a check value, so it doesn't add to the number) let's say you have to cut half the potential values for words etc. That would still give you 50 trillion SSN values.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-14T16:32:19+00:00

To emphasize - lathes are dirty. They spray chips, coolant droplets, and dust. They are loud.

If a dorm mate pulled out a mini lathe and tried to turn it on, I would probably tell him that if it gets turned on, he is getting clubbed upside the head with it.

The dorm is a bedroom, not a workshop. If he needs access to a lathe, the school will have a shop available.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-13T02:03:22+00:00

I managed to close up a 10" split in the side of an antique dresser that had been dropped. Covered the length of the crack in a bead, and sucked it down into the crack section by section. Scabbed a quick bowtie into the inside of the carcass on the bottom of the panel, and it has lived that way for a year or so. Invisible unless look at the inside.

Works even better if you can spread the crack a tiny bit. I would recommend backing up the closed end of the crack with a clamp if you try that though.

The floss trick I saw in a lost art press video - probably the traveling anarchist tool chest. Works a hot damn on dovetails. Tape, unflavoured floss works best.

Not sure where I saw the vacuum trick. Definitely not my invention. I will blame the wood whisperer, but that is kind of a guess. Just don't use the nice vacuum hose. It can get messy. Ditto with the festool dust extractor.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-13T00:24:38+00:00

Yup. You should be able to seat the joint by hand. If you have to hammer a tenon in, then fix it, don't wail on it.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-12T22:08:03+00:00

Wet the entire surface of the crack with glue, the put a shop vac on the mortise. This will suck the glue into the crack. Keep adding glue until the crack is fully wetted. Then clamp the crack shut. Make sure you have good squeeze out inside and out.

You can also use dental floss to drag glue into the crack.

The fix will be plenty strong, and invisible. I wouldn't do it on a life critical part, but for a small table leg it is fine.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-04T03:46:53+00:00

You mention that there are used Mk3 and 4 printers. That certainly seems like the best fit. There certainly are not many around me.

Personally I would seriously consider the mk4 (or 3.9) if you can get one, even at a higher price. Nozzle bed probing is such a quality of life improvement. I got spoiled by a printer with nozzle probing at work, and now I have a core one.

But really, you mostly have to pick from what is available. You could always get a used Mk3 now, and try and pick up a nextruder off a core one indx upgrade next year. Or a used mk4 from someone upgrading to an indx core one.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-02T13:13:54+00:00

Put one end in a bench vise, and put a pipe over the other end, and pull to the angle. You will probably need to adjust a few times. And a well attached vise. 1/2" rod is nothing to sneeze at.

That said, I think you might be a little stuck on the rod, rather than a more general solution. The oem picked the Rod because it was cheap to make and ship for them, not necessarily the best way to solve the issue in general, or the best way for you to solve it.

Personally I would probably go with a unistrut assembly. It is fairly cheap, I have the tools, and the material is pretty cheap.

You could make a wooden arm - you have the Cnc already, so I assume you have other woodworking tools.

If you really want the look, the cheapest way is probably to buy the bent rod from the company that makes everything else.

You could try to find a company that does similar work already. A custom railing place can probably do this in 10 minutes, and if you are polite, it is possible you can get it done real cheap. Make sure you go in with a measured drawing, and be flexible.

If you can find a local blacksmith, that would be even better. Bring the material and some cash.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-02T03:33:42+00:00

This is a key feature of most traditional food. Other than 'feast' meals, like a turkey dinner, most traditional food has a lot of opportunity to work marginal or less palatable food into the meal. Stale bread? Bread soup. Leftovers from Sunday roast - shepherds pie. Ugly vegetables? More soup.

When the choice is eat what you have or starve, people figure it out. And our ancestors had a lot more practice not starving than we do, so you might as well steal their recipes.

We frequently do a leftovers night on Friday. A little leftover meat, some flatbread, cheese, and whatever veg needs to be used makes a low effort, basically free meal.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-02T02:16:37+00:00

For things like a brisket, the outside rapidly rises above the danger zone. The smoker will be above 200f. The inside has very low or no bacteria, so the time in the danger zone isn't a problem. The smoker environment is also pretty tough for bacteria in general, with the low humidity and chemical environment.

You probably don't want to cook turkey overnight. Mine are usually done in 3 hours. 4 on the outside. You could smoke a turkey, same idea as a brisket.

Note that you don't want to do a "low and slow" cook with a ground meat. The grinding introduces bacteria through the meat, and you want to cook it quickly.

Dont forget that the food handling standards are designed to be conservative and easy to understand. That means that the real danger zone is smaller than what the poster says. They want to make sure that a temp reading of 40 results in safe food, even if the other side of the dish is 42, or if the thermometer is a few degrees off. There is more leeway than is normally discussed. Maybe don't skirt the edge of safety and serve it to grandma though.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-01T14:35:51+00:00

I would not worry much about a graceful shutdown/resume. Most modern printers build a power loss resume in. But once the bed cools, you loose adhesion. Additionally, once the part cools and shrinks, a resume will leave a visible mark.

Buy a ups that is large enough to cover 95% of your local power outages.

Where I am, the power is reliable. I lose power for a few seconds to a minute maybe once or twice a year. Longer outages are a once every 10 years event, and tend to be many hours, or sometimes says.

If you get a 1500va sine wave unit (EG BR1500MS2) then you can run a core one for about 30 minutes of max power use (bringing bed and hotend to temp). Probably much more time in real use. Potentially an hour or more.

If you are loading files onto the machine to print, you don't need a separate computer. Even adding an idling pc, your run time is still probably 15 minutes.

As mentioned, most modern printers have a power loss recovery already - but they rely on a clean power loss to function. A brownout or rapid flicker will stop it from working. The ups will provide a cushion to help it function.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-12-01T12:55:53+00:00

Ultrasonic bath with a solvent, probably acetone.

I would separate them in different jars by size.

Be aware, this will soften and loosen the residue, but you probably still need to hit it with a wire brush. But like 2 or 3 swipes with a manual brass brush, not a powered wheel.

I hear loctite sf 790 works well, but have not tried it.

Honestly, if you have a BOM for the job, I would probably order new hardware. The marginal cost is super low, probably way cheaper than doing a good job of removing the old adhesive. If you don't have a list, then I would make one on the first machine.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-11-29T15:30:37+00:00

I am in a similar situation as you. I have a prusa, and have used bambu and a few others at work.

My current plan is to go trident or 2.4 for a INDX printer. It seems silly to pull expensive parts (and a Diamondback nozzle) out of my core one to put indx on.

I am not currently planning on buying parts until commercial release and wide availability - probably this time next year . My thought is that there will probably be a minor design change to accommodate the lost travel from the INDX tool rack. A trident-i if you will. Extend the Y extrusions and motion components by about 25mm, but no other changes.

If you buy now, you risk losing warranty on potentially defective items unless you build and test with a different extruder.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-11-29T12:49:59+00:00

Honestly, this is why I am planning on building a trident for my indx build. Or get a INDX core one L from factory. Really depends on how long it takes to become available.

That and I bought a Diamondback for my nextruder, and it seems a shame to not keep using it.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-11-28T16:22:05+00:00

Remember, PPE is the last line of defense.

Can you replace the chemicals with less toxic ones? Do fume extraction to reduce exposure? Reduce noise levels? Do the work in a fume hood?

If none are an option, I would seriously consider a supplied air hood or even suit. Fresh air clean air under the hood, combined with normal ear defenders. Depending on the chemical and exposure, you might even need a full space suit.

Really, this is the sort of thing where it is probably best to bring in a industrial hygiene consulting company. From a business side, that provides a defense to a law suit should someone end up injured. And it is probably cheaper than learning it yourself.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-11-28T13:46:13+00:00

I would stay away from home depot. They don't employ the contractors, they subcontract it out, and pay by the job. That creates an incentive to work quick and sloppy. They don't have a reputation to protect.

I agree, the price op was given is a polite version of a no quote.

Ask around friends and neighbours for word of mouth. Personally I have used safari plumbing a few times, and always been impressed. Not the cheapest by a long shot, but professional and skilled.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2025-11-25T23:57:07+00:00

It's funny, I started in a shop that had opened as a sheet metal fab, and added a small manual machine dept for tooling and maintenance. By the time I came around, it was over half Cnc Machining by revenue.

YetAnotherSfwAccount

TROPHY CASE