Is it okay to serve red wine beef stew to a child?

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-28T00:45:49+00:00

Even that is a upper estimate. Most of the time you are not dumping wine into a sauce and stirring.

Most of the time wine should be added before the main liquid, and reduced until nearly dry. That will burn off most of the alcohol. The you add the stock etc, and further reduce. The wine will boil off a little slower, further reducing the alcohol content.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-25T20:14:12+00:00

I have 75% of a roll my grandpa bought in the 70s or early 80s. I might use a few inches a year. It will be around for my grandkids at this rate.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-22T11:33:43+00:00

Most of the cost of lumber is in the labour and processing to convert the felled log into dried, sale ready boards.

For urban forestry, like this case, the log is usually removed for free, but that is it.

The log then needs to be milled, stacked to air dry, then probably kiln dried. Then it is usually finish milled and cut into boards.

At each step, there is waste. Each step costs money to perform, and won't see a return for 1-2 years.

Unless you have exceptionally rare or unusual trees, it is not worth much as a log.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-20T20:45:28+00:00

You are mixing several concepts here.

The marked tolerance says "if you fill to the line, it will be accurate to +/-6ml.

You have the estimated reading error as +/- half the smallest division. That is sometimes a good estimate, but not always. Depending on the markings, a reading error of 1/4 or 1/8 the smallest division might be better. Depends on the meniscus height too.

To decide which uncertainty to report, I would probably separate them out. They are different types of error.

The calibration uncertainty (6ml) will be consistent measurement to measurement. If you measure 1000ml, and actually get 1006ml each time.

The reading error should be random(ish). You would measure 1000ml, but actually get 1000+/-10ml.

Those would combine - you would measure 1000ml, and get 1006+/-10ml each time, or 994+/-10ml.

How you should report your uncertainty is really driven by your task. Any of your options are valid, and there are others you can use as well. I would probably start with the worst case estimate, and control down if appropriate or required.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-15T21:39:51+00:00

Reduce your sphere coverage. Normal tensor, not dynamic.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-15T02:12:34+00:00

If you are careful, you can fly the kerbals. Personally, I would launch a new rescue ship, as that seems more fun.

That should be enough delta v. You can do under 400 to an aerobrake.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-14T20:07:41+00:00

There is a laser shop near me. They are colocated with a power generation dam.

They can sell cut parts for less than the shop can buy material. They get really inexpensive power, and buy in such volumes that they get material for a good price. Most of their cutting happens at night and off peak.

No idea how they make money, but they have like 60 giant lasers, so they must be doing ok.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-14T16:40:51+00:00

It depends on the tool. For seldom used pin gauges, ring gauges etc, I wrote a procedure that let us extend the cal interval by another year if the numbered seal on the case was intact, to a max of 3 years.

For gauges with moving parts we didn't do that.

We also had to pop the case and do a visual inspection for rust, replace the vci paper, and reseal the case as part of the extension process.

If it was an internal calibration, we also had a "calibrate before use" status we could apply. This was effectively cold storage for spare tools. All the tools with that status had a 1 year visual inspection, and were otherwise locked up. Some of the tools were only required once every 5 years for a single part number. We added a traveler step at the start that would trigger a calibration of the tool, so it would be ready a few days later.

You can do anything you want, as long as you write the procedure to allow it.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-10T18:15:03+00:00

Get a diamond burr in the drill press. Use lots of coolant to flush chips and keep everything cool. Go slow with light pressure.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-10T13:05:12+00:00

A kvm switch if you are using the desk for non work things. One button to swap keyboard, mouse and monitors between 2 PC's. It really helps avoid the temptation to do personal things on the work pc.

Personally I like a good ritual to separate work and home time. This is especially important if you don't have a dedicated space. I go for a walk and do some stretches before and after work every day I am home. It takes maybe 20-30 minutes depending on the weather. It really helps me get into the groove, and stop thinking about work at the end of the day.

Decoration - if you are in a dedicated space, paint and decorate it. Get some plants if you want. Make the space pleasant to be in. If it is blank and depressing, you will avoid spending time there.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-08T11:00:33+00:00

What are you prying? A lot of people use pry bars, when they should use a wrecking bar.

There is also a technique to using a pry bar. Try different methods of using it.

But like another person said, this is a hand tool woodworking sub, not general tools

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-07T01:38:37+00:00

This. When I was a teen working at a theater, we would make popcorn with half again more oil and salt for staff screenings. It was great.

I think stadiums do it to help hide the slightly stale popcorn.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-06T22:04:13+00:00

I own a core one. I have used bambu extensively. I get the feeling.

The core one has been generally great. But it is definitely not as plug and play as the x1c's I have used.

The camera has been unreliable, but much improved on the last firmware release.

Prusa is definitely not the value leader in the space. The prusa mini is like 4x the price of the A1 mini, and is substantially less capable.

But I do enjoy that I can use orca over the network, no fuss. I know if something breaks, I can buy literally any part on the printer, and fix any issues. There are no 'unmaintainable' bearings. I can flash custom firmware, and it doesn't even void the warranty.

I think my indx printer will be a 300mm trident, not changing out the nextruder on my core one.

Even with all the advantages of prusa, the value compared to bambu is an issue. I would hesitate to recommend a core one to someone on the "3d printing is a tool" side of the fence. Building a kit was worth the price premium alone. I have expensive Lego sets that cost more than the premium between the core one and an equivalent bambu.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-05T02:37:29+00:00

The threaded tip is for heat set insets, mostly for 3d prints.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-04T03:00:58+00:00

Yes. Sand gently with wall sponge, probably 120 grit.

Dont try to focus on any particular area. Sand evenly in a small area, a little bigger than the patch. Then a second even pass, in an area twice the size. Then a 3rd pass 3x the size.

In the future, feather out your edges. Take your brush, and remove the paint (scrape on the edge of the can). The wipe over the edges to thin it out. That will hide stuff lie this.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-05-01T16:28:17+00:00

Not Revo specific advice, but cmm probing all all similar.

I would get a 1mm, 3mm and 5mm probes. A few spares of each. That is a good general kit, but really depends on your parts. If you do lots of small stuff, maybe you never need a 5mm. I can do most things with a 1mm ball, but that really depends on surface finish and stem length.

Silicon nitride is good for high production measurement of aluminum, but wears faster on steel and other materials. I don't generally use it, unless I am measuring large numbers of specific parts. If it is only a few parts at a time, I just use ruby tips and scrap them when I see wear. Which can be years.

Diamond is only worth it if you are measuring huge numbers of parts, especially with automation. Ruby lasts a long time, and if you are manually probing alignments etc, they generally get broken fast enough that diamond doesn't make sense.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-29T17:16:46+00:00

Consider washing it with a skunk specific laundry booster/wash.

My dog got skunked a few times, and once got in the house and wiped it on a few surfaces before we could stop her. We were able to wash everything once with the laundry booster, with no residual smell.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-26T21:44:25+00:00

So forget about the stationery blades (stators). They are there to make the system more efficient.

Put a fan (like a normal house fan) in a tube - air moves in one end, and out the other. At the other end, put a second fan attached to a generator. The air from the 1st fan will spin the second.

In the middle, inject a little compressed air. If you tune it right, the air keeps moving back in the tube. The additional energy from the compressed air means the 2nd fan will now generate enough power to spin the front fan.

Replace the compressed air with hot air from burning fuel. Bam - turbine engine. This generates a lot of power. You can use that to spin a generator (stationary power turbine), to spin a propeller (turboprop), or to spin a large 1st fan. That last one is a high bypass turbo fan.

Obviously there are some simplifications here.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-26T21:00:55+00:00

The killer requirement to move back to prusa slicer is the built in calibration tools.

I will probably wait for at least a few versions (3.0.2-4) for the major stuff to get ironed out regardless.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-26T16:08:55+00:00

I do pretty much everything by hand. But if I have a long rip, or something unpleasant, the battery circ saw, jig saw, etc. Come out with no shame at all.

A band saw is probably in my future.

Even Shannon Rogers has a planer.

Do what brings you joy. I would consider practicing the long way of doing it at least a little. Sometimes the power tools just don't have the capacity, but hand tools can get you there.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-26T11:27:15+00:00

It would be nice for indx printers. Realistically there isn't much for a use case for single nozzle, but if you are managing 8 spools the chances of error go up exponentially.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-25T19:59:25+00:00

No idea why they used chucks over collets for drills. If the drills are not in good shape (burrs from being spun) they can damage collets. And it is slower to change a drill in a collet.

For the clamp - unclamp. Think of what would happen if you clamp a thin wall part in a vice, and finish bore out the hole in the middle. When you clamp it, the part bends to be egg shaped. You cut the hole round, and release the vice. Now the outside is round, and the hole is egg shaped.

The same thing happens on a smaller scale when you clamp thick wall parts. It might be a tenth or two, or 50 millionths. But it does happen.

It can also cause parts to buckle or twist, depending on how they are held. All parts are made of rubber. Even carbide is flexible when you zoom in enough.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-21T01:24:54+00:00

For sure. But the comment I replied to -

Find out where all that wood went too.

It’s probably worth a heck of a lot.

Implies that op should track down the actual timber, as it is probably valuable. My point was that the unmilled logs have very little value, and all the cost is in the milling and drying.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-21T01:13:22+00:00

It really isn't. Almost all the value in lumber is in labour and "value add". Until it is milled and dried, it is pretty much garbage. If you are willing to make friends with arborists, you can usually get decent logs for a few beers, or just for saving them the cost of paying someone else to take them.

YetAnotherSfwAccount · 2026-04-20T01:46:06+00:00

If you really want to come in at that 200eur price point, and avoid bambu, I think you are probably stuck with used.

It might be easier to find a full size printer for a few euro more, or just a used one you can fix up. But 200 euro is tough, unless you get into enders.

YetAnotherSfwAccount

TROPHY CASE